Europe / Italy / Tuscany and Umbria / Elba / Best Restaurants

Emanuele

Behind a deceptive beach-bum bar facade snuggled into the beach at the Enfola headland, friendly family-run Emanuel excels at marrying the pick of the ocean with fresh pastas and seasonal vegetables. Reserve ahead for one of a few shaded tables in the pocket-size courtyard, just feet from the waves lapping at the pebble beach. The garganelli branzino e verdure (sea bass scented with rosemary and tossed with zucchini, carrots, oil, and a bit of peperoncino) is outstanding, as is the simple tagliolini bottarga e carciofi (thin pasta strands twirled with grated tuna roe and artichoke hearts). For a secondo, have them grill or oven-roast the catch of the day pulled in by local fishermen that morning, or try the island specialty totani alla diavola (small cuttlefish cooked up with oil and hot peppers).