Planning a trip to Denmark

Fast Facts

American Express -- Amex is represented throughout Denmark by Nyman & Schultz, Nørregade 7A (tel. 33-13-11-81; bus: 34 or 35), with a branch in Terminal 3 of the Copenhagen Airport. Fulfilling all the functions of American Express, except for foreign exchange services, the main office is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 4:30pm, and Friday 8:30am to 4pm. The airport office remains open until 8:30pm Monday to Friday. On weekends and overnight on weekdays, a recorded message, in English, will deliver the phone number of a 24-hour Amex service in Stockholm. This is useful for anyone who has lost a card or travelers checks.

Area Code -- The international country code for Denmark is 45. For international calls, dial 00, then the country code (44 for Britain, 1 for the United States or Canada).

Business Hours -- Most banks are open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 4pm (Thurs to 6pm), but outside Copenhagen, banking hours vary. Stores are generally open Monday through Thursday from 9am to 5:30pm, Friday 9am to 7 or 8pm, and Saturday noon to 2pm; most are closed Sunday.

Drinking Laws -- To consume alcohol in Danish bars, restaurants, or cafes, customers must be 18 or older. There are no restrictions on children 17 and under who drink at home or, for example, from a bottle in a public park. Danish police tend to be lenient unless drinkers become raucous or uncontrollable. There is no leniency, however, in the matter of driving while intoxicated. It's illegal to drive with a blood-alcohol level of 0.8 or more, which could be produced by two drinks. If the level is 1.5, motorists pay a serious fine. If it's more than 1.5, drivers can lose their license. If the level is 2.0 or more (usually produced by six or seven drinks), a prison term of at least 14 days might follow. Liquor stores in Denmark are closed on Sunday.

Drug Laws -- Penalties for the possession, use, purchase, sale, or manufacturing of drugs are severe. The quantity of the controlled substance is more important than the type of substance. Danish police are particularly strict with cases involving the sale of drugs to children.

Drugstores -- They're known as apoteker in Danish and are open Monday to Thursday 9am to 5:30pm, Friday 9am to 7pm, and Saturday 9am to 1pm.

Electricity -- Voltage is generally 220 volts AC, 50 to 60 cycles. In many camping sites, 110-volt power plugs are also available. Adapters and transformers may be purchased in Denmark. It's always best to check at your hotel desk before using an electrical outlet.

Embassies -- All embassies are in Copenhagen. The embassy of the United States is at Dag Hammärskjölds Allé 24, DK-2100 Copenhagen (tel. 33-41-71-00). Other embassies are the United Kingdom, Kastelsvej 40, DK-2100 Copenhagen (tel. 35-44-52-00); Canada, Kristen Berniskows Gade 1, DK-1105 Copenhagen K (tel. 33-48-32-00); Australia, Dampfærgevej 26, DK-2100 Copenhagen (tel. 70-26-36-76); and Ireland, Østbanegade 21, DK-2100 Copenhagen (tel. 35-42-32-33).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 112 for the fire department, the police, or an ambulance, or to report a sea or air accident. Emergency calls from public telephone kiosks are free (no coins needed).

Holidays -- Danish public holidays are New Year's Day, Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Labor Day (May 1), Common Prayers Day (fourth Fri after Easter), Ascension Day (mid-May), Whitsunday (late May), Whitmonday, Constitution Day (June 5), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Language -- Danish is the national tongue. English is commonly spoken, especially among young people. You should have few, if any, language barriers. The best phrase book is Danish for Travellers (Berlitz).

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-3836; call collect. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 314/542-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Most post offices are open Monday through Friday from 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm and Saturday from 9am to noon; they're closed Sunday. All mail to North America is sent airmail without extra charge. Mailboxes are painted red and display the embossed crown and trumpet of the Danish Postal Society.

Newspapers & Magazines -- English-language newspapers are sold at all major news kiosks in Copenhagen but are much harder to find in the provinces. London papers are flown in for early-morning delivery, but you may find the International Herald Tribune or USA Today more interesting. Pick up a copy of Copenhagen This Week, printed in English, which contains useful information.

Police -- Dial tel. 112 nationwide.

Safety -- Denmark is one of the safest European countries for travelers. Copenhagen, the major population center, naturally experiences the most crime. Muggings have been reported in the vicinity of the railway station, especially late at night, but crimes of extreme violence are exceedingly rare. Exercise the usual precautions you would when traveling anywhere.

Smoking -- August 15, 2007, was D-day for Danish smokers. A smoking ban took effect, against cigarettes, cigars, and pipes, which can no longer be enjoyed in any public buildings or private businesses. The ordinance covers restaurants, shops, schools, bars, public transport, entertainment establishments, and places of employment. The World Health Organization estimates that 30% of all Danes smoke.

Taxes -- The 25% VAT (value-added tax) on goods and services is known in Denmark as moms (pronounced "mumps"). Special tax-free exports are possible, and many stores will mail goods home to you, circumventing moms. If you want to take your purchases with you, look for shops displaying Danish tax-free shopping notices. Such shops offer tourists tax refunds for personal export. This refund applies to purchases of at least DKK300 ($51/£30) for U.S. visitors. Danish Customs must stamp your tax-free invoice when you leave the country. You can receive your refund at Copenhagen's Kastrup International Airport when you depart. If you go by land or sea, you can receive your refund by mail. Mail requests for refunds to Danish Tax-Free Shopping A/S, H. J. Holstvej 5A, DK-2605 Brøndby, Denmark. You'll be reimbursed by check, cash, or credit- or charge-card credit in the currency you want.

For the refund to apply, the DKK 300 ($51/£30) must be spent in one store, but not necessarily at the same time. Some major department stores allow purchases to be made over several days or even weeks, at the end of which receipts will be tallied. Service and handling fees are deducted from the total, so actual refunds come up to about 19%. Information on this program is available from the Danish Tourist Board.

A 25% moms is included in hotel and restaurant bills, service charges, entrance fees, and repair bills for foreign-registered cars. No refunds are possible on these items.

Time -- Denmark operates on Central European Time -- 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. Daylight saving time is from the end of March to the end of September.

Tipping -- Tips are seldom expected. Porters charge fixed prices, and tipping is not customary for hairdressers or barbers. Service is built into the system, and hotels, restaurants, and even taxis include a 15% service charge in their rates. Because of the service charge, plus the 25% moms, you'll probably have to pay an additional 40% for some services!

Consider tipping only for special services; some Danes would feel insulted if you offered them a tip.

Toilets -- All big plazas, such as Town Hall Square in Copenhagen, have public lavatories. In small towns and villages, head for the marketplace. Hygienic standards are usually adequate. Sometimes men and women patronize the same toilets (signs read TOILETTER or WC). Otherwise, men's rooms are marked HERRER or H, and women's rooms are marked DAMER or D.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Deptartment of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hrs.)

