Planning a trip to Dominican Republic

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The area code for the Dominican Republic is 809.

Business Hours -- Most shops and businesses are open Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm. Those serving the tourist industry are also open on Saturday. Government offices are open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 2:30pm -- that is, officially. In reality, you shouldn't bother showing up until after 9am. Most banks are open Monday to Friday, 8am to 4pm.

Drinking Laws -- The official drinking age in the Dominican Republic is 18, but the law is not enforced very well.

Electricity -- The country generally uses 110-volt AC (60 cycles), so adapters and transformers are usually not necessary for American appliances.

Embassies -- All embassies are in Santo Domingo, the capital. The United States embassy is on Calle Cesar Nicholas Penson at the corner of Leopold Navarro (tel. 809/221-2171). The embassy of the United Kingdom is located at Hotel Santo Domingo, Ste. 1108 (tel. 809/472-7111). The embassy of Canada is found at Calle Capitán Eugenio de Marchena 39 (tel. 809/685-1136).

Gasoline (Petrol) -- This could be a problem if you're outside Santo Domingo or the major tourist areas such as Punta Cana or Puerto Plata. Most stations close at 7pm. Gasoline supplies are unreliable, and many stations will unexpectedly run out of gas. Try to drive with a tank at least half full.

Holidays -- January 1 New Year's Day; January 6 Epiphany/Three Kings Day; January 21 Our Lady of Altagracia; January 26 Duarte Day; February 27 Independence Day Carnival; March/April Maundy Thursday, Holiday Friday, Easter Sunday; April 14 Pan-American Day; May 1 Labor Day; July 16 Foundation of Sociedad la Trinitaria; August 16 Restoration Day; September 24 Our Lady of Mercedes; October 12 Columbus Day; October 24 United Nations Day; November 1 All Saints' Day; and December 25 Christmas.

Hospitals -- Medical care is limited, especially outside Santo Domingo, and the quality of care varies widely among facilities. There is an emergency 911 service within Santo Domingo, but its reliability is questionable. Outside the capital, emergency services range from extremely limited to nonexistent. Blood supplies at both public and private hospitals are often limited, and not all facilities have blood on hand, even for emergencies. Many medical facilities throughout the country do not have staff members who speak or understand English. A private nationwide ambulance service, Movi-med, operates in Santo Domingo, Santiago, Puerto Plata, and La Romana; its telephone number is tel. 809/532-0000 in Santo Domingo and tel. 1/200-0911 outside Santo Domingo. Movi-med expects full payment at the time of transport.

Legal Aid -- Getting into legal trouble in the D.R. is to be avoided at all costs. You wouldn't even want to go near a local jail. You can be jailed for the possession of such drugs as marijuana and cocaine. If you're arrested for possession, try to contact your embassy -- although many countries do not have embassies in the D.R. (visit http://embassy.goabroad.com to see if your country is represented). Your hotel may be of help in getting you connected with a lawyer licensed to practice in the D.R. There are no private agencies to appeal to.

Mail -- A disaster! It's recommended that you not rely on D.R. postal services unless absolutely necessary. It is estimated that the chance of your letter reaching its intended destination is about 50%. International courier services such as United Parcel Service or Federal Express are the way to go.

Pharmacies -- If you're on medication, it's best to bring an adequate supply with you. Don't always count on the local pharmacy being able to fill your prescription.

Police -- Dial 911 in an emergency. If you've lost something or you've been robbed, chances are in a poverty-stricken country you'll never recover your valuables. Stay alert. Be on guard. Never leave any item such as a camera or cellphone unattended on the beach.

Taxes -- A departure tax of US$10 is assessed and must be paid in U.S. currency. The government imposes a 13% tax on hotel rooms, which is usually topped by an automatic 10% service charge, bringing the total tax to staggering heights. A 12% sales tax on food and drink is assessed.

Time -- Atlantic Standard Time is observed year-round. Between November and March, when it's noon in New York and Miami, it's 1pm in Santo Domingo. However, during U.S. daylight saving time, it's the same time in the Dominican Republic and the U.S. East Coast.

Tipping -- Most restaurants and hotels add a 10% service charge to your check. Most people usually add 5% to 10% more, especially if the service has been good.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars or heavily visited areas may reserve their toilets for patrons. Note: You can't enter the precincts of an all-inclusive hotel unless you're a guest.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559.

Visitor Information -- In the United States, you can contact the Dominican Republic Tourist Information Center at 136 E. 57th St., Ste. 803, New York, NY 10022 (tel. 888/374-6361 or 212/588-1012); or 848 Brickell Ave., Ste. 405, Miami, FL 33131 (tel. 888/358-9594 or 305/358-2899; fax 305/358-4185). In Canada, try the office at 2080 Crescent St., Montreal, Quebec H3G 2B8, Canada (tel. 800/563-1611 or 514/499-1918; fax 514/499-1393); or at 26 Wellington St. E., Ste. 201, Unit 53, Toronto, Ontario M5E 1S2, Canada (tel. 888/494-5050 or 416/361-2126; fax 416/361-2130). Don't expect too many specifics.

In England, there's an office at 20 Hand Court, High Holborn, WC1V 6JF (tel. 020/7242-7778).

On the Web, check out www.godominicanrepublic.com.

Water -- Stick to bottled water.

Weather -- The average temperature is 77°F (25°C). August is the warmest month and January the coolest month, although, even then, it's warm enough to swim.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry requirements can and do change, so the savvy visitor should check with the nearest Dominican embassy or consulate at least 6 weeks prior to departure. As of January 1, 2008, all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean by land or sea are required to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by the local Department of Homeland Security. This passport requirement applies to the Dominican Republic. Upon arrival at their port of entry, visitors must also purchase a RD$333 tourist card to enter. Keep the receipt. Otherwise, you'll have to pay the fee again upon your departure from the D.R. The tourist card is valid for 90 days from the date of its issue. If you wish to stay more than that, you have to apply for another tourist card 2 weeks before your present one expires.

