Planning a trip to Dublin

Orientation

Dublin is divided by the curves of the River Liffey, which empties into the sea at the city’s eastern edge. To the north and south, canals encircle the city center: The Royal Canal arcs across the north and the Grand Canal through the south. Traditionally, the area south of the river has been Dublin’s buzzing, prosperous hub. It still holds most of the best hotels, restaurants, shops, and sights, but the Northside is on the upswing, and hip new bars and hotels give it a trendy edge.

Dublin is compact and easily walked in an hour. In fact, a 45-minute walk from peaceful St. Stephen’s Green, up bustling Grafton Street, and across the Liffey to the top of O’Connell Street offers a good overview of the city’s prosperous present and troubled past.

The most interesting suburban towns tend to be along Dublin Bay -- these include (heading north along the bay) Drumcondra, Glasnevin, Howth, Clontarf, and Malahide; and (heading south along the bay) Ballsbridge, Blackrock, Dún Laoghaire, Dalkey, Killiney, Rathgar, and Rathmines. Due to the conspicuous wealth and prosperity that came to these towns in the late 1990s, locals have wryly dubbed this area "Bel Eire."

Main Arteries, Streets & Squares -- In the town center just south of the river, the main east-west artery is Dame Street, which changes its name to College Green, Westmoreland Street, Lord Edward Street, and High Street at various points as it connects Trinity College with Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral. A short walk north of Dame Street you’ll find the winding medieval lanes of the Temple Bar area, Dublin’s party central, packed with noisy late-night bars and cheap, cheerful restaurants.

At its eastern end, where Dame Street becomes College Green, the sturdy gray stone walls of Trinity College make an excellent landmark to get your bearings. At the southwest corner of the campus is the top of Grafton Street, a lively pedestrianized lane lined with clothing boutiques and eateries. It leads, eventually, to the bucolic park of St. Stephen’s Green. From there, head back up Kildare Street past Leinster House (seat of the Irish Parliament) and turn to the right to reach Merrion Square, another of Dublin’s extraordinarily well-preserved Georgian squares.

To cross the River Liffey and get to the Northside, most visitors choose the photogenic arch of the Ha’penny Bridge, while locals take the less attractive O’Connell Bridge nearby. You can be different and cross via the Ha’penny’s sleekly modern neighbor, the Millennium Bridge, which is beautifully illuminated after dark. The O’Connell Bridge leads directly onto broad O’Connell Street, the Northside’s main thoroughfare. O’Connell Street runs north to Parnell Square, which holds a couple of marvelous museums and marks the top edge of central Dublin. The street running along the Liffey’s embankment is called the North Quays by everyone, though its name changes on virtually every block, reflecting the long-gone docks that once lined it; today a pedestrian boardwalk runs along the riverfront here.

In the older section of the city, High Street is the gateway to medieval and Viking Dublin, from the city's two medieval cathedrals to the old city walls and nearby Dublin Castle. The other noteworthy street in the older part of the city is Francis Street, Dublin's antiques row.

Fast Facts

Bank Holidays
North Americans may be baffled by this phrase, which you’ll see a lot on lists of opening times. It simply means a public holiday, often on a Monday. Many shops (and banks!) are closed or run on reduced hours on bank holidays. There are nine regular bank holidays in Ireland: New Year's Day (January 1st); St. Patrick's Day (March 17th); Easter Monday; the first Mondays in every month from May to August, except July; the final Monday in October; Christmas Day (December 25th) and St. Stephen's Day (December 26th).

Dentists
For dental emergencies, your hotel will usually contact a dentist for you; otherwise, try Smiles Dental Spa, 28 O’Connell Street (tel. 1850/323-323) or Molesworth Dental Surgery, 2 Molesworth Place (tel. 01/661-5544).

Doctors & Hospitals
For emergencies, dial tel. 999. If you need a doctor, have your hotel contact one for you. Otherwise you could try Dame Street Medical Center, 16 Dame Street (tel. 01/679-0754), or the Suffolk Street Surgery, 107 Grafton Street (tel. 01/679-8181).

Emergencies
For police, fire, or other emergencies, dial tel. 999

Luggage Storage
If you arrive at your hotel too early to check in, or if check-out is in the morning and your flight isn’t until the evening, many hotels will happily look after your baggage. Alternatively, the tourism office (tel. 01/410-0700) at 37 College Green, opposite Trinity College, can store bags securely for €5 per 24 hours. There are also facilities in the baggae reclaim hall at Dublin Airport (opposite carousels 6–10) and at the Terminal 1 parking lot.

