The once down-at-heel docklands in Leith is now gentrified, the waterfront lined with buzzing bars, gastropubs, and a boutique hotel, along with two Michelin-starred restaurants and a cooking school. There's a smattering of fish restaurants here too, including Fishers (which has another branch in the center of town, Fishers in the City). In a 17th-century watchtower, the round room and bar with its dark wood paneling and carved mermaid conjures up a ship's saloon. There are smarter fish restaurants in the capital, but this one feels more spit and sawdust. From bisque to bass, the usual suspects jump off the menu. Tuck into a bowl of steaming Scottish mussels drenched in white wine, cream, and garlic, or splash out on the seafood platter piled high with smoked salmon, smoked trout, mackerel, fresh anchovies, rollmop herring, oysters, prawns, and langoustine.