There isn't much to see at the North Korean border, but the contrast between lively Dandong and depressed Sinuiju does provide a vivid illustration of the different paths to development taken by China and its Communist ally. There are two ways to see the border -- by boat and by bridge. Most visitors do both. A 10-minute walk south of the railway station to the end of Shi Wei Lu and a few blocks west, along Jiangyan Jie, is the Yalu Jiang Qiao (tel. 0415/312-4767; 7:30am-6pm; ¥20), a unique horizontal rotation bridge bombed by the United States in 1950. Korea dismantled its half shortly after the Korean War armistice, rendering the bridge useless. You can wander out to the still-mangled end of the Chinese section, where someone has installed a pair of bomb casings as a reminder. Boats leave from the pier adjacent the Yalu Jiang Qiao entrance (8am-5pm; ¥50 boats; ¥70 speedboats), allowing you to see the shore of North Korea more up-close.

You might guess what kind of perspective a museum clunkily named the Memorial Hall of the War to Resist U.S. Aggression and Aid Korea (Kangmei Yuanchao Jinianguan; 8am-4pm; free admission) might have. Nevertheless, it offers an interesting Communist revisionist's look at the Korean War with black-and-white photos, surprisingly clear English translations, and patriotic music piped in. The museum requires some effort to reach -- not just because it's located on a hill on the north side of Shangshan Jie, in the northwest part of town, but because the stairs to the memorial are quite a climb. The museum is to the right of the memorial, and behind the museum are some rusty rail cars, tanks, and fighter planes used during the war. Take bus no. 21 from the railway station, get off at the Tiyuguan, and walk northwest.

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