U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518, and U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline tel. 404/332-4559.

Water -- Tap water is safe to drink throughout Denmark.

Calendar of Events

Exact dates below apply for 2009. Should you be using this guide in 2010, check with local tourist boards for exact dates.

May

Carnival in Copenhagen. A great citywide event. There's also a children's carnival. For information, call tel. 35-38-85-04; www.karneval.dk. Mid-May.

Ballet and Opera Festival (Copenhagen). Classical and modern dance and two operatic masterpieces are presented at the Old Stage of the Royal Theater in Copenhagen. For tickets, contact the Royal Theater, Box 2185, DK-1017 Copenhagen (tel. 33-69-69-69-33; www.kglteater.dk). Mid-May to June.

Aalborg Carnival. This is one of the country's great spring events. The streets fill with people in colorful costumes. Thousands take part in the celebration, which honors the victory of spring over winter. For information, call tel. 98-13-72-11; www.karnevaliaalborg.dk. Late May.

June

Viking Festival(Frederikssund, 8 miles southwest of Hillerød). For 2 weeks every summer, "bearded Vikings" present old Nordic sagas in an open-air setting. After each performance, a traditional Viking meal is served. Call tel. 47-31-06-85 or visit www.vikingespil.dk for more information. Late June to early July.

Midsummer's Night (countrywide). This age-old event is celebrated throughout Denmark. It is the longest day of the year. Festivities throughout the nation begin at around 10pm with bonfires and celebrations along the myriad coasts. June 21.

July

Roskilde Festival. Europe's biggest rock festival has been going strong for 30 years, now bringing about 90,000 revelers each year to the central Zealand town. Besides major rock concerts, which often draw big names, scheduled activities include theater and film presentations. For more information, call tel. 46-36-66-13; www.roskilde-festival.dk. Early July.

Copenhagen Jazz Festival. International jazz musicians play in the streets, squares, and theaters. Pick up a copy of Copenhagen This Week to find the venues. For information, call tel. 33-93-20-13; www.jazzfestival.dk. Early July.

July 4th (Rebild). Rebild National Park, near Aalborg, is one of the few places outside the United States to honor American Independence Day. For more information, contact the Aalborg Tourist Bureau, Østerågade 8, DK-9000 Aalborg (tel. 99-31-75-00; www.visitaalborg.com). July 4th.

Funen Festival. This annual musical extravaganza draws big, international headliners. The festival's music is often hard-core rock, but gentler, classical melodies are presented as well. It takes place in the city of Odense, on the island of Funen. For more information, call the Odense tourist bureau (tel. 66-12-75-20; www.visitodense.com). Early July.

August

Fire Festival Regatta (Silkeborg). Denmark's oldest and biggest festival features nightly cruises on the lakes, with thousands of candles illuminating the shores. The fireworks display on the last night is the largest and most spectacular in northern Europe. Popular Danish artists provide entertainment at a large, fun fair. For more information, contact the Turistbureau, Godthåbsuej 4, DK-8600 Silkeborg (tel. 86-85-31-55; www.ildregatta.dk). Mid-August.

Fall Ballet Festival (Copenhagen). The internationally acclaimed Royal Danish Ballet returns home to perform at the Old Stage of the Royal Theater just before the tourist season ends. For tickets, contact the Royal Theater, Box 2185, DK-1017 Copenhagen (tel. 33-69-69-69; www.kglteater.dk). Mid-August to September.

Århus Festival Week. A wide range of cultural activities, including opera, jazz, classical and folk music, ballet, and theater, is presented. It's the largest cultural festival in Scandinavia. Sporting activities and street parties abound as well. For more information, contact tel. 87-30-83-00 or go to www.aarhusfestival.dk. Late August to early September.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment." For repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find that an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and Department of State advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia (www.expedia.com) also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

Denmark is viewed as a "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots, most foodstuff is safe, and the water in cities and towns is potable. If you're concerned, order bottled water. It is easy to get a prescription filled in towns and cities, and nearly all places throughout Denmark contain hospitals with English-speaking doctors and well-trained medical staffs.

Denmark is part of the civilized world. In fact, it's one of the most advanced countries on the planet.

Availability of Healthcare -- If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost US$10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are US$225 individual, US$350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Staying Safe

Denmark has a relatively low crime rate with rare, but increasing, instances of violent crime. Most crimes involve the theft of personal property from cars or residences or in public areas. Pickpockets and purse snatchers often work in pairs or groups, with one distracting the victim while another grabs valuables. Often they operate in or near the major rail stations in Copenhagen. Hotel breakfast rooms and lobbies attract professional, well-dressed thieves who blend in with guests and target purses and briefcases left unguarded by unsuspecting tourists and business travelers. Valuables should not be left unguarded in parked vehicles.

The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while overseas, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate for assistance. The Embassy/Consulate staff can, for example, assist you in finding appropriate medical care and contacting family members or friends, and explain how funds can be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal justice process and to find an attorney if needed.

U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet A Safe Trip Abroad for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402; via the Internet at www.gpoaccess.gov; or via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

In general, Denmark is one of the most gay-friendly countries in Europe and was one of the first to embrace same-sex marriages. Antidiscrimination laws have been in effect since 1987. Most Danes are exceptionally friendly and tolerant of lifestyles of either sexual preference. Obviously, an urban center such as Copenhagen will have a more openly gay life than rural areas. In many ways, the Erotic Museum in Copenhagen illustrates the city's attitudes toward sex -- both heterosexual and homosexual. The history of both forms of sexual pleasure is presented in an unprejudiced manner.

The Danish National Association for Gays and Lesbians (Landsforeningen for Bøsser og Lesbiske, abbreviated as LBL) maintains its headquarters at Teglgaardstræde 13, 1007 Copenhagen (tel. 33-13-19-48; www.lbl.dk), with branches in at least four of the larger cities of Denmark. You might find it hard to reach a live person on their telephone line (their hours of operation are limited), but they maintain one of the most informative and user-friendly websites of any gay organization in Europe, complete with maps on how to reach the gay and lesbian venues they describe on their site.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) provides gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises. And Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Special-Interest Vacations

Bus Tours

ScanAm World Tours (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scanamtours.com) offers a tour through the "Heart of Fairy Tale Denmark." You can choose a 5-day, 4-night trip through Hans Christian Andersen country, including a visit to Odense (his birthplace) and an excursion to Legoland. Tours begin at $620 per person.

