Where to Stay and Dine in Desierto de Tatacoa

There are a few basic hospedajes and campsites in and around Villavieja, and most are not particularly recommended. One exception is Hotel Boutique Yarayaka ★ (hotelyarayaka@gmail.com; tel. 313/247-0165), at Carrera 4 no. 4–43. This surprisingly chic 12-room property in the center of town has whitewashed walls, a thatched roof, and contemporary rooms. All have private bathrooms and good Wi-Fi. Best of all there’s an outdoor pool with lounge chairs, which helps make up for the lack of air-conditioning. Doubles COP$150,000.

Another option is El Peñon de Constantino ★ (www.desiertodelatatacoacolombia.com; tel. 317/698-8850), a collection of cushy safari-style tents with private bathrooms and running water, as well as basic cabins and thatched-roof malokas. There’s a simple restaurant on-site and a rock-wall pool fed by a natural spring. They can also help coordinate excursions in the desert. It’s about 2km beyond the observatory. Tents costs COP$80,000 for two, while the cabins, malokas, and camping are considerably less.