Planning a trip to El Salvador

Fast Facts

American Express -- American Express traveler's checks can be exchanged at most banks, but very few businesses in El Salvador accept them. American Express offices are located in San Salvador (Anna's Travel, 3ra Calle Poniente 3737 btw. 71 and 73 Av. Norte; tel. 503/2209-8800; or Servi-Viajes, Paseo General Escalón 3508 #4; tel. 503/2298-6868), in San Miguel (Anna's Travel, 8 Calle Poniente 815, Roosevelt Bario San Filipe, San Miguel; tel. 503/2661-8282), and in Santa Ana (Anna's Travel, 2 Calle Poniente and 4 Av. Norte #4, Santa Ana; tel. 503/2447-1574).

Business Hours -- Most banks and Casa de la Cultura community centers are open Monday through Friday 8:30am to 5pm and 8:30am to noon or 1pm on Saturday. Some banks and Casas de la Cultura have extended Saturday hours. Business offices follow a similar schedule, but are closed Saturday and Sunday. Also note that many national tourist sites, such as Tazumal and Joya de Cerén, are open Sunday but closed Monday.

Small-town shops often close for an hour or two around midday, and smaller village restaurants close around 6pm. San Salvador's restaurants close for the night between 8 and 11pm, with nightclubs staying open until the wee hours.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in both countries is 18, although it is often not enforced. Beer, wine, and liquor are all sold in most supermarkets and small convenience stores from Monday through Saturday. No liquor is sold on Good Friday, Easter Sunday, or election days. If you're caught possessing, using, or trafficking drugs anywhere in the region, expect severe penalties, including long jail sentences and large fines.

Electricity -- Nicaragua and El Salvador run on 110 volts, 60 Hz, the same as the United States and Canada. However, three-prong grounded outlets are not universally available. It's helpful to bring a three-to-two prong adapter. European and Asian travelers should bring adapters with any accompanying appliances. Be prepared for frequent blackouts and bring surge protectors.

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy in San Salvador is located at Urbanización Santa Elena, Antiguo Cuscatlán (tel. 503/2278-4444; http://sansalvador.usembassy.gov). The Canadian Embassy can be found at Centro Financiero Gigante, Alameda Roosevelt and 63 Av. Sur, lobby 2, location 6 (tel. 503/2279-4655). Australia has no embassy or consulate, but has an agreement allowing the Canadian embassy to assist Australian citizens. The United Kingdom has a consulate at 17 Calle Poniente 320 (tel. 503/2281-5555; gchippendale@gibson.com.sv). The U.K. embassy in Guatemala City, Guatemala (16 Calle 0-55, Zone 10, Edificio Porre Internaciónal, level 11; tel. 502/2367-5425; www.fco.gov.uk) handles visa and passport issues for residents of the United Kingdom traveling in El Salvador. New Zealand does not have a consulate or embassy in El Salvador. Kiwis need to contact the New Zealand embassy in Mexico City (Jamie Balmes 8, 4th floor, Los Morales, Polanco, Mexico, D.F. 11510; tel. 5255/5283-9460; jorge.arguelles@nzte.govt.nz) for assistance.

Emergencies -- Emergencies anywhere in the country can be handled by calling tel. 911. Some towns also have local numbers for tourist police, fire, and other agencies. Those numbers are listed in this guide, wherever applicable.

Hospitals -- The nation's premier private hospital is Hospital de Diagnóstico y Emergencias Colonia Escalón (21a Calle Poniente and 2a Diagnol 429, Urbanización, La Esperanza Paseo del General Escalón, San Salvador; tel. 503/2506-2000). If you have a serious medical issue but are not ready or willing to leave the country, this is the place you need to go. Public hospitals, which are not recommended, are scattered throughout the country and can get you patched up well enough to get home or to San Salvador. A complete list of El Salvador's public hospitals with contact information can be found at www.mspas.gob.sv.

Internet & Wifi -- The hotel listings in this guide contain information on what hotels have free internet and WiFi services. Be aware that many high-end hotels charge between $3 and $10 per day for internet use although some will let you log on and print an airline boarding pass free of charge .Language -- Spanish is the official language of El Salvador. Few El Salvadorans outside of San Salvador's hotels speak English, so it's a good idea to learn a few words and to bring a Spanish phrasebook with you.

Language -- Spanish is by far the dominant language in the region, except on Nicaragua's Atlantic coast, where English is spoken -- a lilting creole that has West Indian roots. A number of indigenous languages have survived, most notably Miskito in Nicaragua's eastern autonomous region. It is also advisable to learn some basic Spanish before you travel here; we recommend picking up a copy of Frommer's Spanish Phrase Finder & Dictionary.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct.

