Things To Do in Deauville

Some of the architecture looks as if it had stepped out of a gothic fairy tale. The style is ostensibly Norman—lots of half-timbered buildings mostly in suitably muted shades. But then you see turrets sprouting here and there, with gables and balconies wedged into every nook and cranny. It’s as if a French version of the Addams Family had a hand in designing some of these glorious confections. The overall effect is delightful, enhanced by the profusion of flowers in the public spaces. With its golf courses, casinos, deluxe hotels, La Touques and Clairefontaine racetracks, regattas, yacht harbor, polo grounds, and tennis courts, Deauville hums with moneyed patronage. Soak up the exclusive vibe with an afternoon spent people-watching, particularly along boutique-lined rue Eugène-Colas, place Morny (named for the resort’s founder), and place du Casino.

Luxury boutiques such as Hermès, Ralph Lauren, and Louis Vuitton cluster around the place du Casino. If you’re looking for more inclusive and slightly more affordable shops, including a lovely Norman-style Printemps department store, take a stroll along rue Eugène-Colas and place Morny.

To see Norman produce in all its glory, head for the Marché de Deauville (open-air market) in place du Marché beside place Morny. In July and August, it’s open daily 7am to 1:30pm. In July, August, Easter, Christmas, and French school holidays, it’s open daily 8am to 1pm. The rest of the year, market days are Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday, as well as Sunday from February to November. In addition to fruits, vegetables, poultry, cider, wine, and cheese, you’ll find cookware, porcelain tableware, and cutlery. An organic market occupies Place de l’église Saint-Augustin every Thursday morning too (8am-1pm).

The Casino de Deauville, rue Edmond Blanc (www.lucienbarriere.com; 📞 02-31-14-31-14), has been one of France’s foremost casinos since it opened in 1912. Over the years, the original Belle Epoque has expanded to include a theater, Le Brummel nightclub, three restaurants, two bars, and a huge collection of slot machines (machines à sous). The casino distinguishes areas for slot machines from more formal zones containing such games as roulette, baccarat, blackjack, and poker. The slots are open daily 10am to 2am (to 3am Fri and 4am Sat) and have no dress code, although shorts are not allowed. The areas containing les jeux de table (table games) are open Monday to Thursday 7pm–2am, 4pm-3am on Fridays, and 4pm-4am on Saturdays and Sundays. Entrance is free, and you must present a passport or ID to gain admission.

 For drinks and a boogie, you could stay on at the Casino, at posh Club 13, 2 rue Edmond Blanc (casinosbarriere.com/fr/deauville/club13-deauville.html), open until 5am. Polo players frequent the perennially hip and popular Brok Café, 14 av. du Général-de-Gaulle (facebook.com/BrokCafeDeauville; tel. 02-31-81-30-81) for cocktails and small plates. Or for a more chilled-out vibe, check out La Plancha, 57 av. de la République (http://laplancha-deauville.com; tel. 02-31-89-98-19), known for live music and delicious tapas