Planning a trip to Dubrovnik
Reaching Dubrovnik by any means except air can be inconvenient and expensive. Even driving there from elsewhere in Croatia is time consuming because of the city’s position between the mountains and sea, and the lack of modern roads in the area. Ferry routes to Dubrovnik often include multiple stops at various islands, and train service is nonexistent. Build in extra travel time when you plan a visit to Dubrovnik.
Arriving by Plane -- Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr) operates regular flights to and from Zagreb and several European cities. Various European budget airlines also serve Dubrovnik through summer. Planes land at Dubrovnik International Airport/ Zrac[av]na Luka (www.airport-dubrovnik.hr), in C[av]ilipi, 18km (11 miles) from the city center.
Atlas (www.atlas-croatia.com) operates shuttle buses to and from Dubrovnik Airport, and they are coordinated with incoming flights, even late ones. Buses supposedly leave the main terminal in Dubrovnik near Gruz[av] Port 90 minutes before each flight, but there is no posted schedule. They also sop at Pile Gate, just outside the Old Town. The fare is 35kn one way and the trip takes about 25 minutes. There is also taxi service to and from the airport—expect to pay around 270kn.
By Bus -- Daily buses operate between the Dubrovnik ferry port at Gruz[av] and Zagreb, Zadar, Split, S[av]ibenik, Rijeka, Orebic[as], and Korc[av]ula in Croatia, as well as Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia-Herzegovina. For other international service. The main Dubrovnik bus terminal (www.libertasdubrovnik.hr; tel. 020/357-020) is in Gruz[av], close to the port, at Obala Pape Ivana Pavla 44a.
By Ferry -- Through the warmer months (mid-April through October), Dubrovnik is served by Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr) overnight ferry from Bari, Italy. Jadrolinija also operates a summer (May through September) coastal service, from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, stopping at Split, Stari Grad (on Hvar), Korc[av]ula Town (on Korc[av]ula), and Sobra (on Mljet) en-route. However, note that this service is extremely slow—it takes 22 hrs. to reach Dubrovnik from Rijeka. In addition, Jadrolinija runs local ferries to Dubrovnik from the nearby Elafiti Islands and Mljet. Buy tickets and obtain schedule information at the Dubrovnik Jadrolinija office (www.jadrolinija.hr; tel. 020/418-000) at Obala Stjepana Radic[as]a 40 in Gruz[av].
By Car -- The A1 autocesta between Zagreb and Split opened in June 2005, and now extends all the way to Ploc[av]e. However, the final section of the road is still under construction, and no reliable completion date has been fixed. If you drive from Zagreb to Dubrovnik using the new highway and the remaining section of the old coastal road, it will take approximately 7 hrs.
Visitor Information
You’ll find the Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board (www.visitdubrovnik.com; tel. 020/324-999) office at Vukovarska 24. The Dubrovnik City Tourist Board office (www.experience.dubrovnik.hr; tel. 020/323-887) is at Brsalje 5. Walk-in tourist information centers can also be found at the following locations: Pile Tourist Information Center (tel.020/312-011)at Brsalje 5; Gruz[av] Tourist Information Center (tel.020/417-983) at Obala Ivana Pavla II; and Lapad Tourist Information Center (tel.020/437-460) at Kralja Tomislava 7.
Private tourist agencies can be helpful, too—the following represents a partial list.
Adventure Dalmatia (www.adventuredalmatia.com; tel. 021/540-642)is a well-organized and highly professional adventure travel source. Even though it is based in Split (at Matije Gupca 26),the agency offers an extensive slate of active Dubrovnik excursions, including sea kayaking around the Old Town walls, cycling in Konavle, and hiking on Mount Srdj.
Elite Travel (www.elite.hr; tel. 020/358-200) at Vukovarska 17 runs one-day excursions from Dubrovnik, such as the agency’s “Islands Cruise” (taking in the Elafiti Islands) and “Ancient Montenegro” (visiting the Bay of Kotor). The agency also arranges multi-day tours by bus, covering Croatia, Slovenia, and Bosnia-Herzegovina.
Gulliver Travel (www.gulliver.hr; tel. 020/410-888) at Obala Stjepana Radic[as]a 25 offers a broad range of excursions to Dubrovnik’s offshore islands and towns up and down the southern Adriatic coast.
Metro Tours (www.metrotours-dubrovnik.hr; tel. 020/437-320) at S[av]etalis[av]te Kralja Zvonimira 40A offers daily excursions from Dubrovnik. You can choose from half-day tours to Cavtat, or Trsteno and Ston, or full-day trips to Montenegro or tours like “Fish Picnic Elaphiti Islands” and the “Korc[av]ula and Peljes[av]ac Wine Tour.”