If you need emergency cash, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Their website can direct you to the closest location.

Maps -- Maps are exceedingly hard to come by in El Salvador. The main CORSATUR office in San Salvador offers large, colorful, tourism-style country and San Salvador maps. But few small towns offer street maps. Most towns are easy to find off the main highways and are walkable once you arrive.

Newspapers & Magazines -- El Diario de Hoy and La Prensa are El Salvador's most readily available newspapers. El Diario considers itself to be the country's paper, while La Prensa seems to have a more international perspective. Both are written in Spanish. The best English-language magazine you'll find in El Salvador is the Guatemala-based Revue Magazine, which offers travel, culture, and business features concerning Central America.

Police -- Call tel. 911 for emergencies.

Post Offices & Mail -- Most towns in El Salvador have post offices marked by a blue sign reading CORREOS. Offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm in larger cities, and 7am to noon and 2 to 5pm in small towns. To mail a standard letter from El Salvador to the United States costs around 65¢ and 85¢ to Europe and Australia. For a list of post office addresses and phone numbers, visit http://www.correos.gob.sv/ and click on "Correos de El Salvador." In general, expect it to take 2 weeks for your letter or postcard to reach home and the cost to vary from 70¢ to $1 for a letter to North America or Europe. If you're sending a parcel, a Customs officer may have to inspect it first. Theft is a common problem. Always try to send mail from a main post office and insist that the envelope be stamped in front of you. It's wise to send things via registered post, though often the letter can be tracked as far as the border and no more. Private courier services are everywhere, but most are expensive.

Smoking -- There are no government smoking bans in Nicaragua or El Salvador at the moment. Private companies do not allow smoking in places like cinemas or long-distance buses, however. The better hotels and restaurants have nonsmoking rooms and areas, but in general, you can still puff wherever you want.

Taxes -- All hotels charge an 18% tax. Restaurants charge 13% on the total cost of the bill and often sneak in an automatic 10% for service -- check your bill carefully to avoid overtipping.

Time -- El Salvador is 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- A 10% tip is automatically added to most restaurant checks, and taxi drivers don't expect a tip. No hard standard exists for bellhops, but $1 per bag will keep you in their good graces. Also, many tour guides work entirely for tips, with a $2 minimum expected for anytime up to an hour. After that, it's up to you to compensate for exceptional service.

Toilets -- These are known as sanitarios, servicios sanitarios, or baños. They are marked damas (women), and hombres or caballeros (men). Public restrooms are hard to come by in both countries. You will almost never find a public restroom in a city park or downtown area. You can take refuge in the many huge malls that are now springing up in both countries. Otherwise, one must count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant. Same goes for most beaches. Most restaurants and, to a lesser degree, hotels will let you use their facilities, especially if you buy a soft drink or something. Bus and gas stations often have restrooms, but many of these are pretty grim. Don't flush toilet paper; put it in the trash bin.

Water -- The water in the major cities and tourist destinations is ostensibly safe to drink. However, many travelers react adversely to water in foreign countries, and it's probably best to drink bottled water and avoid ice or food washed with tap water throughout your visit to the region.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Residents of the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom do not need visas and can enter the country at the border with presentation of a valid passport and the purchase of a $10 30-day tourist card. (Visitors can also ask for a 90-day card when entering the country.)

El Salvador is part of a 2006 border control agreement with Honduras, Guatemala, and Nicaragua, allowing travel among the four countries under one tourist card. The number of days of your tourist card is determined at the first of the four countries entered.

El Salvadoran Embassy Locations

In the U.S.: 2308 California St., NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/265-9671; fax 202/232-3763; www.elsalvador.org).

In Canada: 209 Kent St., Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 1Z8 (tel. 613/238-2939; fax 613/238-6940).

In the U.K.: Mayfair House, 8 Dorset Sq., Marylebone, London, NWI 6PU (tel. 0207/224-9800; fax 0207/224-9878).

In Australia: Consulate only: Level 3, 499 St. Kilda Rd., Melbourne, VIC 3004 (tel. 03/9867-4400; fax 03/9867-4455; cherrera@rree.gob.sv).

In New Zealand: Consulate only: 1/644 Manukau Rd., Epsom, Auckland 1023 (tel. 09/649-625-4770).