Before leaving home, make two copies of your documents -- including your passport and your driver's license, your airline ticket, and any hotel vouchers -- bring a copy and leave the other home with someone.

Passports

For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Passports" Web page of the U.S. State Department at www.travel.state.gov.

Visas

Visas are not needed by U.S., Canadian, Irish, Australian, New Zealand, or British citizens for visits of less than 90 days.

Customs

What You Can Bring into the D.R. -- Just before you leave home, check with your country's Customs or Foreign Affairs department for the latest guidelines -- including information on items that are not allowed to be brought into your home country, since the rules are subject to change and often contain some surprising oddities.

Customs allows you to bring in 1 liter of alcohol, plus 200 cigarettes and gift articles not exceeding a value of US$100. Anything over that limit is subject to import taxes.

What You Can Take Home from the D.R. -- U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go"), or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 02920/501-261 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the D.R.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Since most of their needs are taken care of in the all-inclusive resorts, seniors form a large part of the patronage at the resorts of Punta Cana and Playa Dorada. Casa de Campo at La Romana is one of the most preferred destinations in the Caribbean for the senior traveler.

One of the benefits of age is that travel often costs less. Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry some kind of ID, such as a driver's license, if you've kept your youthful glow. Also, mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals, plus AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter.

Arm yourself with whatever information you can before you go, as there is no local agency catering to senior travel.

Tips for Families

It's always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling with children in today's world. For changing details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, keep up to date by going to the U.S. Department of State website: http://travel.state.gov. To prevent international child abduction, E.U. governments have initiated procedures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. All children must have their own passport. To obtain a passport, the child must be present -- that is, in person -- at the center issuing the passport. Both parents must be present as well. If not, then a notarized statement from the parents is required. Any questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling the National Passport Information Center at tel. 877/487-2778 Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm Eastern Standard Time.

When to Go

High season in the Dominican Republic is from mid-December to mid-April. The weather is perfect for beach conditions, in that it's usually dry, and the temperatures are moderated by cooling trade winds blowing in from the northeast. Sometimes a few days can be windy under cloudy skies, but these periods often come and go quickly. April may be the most idyllic month, with perfect weather before the heat of summer comes in May. In spite of the heat, many Europeans prefer a summer visit.

Rainy season is from late May until late November. That doesn't mean, however, that it rains every day. Often the showers come in short bursts, followed by clear skies and plenty of sun.

If you want to know how to pack just before you go, check the Weather Channel's online 5-day forecast at www.weather.com for the latest information.

Hurricanes -- The curse of Dominican weather, the hurricane season, lasts -- officially, at least -- from June 1 to November 30. But there's no cause for panic; satellite forecasts give enough warning that precautions can be taken.

Getting Around

Getting around the Dominican Republic is not always easy if your hotel is in a remote location. The most convenient modes of transport are shuttle flights, taxis, rental cars, públicos (multi-passenger taxis), and guaguas (public buses).

By Plane

The quickest and easiest way to get across a difficult landscape is on one of the shuttle flights offered by Air Century (tel. 809/826-4222; www.aircentury.com), flying from Santo Domingo to Puerto Plata, Punta Cana, La Romana, Samaná, and Santiago, among other towns. The only catch is that flights are not regularly scheduled, but depend on demand. The airline operates 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

By Rental Car

The best way to see the Dominican Republic is to drive. Note: Motorists drive on the right here. Although major highways are relatively smooth, the country's secondary roads, especially those in the east, are riddled with potholes and ruts. Roads also tend to be badly lit and poorly marked in both the city and the countryside. Drive carefully and give yourself plenty of time when traveling between island destinations. Watch out for policemen who may flag you down and accuse you (often wrongly) of some infraction. Many locals give these low-paid policemen a RD$100 regalo, or gift "for your children," and are then free to go.

The high accident and theft rate in recent years has helped to raise car-rental rates here. Prices vary, so call around for last-minute quotes. Make sure you understand your insurance coverage (or lack thereof) before you leave home. Your credit card issuer may already provide you with this type of insurance; call to find out.

For reservations and more information, call the rental companies at least a week before your departure: Avis (tel. 800/331-1084 in the U.S., or 809/535-7191; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S., or 809/549-0351; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S., or 809/221-5333; www.hertz.com) all operate in the Dominican Republic. All three have offices at the Santo Domingo and Puerto Plata airports, as well as in downtown Santo Domingo. Avis and Hertz also have offices in La Romana and Santiago, and Avis has one in Punta Cana.

Although the cars may not be as well maintained as those of the big three above, you can often get a cheaper deal at one of the local firms, notably MCAUTO Rental Cars (tel. 809/688-6518). If you want a car with seat belts, you must ask. Your Canadian or American driver's license is suitable documentation, along with a valid credit card or a substantial cash deposit.

Maps -- Maps of the Dominican Republic are not of good quality for the most part. However, unless you're planning to make detailed visits to remote areas (highly unlikely), you won't need the type of Michelin maps available in, say, France. The D.R. government distributes free maps to visitors, and they are available at airport terminals upon your arrival, at hotels, tourist offices, and other places frequented by visitors. They are called Mapas Turísticos, and they highlight not only Santo Domingo but all the major resorts covered in this guide, including Puerto Plata, Samaná/Las Terrenas, Punta Cana/Bávaro, and La Romana/Bayahibe.

Unless you're planning specialty travel, these detailed regional maps should suffice. On one side is a general overview map of the D.R. itself, where you can determine the location of your resort in the country as a whole. For motorists, the overview map also highlights the major routes of access to your resort.

By Public Transportation

Públicos are unmetered multi-passenger taxis that travel along main thoroughfares, stopping often to pick up people waving from the side of the street. A público is marked by a white seal on the front door. You must tell the driver your destination when you're picked up to make sure the público is going there. A ride is usually RD$20.

Public buses, often in the form of minivans or panel trucks, are called guaguas (pronounced "gwa-gwas"). For about RD$10 to RD$15, they provide the same service as públicos, but they're generally more crowded. Larger buses provide service outside the towns. Beware of pickpockets onboard.