Self-Drive Tours

Several companies offer self-drive tours, which usually include accommodations, rental cars, and customized itineraries. Scantours Inc. (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scantours.net) features the 5-day "Taste of Danish Castles & Manor Houses" tour, which is available year-round. Prices begin at $785 per person. The company also sponsors a tour of Danish inns. The 4-day self-drive tour includes accommodations, breakfast, car rental, and an itinerary. The typical price for an inn is $182 per night in a double room, and the trip builds from there.

Bicycle Tours

An excellent way to explore the flat, rolling Danish countryside is on a bicycle. Numerous organizations (including Scantours Inc. and ScanAm Tours) sponsor bike tours through various regions of the country. You can choose one that covers the castles, beaches, and fjords of northern Denmark; the southern Funen islands; the beaches and marshland of western Jutland; or the lake country in eastern Jutland. Blue Marble Travel (tel. 800/BLUE-8689 [258-3868] or 215/923-3788; www.bluemarble.org) offers 7-day excursions to Hans Christian Andersen country and several small islands in the Baltic for $1,508 per person. Dansk Cyklist Forbund, Rømersgade 7, DK-1362 Copenhagen (tel. 33-32-31-21; www.dcf.dk), can provide the latest information on cycling tours in Denmark.

Adventure Travel Operators

In North America -- Crossing Latitudes, 420 W. Koch St., Bozeman, MT 59715 (tel. 800/572-8747 or fax 406/585-5356; www.crossinglatitudes.com), offers sea kayaking and backpacking expeditions throughout the region; and Blue Marble Travel, 211 South St., Philadelphia, PA 19147 (tel. 215/923-3788; www.bluemarble.org), features reasonably priced biking and hiking trips in Denmark and Norway.

In the U.K. -- The oldest travel agency in Britain, Cox & Kings, Gordon House 10, Greencoat Place, London SW1P 1PH (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), was established in 1758. Today the company specializes in unusual, if pricey, holidays. Its offerings in Scandinavia include cruises through the spectacular fjords and waterways, bus and rail tours through sites of historic and aesthetic interest, and visits to the region's best-known handicraft centers, Viking burial sites, and historic churches. The company's staff is noted for its focus on tours of ecological and environmental interest.

To cycle through the splendors of Scandinavia, you can join Britain's oldest and largest association of bicycle riders, the Cyclists' Touring Club (CTC Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX; www.ctc.org.uk). Founded in 1878, it charges £12 to £35 ($23 to $60) a year for membership, which includes information, maps, and a subscription to a newsletter packed with practical information and morale boosters, plus recommended cycling routes through virtually every country in Europe. The organization's information bank on scenic routes through Scandinavia is especially comprehensive. Membership can be arranged over the phone with a credit card (such as MasterCard, Visa, Access, or Barclaycard).

Learning Vacations

Danish Cultural Institute (Det Danske Kultur Institutu), Farvergade 27L, DK-1463 Copenhagen (tel. 33-13-54-48; fax 33-15-10-91; www.dankultur.dk), offers summer seminars in English, including a course in Danish culture. Credit programs are available, but many courses are geared toward professional groups from abroad. An especially interesting course for those with some knowledge of Danish is "Danmark, Danskerne, Dansk," which includes language instruction.

An international series of programs for persons over 50 who are interested in combining travel and learning is offered by Interhostel, developed by the University of New Hampshire. Each program lasts 2 weeks, is led by a university faculty or staff member, and is arranged in conjunction with a host college, university, or cultural institution. Participants may stay longer if they want. Interhostel offers programs consisting of cultural and intellectual activities, with field trips to museums and other centers of interest. For information, contact the University of New Hampshire, Division of Continuing Education, 6 Garrison Ave., Durham, NH 03824 (tel. 800/313-5327 or 603/862-2015; www.learn.unh.edu).

Another good source of information about courses in Denmark is the American Institute for Foreign Study (AIFS), River Plaza, 9 W. Broad St., Stamford, CT 06902 (tel. 866/906-2437; www.aifs.org). This organization can set up transportation and arrange for summer courses, with bed and board included.

The largest organization dealing with higher education in Europe is the Institute of International Education (IIE), 809 United Nations Plaza, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/883-8200; www.iie.org). A few of its booklets are free, but for $47, plus $6 for postage, you can buy the more definitive Vacation Study Abroad. The Information Center in New York is open to the public Tuesday through Thursday from 11am to 4pm. The institute is closed on major holidays.

One well-recommended clearinghouse for academic programs throughout the world is the National Registration Center for Study Abroad (NRCSA), 823 N. 2nd St., P.O. Box 1393, Milwaukee, WI 53203 (tel. 414/278-0631; www.nrcsa.com). The organization maintains language study programs throughout Europe.

Heritage -- The Search for Roots

More than 12 million North Americans have Scandinavian roots, many in Denmark. To help you trace your ancestry, Danish consulates can furnish fact sheets. Many original Danish records are available on microfilm from The Family History Library, 35 N. West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84150 (tel. 801/240-2331).

Established in 1992, the Danish Immigrant Museum, Elk Horn, Iowa (tel. 712/764-7001; www.dkmuseum.org), is devoted to telling the story of migration to the United States.

In Denmark itself, the major archives concerning immigration are held at Det Danske Udvandrerarkiv (Danes' Worldwide Archives), Arkivstræde 1, P.O. Box 1731, DK-9100 Aalborg (tel. 99-31-42-20; fax 98-10-22-48; www.emiarch.dk).

Regions in Brief

Zealand

Home to Denmark's capital, Copenhagen, the island of Zealand draws more visitors than any other region. The largest island in Denmark, Zealand is also the wealthiest and most densely populated. Other cities include Roskilde, about 30km (19 miles) west of Copenhagen, which is home to a landmark cathedral (burial place of many kings) and a collection of Viking vessels discovered in a fjord. In the medieval town of Køge, witches were burned in the Middle Ages. One of the most popular attractions on the island is Helsingør ("Elsinore" in English), about 40km (25 miles) north of Copenhagen, where visitors flock to visit "Hamlet's castle." Off the southeast corner of the island lies the island of Møn, home to Møns Klint, an expanse of white cliffs that rises sharply out of the Baltic.

Jutland

The peninsula of Jutland links the mostly island nation of Denmark with Germany. It is the only part of Denmark on the European continent. Jutland has miles of coastline, with some of northern Europe's finest sandy beaches. Giant dunes and moors abound on the west coast, whereas the interior has rolling pastures and beech forests. Jutland's more interesting towns and villages include Jelling, heralded as the birthplace of Denmark and the ancient seat of the Danish kings; here you can see an extensive collection of Viking artifacts excavated from ancient burial mounds. The Viking port of Ribe is the oldest town in Denmark. It's known throughout the world as the preferred nesting ground for numerous endangered storks. The resort of Fanø, with its giant dunes, heather-covered moors, and forests, is an excellent place to bird-watch or view Denmark's varied wildlife. The university city of Århus is Jutland's capital and second only to Copenhagen in size. Aalborg, founded by Vikings more than 1,000 years ago, is a thriving commercial center in northern Jutland. It lies close to Rebild National Park and the Rold Forest.

