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  • Best in New Town: In a city famous for its pubs, the Café Royal Circle Bar, 17 W. Register St. (tel. 0131/556-1884), stands out, boasting lots of atmosphere and gas-light, frosted-glass Victorian-style design.
  • Best in Stockbridge: At the heart of the village of Stockbridge, the Bailie Bar, 2 St. Stephen St. (tel. 0131/225-4673), usually has plenty of banter between the regulars and the staff, and no music ever drowns out the conversation here.
  • Best in Old Town: Just below the castle, the Bow Bar, 80 W. Bow (tel. 0131/226-7667), pours some of the best ales in town in a traditional and comfortable pub with a good whisky selection, too.
  • Best in Leith: The Shore, 3-4 The Shore (tel. 0131/553-5080), fits seamlessly into the seaside port ambience, without resorting to a lot of the usual decorations of cork and netting. Excellent food, as well.
  • Best for Folk Music: It is a toss-up between Sandy Bell's, 25 Forrest Rd. (tel. 0131/225-2751), and the Royal Oak, 1 Infirmary St. (tel. 0131/557-2967), when it comes to spontaneous Scottish folk and poetry. Try both if this is your bag.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.