Passports

The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications, as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3; tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office (Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2; tel. 01/671-1633; www.dfa.ie). Those 17 and under, or 66 and older, must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410; or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center's toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

Visitors to El Salvador can bring in no more than 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, 2L (2 qt.) of alcohol, and gifts worth up to $500. Like in most countries, there are heavy restrictions on the import and export of plants, animals, vegetables, and fruit.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

El Salvador is Catholic and conservative. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare and considered somewhat shocking. There are some gay bars in San Salvador, and I even came across a group of late-night transsexuals in tiny Suchitoto, but the scene is well concealed. Gay and lesbian travelers should choose their hotels with care and be discreet in most public areas and situations. For a complete listing of gay-friendly venues, check out www.gayelsalvador.com.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some ecofriendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Sustainable Tourism in El Salvador

Numerous plush and not-so-plush establishments around the world have adopted the ecolodge label to attract well-meaning visitors when in reality their environmental efforts are cosmetic only. El Salvador is not immune to such greenwashing. One notable exception, however, is the delightful La Cocotera in Barra Santiago. This luxury lodge has genuine green credentials with solar-powered water, a turtle incubation project, and a concerted effort to train locals in the hospitality industry. Less luxurious but just as green is Imposible Eco Lodge, close to the national park of the same name.

Where you stay will determine greatly the mark you leave behind. The greenest way to stay in El Salvador is to choose a homestay with a family, but this is not an option if you are on a quick holiday and want some privacy and creature comforts. If you do choose a homestay, try to book directly through a local organization and not a foreign-based agency that collects a whopping commission. The same must be said when signing up for a volunteer program. There are a multitude of Web-based clearinghouses that gouge commissions from your hefty fee while very little of your money reaches the actual community.

Nicaragua and El Salvador are not immune to the boom in ecotourism, with the former especially well positioned to take advantage of the vast amount of untamed nature it possesses. Lodges vary greatly in luxury and amenities: Be sure to choose a lodge that meets your expectations. Also, take into consideration that many by their very "nature" are in isolated areas.

Perquín Lenca Hotel de Montaña (tel. 503/2680-4046; www.perkinlenca.com) is a mountainside, cabin-style hotel in the rugged hinterland of Perquín, in eastern El Salvador.

La Cocotera (tel. 503/2245-3691; www.lacocoteraresort.com) is a gorgeous property tucked between an estuary and the beach, and surrounded by a coconut plantation on the isolated Barra de Santiago. Stylish rooms with an environmental conscience make this an unforgettable stay.

El Imposible Eco Lodge (tel. 503/2411-5484; www.elimposible-ecolodge.com) is located at the entrance to Parque Nacional El Imposible. A-frame wooden huts with private verandas overlook a small, rock-lined pool here with natural spring water.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases are released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodations ratings.

• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.

Money

The unit of currency in El Salvador is the U.S. dollar. The country made the switch from its native colón in 2001, and colónes have been phased out since 2004. Small-town tiendas rarely have change for a $20, so get small bills whenever you can. ATMs, known as cajeros automáticos, can be found in all major cities but are hard to come by in rural towns. Even when a smaller town has an ATM, it may not accept your card -- stock up on cash when you can.

Bank machines accept most major card networks, such as Cirrus, PLUS, Visa, and MasterCard. I've had the best luck with a PLUS card at Scotiabank ATMs. Credit cards are accepted mainly only in the larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. Sometimes, you get lucky in the most unexpected places, but generally, small shops or restaurants in villages are solo efectivo, or cash only. Those that accept credit cards usually take American Express, Diners Club, Visa, and MasterCard.

You can just about forget about traveler's checks. Almost no one outside of large San Salvador hotels accepts these anymore. If you feel more comfortable carrying traveler's checks, you can exchange them for currency at most banks or American Express offices.

The cost of basics in El Salvador varies wildly, depending on where you are. A good general rule of thumb puts San Salvador prices largely on par with those in the United States. You'll spend $6 or more for long cab rides and $5.50 for most fast-food purchases. Outside of San Salvador, however, all costs are considerably lower. A 10- to 15-minute taxi ride in La Palma is $3 and pupusas (the national dish) cost 25¢ each in smaller towns. San Salvador's finer restaurants and hotels -- though much more expensive than those in the rest of the country -- are also considerably cheaper than comparable places in the United States or the U.K.

Money Talk -- The widely used local slang for a quarter is a "cora."

Special-Interest Vacations

Archeological Sites

If you are looking for Maya splendor, visit the ruins at Tazumal in western El Salvador. Another interesting Maya site in El Salvador, though not as visually stunning, is the abandoned village known as Joya de Cerén.

Volunteer Opportunities in El Salvador

If you enjoy mixing a little humanitarian work in with your volcano hiking and village visiting, El Salvador offers a plethora of volunteer activities, from building homes and schools to teaching English. Below are the best options.

