A sweet old bookstore downstairs and a chic restaurant upstairs, Winding Stair is just a stone’s throw from the Ha’penny Bridge. The views of the Liffey are romantic, but it’s the inventive modern Irish cooking that pulls in the crowds for lunch and dinner. After a starter of Irish trout and boxty, you could opt for local quail with colcannon and black pudding, or freshly caught hake with saffron potatoes and leeks. The enormous wine list, which is helpfully arranged by character rather than region, features several decently priced options. The fixed-price lunch (€22–€28), and the pre-theater menus (€28–€32) are great value.
- Jack Jewers