Fast Facts
ATMs -- All Croatia’s major banks operate Bankomats (aka ATMs) in Old Town and the surrounding suburbs. These are centrally located on the Stradun, in Lapad and Gruz[av],outside the Pile Gate, and in some hotel lobbies.
Banks -- Most banks open Monday–Friday 8am–7pm, and Saturday 8am–noon.
Credit Cards -- Credit cards are generally accepted at hotels and larger restaurants, but be sure to ask before you order.
Emergencies -- Dial tel. 192 for the police; tel. 194 for an ambulance; tel. 193 to report a fire. For road assistance from the Croatian Auto Club (www.hak.hr), dial tel. 1987.
Hospital -- Dubrovnik General Hospital (www.bolnica-du.hr; tel.020/431-777) is at Roka Mis[av]etic[as]a bb.
Internet Access -- Almost every hotel and hostel now offers free Internet access to guests, as do many cafés.
Pharmacies -- There are two pharmacies that alternate in working night shifts; if one is not open, the other should be. They are Kod Zvonika (tel. 020/321-133) at Placa 2 in the Old Town and Gruž.
Time Zone -- Dubrovnik is on Central European Time (GMT plus 1 hr.). Daylight saving time starts in late March and ends in late October.
Tipping -- Tipping is generally not expected, though it is appreciated. High-end restaurants are the exception. Waiters there expect a tip.
Weather -- The climate in Dubrovnik is typical Mediterranean, with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers.
Neighborhoods in Brief
Old Town -- The area within Dubrovnik’s walls is known as Old Town and most of the city’s main attractions are there. Besides historic buildings, Old Town is home to restaurants, cafés, shops, and services that line the Stradun—a long (just under .5km/ 1/4 mile) and wide street that runs from Pile Gate (west entrance) to Ploče Gate (east entrance)—and its back streets.
Ploče -- Ploče is the neighborhood just outside Ploče Gate, east of the Old Town. Some of the city’s classiest hotels are located on waterfront property in this area, as is the city’s main public beach, Banje, home to the EastWest Beach Club.
Lapad -- There are no big-time historic sites in Lapad, a peninsula west of Old Town. Its main attraction is a wide, leafy, pedestrians-only street lined with hotels and restaurants and backed by a residential area. Lapad abuts Lapad Bay, so it has some beachfront. For accommodations, the neighborhood’s draw is several moderately priced hotels—at least moderate compared to the luxury hotels in Ploče and Old Town. Almost every bus that stops in Lapad (nos. 4, 5, 6, and 7) connects with Old Town at the Pile Gate; the ride takes 15 minutes and costs 15kn if you buy on board, 12kn from a news kiosk.
Babin Kuk -- On the Lapad Peninsula, at some indeterminable point less than 6.4km (4 miles) from Dubrovnik’s center and bordered on three sides by the sea and pebble beaches, the Babin Kuk neighborhood begins. Babin Kuk is home to several hotels in various price ranges. It also is an access point to rocky coves with what optimists call beaches (read: major pebbles/rocks, no sand), as well as restaurants, shops, and services. Babin Kuk is connected to Dubrovnik by the city’s bus system.
Getting Around
There are no trains or trams in Dubrovnik, but the Libertas city bus system (www.libertasdubrovnik.hr) is fairly efficient. For those staying within comfortable walking distance of Old Town, everything important is accessible on foot.
By Bus -- Buy one-way bus tickets from news kiosks or hotels in advance for 12kn, or directly from drivers onboard for 15kn; an unlimited full-day ticket is 30kn. All buses stop at the Pile Gate and continue on to outlying hotels, the ferry port, and beyond. Schedules and route maps are available on the Libertas website.
By Taxi -- Taxi stands are at the airport, bus station, and at the Pile Gate. If you need to call a taxi, contact Radio Taxi (www.radiotaxidubrovnik.com; tel. 0800/0970). Rides start with 25kn on the meter and go up 8kn per kilometer. If you agree to a meter-less ride, negotiate a price beforehand to avoid rip-offs and unwanted excursions.
On Foot -- Negotiating the busy streets outside the city walls can be confusing, especially at night. Within the Old Town, you can devise your own walking tour using the suggestions in this book. You can also employ a private guide to accompany you on a walk, or you can book a guided Old Town walking tour through the tourist office or through a private tourist agency.
By Car -- Congestion and parking make driving in Dubrovnik stressful, and Old Town is pedestrian-only. Cars are best for excursions to nearby Pelješac or Ston; car rental companies at the airport include Hertz (www.hertz.hr; tel. 020/771-568), Budget (www.budget.hr; tel. 020/773-811), and Thrifty (www.thrifty.com.hr; tel. 020/773 588). In addition, MACK (www.rent-a-car.hr; tel. 020/423-747) is an economical and reliable local company, based at Frana Supila 3, close to the Old Town. Wherever you rent, be sure to reserve a car in advance.
