There's nothing stinky about this stellar seafood spot except, perhaps, the wait for a table. This fun, lively, rustic restaurant is reminiscent of a shabby-chic, woodsy, waterfront cabin. It's where the locals hang out over a few glasses of excellent wines and the famous Stinky's Stew. The latter is the A-list of the sea: Shrimp, mussels, Gulf fish, crab legs, oysters, and bay scallops, simmered in a wine and garlic broth with tomatoes, potatoes, and corn and—full yet?—served with a pressed crab meat po' boy. Whew. Stinky's also offers brunch and lunch and oysters, all day, all night, and in so many ways (ceviche-topped oysters are exceptional). Overlooking the marshy waters that make North Florida so Instagram-friendly is outdoor seating, on a wisely screened-in porch to evade those pesky, persistent mosquitoes. Note: This is also one of the few places in the area that has good late night menus.

They also own Red Fish Taco, 2052 W. County Hwy. 30A, (tel. 850/994-7443), and Stinky’s Bait Shack, 5994 County Rd. 30A, in Santa Rosa Beach ([tel] 850/622-2248).