Habitat for Humanity (Colonia General Arce, Calle Jorge Domingue 4-H; tel. 503/2298-3290; www.habitatelsalvador.org.sv) began building earthquake-resistant homes here in 1992 almost immediately after the end of the war and now has six offices and ongoing projects throughout the country. By Habitat estimates, El Salvador -- in the wake of Hurricane Mitch and the 2001 earthquake -- still remains 630,000 homes short of what's needed. Habitat requires a minimum 5-day commitment and a $45 per-day fee for room and board, orientation, and transportation. You'll need to register 3 to 6 months in advance.

If you like working with your hands, you can also check in with Seeds of Learning (SOL; 585 5th St. W., Sonoma, CA 95476; tel. 707/939-0471; www.seedsoflearning.org), which builds schools in rural El Salvador. SOL volunteers work literally side by side with local community members to build schools, so volunteers really get to know the people they are helping. SOL, which has been working in El Salvador since 1999, requires a 10-day commitment, and the program costs $1,200, including lodging at a basic hotel or retreat center, food, transportation, and excursions. Scholarships are available for volunteers under 30 years of age.

English-language skills are also increasingly important to Salvadorans, and the country has numerous English-teaching opportunities. Global Crossroad (415 E. Airport Freeway, Ste. 365, Irving, TX 75062; tel. 866/387-7816; www.globalcrossroad.com) offers 1- to 12-week teaching programs in San Salvador, Sonsonate, and Santa Ana, beginning at $899 for food, housing, and transportation from the airport upon arrival. Volunteers stay with host families and teach primarily children. Global Crossroad also offers short-term volunteer opportunities teaching computer skills, taking care of orphan children, and helping to maintain communities. Travelers willing to make a longer teaching commitment should check out El Salvador-based Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad, or CIS (Av. Bolivar 103, Colonia Libertad, San Salvador; tel. 503/2226-5362; www.cis-elsalvador.org). CIS was formed after the signing of the peace accords to help promote solidarity among the Salvadoran people and cultural exchange with other countries. Volunteers pay only a $100 registration fee and $70 per week for room and board with a local family, and volunteers receive half-price ($50) Spanish classes. A 10-week commitment is required, though.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for El Salvador is 503, which you use only when dialing from outside the country. Telephone numbers in this guide include this prefix because most businesses' published phone numbers include the prefix.

To place a call from your home country to El Salvador, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus the country code (503), plus the eight-digit phone number.

To place a call within El Salvador, simply dial the eight-digit number beginning with 2 for landlines and 7 for cellphones.

To place a direct international call from El Salvador, dial 00 for international access, plus the country code to the nation you are calling, followed by the area code and local phone number. For directory enquiries, dial tel. 155, and to make reverse-charge calls abroad, you must call tel. 155-120. However, these are automated services that will sorely test your Spanish.

Claro (tel. 503/2250-5555; www.claro.com.sv) is the main telephone company, and call center branches can be found in all the main towns and cities. You can also make calls from public booths located on the street. Cards can be bought at most service stations and corner stores.

Cellphones

Cellphones have taken off in El Salvador, with more than 3 million gadgets in use, the vast majority of which are pay-as-you-go. The main companies are Movistar, Tigo, Digicel, and Claro, with Tigo reputedly giving the best overall reception. You will need to buy a new chip on arrival if you wish to bring your own phone; better, more reliable, and more expensive is to arrange a roaming facility with your phone company before your trip. The roaming service can cost anywhere between $1 and $4 a minute, while a new chip costs $35. Whichever you decide, consult with your provider beforehand, as many a traveler has found his phone still useless with a new chip; it has something to do with different bands in different countries and not all phones being compatible.

Pay-as-you-go phones can be purchased in the airport, the cheapest of which cost $60. Make sure to ask if the phone can take international calls and how much this costs, as packages vary and can be restrictively expensive. For example, partially paying for Mom's call will soon blitz any credit you have. Local calls vary from 10¢ to 50¢ a minute. Look out for promotions such as free incoming calls and cheap international calls for 10¢ a minute with certain networks.

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

Your best, cheapest bet for making international calls is to head to an Internet cafe. The vast majority have an international calling system called Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP), which most of us know as Skype. These cafes are easily spotted because they have headsets attached to each computer (and often a loud foreigner shouting down one). International calls made this way can range anywhere from free to $1 per minute -- much cheaper than making direct international calls or using a phone card. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find one of the many Internet cafes in El Salvador that provide the service. To open an account is easy -- just go on www.skype.com and follow the instructions. If you are calling another Skype user, the call is free.

Internet & E-mail

With Your Own Computer -- Even the most humble hostel has Wi-Fi coverage in El Salvador. Hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as "hot spots," meaning you can access the Internet from your own wireless-enabled laptop. Most places don't charge, though there are some high-end hotels in San Salvador that do. Wireless Internet in Spanish is known as internet inalámbrico. Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. iPass providers (www.ipass.com) also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities around the world, go to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/WirelessCommunities or www.jiwire.com, which holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout Central America offer dataports for laptop modems.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them.