Funen

With an area of 2,980 sq. km (1,150 sq. miles), Funen is Denmark's second-largest island. Called the "garden of Denmark," Funen is known to the world as the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Orchards, stately manors, and castles dot its rolling countryside. Odense, Andersen's birthplace, is a mecca for fairy-tale writers and fans from around the world. Nearby stands Egeskov Castle, resting on oak columns in the middle of a small lake. It's Europe's best-preserved Renaissance castle. Funen has a number of bustling ports, including Nyborg in the east and Svendborg at the southern end of the island. Ærøskøbing is a medieval market town that's a showplace of Scandinavian heritage.

Bornholm

In the Baltic Sea, southeast of Zealand and close to Sweden, lies the island of Bornholm. Prehistoric monuments and runic stones pepper the countryside, and numerous fishing villages dot the shoreline. On the northern coast, near Hammerhus, the Bornholm Animal and Nature Park is home to many native species as well as some that have been introduced from other parts of Scandinavia. Some of Europe's largest castle ruins dot this region of the island. The town of Rønne is the site of Denmark's oldest regional theater; it stages numerous concerts and shows year-round. The island of Christiansø, off the coast of Bornholm, was the site of Denmark's penal colony. Criminals sentenced to life imprisonment were deported to the island, where they spent their lives in slavery.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many Norwegian hotels offer discounts for seniors. In Denmark people over age 67 are entitled to 50% off the price of first- and second-class train tickets. Ask for the discount at the ticket office.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and over.

INTRAV (tel. 800/680-2858; www.tourvacationstogo.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler, not specifically seniors, with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private jet adventures, small boat cruises down jungle rivers, and trips to the Norwegian fjords.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

In general, Denmark's trains, airlines, ferries, department stores, and malls are accessible. For information about wheelchair access, ferry and air travel, parking, and other matters, contact the Danish Tourist Board.

Useful information for people with disabilities is provided by De Samvirkende Invalideorganisationer (Danish Disability Council, abbreviated in Denmark as DSI), Bredgade 25, 1260 Copenhagen, Denmark (tel. 33-11-10-44; www.dch.dk). Established in 1934, it organizes 29 smaller organizations, each involved with issues of concern to physically challenged people, into one coherent grouping that represents the estimated 300,000 persons with disabilities living in Denmark today.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a referral resource for travelers who are blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com) and Open World Magazine, published by SATH.

For British Travelers -- The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London EC1V 8AF (tel. 020/7250-3222; www.radar.org.uk), publishes three holiday "fact packs." The first provides general information, including tips for planning and booking a holiday, obtaining insurance, and handling finances; the second outlines transportation available when going abroad and equipment for rent; and the third deals with specialized accommodations. Another good resource is Holiday Care Service, Seventh Floor, Sunley House, 4 Bedford Park, Croydon, Surrey CR0 2AP (tel. 0845/124-9971; www.holidaycare.org.uk), a national charity advising on accessible accommodations for seniors and persons with disabilities. Annual membership is £37 ($63).

Tips on Accommodations

There are other alternatives, but most visitors to Denmark check into a hotel. Accommodations range from the most basic, perhaps lacking private bathrooms, to the most deluxe. Outside of Copenhagen, you are likely to encounter first class in the top category instead of luxe accommodations. The one thing you'll not find is a truly cheap hotel. Even the most inexpensive hotels might be considered a bit pricey in some parts of the world. To compensate, many hotels, especially chain members, offer discounted rates on weekends, when hotels lose their most reliable client -- the commercial traveler.

Our accommodation listings include service charges and taxes so you won't be shocked when the time comes to pay the bill and a lot of extras are added on, as is the situation in many European countries.

Denmark classifies its hotels by stars ranging from one (the most basic) to five (deluxe). A hotel without a restaurant is called Hotel Garni. One-star hotel rooms have a hand basin with hot and cold running water and at least one communal bathroom per 10 rooms; two-star hotels have at least 30% of the units with private bathrooms; three-star hotels offer rooms with their own private bathroom (such hotels also have an elevator if there are more than two floors). Moving up, four-star hotels offer round-the-clock reception, an a la carte restaurant, room service, minibars, laundry service, and a bar. The best hotels in Denmark are five-stars, with luxuriously appointed rooms, often indoor pools, professionally staffed fitness centers, air-conditioning, safes in the rooms, and round-the-clock room service, among other luxuries.

If you have not booked a room prior to your arrival in Copenhagen, you may call personally at Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Information at Bernstorffsgade 1, opposite the Central Station next to Tivoli. A handling fee of $9 is charged. There is also a booking desk, charging the same handling fee, at the Copenhagen Airport Arrival Hall.

Advance booking online is possible through Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Information & Booking Center, Gammel Kongevej 1, DK 1610 Copenhagen (tel. 70-22-24-42; www.visitcopenhagen.dk). Outside Copenhagen, bookings can be made online at www.visitdenmark.com, through local tourist offices, or directly with the hotel.

Alternative Accommodations

If you'd like to avoid a stay in a hotel, consider these other options:

Bed & Breakfast -- Dansk Bed & Breakfast publishes a catalog of guesthouses throughout Denmark that receive visitors for overnight stays, fortifying them the next morning with a hearty Danish breakfast. A typical B&B might be an 18th-century farmhouse built of granite and half-timbering. Contact Dansk Bed & Breakfast, at Sankt Peders Stræde 41, DK-1453 Copenhagen (tel. 39-61-04-05; www.bedandbreakfast.dk).

The densest concentration of B&Bs is found on the Hans Christian Andersen island of Funen. There is a separate organization handling these bookings: Nyborg Tourist Office, Torvey 9, DK-5800 Nyborg (tel. 65-31-02-80; www.bed-breakfast-fyn.dk). A typical overnight price for a double room in a B&B is DKK170 ($29/£17).

Castles & Manor Houses -- Denmark is riddled with old manor houses and even a few small castles that receive paying guests all year. In our view, this type of lodging is the most exciting way to stay in Denmark, because of the grandeur of the buildings. You get to feel like a king (or queen), or at least a prince or princess for the night. Some of the establishments in this category are more like country homes than castles or manors. By taking in boarders, many of the owners of these privately owned estates are preserving Denmark's cultural heritage. For more information, contact Danish Castles & Manor Houses, Sankt Leonis Stræde 1A, DK-8800 Viborg (tel. 86-60-38-44; www.slotte-herregaarde.dk).

