For sheer class, this grande dame still has the edge. Yes there are other luxury hotels in the Scottish capital but they haven't got the Olga Polizzi pizzazz. Taste, style and luxury seep out of the walls. As soon as the doorman ushers you from frenetic Princes Street into the elegant marble foyer, dripping in fresh flowers, you're enveloped in a chic cocoon that's smattered with eclectic artwork. The Victorian railway hotel, next to Waverley Station with its distinctive clock tower, opened in 1902, becoming part of the Rocco Forte portfolio in 1997. Today, it boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant, Number One, as well as a relaxed brasserie; a light, airy Palm Court where harp music soothes away city cares over afternoon tea; and a sleek spa. Rooms, many with panoramic castle views, reflect the soft heathery tones of the Scottish landscape while Scotch, the whisky bar launched in 2013, is daubed in the earthy amber tones of the 400 or so drams you can nose on a cowskin barstool.