Without Your Own Computer -- Cybercafes are now a common sight in any urban part of El Salvador, though be warned that in the classier districts of San Salvador, they are markedly absent. That should not matter, however, as any self-respecting hotel or youth hostel nowadays has at least one computer you can get to the Internet on, and many provide at least 15 minutes free. When entering a cybercafe, ask for una máquina, and the assistant will direct you to an available computer. Charges vary between $1 and $2 an hour.

Where Are You @? -- The @ symbol is hard to find on a Latin American keyboard. You must keep your finger on the "Alt" key and then press "6" and "4" on the number pad to the right. If you're at an Internet cafe, ask the assistant to help you type an arroba.

Getting Around

By Bus

El Salvador is an easy and fun country to see by bus. There are very few places in this small nation that cannot be reached by one of El Salvador's many decades-old, brightly painted, former-elementary-school buses. Most city buses are 25¢ to 35¢, with few, if any, rides within the country costing more than $2. El Salvador's larger cities have dedicated bus depots, but in smaller villages, the buses often come and go directly from the main square. In small towns and along many slow-moving roads, you can also hail buses like you would a taxi by waving your arm.

Buses in El Salvador are also mobile markets and charities. Be prepared for vendors to hop aboard at each stop to sell fruit, bottled water, and dulces (candy). You'll likely encounter brightly dressed clowns who solicit for various charities, as well. Though riding a bus in El Salvador is an excellent way to get to know the country's people and culture, don't detour away from the main tourist routes mentioned in this guide and avoid nighttime bus travel, or you'll risk encountering some safety issues.

Older Is Better -- Stick to the older buses in El Salvador. You might be tempted to hop on one of the country's newer, more-modern-looking buses, but these rides rarely have air-conditioning, they cram just as many people on, and because they have bucket rather than bench seats, you'll have even less room than on the older buses. Fortunately, most buses that travel within the country are of the ancient variety. They regularly get fixed up, painted wild colors, decorated with religious symbols, and put back in service. These buses are packed, hot, bumpy, and stop frequently, but they will get you where you need to go, in style and more comfortably.

By Car

El Salvador is one of the easiest countries in Central America to see by car, since it boasts newly constructed, well-paved, and well-marked highways running the length of the country from east to west and north to south. Hwy. CA-1, also known as the Pan-American Highway or "Carretera Panamericana," is the nation's main artery traveling from the western Guatemalan border through San Salvador to the eastern Honduran border. Hwy. CA-2 runs the same direction along the coast and is intersected by three major north-south highways running the length of the country. Once you get off the main roads, however, things get a little different. The secondary roads are not usually paved. So, even in the dry season, it's best to rent a truck. In the rainy season, I recommend renting a four-wheel-drive, as some roads are not passable with regular vehicles.

To minimize your risk of robbery, do not drive at night. When visiting larger cities, it's best to leave your car parked in your hotel parking lot and just take buses and cabs; city streets here are often chaotic, filled with people and vendors, and streets are rarely marked. These are not roads you want to drive while reading a map. You should really keep your eyes peeled while driving anywhere in the country: El Salvador's roads are filled with old jalopies moving at half the posted speed, motorcycles puttering along on the shoulder, farmers walking with carts sticking a few feet into the road, and pedestrians just inches from the lane.

• "Alto" means stop.
• Many small towns have a one-way system around the central plaza, so keep right as you enter each town.
• Lines of traffic cones will occasionally block your way. These are speed checks, and you just weave through them.
• Make sure you get a "Tarjeta de Circulacion" from your car rental company and double check that it's not out of date. All cars must have this "Circulation Card" to move freely around the country.
• Avoid driving at night in order to minimize your risk of robbery.
• When visiting large cities, leave your car in your hotel parking lot and take buses and cabs, as chaotic traffic and lack of street signs makes city driving difficult.

Driving Rules -- The official rules of the road in Nicaragua and El Salvador are very much the same as those in North America. People drive on the right, and standard international signage makes it clear who has the right of way at city junctions. Seat belts are obligatory, and speed limits apply to urban areas.

Not that anybody notices. The standard of driving in both countries is poor and sloppy, with speeding and fender benders very common. Watch out for drivers turning without indicating and chaotic city traffic circles where anything goes. Huge potholes are frequent, especially in rural areas of Nicaragua, where kids make a living by filling these hazardous craters with dirt in exchange for change from drivers.