Mail and Postage
The General Post Office on O’Connell Street (tel. 01/705-7000) is open Monday through Saturday 8:30am to 6pm. The post office has numerous smaller offices throughout the city. Postage for a letter or postcard costs €0.72 within Ireland and Northern Ireland; €1.10 to the rest of the world.

Pharmacies
Dublin does not have 24-hour pharmacies. City Pharmacy, 14 Dame Street (tel. 01/670-4523) stays open until 9pm weekdays, 7pm Saturday; Boots the Chemist, 20 Henry Street (tel. 01/873-0209) stays open until 9pm on Thursday, 8pm on Friday, 6pm Sunday, and 7pm all other days. There are also branches of Boots at 12 Grafton Street (tel. 01/677-3000) and in the St Stephen’s Green Centre (tel. 01/478-4368), but not all branches keep the same hours.

Taxis
Taxi ranks are outside major hotels, at bus and train stations, and on Upper O’Connell Street, College Green, and St. Stephen’s Green. To call a cab, try NRC Cabs (tel. 01/677-2222), Trinity (tel. 01/708-2222), or VIP/ACE Taxis (tel. 01/478-3333).

When to Go

Weather

Like the rest of Ireland, Dublin doesn’t have huge fluctuations in temperature during the year with average temperatures around 5°C (41°F) during the winter and 15.1°C (59°F) in the summer months, although it can go 4-5°C above and below those temperatures. Although Dublin is one of the driest areas of the country, it’s always better to be prepared as the city can experience rain on any given day (August and November being the wettest months).

Dublin Calendar

The party gets going for the St. Patrick’s Festival (www.stpatricksfestival.ie) in March, with thousands dressed in green to watch the city-center parade. James Joyce fans dress in Edwardian costume for Bloomsday (tel. 01/878 8547; www.jamesjoyce.ie) in June, following the trail of Leopold Bloom, the main character in the book Ulysses. It’s the turn of equine enthusiasts in August, as the Dublin Horse Show (tel. 01/485 8010; www.dublinhorseshow.com) takes over the Royal Dublin Society for five days of showjumping competitions, while Gaelic sports peak in September for the All-Ireland Football Final (www.tickets.gaa.ie). As the calendar moves into October, the Dublin Theatre Festival (tel. 01/677 8439; www.dublintheatrefestival.com) presents exciting productions from around the world.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Trinity College Area -- On the south side of the River Liffey, Trinity College stands at virtually the dead center of the city. Its shady quadrangles and atmospheric stone buildings are surrounded by bookstores, shops, and noisy traffic. This area lies in the Dublin 2 postal code.

Temple Bar -- There are really two Temple Bars, depending on when you visit. During the day, Temple Bar is an artsy, cultured district full of trendy shops and modern art galleries. But such refinement gives way to an altogether more raucous atmosphere at night. With its myriad selection of pubs, bars, and hip clubs, this is definitely where it’s at in Dublin after dark. This area lies in the Dublin 2 and Dublin 8 postal codes.

Old City -- Dating from Viking and medieval times, the cobblestone enclave of the historic Old City includes Dublin Castle, the remnants of the city’s original walls, and Christ Church and St. Patrick’s cathedrals. Recently, Old City has also gained cachet for its hip boutiques where local designers sell their clothes. It encompasses the Dublin 8 and 2 zones.

Liberties -- Adjacent to Old City, the Liberties district takes its name from the fact that it was once just outside the city walls, and, therefore, exempt from Dublin’s jurisdiction. Although it prospered in its early days, Liberties fell on hard times in the 17th and 18th centuries and stayed that way for centuries. For visitors, its main attraction is the Guinness Brewery. Most of this area is in the Dublin 8 zone.

St. Stephen's Green/Grafton Street Area -- The main tourist area of the city, this district is home to Dublin’s finest hotels, restaurants, and shops. Filled with impressive Georgian architecture, today it is primarily a business and shopping zone. It is part of Dublin 2.

Fitzwilliam & Merrion Squares -- Near Trinity College and St. Stephen’s Green, these two leafy squares are surrounded by grand Georgian town houses. Some of Dublin’s most famous citizens once lived here; today many of the houses are offices for doctors, lawyers, and government agencies. This area is part of the Dublin 2 zone.