Danish Inns -- Nearly 100 atmospheric, old-world accommodations spread across the country have formed an association, offering rooms in kros (inns) that often date back hundreds of years. The bedrooms, however, are mostly renovated in the modern style. You get atmosphere and comfort, and most often good, solid food, both regional dishes and in many cases French specialties as well. For this type of accommodation, book through Danska Kroer og Hoteller, Vejlevej 16, DK- 8700 Horsens (tel. 75-64-87-00; www.krohotel.dk).

Farm Holidays -- Some 110 farms all over Denmark receive paying guests. To get close to the heart of the country and to meet the Danes, there is no better way than spending a week on one of these farms. In addition to an atmospheric stay, you can enjoy good country cooking with fresh vegetables, newly laid eggs, and rich butter. You stay on a farm as the guest of the family, joining members and other guests for meals. Often lodgings are in a small apartment on the grounds or even a cottage near the main building. In many cases you do your own housekeeping. Prices average around $35 per person, including a full Danish breakfast. You can book with the farm directly or else go through Landsforeningen for Landboturisme, Lerbakken 7, DK-8410 Rønde (tel. 87-37-39-00; www.bondegaardsferie.dk).

Holiday Homes -- Yes, it's possible to rent your own house -- most often a seaside cottage -- throughout Denmark. The house may be a snug retreat for two or spacious enough to accommodate 10 to 12 guests. Some of these holiday homes are within a 30-minute drive of Copenhagen. They are available all year, and prices begin at around $600 per week, the rates depending on the season, size, and location. Naturally, seaside holiday homes are the most sought after and most expensive in July and August. Many of the best homes are found on the west coast of Jutland, often with an indoor swimming pool and sauna. To book one of these homes, contact one of the following organizations: Dansommer (tel. 86-17-61-22; www.dansommer.com); Novasol AS (tel. 73-75-66-11; www.novasol.com); and Sol og Strand (tel. 99-44-44-44; www.sologstrand.com).

Home Stays -- Friendship Force, 34 Peachtree St. NW, Suite 900, Atlanta, GA 30303 (tel. 404/522-9490; www.thefriendshipforce.org), is a nonprofit organization that encourages friendship among people worldwide. Dozens of branch offices throughout North America arrange visits, usually once a year. Because of group bookings, the airfare to the host country is usually less than the cost of individual APEX tickets. Each participant spends 2 weeks in the host country, the first as a guest in the home of a family and the second traveling in the host country.

Servas, 1125 16th St., Suite 201, Arcata, CA 95521 (tel. 707/825-1714; www.usservas.org), is an international nonprofit, nongovernmental, interfaith network of travelers and hosts whose goal is to help promote world peace, goodwill, and understanding. Servas hosts offer travelers hospitality for 2 days. Travelers pay an $85 annual fee and a $25 list deposit after filling out an application and being approved by an interviewer (interviewers are located across the U.S.). They then receive Servas directories listing the names and addresses of Servas hosts.

Home Exchanges -- One of the most exciting breakthroughs in modern tourism is the home exchange. Sometimes the family automobile is even included. Of course, you must be comfortable with the idea of having strangers in your home, and you must be content to spend your vacation in one place. One potential problem, though, is that you may not get a home in the area you request.

Intervac USA, 30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA 94920 (tel. 800/756-HOME [756-4663]; www.intervacus.com), is part of the largest worldwide exchange network. It contains more than 10,000 homes in more than 36 countries. Members contact each other directly. The cost is $85 plus postage, which includes the purchase of three of the company's catalogs, plus the inclusion of your own listing in whichever catalog you select. If you want to publish a photograph of your home, there is an additional charge of $15. Fees begin at $90, going up to $150.

The Invented City (tel. 415/846-7588; www.invented-city.com) publishes home-exchange listings three times a year. For the $50 membership fee, you can list your home with your own written descriptive summary.

Home Link, 2937 NW 9 St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33311 (tel. 800/638-3841 or 954/566-2687; www.homelink.org), will send you five directories a year for $130.

Chain Hotels & Discounts -- The most prevalent chain hotel in Denmark is Best Western (tel. 800/937-8376; www.bestwestern.com). It offers a Best Western Advance Card that allows you to take advantage of special "summer low" or "winter special" promotion rates, and grants such privileges as allowing one child under the age of 12 to stay free in a room shared with parents.

Visitor Information

In the United States, contact the Scandinavian Tourist Board, 655 Third Ave., 18th Floor, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/885-9700; www.goscandinavia.com), for maps, sightseeing information, ferry schedules, or whatever other travel information you need. You can also try the Danish Tourist Board, 655 Third Ave., 18th Floor, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/885-9700; www.visitdenmark.com).

In the United Kingdom, contact the Danish Tourist Board, 55 Sloane St., London SW1X 9SY (tel. 020/7259-5959).

Maps -- The best map for touring Denmark is part of the series published by Michelin. It's for sale at all major bookstores in Copenhagen, including the most centrally located one, Boghallen, Rådhuspladsen 37 (tel. 33-47-25-60), in the Town Hall Square.

Websites

To begin your exploration of Denmark, visit the Scandinavian Tourist Board (www.goscandinavia.com), the Danish Tourist Board (www.visitdenmark.com), and Wonderful Copenhagen (www.visitcopenhagen.dk), all of which offer extensive links to other organizations, accommodations, attractions, and other information. Get information on Danish culture, tour suggestions, and events at CultureNet Denmark (tel. 45/33-74-51-00; www.kulturarv.dk).

Telephones

The country code for Denmark is 45. For international calls, dial 00, then the country code, the area code, and the number. Try to avoid calling from your hotel. The surcharges are often outrageous.

Dial 118 to find out a number in Denmark, or 113 for international assistance. If you need operator assistance for international calls, dial 115. Virtually all international operators speak English.

Coin-operated phones are being phased out. Visitors can purchase a telephone card at most kiosks, groceries, and post offices in Denmark. If you face a coin-operated phone, know that these take 1-, 2-, 5-, 10-, or 20-kroner coins.

Tips for Single Travelers

Single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price of accommodations. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers on the trip, or before you go you can find a compatible roommate from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only trips to such places as Scandinavia. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 160 active-travel trips to 30 destinations worldwide, including Denmark.

For more information, check out Eleanor Berman's latest edition of Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations (Globe Pequot), a guide with advice on traveling alone, whether on your own or on a group tour.

Getting There

By Plane

Flying in winter -- Scandinavia's off season -- is cheapest; summer is the most expensive. Spring and fall are in between. In any season, midweek fares (Mon-Thurs) are the lowest.