A valid driver's license is necessary in both countries, and it is recommended that you get an international license before you travel. Police checkpoints are frequent. It is important never to move your car after an accident, even if it is blocking the road. If an accident causes an injury, both drivers are taken into custody until the matter is cleared up, which can take several days.

By Ferry

There is regular ferry service across Lago Suchitlán to Suchitoto, and ferries ply the waters around La Unión, but additional ferry service is nonexistent.

By Taxi

Taxis are prevalent in the country's bigger cities and are usually easy to catch around each city's main square -- they're safe to hail on the street, except at night, when you should have your hotel call you one.

Smaller cities usually don't have taxis, but many feature small moto-taxis (called tuk -tuks) which are basically red, canvas-covered, three-wheeled motorcycles. Tuk tuks are often much cheaper than regular taxis -- sometimes as little as 25¢ for a few blocks -- and you get the added bonus of feeling the wind in your hair.

When to Go

El Salvador's peak seasons are Semana Santa, or Holy Week, which precedes Easter Sunday; the month of August; and mid-December through Christmas. Prices during these times can be higher, but not always. Some hotels actually run specials to keep up with the competition; it just depends on how busy the hotel thinks it will be. Either way, you need to book any decent hotel well in advance during these times, or you won't get a room.

December is actually the best time to visit El Salvador, when the rainy season has just ended and the landscape is still green and the air clean and fresh. The rainy season (Mar-Nov) is the best time to surf, though the dry season is still good and more suitable for beginners. Wildlife-watching is best in the dry season, especially since some parks, including Montecristo, are closed during the rainy season. Turtle-watching is the exception: Nesting takes place from May to November.

Climate -- The country has two distinct seasons in terms of weather. The first is the dry season, which runs from November to April. The second is the rainy season, which runs from May to October. Since there is little temperature variation between these seasons, the question of which season is best for travel is not a simple one. The short answer would be November, when the rains have stopped but the landscape has not yet dried out. However, both seasons have something to recommend them. In the dry season, the country's predominately dirt secondary roads are easier to navigate -- some roads are impassible without a four-wheel-drive during the rainy season -- and, well, it's not raining. In the rainy season, on the other hand, El Salvador's environment is at its most lush and alive. Rainy season also doesn't necessarily mean all-day downpours: The country's highest elevations do receive daily rain and are often covered in a misty fog, but rainy season in the lower elevations can mean little more than daily afternoon showers.

Temperatures throughout El Salvador vary more according to elevation than season. The beaches and San Salvador can get up into the high 80s°F (low 30s°C) year-round, with even higher heat waves in the summer, while the coldest mountains can fall to near freezing, with averages of 54° to 73°F (12°-23°C) year-round. The coldest month is December, and the hottest month is May.

Public Holidays -- Public holidays in El Salvador include New Year's Day (Jan 1); Semana Santa (Holy Thurs-Easter Sun); Labor Day (May 1); the Festival of El Salvador (Aug 1-6, though the rest of Aug remains a busy vacation season); Independence Day (Sept 15); Día de la Raza (Oct 12); All Souls' Day (Nov 2); and Christmas celebrations (Dec 24, 25, and 31).

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Health & Safety

The most common travel ailments in El Salvador are diarrhea and food-born stomach upset. To stay healthy, be sure to drink only bottled water and ice you know to be purified, and stick to established restaurants. Dengue fever, known as "broken bones disease," is also on the rise in El Salvador. There is a low risk of malaria in El Salvador, centered mainly in rural areas of high immigration near the Guatemalan border.

Vaccinations -- The only vaccination necessary to enter El Salvador is yellow fever, which is required only for persons 6 months or older coming from high-risk tropical areas. Those traveling from the U.S. and Europe do not need the vaccination, and the World Health Organization does not recommend it. However, it's a good idea to consult your personal physician before leaving home to make sure that all of your regular inoculations are up-to-date, as many diseases that are all but wiped out in other parts of the world still exist in El Salvador. The CDC recommends getting shots for hepatitis A and B, typhoid, measles, rubella, mumps, rabies, and tetanus. It's best to consult a travel clinic 4 weeks prior to travel to check your vaccination history and discuss your itinerary.

Tips for a Strong Stomach

Most travel illnesses start in our delicate North American and European digestive systems, and what you put in your mouth is all-important if you want to stay healthy. Below are some tips on how to avoid a holiday in the restroom:

• Make sure any meat you eat is hot and well cooked.
• Keep your hands clean with frequent washing.
• Make sure any dairy products you try are pasteurized.
• Avoid salads and raw fish.
• Keep flies away from your dish, your glass or bottle, and the table.
• Do not leave food lying around, as this attracts germ-bearing flies.
• Avoid tap water (unless it's been boiled) and ice cubes (unless made from purified or boiled water).
• Eat only fruit that you have peeled yourself.