Warning: Don't get into an unmarked street taxi. Many visitors, particularly in Santo Domingo, have been assaulted and robbed by doing just that. The minimum fare within Santo Domingo is RD$150. In Santo Domingo, the most reliable taxi company is Tecni-Taxi (tel. 809/567-2010). In Puerto Plata, call Tecni-Taxi at tel. 809/320-7621.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although homosexuality is not technically legal in the D.R., a staunchly Catholic country, it is more prevalent in the D.R. than anywhere else in the Caribbean, with the possible exception of Cuba, where many young men and women have turned to prostitution, especially in Havana. Hundreds of men are bisexual in the D.R., and many young men are available on a "gay-for-pay" basis, even though they may have a wife and children waiting for them at home. Sex tourism, even that involving minors, is on the rise in the D.R. and has even made headlines in the New York Times.

There isn't much of a gay bar scene outside of Santo Domingo, but cruising is evident everywhere, especially in the regular bars, on the beaches, and along the various malecón (seafront) promenades at night.

Nearly all D.R. hotels welcome gay and lesbian clients. Same-sex couples seeking to share a room together should encounter no problem anywhere in the D.R. Discretion, however, is the word. Holding hands or kissing in public will be frowned upon and may invite at least verbal abuse, and dozens of cases of gay bashing are reported yearly.

Since there are no local agencies offering information or services to gay and lesbian travelers contemplating a holiday in the D.R., here are some general groups to contact for more information.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.aboveandbeyondtoursllc.com) are gay Australian tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

The Canadian website gaytravel.com offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Money

In general the Dominican Republic is one of the most affordable destinations in the Caribbean -- hence, its great popularity.

The catch is to plan a vacation way in advance. If you just show up, you'll be charged the "rack rate," and some of these deals can be expensive. However, if you book at an all-inclusive resort, with a package that includes both airfare and accommodations, you can live at a rather moderate per-diem cost, even though staying at a government-rated four- or five-star hotel. Many of these package deals, offered even in winter, can amount to as little as RD$2,100 per person per day.

Even if you do arrive independently, you can often find lodgings -- and rather decent ones at that -- for as little as RD$1,000 a night in a double room. Many meals cost only RD$350 if you avoid expensive items such as lobster or steak.

Cigars are plentiful and cheap, especially if you stick to those made in the D.R. Cuban cigars are still moderate in price here compared to most of the world. However, if you purchase a Cuban cigar, smoke it in the D.R. Americans are not allowed to bring Cuban cigars back to the United States.

If you're watching your pesos, stick to such national drinks as rum or the local beer, El Presidente. If money is no object, all the first-class hotels and bars sell expensive imported liquor, such as Scotch. The high import taxes hoteliers or bars pay are reflected in the price of your drink.

Heads-Up: A Note on Pricing -- Nearly all hotels in the Dominican Republic list their rates in U.S. dollars, while most restaurants and shops deal with both U.S. and Dominican currencies. Accordingly, our hotel listings will reflect only U.S. dollar prices, while our restaurant listings will quote Dominican peso prices -- that is, if the establishments quote in pesos. Many establishments in popular resorts quote prices only in U.S. dollars.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad.

Traveler's Checks

Although there are ATMs at most banks in the D.R., and at other locations as well, some prudent travelers still carry traveler's checks for emergencies in case there is some malfunction with their ATM cards, which can happen anywhere in the world. Hotels, of course, accept traveler's checks as they would American dollars. You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee), Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee, for checks up to $1,500, at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378), and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $15. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

ATMs

ATMs are linked to a huge network that, most likely, includes your bank at home. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) are the two most popular networks. ATMs are available in Santo Domingo and throughout the principal tourist resorts of the D.R., including Punta Cana, Puerto Plata, and La Romana. Note: If you journey into the more remote areas of the country, they are not only far less plentiful but may not exist at all.

Be sure to check the daily withdrawal limit before you depart, and ask whether you need a new personal identification number (PIN). Warning: The use of ATMs should be minimized as a means of avoiding theft or misuse. One local ATM fraud involves sticking photographic film or pieces of paper in the card feeder of the ATM so that an inserted card becomes jammed. Once the card owner has concluded that the card is irretrievable, the thieves extract both the jamming material and the card, which they then use illegally.

Cash

It's always a good idea to carry around some cash for small expenses, like cab rides, or for that rare occasion when a restaurant or small shop doesn't take plastic, which can happen if you're dining at a neighborhood joint or buying from a small vendor. U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere. Perhaps $100 in cash (small bills) will see you through.

The Dominican Peso, the U.S. & Canadian Dollars & the British Pound -- At press time, the prevailing exchange rate between the peso and the most frequently traded currency, the U.S. dollar, was RD$37 = $1 US. (Inversely stated, that means that 1 peso = approximately 2.6 US cents.) Euros, British pounds, and Canadian dollars are less frequently traded, and in most cases, are accepted only at banks and at very large hotels. Just before writing, 1€ was the monetary equivalent of RD$56; £1 was the equivalent of RD$63, and C$1 was the equivalent of RD$40. For the occasional denizen of Australia and New Zealand who might want to trade their national currencies on-site in the D.R., the Australian dollar, at press time, traded at RD$41, and the New Zealand dollar traded at RD$30.

Remember that currency conversion rates can and will change, as reflected by a complicated roster of political and economic factors, so check the rates from time to time as a means of staying abreast of the cost of your holiday.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Other than an upset stomach or sunburn, most travelers to the D.R. don't experience difficulties with their health. However, before winging your way to the island, you should be aware of some health risks. Most visitors at some point come down with at least a mild case of diarrhea, the número uno illness for D.R. travelers.

Travelers to rural areas of the island, especially the provinces bordering Haiti, are at risk for malaria. There is little risk, however, if you stay in the major resort areas such as Playa Dorada or Punta Cana.

Another plague, schistosomiasis, is a parasitic infection found in fresh water in parts of the D.R. Don't go swimming in freshwater rivers. Hepatitis B is also commonplace in the D.R.