From North America -- SAS (Scandinavian Airlines Systems; tel. 800/221-2350 in the U.S., or 0870/6072-7727 in the U.K.; www.flysas.com) has more nonstop flights to Scandinavia from more North American cities than any other airline, and it has more flights to and from Denmark and within Scandinavia than any other airline in the world. From Seattle and Chicago, SAS offers nonstop flights to Copenhagen daily in midsummer and almost every day in winter; from Newark, New Jersey, there are daily flights year-round to Copenhagen. SAS's agreement with United Airlines, the "Star Alliance," connects the gateway cities of Seattle, Chicago, New York, and Washington, D.C., to other U.S. cities (such as Dallas/Fort Worth, Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Minneapolis/St. Paul, and San Francisco).

Nonstop flights to Copenhagen from the greater New York area take about 7 1/2 hours; from Chicago, around 8 1/2 hours; from Seattle, 9 1/2 hours.

From The U.K. -- British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297], or 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com) offers convenient connections through Heathrow and Gatwick to Copenhagen. The price structure (and discounted prices on hotel packages) sometimes makes a stopover in Britain less expensive than you might have thought. SAS offers five daily nonstop flights to Copenhagen from Heathrow (1 3/4 hr.), two daily nonstops from Glasgow (2 hr.), and three daily nonstops from Manchester (2 hr., 20 min.). Other European airlines with connections through their home countries to Copenhagen include Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500 in the U.S., or 0870/787-4020 in the U.K.; www.icelandair.com); KLM (tel. 800/225-2525 in the U.S., or 0870/507-4074 in the U.K.; www.klm.com); and Lufthansa (tel. 800/645-3880 in the U.S., or 0870/8377-747 in the U.K.; www.lufthansa.com). Be aware, however, that unless you make all your flight arrangements in North America before you go, you might find some of these flights prohibitively expensive.

By Car

You can easily drive to Denmark from Germany. Many people drive to Jutland from Hamburg, Bremerhaven, and Lübeck. A bridge links Jutland and the central island of Funen. In 1998, a bridge opened that goes across the Great Belt from Funen to the island of Zealand, site of the city of Copenhagen. The bridge lies near Nyborg, Denmark. Once in West Zealand, you'll still have to drive east across the island to Copenhagen.

Car-ferry service to Denmark from the United Kingdom generally leaves passengers at Esbjerg, where they must cross from Jutland to Copenhagen. From Germany, it's possible to take a car ferry from Travemünde, northeast of Lübeck, which will deposit you at Gedser, Denmark. From here, connect with the E55, an express highway north to Copenhagen.

By Train

If you're in Europe, it's easy to get to Denmark by train. Copenhagen is the main rail hub between Scandinavia and the rest of Europe. For example, the London-Copenhagen train -- through Ostende, Belgium, or Hook, Holland -- leaves four times daily and takes 22 hours. About 10 daily express trains run from Hamburg to Copenhagen (5 1/2 hr.). There are also intercity trains on the Merkur route from Karlsruhe, Germany, to Cologne to Hamburg to Copenhagen. The Berlin-Ostbahnhof-Copenhagen train (8 1/2 hr.) connects with Eastern European trains. Two daily express trains make this run.

Thousands of trains run from Britain to the Continent, and at least some of them go directly across or under the Channel, through France or Belgium and Germany into Denmark. For example, a train leaves London's Victoria Station daily at 9am and arrives in Copenhagen the next day at 8:25am. Another train leaves London's Victoria Station at 8:45pm and arrives in Copenhagen the next day at 8:20pm. Both go through Dover-Ostende, or with a connection at Brussels. Once you're in Copenhagen, you can make rail connections to Norway, Finland, and Sweden. Because of the time and distances involved, many passengers rent a couchette (sleeping berth), which costs around £20 ($38) per person. Designed like padded benches stacked bunk-style, they're usually clustered six to a compartment.

If you plan to travel extensively on European and/or British railroads, it would be worthwhile for you to get a copy of the latest edition of the Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads. It's available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

Rail Passes for North American Travelers
Eurailpass -- The Eurailpass permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are available for purchase online (www.eurail.com) and at various offices/agents around the world. Travel agents and railway agents in such cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell Eurailpasses. You can purchase them at the North American offices of CIT Travel Service, the French National Railroads, the German Federal Railroads, and the Swiss Federal Railways.

It is strongly recommended that you purchase passes before you leave home as not all passes are available in Europe; also, passes purchased in Europe will cost about 20% more. Numerous options are available for travel in France.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 20 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period, which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are US$745 for 15 days; US$965 for 21 days; US$1,199 for 1 month; US$1,695 for 2 months; and US$2,089 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 20 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs US$629 for 15 days; US$819 for 21 days; US$1,019 for 1 month; US$1,439 for 2 months; and US$1,785 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs US$485 for 15 days; US$625 for 21 days; US$779 for 1 month; US$1,099 for 2 months; and US$1,359 for 3 months.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months you pay US$469 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth, for travelers 25 and under, allows second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Select Pass, with fees starting at US$305. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together, first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Select Pass, with fees starting at US$399.

Where To Buy Rail Passes -- Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL [272-7245]; www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY (tel. 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers 25 and under; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

Scanrail Pass -- If your visit to Europe will be primarily in Scandinavia, the Scanrail pass may be better and cheaper than the Eurailpass. This pass allows its owner a designated number of days of free rail travel within a larger time block. (Presumably, this allows for days devoted to sightseeing scattered among days of rail transfers between cities or sites of interest.) You can choose a total of any 5 days of unlimited rail travel during a 15-day period, 10 days of rail travel within a 1-month period, or 1 month of unlimited rail travel. The pass, which is valid on all lines of the state railways of Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden, offers discounts or free travel on some (but not all) of the region's ferry lines as well. The pass can be purchased only in North America. It's available from any office of RailEurope (tel. 800/848-7245) or ScanAm World Tours, 108 N. Main St., Cranbury, NJ 08512 (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scandinaviantravel.com).

Depending on whether you choose first- or second-class rail transport, 5 days out of 10 days costs $249 to $329, 8 days out of 2 months costs $180 to $360, 10 days out of 22 days costs $359 to $489, and 21 consecutive days of unlimited travel costs $469 to $629. Seniors get an 11% discount, and students receive a 30% discount.

Eurail Denmark Pass -- For those who plan to travel only in Denmark, a series of cost-cutting passes are offered. The major one is the Eurail Denmark Pass, offering both first- and second-class unlimited travel on Denmark's national rail network. For travel any 3 or 7 days within a 1-month period, the 3-day pass costs $98 to $149 for adults (first and second class), or $50 to $75 for children ages 4 to 11. The 7-day pass goes for $149 to $230 for adults or $75 to $116 for children.