Safety

El Salvador's reputation for gang violence is warranted. It has the highest homicide rate in the world (excluding Iraq), and the crime wave there has been likened to a low-level war. However, such an image will contrast strongly with your experience of the country's friendly, peace-loving people. The fact is, there are two El Salvadors: the beautiful, fascinating destination that has you reading this guide and a darker, hidden society of poor ghettoes and warring tattooed youths. Thankfully, the two never meet. Travelers rarely experience anything worse than being pick-pocketed or distracted in some way and relieved of a backpack (and even this is rare). Gun crime is usually confined to the shantytowns and poor barrios, and rarely affects tourists. In my experience, the more budget-oriented you are, the more vulnerable you are to such theft -- a public chicken bus is not as safe as a private shuttle, for example.

Before you depart, check for travel advisories from the U.S. State Department (www.travel.state.gov), the Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.voyage.gc.ca), the U.K. Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel), and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfat.gov.au/embassies.html).

Once you're there, keep some common-sense safety advice in mind: Stay alert and be aware of your surroundings; don't walk down dark, deserted streets; and always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Keep your passport and credit cards on your person (but not stuffed in your back pocket). Theft at airports and bus stations is not unheard of, so be sure to put a lock on your luggage. Rental cars generally stick out and are easily spotted by thieves.

Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, when the bus makes a stop, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times.

Visitor Information

El Salvador's helpful national tourism organization, CORSATUR, has a useful English-language website—elsalvador.travel—a central office in San Salvador, and offices in Suchitoto in the north, Nahuizalco on the Ruta de las Flores, and Puerto de La Libertad along the Balsamo Coast; see CORSATUR addresses below.

Alternatively, you can always head to the local city hall, called the alcaldía, where you'll find the occasional English-speaking employee who can help you out. It's best to do as much research as possible before arriving in El Salvador because most towns don't have tourism offices or English-speaking tourism officials.

If you speak Spanish, some of the country's best sources for local information are the Casas de la Cultura, or Houses of Culture. Nearly every town in El Salvador has a Casa de la Cultura, which serves as a small community center, in addition to dishing out tourist-friendly information. They're not designated tourism offices, so the quality of the information is hit-and-miss, but they're by far your best shot at getting local information in the country's smaller villages.

Other valuable tourism organizations include the following:

SalvaNatura (33 Av. Sur 640, Colonia Flor Blanca, San Salvador; tel. 503/2279-1515; www.salvanatura.org) administers and provides information for Parque Imposible and Parque Nacional Los Volcanes. It's open Monday to Friday from 8am to noon and 2 to 5pm. Staffer Ben Rivera speaks English.

Institute Salvadoreño de Turismo (ISTU; 719 Calle Rubén Darío btw. 9a and 11a Av. Sur, San Salvador; tel. 503/2222-8000; www.istu.gob.sv) provides information about El Salvador's parks and has a great website. It's open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to 3:30pm.

Ministerio de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales (Km 5.5 Carretera a Santa Tecla, Calle and Colonia Las Mercedes, Building MARN No. 2, San Salvador; tel. 503/2267-6276; www.marn.gob.sv) is the organization you have to call to enter Parque Montecristo.

Passing by the Turicentro

Don't let the name "Turicentro" or "Tourist Center" fool you. You'll see signs for these outdated parks near towns, lakes, and mountains around El Salvador, but they're nothing special. Though some have pools, and small restaurants or comedores, they're usually decades-old parks with cement picnic tables and chairs painted in 1970s colors with a few cinder-block cabins. Turicentros are open daily 8am to 4pm and cost $1 to enter. They are run by the Instituto Salvadoreño de Turismo (ISTU; 719 Calle Rubén Darío btw. 9a and 11a Av. Sur; tel. 503/2222-8000; www.istu.gob.sv).

CORSATUR Offices

San Salvador: Century Tower Building, 10th level, 243 Boulevard Sergio Vieira de Mello, Colonia San Benito, San Salvador (tel. 503/76024722; Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm).

Puerto La Libertad: Malecon, Puerta de La Libertad, La Libertad, El Salvador (tel. 503/2346-1634; cat.lalibertad@gmail.com; Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat and Sun 9am-1pm).

Nahuizalco: Km 71 Carretera CA-8, Nauizalco, Departmento de Sonsonate (tel. 503/2453-1082; cat.rutasdelasflores@gmail.com; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-4pm). No one in this office speaks English, but they do offer some English-speaking hotel and attraction brochures.

Suchitoto: Calle San Martín, Barrio El Centro, Suchitoto, Departmento Custcatlán, El Salvador (tel. 503/2335-1835; cat.suchitoto@gmail.com; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat and Sun 8am-4pm). Ask for Manuel Selada.

