Once the sun goes down, Dubrovnik is a hive of humanity, with crowds walking in waves to one restaurant or another and then moving to the Stradun or the Lapad promenade. From about 8 to 11pm, the scene is a diverse mix of families and couples strolling with ice cream cones. Come 11pm, there’s a changing of the crowd as the early birds file out and 18-to-20-somethings flow in, dressed in outfits that rival the getups in “Sex and the City.” Follow the throbbing music, blaring from jam-packed side streets where nightly block parties convene after the restaurants close, and you’ll experience Dubrovnik’s café society’s second shift.

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