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Dine atop Formica in detailed reproductions of Cleaver-era kitchens while TVs play black-and-white shows from the era. Waitresses gently give lip to customers as they sling blue-plate specials, meatloaf, pot roast, chicken pot pie, and other momlike dishes, but the favorite here is its peanut butter and jelly milkshake ($5.60). Attached is the Tune-In Lounge, a TV room for adults serving beer and cocktails “from Dad’s liquor cabinet.” Echo Lake. Main courses $16 to $22.