Dinky Mizuna is the apex of Frank Bonanno's ever-growing Denver restaurant empire, spanning no less than 9 establishments. The small space turns out to be the perfect stage for some of the headiest fare in the West. He calls it “a food laboratory,” and the menu—which changes monthly—is a reflection of that ethos. A recent edition included asparagus bisque, seared scallops with saffron-braised onions, an ostrich strip steak. A nice match for the fare, the ambiance is romantic but simple, with a “wine library” and an open kitchen.