The following recommendations are all within walking distance of each other; ask for directions before you set out. For Tibetan food, Dekevas Restaurant (tel. 0354/225-4159; no credit cards) has some delicious favorites, including momos (dumplings) and wonton soup, with a choice of chicken, pork, or vegetable as a base. Try a delicious shabalay, Tibetan pie filled with mince, onion, and spring onion; spice it up with a hint of chili sauce. Also sample the awesome tsampa -- roasted barley served with cheese, butter, and a glass of milk. For those extracold days, it has a selection of soups. Also available are Chinese dishes, pizzas, and burgers. Adjacent is the no-frills matchbox-size Kunga, where the beef or pork thenthuk (flat noodles) soup is excellent. At Lemon Grass (also known as The Park), you can order from the Thai or Indian menu -- the Indian tandoori chicken is a standout (tel. 0354/225-5270; no credit cards). Part of a three-floor food center, with a delicatessen and Internet cafe one floor below and an American diner at the basement level, Glenary's has been serving guests since 1935. Although staff may boast about the Continental cuisine, the best options are Indian -- try mahi tikka (spicy fish tandoori) or bhuna gosht, a mutton curry cooked with ginger, garlic, and masala in its own juices (tel. 0354/225-7554). A new addition in the basement, the Buzz acts as a pub, dishing out great music and hosting live bands in the evenings from Thursday to Sunday. Joey's Pub (tel. 0354/225-8216; no credit cards) is your quintessential bar, and that just about sums up Darj's nightlife. Spectacular views of Mount Kachenjunga make Keventer's Snack Bar (1 Nehru Rd.; tel. 0354/225-6542 or -4026) something of a Darjeeling institution, even if the food is nothing to write home about. Sit upstairs on the terrace for breakfast served by disaffected waiters. Darjeeling also boasts an Inox multiplex and Rink Mall where you can have a good cuppa at the tea lounge or Café Coffee Day. Finally, for Nepali cuisine (a must if you're in the region), there's no better place than Penangs (just opposite the Rink Mall on the first floor of a shabby building), where you should order the traditional Nepali thali (multicourse platter) and momos (dumplings).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.