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By Rental Car -- If you rent a car, there's a fee of $12 to obtain a driver's license, which is available at the airports. The island has 500km (311 miles) of paved roads, and only in a few areas is a four-wheel-drive vehicle necessary. Note: Driving is on the left.

There are a handful of small, usually family-owned car rental companies, the condition and price of whose vehicles vary widely. They include Valley Rent-a-Car, Goodwill Road, Roseau (tel. 767/448-3233; www.valleyrentacar.com); and Best Deal Rent-A-Car, 15 Hanover St., Roseau (tel. 767/449-9204).

By Taxi -- You can hire a taxi at either the Melville Hall or Canefield airports. Prices are regulated by the government. If you want to see the island by taxi, the driver will charge from $70 to $120 for a tour that lasts between 4 and 5 hours. Rates are usually valid for up to four passengers. After 6pm, taxis may be hard to find, so call ahead.

By Minibus -- The public transportation system consists of private minibus service between Roseau and the rest of Dominica. These flamboyantly painted minibuses are filled mainly with schoolchildren, workers, and country people who need to come into Roseau. On most Caribbean islands, we don't recommend buses, but on Dominica they afford terrific insights into local life. Taxis may be a more reliable means of transport for visitors, but there are hotels at which buses call during the course of the day. You can also just hail a bus when you see it and tell the driver where you want to go. Fares range from 55¢ to $3.80. Buses are identified by the letter H that precedes their license numbers.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.