To find out about current U.S. Department of State travel warnings about the D.R. or the Caribbean in general, check http://travel.state.gov.

Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Finding a good doctor in the Dominican Republic can be a problem once you leave Santo Domingo and the big resorts such as those at Playa Dorada or Punta Cana. You should be in fairly good health before venturing into the hinterlands. However, most doctors, once you get one, have been educated in the United States and speak English.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety.

Warning: Malaria Alert

The Centers for Disease Control currently posts a malaria warning for parts of the D.R., especially for the resort areas in Altagracia province. That's the southeastern part of the island country. It is recommended that all travelers to the area, including infants and children, begin taking antimalarial drugs before arriving on island. Chances are you, like thousands of other visitors, will be fine, but why chance it?

Crime & Safety

Foreigners should review their security practices and maintain a low profile. Protests, demonstrations, and general strikes occur periodically. These disturbances have the potential to turn violent, with participants rioting and erecting roadblocks. In the past, police have used deadly force in response to violent protests. Although these events are not targeted at foreigners, it is advisable to exercise caution when traveling throughout the country. In urban areas, travel should be conducted on main routes whenever possible. Street crowds should be avoided. Additional advice about strikes and other security issues in the Dominican Republic may be obtained from the U.S. Embassy in Santo Domingo or by visiting the embassy's website at http://santodomingo.usembassy.gov.

Petty street crime involving tourists does occur, and normal precautions should be taken. Visitors walking the streets should always be aware of their surroundings to avoid becoming victims of crime. Valuables left unattended in parked automobiles, on beaches, and in other public places are vulnerable to theft. Cellphones should be carried in a pocket, rather than on a belt or in a purse. One increasingly common method of street robbery is for a person or persons on a moped (often coasting with the engine turned off so as not to draw attention) to approach a pedestrian, grab the cellphone, purse, or backpack, and then speed away.

Passengers in private taxis (known locally as públicos) are frequently the victims of robbery. In some instances, the taxi drivers themselves have been known to rob riders. We know at least one American passenger on a motoconcho (motorcycle taxi) has been robbed by the driver. Sometimes crooked taxi drivers will turn down a dangerous street where a robber will jump into the car and steal a victim's wallet or purse. The taxi driver himself might have set up the robbery in advance, perhaps with, say, his brother-in-law. Visitors to the Dominican Republic are strongly advised to take only hotel taxis or taxis operated by services whose cabs are ordered in advance by phone and can subsequently be identified and tracked.

The overall level of crime tends to rise during the Christmas season, and visitors to the Dominican Republic should take extra precautions when visiting the country between November and January.

Note: Men traveling alone here will find themselves solicited more often by prostitutes than anywhere else in the Caribbean. Prostitutes are at their most visible and aggressive in such relatively unmonitored tourist zones as Cabarete and within the bars and lounges of most of the deluxe hotels of Santo Domingo, especially the Jaragua.

Package Deals

Escorted tours almost don't exist, and special-interest trips beyond eco-tours are rare. Nearly every visitor seems to arrive on some package deal. For value-conscious travelers, packages are the smart way to go because they can save you a ton of money. Especially in the Dominican Republic, package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. You'll be on your own, but in most cases, a package will include airfare, hotel, and transportation to and from the airport -- and it may cost you less than just the hotel alone if you booked it yourself. A package deal might not be for you if you want to stay in a more intimate inn or guesthouse, but if you like resorts, read on.

You'll find an amazing array of packages. Some packages offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, and others book charters.

Before booking a charter flight, be aware of the downside. These flights are less frequent than the major airlines and may be canceled at the last minute for some reason. Refunds are much harder to acquire should the need arise. Expect off-hour departure times. Once you arrive at your destination, baggage claim is often a much slower process. Some charter outfitters have also gone bankrupt, leaving passengers stranded at a destination. Remember to comparison-shop among at least three different operators, and always compare apples to apples.

Most land-and-air packages include meals, and you'll find yourself locked into your hotel dining room every night if your meals are prepaid. Most of the all-inclusive resorts in the D.R. break this monotony by offering a series of different restaurants, ranging from Italian to Chinese, under one roof.

If you're seeking a more varied dining experience, avoid, if you can, AP (American Plan), which means full board, and opt for MAP (Modified American Plan), meaning breakfast and either lunch or dinner. That way, you'll at least be free for one main meal of the day and can sample a variety of the island's regional fare. However, this is often difficult to arrange since most of the major resort hotels in the D.R. book guests on the all-inclusive plan that includes lunch. At certain key times of the year, especially over the long Christmas and New Year's season, AP may be mandatory.

The best place to start your search is the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Also check the ads in national travel magazines like Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel, National Geographic Traveler, and Travel Holiday.

Liberty Travel (tel. 888/271-1584; www.libertytravel.com) is one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, and it usually boasts a full-page ad in Sunday papers.

Another good resource is the airlines themselves, which often package their flights together with accommodations; another good choice is American Express Travel (tel. 800/335-3342; www.americanexpress.com). Among the airline packagers, your options include American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com) and US Airways Vacations (tel. 800/455-0123; www.usairwaysvacations.com). American usually has the widest variety of offerings because it's the major carrier to the region.

The biggest hotel chains and resorts also offer package deals. If you already know where you want to stay, call the resort itself and ask if it offers land/air packages.

To save time comparing the prices and value of all the package tours out there, contact TourScan, Inc. (tel. 800/962-2080; www.tourscan.com). Every season, the company computerizes the contents of travel brochures that contain about 10,000 different vacations at 1,600 hotels in the Caribbean, including the Dominican Republic. TourScan selects the best-value vacation at each hotel and condo. Two catalogs are printed each year, which list a choice of hotels.

Some of the leading North American tour operators still featuring tours include Apple Vacations (tel. 800/517-2000; www.applevacations.com), focusing on package vacations from Boston to Puerto Plata, Punta Cana, Santo Domingo, and La Romana.