O'Connell Street (North of the Liffey) -- Lined with statues from bottom to top, O’Connell Street was the epicenter of the 1916 Easter Rising and the 1922 Civil War (bullet holes still pock the absurdly ornate statue of its namesake, politician Daniel O’Connell). The surrounding area was fashionable in the 19th century but lost much of its charm as it declined in the 20th century. It has experienced a bit of resurgence in recent years, and now has a few high-profile hotels, shops, and restaurants. With many great pubs and four theaters in walking distance of O’Connell Street, this is also Dublin’s theater district. It is mostly in Dublin 1.

North Quays (the Liffey Riverbanks on the Northside) -- Once the center of Dublin's shipping industry, the quays are now a series of streets filled with office buildings named after the wharves that once stood at water’s edge and have become a trendy address for hotels, bars, and clubs.  The quays start near the mouth of the Liffey and end in the green peace of Phoenix Park.  A modern pedestrian boardwalk now runs from the O’Connell Bridge to Grattan Bridge. This area is mostly in Dublin 1.

Ballsbridge/Embassy Row -- Immediately south of the Grand Canal, this upscale suburb is just barely within walking distance of the city center. Primarily a prestigious residential area, it is also home to hotels, restaurants, and embassies, including the U.S. Embassy. This area is part of the Dublin 4 zone.

Getting There

By Plane

Dublin Airport (www.dublinairport.com; 📞 01/814-1111) is 11km (6[bf]3/4 miles) north of the city center. A travel information desk in the arrivals concourse provides information on public bus and rail services throughout the country. All major international and local car-rental companies operate desks at Dublin Airport.

For speed and ease—especially if you have a lot of luggage—a taxi is the best way to get directly to your hotel or guesthouse from the airport. Depending on your destination, fares average between €20 and €35, plus €1 for each additional passenger (but they shouldn’t charge you extra for luggage). A tip of a couple of euro is standard. Cabs are lined up at a first-come, first-served taxi stand directly outside the arrivals terminal (turn right as you walk out the door—you can’t miss it).

An excellent airport-to-city shuttle bus service called AirCoach (www.aircoach.ie; 📞 01/844-7118) operates 24 hours a day, making runs every 15 minutes. Its buses go direct from the airport to Dublin’s city center and south side. Not all the major stops are covered on every service, so do check that you’ve got the right one before you board. City center fares are €6–€8 one-way, depending on where you are going; fares to Ballsbridge, Dún Laoghaire, or Dalkey run around €10. Children aged 5 to 12 are €2–€6; children 13 and over are counted as adults. You can buy tickets in advance on the AirCoach website to guarantee a seat, or you can buy your ticket from the driver. AirCoach is slightly faster than Dublin Bus (see below), and takes travelers directly to the hotel districts.

Dublin Bus (www.dublinbus.ie; 📞 01/873-4222) has regular daily connections between the airport and the city center from around 6am to 11:30pm. The one-way trip takes about 55 minutes, with fares starting at €4 adults, €3 children. Consult the travel information desk in the arrivals concourse to figure out which bus takes you closest to your hotel.

Dublin Bus’s 747 and 757 buses, otherwise known as Airlink (📞 01/844-4265), provide express coach services from the airport to the city’s central bus station, Busáras, on Store Street, and on to Connolly and Heuston railway stations. Services run daily from 5am until 12:30pm (Sun 7:25am–12:15pm), with departures every 15 to 20 minutes (every half-hour late at night); it takes about 40 minutes to travel from the airport to Busáras. One-way fare is €7 for adults, €3for children 11 and under. Tickets can be purchased online in advance, at vending machines at bus stops, or at bus information desks. Route maps can be found on the Dublin Bus website, but for well-designed, downloadable versions, try www.dodublin.ie/airport-transfers/airlink-express/timetables/route-maps. Note: As with anywhere, Dublin Bus timetables are subject to change. It’s always a good idea to check timetables online before you arrive, especially if you’ll be getting in late.

Major international and local car-rental companies operate desks at Dublin Airport.

By Ferry

By Train

By Bus

By Car

Getting Around

If your stay in Dublin is short, geography is on your side. The vast majority of the capital’s top sites are concentrated in the city center, which is small and very walkable, no more than a few square kilometers. This leads to your first, most important (and quite frankly, easiest) decision: If you have a car, leave it behind at your hotel. Dublin’s streets are choked with traffic, with baffling one-way streets and inadequate signage. If your feet get tired, there’s a good tram and bus system, and resonably-priced taxis are plentiful. In fact, with its perennial traffic and parking problems, this is a city where the foot is mightier than the wheel.

