The problem with visiting Bei Shan after Baoding Shan is that it's a bit of a letdown. If you visit it first, though, you risk being glutted before properly feasting on the best. That said, Fo Wan (Buddha Cove), the cove at the top of Bei Shan, offers a fine series of religious and commemorative carvings, if somewhat less dazzling than the Song carvings. In 892, Wei Junjing, a military commander and imperial envoy, began carving Buddha images in what, at that time, was his encampment atop Bei Shan. That started a 250-year trend that resulted in the completion of nearly 10,000 statues scattered over the county by the end of the Song dynasty. Highlights of Bei Shan include the story of Amitabha Buddha and his Pure Land in Cave 245, which contains exquisite carved heads that look remarkably alive. Another is the statue of the Bodhisattva Manjusri in the largest cave at Fo Wan (no. 136). He appears high-minded and lofty, but it's the touch of self-satisfaction in his expression that captures his humanity and sets this statue apart.