Two or more passengers traveling together can take advantage of the Eurail Denmark Saverpass, offering unlimited travel in first and second class. On this deal, you get 3 days of travel in 1 month for $85 to $126 for adults or $44 to $64 for children 4 to 11. For 7 days in 1 month, the cost ranges from $126 to $197 for adults or $64 to $99 for children.

A better deal for passengers 25 and under is the Eurail Denmark Youthpass, costing $76 for 3 days in 1 month, or $113 for 7 days.

Rail Passes for British Travelers
If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you may prefer one of the three rail passes designed for unlimited train travel within a designated region during a predetermined number of days. These passes are sold in Britain and several other European countries.

An InterRail Pass is available to passengers of any nationality, with some restrictions -- they must be under age 26 and able to prove residency in a European or North African country (Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia) for at least 6 months before buying the pass. It allows unlimited travel through Europe, except Albania and the republics of the former Soviet Union. Prices are complicated and vary depending on the countries you want to include. For pricing purposes, Europe is divided into eight zones; the cost depends on the number of zones you include. For ages 25 and under, the most expensive option (£399) allows 1 month of unlimited travel in all eight zones and is known to the staff as a "global." The least expensive option (£159) allows 5 days of travel within 10 days.

Passengers age 26 and older can buy an InterRail 26-Plus Pass. The cost varies from £359 to £489 for 16 days to £599 to £809 for 1 month. Passengers must meet the same residency requirements that apply to the InterRail Pass.

For information on buying individual rail tickets or any of the just-mentioned passes, contact National Rail Inquiries, Victoria Station, London (tel. 08705/848-848). Tickets and passes also are available at any of the larger railway stations, as well as selected travel agencies throughout Britain and the rest of Europe.

By Ship & Ferry

It's easy to travel by water from several ports to Denmark. Liners carrying cars and passengers operate from England, Germany, Poland, Norway, and Sweden. Check with your travel agent about these cruises.

From Britain -- DFDS Seaways (tel. 0871/522-9955; www.dfdsseaways.com) runs vessels year-round between Harwich, England, and Esbjerg in West Jutland. The crossing takes 16 to 20 hours. The same line also sails from Newcastle upon Tyne to Esbjerg, but only in the summer, as part of a 22-hour passage. Overnight cabins and space for cars are available on both routes.

From Norway & Sweden -- Norwegian Coastal Voyage Inc. (tel. 866/257-6071 or 212/319-1390 in the U.S.; www.hurtigruten.com) operates vessels from Oslo to Hirtshals in North Jutland.

Stena Line runs popular sea links from Oslo to Frederikshavn, North Jutland (11 1/2 hr.), and from Gothenburg, Sweden, to Frederikshavn (3 hr.). For information, schedules, and fares, contact Stena Line UK, Ltd. (tel. 08705/70-70-70; www.stenaline.co.uk). For 24-hour updates on sailing, call tel. 08705/755-755.

Money

Currency

Although Denmark is a member of the European Union, the Danes rejected the euro as their form of currency. They continue to use the krone (crown), which breaks down into 100 øre. The plural is kroner. The international monetary designation for the Danish kroner is "DKK." (The Swedish currency is the kronor, but note the different spelling.)

At this writing, in the wake of some of the most unpredicted economic swings since before World War II, $1 US = 5.85 kroner, or 1 DKK = 17¢; £1 = 10 DKK, or 1 DKK = 10p; and one Danish krone = 13 europence, or 1€ = DKK7.5.

It's a good idea to exchange at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal) so that you can avoid lines at airport ATMs. You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or at your bank. American Express also dispenses traveler's checks and foreign currency via www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/807-6233, but they'll charge a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs. American Express cardholders should dial tel. 800/221-7282; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.

ATMs

PLUS, Cirrus, and other networks connecting automated teller machines (ATMs) operate throughout Denmark. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Important note: Make sure that the PINs on your bank cards and credit cards will work in Denmark. You'll need a four-digit code (six digits won't work); if you have a six-digit code, you'll have to go into your bank and get a new PIN for your trip. If you're unsure about this, contact Cirrus or PLUS . Be sure to check the daily withdrawal limit at the same time.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800 or 800/221-7282 for card holders; this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee [for checks up to $1,500] at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler's check exchange rates (and service fees).

In Denmark, the most commonly accepted credit cards are MasterCard and Visa. Of secondary importance are American Express and Diners Club.

Bank Fees for Charge Cards -- For all restaurants in Denmark, there is an assessed bank fee from 3% to 7% on charge cards if the card is not a Danish card.

Currency Exchange

Banks offer the best rates for performing currency exchanges. Most hotels will exchange money but usually at an unfavorable rate.

Many hotels in Denmark simply do not accept a dollar- or pound-denominated personal check; those that do will certainly charge for making the conversion. In some cases, a hotel may accept countersigned traveler's checks or a credit or charge card.

If you're making a deposit on a hotel reservation, it's cheaper and easier to pay with a check drawn from a Norwegian bank. This can be arranged by a large commercial bank or by a specialist such as Ruesch International, 700 11th St. NW, Fourth Floor, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 800/424-2923 or 202/408-1200; www.ruesch.com), which performs a wide variety of conversion-related tasks, usually for about $15 per transaction.

If you need a check payable in Danish currency, call Ruesch's toll-free number, describe what you need, and write down the transaction number. Mail your dollar-denominated personal check (payable to Ruesch International) to the Washington, D.C., office. When it's received, the company will mail you a check denominated in the requested currency for the specified amount, minus the $3 charge. The company can also help you with wire transfers, as well as converting VAT (value-added tax) refund checks. Information is mailed upon request.

In England, contact Ruesch International Ltd., Lower Cookham Road, Maidenhead Berkshire SL6 8XY (tel. 0845/880-0400).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

U.S., Canadian, U.K., Irish, Australian, and New Zealand citizens with a valid passport don't need a visa to enter Denmark if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work there. If after entering Denmark you want to stay more than 90 days, you can apply for a permit for an extra 90 days at your home country's consulate, which as a rule is granted immediately. If your passport is lost or stolen, head to your consulate as soon as possible for a replacement.

Passports -- The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Denmark -- Foreign visitors can bring along most items for personal use duty-free, including fishing tackle, a pair of skis, two tennis rackets, a baby carriage, two hand cameras with 10 rolls of film, and 400 cigarettes or a quantity of cigars or pipe tobacco not exceeding 500 grams (1.1 lb.). There are strict limits on importing alcoholic beverages. However, for alcohol bought tax-paid, limits are much more liberal than in other countries of the European Union.

What You Can Take Home from Denmark --
U.S. Citizens: -- or specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: -- For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 02920/501-261 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: -- A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: -- Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting," paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Tips for Families

The family vacation is a rite of passage for many households, one that in a split second can devolve into a National Lampoon farce. But as any veteran family vacationer will assure you, a family trip can be among the most pleasurable and rewarding times of your life.