Travel Agents

Travel agents can save you time and money by uncovering the best package deals, airfare, and rental-car rates. Most are professional, but the occasional unscrupulous agent may push deals that bag the juiciest commissions, so shop around and ask hard questions. Arm yourself with the information in this guide, and don't let anyone pressure you into a vacation that's not right for you.

If you enlist a travel agent, use one that's a member of the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA), 1101 King St., Ste. 200, Alexandria, VA 22314 (tel. 703/739-2782; www.astanet.com). Call ASTA or visit their website for a list of members in your area.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

After decades of trashing its environment, the Dominican Republic is becoming more environmentally responsible. The signs are everywhere, even at the Punta Cana airport, which uses native materials and has an open-air feeling with tropical birds darting through the rafters.

The country today boasts 16 national parks and 67 protected areas within its borders. It's a land of white sandy beaches, forests with dense growth, and towering mountains. With its rich flora and fauna, it is a popular spot for eco-minded visitors.

There are no official campgrounds within the reserves. To visit one of the national parks, eco-adventurers have to secure permission. To camp in one of the parks, a regular pass costing RD$50 must be obtained at local park offices or through the national office at Avenida Máximo Gómez, Apartado Postal 2487 in Santo Domingo (tel. 809/472-4202).

Another way to go for the independent eco-traveler is to seek hostel-style campgrounds located in areas close to natural attractions. These cost as little as US$8 to pitch your own tent. Cottages and cabins are also available close to the national parks and protected areas. These eco-type hotels rent rooms for as little as US$40 a night or US$115 for a room and full meals.

But let's not paint too rosy a picture. Rapid development, the most expansive in the Caribbean, threatens the environment and the island's natural beauty. Once the D.R. was the front-runner in the Caribbean with its lush rainforests. Some 1,500 species were found only here. But to make way for development, swamps were drained and trees cut down. Today, the D.R. has less than 15% of its original forest cover remaining. Even so, it's a lot better than Haiti, which shares the island of Hispaniola with the D.R. Haiti has been almost entirely deforested because of the pressures of poverty.

One of the latest efforts to promote sustainable tourism is through the eco-initiative of coffee production called La Ruta Del Café; the project operates in the towns of Salcedo and Bonao. Visitors come here to see the process of coffee production and discover unique pathways into the tropical forests.

For more specific adventures in the D.R., several outfitters can hook you up with eco- and adventure activities; ask at your hotel desk for local contacts. The major activities include mountain biking, surfing, whale-watching, white-water rafting, bird-watching, canyoning, hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, jeep safaris, island exploring, and rock climbing. For a general preview of these activities, refer to www.godominicanrepublic.com. Dominican Eco-Tours (www.dominicanecotours.com) offers a number of adventure tours on island, including hiking, river rafting, mountain biking, scuba diving, and river tubing. Some of the best adventures are offered by Iguana Mama (tel. 809/571-0734; www.iguanamama.com), featuring mountain biking, hiking, canyoning, mule treks, and cultural tours.

Staying Connected

Even within the most idyllic settings, workaholics and the compulsively curious sometimes get itchy for news and connectivity with the outside world. For techmeisters who want to maintain their e-routines while they're away from their home and office, here are some basics.

Cellphones

The Dominican Republic is home to a higher percentage, per capita, of cellphones than most other countries in Latin America, with over 7.8 million cellphones connected within a population of around 10 million. Most U.S-based cellphones (including those on plans sponsored by both AT&T and Verizon) will work seamlessly within the D.R., but it's best to check with your provider for questions about rates and roaming charges. If you don't presently own a compatible cellphone, www.travelcell.com will rent you one and ship it to you in advance of your departure for a rental fee of around $30 a week, and with incoming calls priced at $1.49 a minute, and with outgoing calls priced at between $1.79 and $1.99 a minute, depending on the destination. They'll usually require a deposit of $125, refundable when you return the phone.

Internet & E-Mail

Virtually every resort in the D.R. offers Wi-Fi hotspots either throughout their premises or in designated areas. It's always wise to bring a spare Ethernet cable in the event you find a hard-wire plug-in that will accept it. Our reviews of resorts and hotels mention Wi-Fi availability and fees where applicable. You may also find establishments promoting themselves as cybercafes, but they tend to be overcrowded and noisy, with lots of other devices competing for the sometimes limited bandwidth available within.

Telephones

Calling the D.R. -- You place calls to or from the Dominican Republic just as you would from any other area code in the U.S. or Canada, usually by dialing 1 and then the area code and then the seven-digit local number. The area code for the Dominican Republic is 809.

Calling the U.S. and Canada from inside the Dominican Republic:With the understanding that your hotel or guesthouse might require additional dialing rituals of its own, dial 011 (this is the international prefix to dial outside of the Dominican Republic). Then dial 1 (this is the international code used to dial the U.S. or Canada). Follow that by the area code and the local seven-digit phone number. To call other countries, dial 011, then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the city or area code, and then the local number. If in doubt, ask the hotel operator or call AT&T Direct, MCI, or Sprint. Note: Even though U.S.-based toll-free numbers are usually free when dialed direct, your local hotel might tack on additional service charges. If in doubt, ask your hotel operator.

Getting There

Most visitors arrive in the Dominican Republic as part of a package deal that includes airfare. Travel agencies will inform you of the best deals, land-and-air packages that cut costs substantially. At slow periods of the year, this package deal is tantamount to a giveaway.

Most flights into the country are routed through Miami (flight time from Miami to Santo Domingo is 1 3/4 hr.). Flying time from New York is 4 hours, and only 30 minutes from San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Most charter flights from Canada originate out of Toronto, taking 4 1/2 hours to reach the D.R. From many cities in western Europe, flying time to Santo Domingo ranges from 8 to 10 hours.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) offers the most frequent service -- at least a dozen flights daily from cities throughout North America to either Santo Domingo or Puerto Plata. Flights from hubs like New York, Miami, or San Juan are usually nonstop. American also offers some good package deals.

If you're heading to one of the Dominican Republic's smaller airports, your best bet is to catch a connecting flight with American Eagle, American's local commuter carrier. Its small planes depart every day from San Juan for airports throughout the Dominican Republic, including Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata, La Romana, and Punta Cana.

