Don't expect the diversions and distractions of Lisbon -- sleepy Elvas simply doesn't have them. Instead, consider a stroll through the town's historic core, looking for likable tascas (bars). Or, head less than 1km (about 3/4 mile) west of town to the Albergaria Jardim, Estrada Nacional 4 (tel. 26/862-10-50; www.albergariajardim.com). Local residents who come to drink and socialize fill this handsome pub.

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