Most Danish hoteliers let children 12 and under stay in a room with their parents free; others do not. Sometimes this requires a little negotiation at the reception desk.

Danes like kids but don't offer a lot of special amenities for them. For example, a kiddies' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. You can, however, order a half portion, and most waiters will oblige.

At attractions, even if it isn't specifically posted, inquire if a kids' discount is available. European Community citizens 17 and under are admitted free to all state-run museums.

Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Getting Around

By Plane

The best way to get around Denmark is by private car on the excellent road network. In lieu of that, nearly all major towns, and certainly most Danish cities, are serviced by trains, except certain offshore islands, which can be reached only by ferryboat. If you're traveling extensively in Europe, special European passes are also available.

SAS's "Visit Scandinavia" Fare -- The vast distances encourage air travel between Norway's far-flung points. One of the most worthwhile promotions is SAS's Visit Scandinavia Pass. Available only to travelers who fly SAS across the Atlantic, it includes up to six coupons, each of which is valid for any SAS flight within or between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Each coupon costs $60, $80, and $100, depending on the route. The pass is especially valuable if you plan to travel to the far northern frontiers of Sweden or Norway; in that case, the savings over the price of a regular economy-class ticket can be substantial. For information on buying the pass, call SAS (tel. 800/221-2350; www.flysas.com).

Within Denmark -- For those in a hurry, SAS (tel. 32-32-00-00 in Denmark) operates daily service between Copenhagen and points on Jutland's mainland. From Copenhagen, it takes about 40 minutes to fly to Aalborg, 35 minutes to Århus, and 30 minutes to Odense.

Fares to other Danish cities are sometimes included in a transatlantic ticket at no extra charge, as long as the additional cities are specified when the ticket is written.

By Train

Flat, low-lying Denmark, with its hundreds of bridges and absence of mountains, has a large network of railway lines that connect virtually every hamlet with the largest city, Copenhagen. For information, schedules, and fares anywhere in Denmark, call tel. 70-13-14-15. Waiting times for a live person on this telephone line range from long to very long. Alternatively, you can check the Danish National Railways website, www.dsb.dk, for schedules and prices, and to reserve seats.

A word you're likely to see and hear frequently is Lyntog ("Express Trains"), which are the fastest trains presently operational in Denmark. Be warned in advance that the most crowded times on Danish trains are Fridays, Sundays, and national holidays, so plan your reservations accordingly.

On any train in Denmark, children between the ages of 4 and 15 are charged half-price if they're accompanied by an adult, and up to two children 3 and under can travel free with an adult on any train in Denmark. Seniors 65 or older receive a discount of 20% for travel on Fridays, Sundays, and holidays, and a discount of 45% every other day of the week. No identification is needed when you buy your ticket, but the conductor who checks your ticket might ask for proof of age.

The Danish government offers dozens of discounts on the country's rail networks -- depending on the type of traveler, days or hours traveled, and destination. Because discounts change often, it's best to ask for a discount based on your age and the number of days (or hours) you intend to travel.

By Bus

By far, the best way to visit rural Denmark is by car, but if you want or need to travel by bus, be aware that you'll probably get your bus at the railway station. (In much of Scandinavia, buses take passengers to destinations not served by the train; therefore, the bus route often originates at the railway station.) The arrival of trains and departure of buses are usually closely timed.

For seniors 65 and over, round-trip bus tickets are sometimes offered at one-way prices (excluding Sat, Sun, and peak travel periods around Christmas and Easter). Most discounts are granted only to seniors who are traveling beyond the city limits of their point of origin.

By Car

Rentals -- Avis, Budget, and Hertz offer well-serviced, well-maintained fleets of cars. You may have to reserve and pay for your rental car in advance (usually 2 weeks, but occasionally as little as 48 hr.) to get the lowest rates. Unfortunately, if your trip is canceled or your arrival date changes, you might have to fill out a lot of forms for a refund. All three companies may charge slightly higher rates to clients who reserve less than 48 hours in advance and pay at pickup. The highest rates are charged to walk-in customers who arrange their rentals after they arrive in Denmark. If at all possible, you should reserve a car before you leave North America.

The Danish government imposes a whopping 25% tax on all car rentals. Agencies that encourage prepaid rates almost never collect this tax in advance -- instead, it's imposed as part of a separate transaction when you pick up the car. Furthermore, any car retrieved at a Danish airport is subject to a one-time supplemental tax of DKK255 ($43/£26), so you might prefer to pick up your car at a downtown location. Membership in certain travel clubs or organizations (such as AAA or AARP) might qualify you for a modest discount.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. and Canada; www.avis.com) maintains four offices in Copenhagen: two at the arrivals hall of the airport, one at Landgreven 10 (tel. 70-24-77-64), and another at Kampmannsgade 1 (tel. 70-24-77-07).

Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S.; tel. 800/472-3325 in Canada; www.budget.com) has two rental locations in Copenhagen. The larger branch is at the Copenhagen airport (tel. 35-53-39-00), and the other office is at Vesterfarimagsgade 7 (tel. 33-55-70-00).

Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com) has two offices in Copenhagen, one at the airport (tel. 33-17-90-20) and the other at Ved Vesterport 3 (tel. 33-17-90-20).

Also consider using a small company. Kemwel (tel. 800/678-0678 in the U.S.; www.kemwel.com) is the North American representative for two Denmark-based car companies, Van Wijk and Hertz. It may be able to offer attractive rental prices to North Americans who pay in full at least 10 days before their departure. Seniors and members of AAA get a 5% discount.

Driving Rules -- A valid driver's license from your home country is required. If you are in your own car, you need a certificate of registration and national plates. This is especially important for the people of Britain, who often drive to Denmark. Each rental agency should provide you with a triangular hazard warning sign. It's Danish law that you have this signal. Seat belts are required in both the front and the rear of the vehicle, and you must drive with low beams on at all times, even in the bright sunlight. Talking on a cellphone while driving is illegal. Be on the lookout for bicycle riders, who have the right of way if they are heading straight and an auto is making a turn.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Stations are plentiful throughout the land, and prices -- subject to almost daily fluctuations -- are extremely high. Most stations take credit cards and are self-service. In general, stations open daily at 6 or 7 in the morning, usually shutting down at 9pm (later in more congested areas).

When to Go

Denmark's climate is mild for a Scandinavian country -- New England farmers experience harsher winters. Summer temperatures average between 61°F and 77°F (16°C-25°C). Winter temperatures seldom go below 30°F (-1°C), thanks to the warming waters of the Gulf Stream. From the weather perspective, mid-April to November is a good time to visit.