32km (20 miles) SE of Assen

Drenthe's largest town (pop. 109,000) is a delightful mix of old buildings left over from its village origins and new ones reflecting its prosperity. It has dubbed itself "Vlinderstad" (Butterfly Town), by way of drawing attention to some of the most notable denizens of its large zoo.

Getting There -- Going by train from Assen is not a good way to get to Emmen, because the roundabout ride via Zwolle takes 90 minutes. Buses depart every 20 minutes or so from Assen, but you need to transfer at least once. By car, take N376 east from Assen to Rolde, and then go southeast through scenic country to its intersection with N381; go east on this highway and its continuation, N364, into Emmen.

Visitor Information -- VVV Emmen, Hoofdstraat 22, 7811 EP Emmen (tel. 0591/649-712; www.dasnoudrenthe.nl), is in the center of town. The office is open Monday from 1 to 5:30pm, Tuesday to Friday from 9:30am to 5:30pm, and Saturday from 10am to 4pm.