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A deliciously inventive approach to traditional Irish tastes pervades at this super-cool restaurant overlooking Trinity College. But this isn’t one of those trendy eateries where the menu is too concerned with being clever to be satisfying. Here, classic ingredients are offered with modern flair: cod with smoked black lard and mint, beef short rib with garlic and bone marrow, or fried salmon served with hay-smoked mussels and brown shimp. Dishes on the constantly changing menu are light and beautifully presented in an atmosphere of modern elegance. This is one of the city’s top restaurants, and one of its trendiest, so make reservations as early as you can.