Strip malls can hide the most remarkable finds. In this case, its a chic, ever-evolving Italian restaurant helmed by wunderkind (he's in his early 30s) chef Julian Barsotti. A protegee of Food Channel regular Paul Bertolli, Barsotti is a man devoted to the art of Italian cooking. In fact, he returns to the Boot each year to research new recipes, so you never know exactly what will be on the menu. One season, he devotes his efforts to Roman cuisine, making out-of-this-world spaghetti carbonara; on another occasion the focus might be on Jewish-Italian cuisine, with exquisite fried artichokes. Whatever he has on offer, you can rest assured that the pastas will be extraordinarily flavorful, the pizzas crisp and topped with all sorts of unexpected treats (fennel sausage or jalapeño peppers), and the salads a riot of colors and textures. Warning: Don't ever come here without a reservation. Even the bar stools get reserved well in advance, so you might find yourself having to grab a meal at the Whole Foods across the parking lot if you don't plan ahead.