By Bus

After walking, buses are the most convenient and practical way to get around the city center sights. Dublin Bus (www.dublinbus.ie;📞 01/873-4222) operates a fleet of double-deckers and single-deckers. Most originate on or near O’Connell Street, Abbey Street, and Eden Quay on the Northside, and at Aston Quay, College Street, and Fleet Street on the south side. Look for bus stop markers resembling big blue or green lollipops—they’re every few blocks on main thoroughfares. To tell where a bus is going, look at the destination street and bus number displayed above its front window; those heading for the city center indicate that with an odd mix of Latin and Gaelic: VIA AN LAR.

Bus service runs daily throughout the city, starting at 6am (10am on Sundays), with the last bus at about 11:30pm. On Friday and Saturday nights, Nitelink service runs from the city center to the suburbs from midnight to 4am. Buses operate every 30 minutes for most runs; schedules are posted on revolving notice boards at bus stops.

Inner-city fares are based on distances traveled. Daytime journeys that take place entirely within the designated “City Centre Zone” cost €0.50. This zone stretches from Parnell Square in the north to Connolly Station and Merrion Square in the east, St. Stephen’s Green in the south, and Ormond Quay in the west. Longer journeys cost up to around €5 if you’re going as far as the outer suburbs.

You pay on board the bus, using an automatic fare machine located in front of the driver. You can pay in coins, or with a smart card known as a Leap Card. No Dublin bus accepts notes or gives change. If you don’t have the exact money in coins, the driver will issue you a “change receipt.” You must then take this to the Dublin Bus headquarters on O’Connell Street to collect your change (a process not designed to encourage refunds). The sole exceptions to this rule are routes 747 and 757 (the Airlink), which run between the airport and the city center—on those buses, drivers accept notes and give change normally.

By DART

An acronym for Dublin Area Rapid Transit, the electric DART trains travel aboveground, linking the city center stations including Heuston, Connolly Station, Tara Street, and Pearse Street with suburbs and seaside communities as far as Malahide to the north and Greystones to the south. Check a map to see if it serves your area. Service operates roughly every 10 to 20 minutes Monday to Saturday from around 6am to midnight and Sunday from 9:30am to 11pm. For further information, check the DART website (www.dart.ie; 📞 1850/366-222).

By Tram

The sleek, modern (and wheelchair-accessible) light-rail tram system known as Luas runs from around 5:30am to 12:30am Monday to Friday, 6:30am to 12:30am Saturday, and 7am to 11:30pm on Sunday. (The last trams to certain stations are earlier—be sure to check the timetable.) There are two lines, Red and Green: The Green Line runs southeast from St. Stephen’s Green to Sandyford and Bride’s Glen in the south; the Red Line runs from Connolly Railway Station to the southwestern suburbs of Saggart and Tallaght. For further information, contact Luas (www.luas.ie; 📞 1850/-300-604). As this was being written, the Luas system was being expanded, with a cross-city line connecting the Red and Green lines and a Green Line extension continuing north to Broombridge. Further extensions are planned. Ticket prices depend on the length of your journey and how many city zones it crosses. A single peak-travel journey within the city center (zone 1) costs €1.54, rising to €2.50 for rides to zones 5 through 8. Ticket vending machines are located at every Luas stop. Purchase your ticket in advance using coins, paper money, or a credit card. Leap Cards are also accepted on Luas, and include a small discount.

Leap Cards

On Foot

Marvelously compact, Dublin is ideal for walking. Just remember to look right and then left (and in the direction opposite your instincts if you’re from North America) before crossing the street. Pedestrians have the right of way at specially marked, zebra-striped crossings (these intersections usually have two flashing lights).

By Taxi

Taxis are everywhere in Dublin, and they are a cheap and handy way to get around. You can either hail a cab on the street (if the light on top of the car is lit, it’s available), or find one at the many taxi stands (called “ranks”) throughout the city—located outside hotels, at bus and train stations, and on prime thoroughfares such as Upper O’Connell Street, College Green, and the north side of St. Stephen’s Green. You can also phone for a taxi. See Fast Facts. 

By Car

We’ll say it again: You do not want to drive around Dublin if you can possibly avoid it. However, if Dublin is your first stop on a wider tour of Ireland, you may want to rent a car to leave town and see the rest of the country. If that’s the case, try Hertz (www.hertz.ie) at Dublin Airport (📞 01/844-5466; or 2 Haddington Rd., Dublin 4 (📞 01/668-7566). Europcar (www.europcar.com) also has branches at Dublin Airport (📞 01/812-2800) and Mark Street (off Pearse St.), Dublin 2 (📞 01/648-5900).