Smoke takes a southwestern approach to BBQ, offering both smoked meats and Mexican-inspired dishes like the exquisite cabrito I was lucky enough to have there recently: pit-roasted young goat under a dome of masa with a tangy cream sauce and a circlet of thinly sliced turnips.  Other stars on the menu include items you wouldn't expect to find in a place known for barbecue, such as the roasted Gulf Coast oyster in garlic sauce and the exquisite cornish game hen, which tops a split pea-and-red wine stew. Or have the pulled pork, which is slow-roasted just right—over hickory, of course. You eat it all in a homey room filled with family photos, amid a rowdy but friendly raft of regulars.