US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015; www.usairways.com) flies daily from Philadelphia to Santo Domingo. The airline also offers flights from Charlotte, North Carolina, to Punta Cana on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.

JetBlue Airlines (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com) flies from New York City and Orlando to Santo Domingo.

US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015; www.usairways.com) also flies from New York to the island. In addition, Delta Airlines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) flies from both New York and Miami to the Dominican Republic.

Spirit Airlines (tel. 800/772-7117; www.spiritair.com) flies from New York's La Guardia to Santo Domingo and Punta Cana and also has flights from Atlanta, Atlantic City, Chicago, Detroit, Fort Lauderdale, Providence (Rhode Island), Washington D.C., Myrtle Beach (South Carolina), Boston, Tampa, Orlando, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas.

Iberia (tel. 800/772-4642 in the U.S.; www.iberia.com) offers daily flights from Madrid to Santo Domingo, making a brief stop in San Juan.

Warning: Arriving at Santo Domingo's Las Américas International Airport is confusing and chaotic. Customs officials, who tend to be rude and overworked, may give you a very thorough check. Stolen luggage is not uncommon here; beware of "porters" who offer to help with your bags.

Traveler Beware: The Uneasy Border Between Haiti & the D.R.

The troubled land of Haiti shares the island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic. Many residents of the D.R., mired in poverty, flee their homeland every year, risking dangerous sea voyages on rickety boats to the nearby U.S. territory of Puerto Rico. Once there, they can eventually make their way to the mainland of the U.S. and perhaps a more prosperous life.

To Haitians, mired in even greater poverty, the D.R. can appear like the promised land. The poorly patrolled border between the D.R. and Haiti has long been a source of conflict and even attacks and counterattacks.

The most notorious blood bath occurred in 1937 when the dictator Gen. Rafael Trujillo ordered that the D.R. be "cleansed" of Haitians. Soldiers and citizens alike slaughtered at least 20,000 Haitians, most of them sugar workers. The aptly named Massacre River along the two countries literally flowed with blood.

Conflicts are still raging in the post-millennium era. As late as 2005, some Haitians were beheaded by machetes. Dominicans have been known to go on a rampage, burning dozens of shacks in Haitian ghettos on D.R. soil. After the earthquake in Haiti, D.R. border guards stepped up patrols to prevent hundreds of homeless Haitians from entering the D.R. But many fleeing refugees slip through anyway.

Since very few visitors ever cross from the D.R. into Haiti by overland route, these dangerous border flare-ups will rarely concern the average visitor. All of the major D.R. resorts are far removed from the dangerous border.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year's Eve -- No place is more fun to be in the Caribbean than Santo Domingo on New Year's Eve. Thousands of merrymakers gather along the Malecón (actually Av. George Washington) to celebrate the coming year. Along this sea-bordering boulevard, bands blast merengue and other music throughout the night. At midnight, fireworks explode and sirens go off. The party continues until daybreak.

New Year's Day -- The merrymaking continues on New Year's Day in the town of Bayaguana, lying northeast of Santo Domingo. Here the annual Festivales del Santo Cristo de Bayaguana includes street dancing, singing, various folkloric activities, a procession through town, and the inevitable Mass.

Epifanía -- Also called Día de los Santos Reyes, this nationwide event is celebrated throughout the Dominican Republic. Every town and village marks the end of the Christmas holidays. Santo Domingo has the most interesting observances, with processions through town starring the Three Wise Men. As they sleep, children are given gifts by their parents. January 6.

Día de Duarte -- Juan Pablo Duarte is hailed as the father of the Dominican Republic. Duarte executed a bloodless coup against Haiti, asserting his country's independence over their western neighbor. The date was February 27, 1844. Duarte's birthday, on January 26, 1814, is celebrated with gun salutes in Santo Domingo. A Carnival is staged in such cities as Santiago, Samaná, San Pedro de Macorís, and La Romana. January 26.

February

Carnival -- This is the biggest event on the Dominican calendar, and it's widely celebrated preceding and including Independence Day, February 27, which often falls around Lent. In Santo Domingo, the big event is 2 or 3 days before February 27, but festivities range around the country in all the towns and cities. Expect spectacular floats, flamboyantly costumed performers, and lots of street dancing, rum drinking, and street food. The masks worn by the participants symbolize good and evil. Some 30,000 merrymakers parade along the Malecón in Santo Domingo.

April

Semana Santa -- This observance of Holy Week hardly rivals Seville's in Spain, but it's the best in the Western Hemisphere. The week surrounding Easter is marked by island-wide pageants, processions, and celebrations. Many towns and cities burn in effigy a grotesque representation of Judas Iscariot.

June

Espíritu Santo -- The island's African heritage is much in evidence during this observance. Although an island-wide event, the most intriguing celebrations take place in the town of Villa Mella near Santo Domingo. The festivities are marked by the playing of African instruments such as Congo drums. First or second week of June.

July

Festival del Merengue -- Slightly less raucous than Carnival, a blast of merengue music fills the night along the Malecón in Santo Domingo the last week of July. Festivities continue into the first week of August, coinciding with the observance of the founding of Santo Domingo on August 4, 1496. Artisan fairs are just part of the agenda, along with a gastronomic festival, but it is the live merengue music that attracts participants by the thousands. The world's top merengue musicians and dancers attend this wildly crazed event.

August

Fiesta Patria de la Restauración -- Restoration Day is celebrated on August 16 island-wide, commemorating the regaining of Dominican Republic independence from Spain in 1863. Parades, live music, street fairs, and other events reach their crescendo in the two main cities of Santo Domingo and Santiago.

October

Puerto Plata Festival -- Like the Merengue Festival, this is the major cultural event on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic, a weeklong festival that brings the best of bands -- merengue, blues, jazz, and folk concerts -- to Fuerte San Felipe at the end of the Malecón. Troupes from all over the island come here to perform traditional songs and dances, along with salsa, merengue steps, and African spirituals. Expect parades, costumes, and food fairs. In October, but dates vary.