La Palma: 1a Calle Pte, La Palma, Departmento La Palma, El Salvador (tel. 503/2335-9076; cat.lapalma@gmail.com; Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, Sat and Sun 9am-1pm). This small office close to the town square has a friendly staff and lots of literature on the area.

Tips for Single Travelers

Like most other destinations, you'll pay a premium if you're traveling alone in El Salvador, and most tour prices are based on groups of two to four people. Many hotels offer single travelers a discounted rate on a double room (known as tarifa sencilla).

Getting There

By Plane

El Salvador's only international airport is Comalapa International Airport or Cuscatlán International Airport (SAL; tel. 503/2339-9455; www.cepa.gob.sv/aies/index.php), 44km (27 miles) south of San Salvador. It is a major, 17-gate international hub with daily flights from the United States, Canada, Europe, and South America. Cuscatlán also serves as the main hub for primary Central and South American carrier Grupo Taca. The airport serves more than 2 million passengers per year and includes numerous rental-car companies, hotel information booths, duty-free shops, and restaurants. All departing international passengers must pay a $32 departure tax, although this may already be included in your flight ticket.

From North America -- American, Continental, Delta, and Taca offer flights from the United States. American flies out of Miami, Los Angeles, and Dallas/Fort Worth. Continental flies to and from Houston and Newark. Delta Airlines flies out of Atlanta. Taca Airlines stops in Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, and Washington, D.C. TACA, Delta, Continental, and Northwest offer flights from Canada to San Salvador, too.

From the United Kingdom, Australia & New Zealand -- There are no direct overseas flights from the U.K., Australia, or New Zealand. You'll need to fly first into the United States -- many European flights route out of Miami or Houston to San Salvador.

By Bus

Central America's major luxury bus carrier, Tica Bus (tel. 503/2243-9764; www.ticabus.com) offers air-conditioned buses to San Salvador from Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala, Mexico, Costa Rica, and Panama, with prices ranging from $20 each way to Guatemala to $95 each way to Panama. Tica arrives into San Salvador's San Benito Terminal (Blvd. el Hipódromo, Local #301, Colonia San Benito; tel. 503/2243-9764).

The bus company King Quality (tel. 503/2271-1361; www.king-qualityca.com), which also features modern, air-conditioned buses, travels to San Salvador from Guatemalan cities such as Antigua and Guatemala City, as well as San José, Costa Rica. Prices range from $35 to $67. King Quality buses arrive into San Salvador's Puerto Bus Terminal (Alameda Juan Pablo II at 19a Av. Norte; tel. 503/2222-2158).

Finally, the company Pullmantur (tel. 503/2243-1300; www.pullmantur.com) offers $35 to $52 trips from Guatemala City to the Hotel Sheraton Presidente in San Salvador (Av. La Revolución, Colonia San Benito; tel. 800/325-3535).

By Boat or Ferry

Private charters make the trip to La Unión on the eastern Pacific coast of El Salvador from points in Honduras and Nicaragua; visit www.elsalvador.travel for details. A ferry cruise journeys about once a month to La Unión from Amapala, Honduras. Check with the navy post in La Unión (tel. 503/2406-0348) for details.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

El Salvador is not well equipped for travelers with disabilities. Where elevators exist, they are often tiny. Many city streets are crowded, narrow, and badly maintained, and public buses so frenetic that even able-bodied people have scarcely time to board before the driver roars off. The nature of the terrain means that climbing in and out of small buses and boats will be challenging.

Yet travelers with disabilities will not feel out of place in El Salvador, as the country has its fair share of people with mobility issues, and able-bodied locals will always be eager to help. Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org) is an organization that sets up exchange programs between people with disabilities. There are more resources out there than ever before. Check out MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (SATH; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), which offers a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

Insurance

Medical Insurance

For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or trip cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out to be cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Tips for Families

Your kids will have a ball in El Salvador, especially if you choose the kid-friendly accommodations, restaurants, and attractions throughout this guide. All-inclusive resorts on the Balsamo Coast and the Costa del Sol are the obvious choices, but the country throws up some surprise attractions, such as the excellent children's museum in San Salvador. Restaurants and tour operators are child-friendly, though you may have problems on public transportation such as buses, which are uncomfortable for everybody, never mind an energetic 5-year-old.

A handful of hotels give discounts for children 11 and under, or allow children under 3 or 4 years old to stay for free. Discounts and cutoff ages vary according to the hotel, but in general, don't assume that your kids can stay in your room for free. Hotels offering regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between. If you will need babysitting, make sure your hotel offers it before you make your reservation.