Many residents of Cádiz come over just for the evening to sample the marisco (seafood) bars along Ribera de Marisco (Shellfish Way). The tourist office will provide you with a list of six different tapas routes, taking in more than three dozen different bars, each with its own specialties. Along Ribera de Marisco, our favorite is Romerijo (tel. 95-654-12-54), although there are many nearby almost as good, including Además Tapía, Casa Paco, Paco Ceballos, El Pijota, and Bar Jamón. No phones, no reservations -- just show up at night and start eating.

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