Descubrimiento de América -- The so-called "discovery" by Columbus of America on October 12, 1492, is no longer celebrated as a grand event in many parts of the Western Hemisphere. The explorer's arrival on an already inhabited continent brought death, destruction, and disease to much of the Caribbean. But because of the D.R.'s strong link to Spain, the festivities in Santo Domingo continue, and reach their peak with celebrations at the tomb of the explorer at Faro a Colón and at the Cathedral of Santo Domingo.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

The Dominican Republic has done little to open up exploration of their island by persons with disabilities. Getting around the country with its potholed roads is hard enough on a healthy visitor with perfect mobility. A pole-vaulter might find it difficult walking in traffic in Santo Domingo. Your best bet is to work through a travel agent to find a resort hotel suitable for a visit by persons with disabilities. Suitable rooms and grounds are more likely to be found at Playa Dorada or Punta Cana than elsewhere.

Even so, a disability shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more resources out there today than ever before. However, there are no agencies to turn to once you're in the D.R. If you're seeking information before you go, you'll have to rely on general organizations.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/225-5667; www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), and the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). Air Ambulance Card (www.airambulancecard.com) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273; www.avis.com) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for elderly people or those with disabilities.

Regions in Brief

Santo Domingo

Originally called Nueva Isabela and at one time, Ciudad Trujillo (named after the despised dictator), the capital of the Dominican Republic was founded in 1496 by Bartolomé, the brother of Columbus. Today, Santo Domingo is a thriving and sprawling metropolis of some 2.5 million people.

One of the fastest-growing cities in the Caribbean, it still retains much of its Spanish flavor in its Colonial Zone. Other than San Juan, Puerto Rico, it also offers the largest concentration of museums in the Caribbean. What it doesn't have is a beach. So, come here for sightseeing and shopping, but for the sands head to Boca Chica and Juan Dolio . These, however, are not the best resorts in the D.R. For those you'll have to go elsewhere. Our suggestion is to spend 2 days in the D.R. capital and then the rest of your vacation time at a resort of your choice. A preview of the major possibilities will follow.

Boca Chica & Juan Dolio

To the immediate east of Santo Domingo, these twin beach resorts open onto one of the most beautiful stretches of beaches on the east coast, known for their powdery white sands and shallow waters, safe for swimming. Fun in the sun begins approximately 31km (19 miles) east of Santo Domingo, but only a 5-minute drive from Las Américas International Airport, serving Santo Domingo. Many Europeans call the area "Playa St. Tropez," as it evokes the fun-loving port on the French Riviera. But even with its hordes of visitors, St. Tropez is still chic. Juan Dolio and Boca Chica are most definitely not chic. Lying immediately east of Boca Chica, the fast-rising Juan Dolio boasts even more hotels than Boca Chica, most of them all-inclusive.

Boca Chica had its golden age during the heyday of dictator Trujillo. Wealthy residents built vacation homes here and used it as a weekend escape. This allure lasted until the 1970s when rising resorts, especially Playa Dorada in the north, threatened the popularity of Boca Chica.

Today Boca Chica has lost much of its allure, even though the great beachfront is still here. It's filled with rather lackluster hotels offering some of the cheapest package deals in the Caribbean in winter.

Playa Boca Chica, as lovely as it is, is one of the most overrun in the D.R. Instead of tranquility, you will often hear the blasting sounds of merengue and mariachi bands. Restaurants and bars have become very touristy, and on weekends the scene takes on a bit of madness, as thousands of residents of Santo Domingo descend on the beach, placing a heavy burden on the limited facilities. Prostitution, both male and female, is clearly evident.

As for Juan Dolio, you could skip it completely and not suffer great deprivation. It is more a tourist development by the sea instead of a real town. The beach here stretches for 5km (3 miles) and the many hotels and resorts are among the worst in the D.R.

Many of these date from the 1980s when a building boom occurred here. However, after September 11, 2001 there was a great falloff in business. Because it doesn't have the allure of other emerging resorts in the D.R., many of these hotels have closed or else look as if they haven't made any improvements since Ronald Reagan was president of the United States. Our advice: Skip it and head for golden sands elsewhere. However, if, because of time restrictions, you are based in Santo Domingo and want to slip in some beach time, head to Boca Chica over Juan Dolio.

La Romana/Bayahibe

These twin resorts, so different in character, lie east of Santo Domingo along the southeastern coast, a 2-hour drive from Santo Domingo, although you can fly to the area's small airport as well. Compared to the overbuilt Punta Cana, a virtual Miami Beach strip of hotels, La Romana and Bayahibe are very different.

La Romana is dominated by one resort, Casa de Campo, one of the grandest in the Caribbean. With its deluxe hotel rooms and private villas, plus two Pete Dye-designed golf courses, the 2,800-hectare (7,000-acre) Casa de Campo is reason enough for many visitors to fly to the D.R. in the first place. It is a destination unto itself.

Casa de Campo remains the dowager of D.R. resorts, although it has been supplanted by newer, more cutting-edge resorts such as those at Punta Cana. Casa de Campo still retains a loyal clientele and wins new converts every year.

Casa de Campo also lies next to the single greatest tourist attraction of the D.R., Altos de Chavón, the re-creation of a 16th-century Spanish village that is amazingly realistic. It's part museum, part artisans' colony. It's also a great place to go on a shopping expedition, where you can purchase many of the paintings and crafts produced on the spot, including jewelry and macramé.

The actual town of La Romana remains the sleepy backwater it always was. It is almost devoid of tourist attractions and serves mainly as a refueling stop for visitors to the area.

Bayahibe, lying 30km (19 miles) east of La Romana, didn't exist until the late '90s. That's when hotel developers were drawn to its pristine beachfront. The area is just now being developed with some all-inclusive resorts, attracting those who want to explore this part of the D.R. but can't afford the high tariffs of Casa de Campo.

If you select one of the few hotels at Bayahibe, you'd better like it, because you'll be spending a great deal of your time on the grounds or on the beach in front of your hotel.

Go to La Romana or Bayahibe if you want to avoid the crowds flocking to Puerto Plata and Punta Cana. From both La Romana and Bayahibe, you can explore two intriguing offshore islands (Saona and Catalina), both with pristine white sandy beaches and also a national park, Parque Nacional del Este. Some of the beaches in the area, unlike those at Boca Chica, you'll have virtually to yourself.

Punta Cana & Bávaro

This is the Cancun of the D.R. Nowhere in the Caribbean is there such a concentration of resorts, most of them all-inclusive. These resort developments dominate what has come to be known as Costa del Coco or "The Coconut Coast." There are more than 30km (20 miles) of powder-white sandy beaches, among the longest stretches of such beachfront in the world. The beaches edge up to crystal-clear waters, and this coastal land is an upmarket resort, filled with government-rated four- or five-star hotels.

Comparisons with other resorts, particularly Puerto Plata/Playa Dorada in the north, are inevitable. The big difference is that Punta Cana exists just for tourists, whereas the resorts in the north involve you more in Dominican life. Except for hotel staff, chances are you won't be exposed to anybody but other tourists in Punta Cana.

After arriving, you're taken to your hotel in a shuttle bus where you will swim, eat, breathe, and hang out with other tourists, mainly American, Canadian, French, English, Spanish, and Italian, but also from some countries in South America. At the end of your stay, you board a shuttle bus to take you back to the airport.

Bávaro, the name of one of the best beaches in the Caribbean, has come to designate the district north of Punta Cana, site of some of the best all-inclusive resorts in the D.R.

There is far less rain in Punta Cana than at Puerto Plata. Punta Cana's "dry" beaches are wider than those in the north. Staff at hotels in Punta Cana have been moved here -- often away from their families -- from other parts of the country. They are placed into company housing and are eager to escape back to their towns or villages whenever possible. Staff at Puerto Plata have been born in the region and tend to be friendlier and more welcoming than those in the more isolated Punta Cana, many of whom express resentment at being uprooted from home and hearth and sent to an isolated part of the D.R. to serve at the pleasure of the endless stream of visitors.

The infrastructure of Punta Cana is newer and fresher, but local life doesn't exist. Punta Cana is strictly a hedonist's retreat, attracting those who want sun and often sex and don't particularly want to see the natural attractions that exist elsewhere on the island.

But, oh, those beaches and those endless buffets. Don't expect to lose any weight. The food and drink flow.

Puerto Plata & the Amber Coast

The northern shoreline of the Dominican Republic launched massive tourism to the D.R. back when Punta Cana was a lonely beach strip. Its center is Puerto Plata, named "port of silver" by Columbus. The Amber Coast nickname comes from the rich deposits of amber ore discovered along this coast. The waters of the Atlantic wash up on its beaches of golden sand. The tourist development here since the 1980s has been remarkable, and overbuilding is rampant. To the immediate east of Puerto Plata is Playa Dorada, lying about halfway between the Haitian border and Samaná Peninsula. To the immediate east, in Sosúa, is the fast-rising resort of Cabarete, the windsurfing capital of the Caribbean. "It's our Malibu," is what one local told us.

Puerto Plata lies on the more verdant -- and rainier -- north shore of the island. When the rain comes, it arrives suddenly and doesn't last long. Puerto Plata's beaches aren't as wide as those in Punta Cana, but recent improvements have made them better. In 2006, the government dumped tons of sand onto the beaches to replace what was lost to hurricanes.

Unlike Punta Cana, Puerto Plata has an urbanized feel, with an economy based not just on tourism.

Immediately to the east of Puerto Plata is Playa Dorada, the name of one of the best beaches in the D.R. and also a gated compound of resorts, most of them all-inclusive. Here you get all the elements that appeal to visitors -- dance clubs, casinos, golf, a shopping center, restaurants, and bars.

More and more visitors are abandoning the more manicured grounds of Playa Dorada and continuing east to Sosúa, a former Jewish settlement. It had a flourishing sex industry in the 1980s before the onslaught of the AIDS epidemic. The prostitutes are still there, although the sex industry has slowed down considerably.

Visitors who head for Sosúa are attracted to the raffish aura of the town, a lively, vibrant spot, but not the most tranquil retreat in the D.R. Its beach is spectacular, however, over a mile of golden sand set against a backdrop of coconut trees. Sosúa is patronized by an older crowd, mostly North Americans and Europeans.

A much younger and athletic group of visitors heads for Cabarete, even farther to the east of Sosúa. Far less developed than either Sosúa or Puerto Plata, it too opens onto a beautiful beach of white sand fronting a lovely, wide bay. Its windsurfing is not only the best in the Caribbean, but maybe the world.

In the 1990s it was transformed from a fishing village into a tourist town of hotels, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and cafes. At night the bars resound with the music of merengue and salsa, even reggae and reggaeton. It's still a "one-road town" and has none of the elements or the refinements of Playa Dorada or Punta Cana.

Samaná

Of all the resorts recommended in this guide, the towns of the Samaná peninsula in the northeast of the D.R. contain the wildest and most savage landscape of all, with a focus on scuba diving, underwater life, and whale-watching. Its beaches are also the least crowded of all the major D.R. resorts. It is also the remotest destination and the hardest to reach. This peninsula once provided a haven in the 1820s for escaped American slaves. In its national park, Los Haïtises, inscriptions from the early settlers, the Taíno Indians, have been discovered. From January to March (more or less), the humpback whales of the Atlantic Ocean come here to breed and rear their newborn calves. The peninsula stretches for about 50km (30 miles), lying about 120km (75 miles) northeast of Santo Domingo. The terrain consists of lush, forested hills along with banana and coconut plantations. Since the '90s, tourism has begun to take root, centering about Las Terrenas, the town of Samaná, and Las Galeras.

The resorts of Punta Cana will give you a sanitized view of Dominican life. Samaná is the real deal. Except for a few scattered inns and small hotels, major hotel development did not begin here until the post-millennium.

If you go to Samaná within the next few years or so, you'll get a taste of the Caribbean as it used to be.