Planning a trip to England

Fast Facts

American Express -- There are outlets at Heathrow Airport including at Terminal 4 (tel. 020/8897-0134) and at Terminal T3 (tel. 020/8759-6845). There is also an American Service Express Travel Service in London at 78 Brompton Rd., Knightsbridge, SW3 (tel. 020/761-7905). In Wales, the Amex office is at 3 Queen St. in Cardiff (tel. 02920/649305).

Area Codes -- The country code for England and Wales is 44. The area code for London is 020; Cardiff's area code is 029.

Business Hours -- With many, many exceptions, business hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. In general, stores are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm. In country towns, there is usually an early closing day (often Wed or Thurs), when the shops close at 1pm.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18. Children 15 and younger aren't allowed in pubs, except in certain rooms, and then only when accompanied by a parent or guardian. Don't drink and drive. Penalties are stiff.

Breaking decades of tradition, England in 2005 abandoned its strict, often draconian, liquor laws, allowing 24-hour alcohol sales in England and Wales. Many pubs no longer close at 11pm, which used to be "last call." Of course, it's up to the publican, but many, if they elect to do so, could stay open day and night. It's not total nirvana for the pub owners, however. Some counties are stationing undercover officers in pubs to fine staff members who serve liquor to visibly drunk customers, and the problems of drunk drivers on the highway, policemen fear, will only increase.

Drugstores -- In Britain, they're called "chemists." Every police station in the country has a list of emergency chemists. Dial "0" (zero) and ask the operator for the local police, who will give you the name of one nearest you.

Electricity -- British electricity is 240 volts AC (50 cycles), roughly twice the voltage in North America, which is 115 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles). American plugs don't fit British wall outlets. Always bring suitable transformers and/or adapters -- if you plug an American appliance directly a European electrical outlet without a transformer, you'll destroy your appliance and possibly start a fire. Electronic equipment with motors intended to revolve at a fixed number of revolutions per minute probably won't work properly even with transformers.

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy is at 24 Grosvenor Sq., London, W1 (tel. 020/7499-9000; www.usembassy.org.uk; Tube: Bond St.). Hours are Monday to Friday 8am to 5:30pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm. However, for passport and visa information, go to the U.S. Passport and Citizenship Unit, 55-56 Upper Grosvenor St., London, W1 (tel. 020/7894-0563; Tube: Marble Arch or Bond St.). Passport and Citizenship Unit hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 12:30pm.

The Canadian High Commission, Macdonald House, 38 Grosvenor St., London, W1 (tel. 020/7258-6600; www.international.gc.ca/Canada-europa/united_kingdom; Tube: Bond St.), handles visas for Canada. Hours are Monday to Friday 8 to 11am for immigration services, and 9:30am to 1:30pm for passports.

The Australian High Commission is at Australia House, the Strand, London, WC2 (tel. 020/7379-4334; www.australia.org.uk; Tube: Charing Cross or Aldwych). Hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm; for immigration services, hours are 9 to 11am, and for passports, 9:30am to 3:30pm.

The New Zealand High Commission is at New Zealand House, 80 Haymarket at Pall Mall, London, SW1 (tel. 020/7930-8422; www.nzembassy.com; Tube: Charing Cross or Piccadilly Circus). Hours are Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm.

The Irish Embassy is at 17 Grosvenor Place, London, SW1 (tel. 020/7235-2171; http://ireland.embassyhomepage.com; Tube: Hyde Park Corner). Hours are Monday to Friday 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.

Emergencies -- Dial 999 for police, fire, or ambulance. Give your name, address, and telephone number and state the nature of the emergency.

Holidays -- Britain observes New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Monday, May Day (first Mon in May), spring and summer bank holidays (the last Mon in May and Aug, respectively), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Hot Lines -- These emergency numbers exist in London. If you're in some sort of substance abuse or legal emergency, call Release (tel. 020/7729-9904), open Monday to Friday 11am to 1pm. The Rape and Sexual Abuse Hotline (tel. 0845/122-1331) is open daily, Monday to Friday noon to 2:30pm and 7 to 9:30pm, and on weekends and bank holidays 2:30 to 5pm. Alcoholics Anonymous (tel. 020/7833-0022) answers its help line daily 10am to 10pm. For issues related to sexual health and sexually transmitted diseases, call the Sexual Health Information Line at tel. 0800/567-123.

Internet Access -- It's hard nowadays to find a city that doesn't have a few cybercafes. Although there's no definitive directory for cybercafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- two places to start looking are at www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Legal Aid -- The American Services section of the U.S. Embassy will give you advice if you run into trouble abroad. They can advise you of your rights and will even provide a list of attorneys (for which you'll have to pay if services are used). But they cannot interfere on your behalf in the legal process of Great Britain. For questions about American citizens who are arrested abroad, including ways of getting money to them, telephone the Citizens Emergency Center of the Office of Special Consulate Services in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/647-5225). Citizens of other nations should go to their London-based consulate for advice.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. American cardholders can call the toll-free numbers below in case of an emergency -- Visa at tel. 0800/891-725, American Express at tel. 0800/587-6023, and MasterCard at tel. 020/7557-5000 (the latter is not a toll-free number).

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- An airmail letter to North America costs 56p ($1.12) for 10 grams; postcards also require a 56p ($1.12) stamp; letters generally take 7 to 10 days to arrive in the United States. The British postal system is among the most reliable in the world so you don't need to depend on Federal Express or some other carrier unless you're in a great hurry.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In London the Times, Daily Telegraph, Daily Mail, and Guardian are dailies carrying the latest news. The International Herald Tribune, published in Paris, and an international edition of USA Today, beamed via satellite, are available daily (USA Today is printed as a newsletter). Copies of Time and Newsweek are sold at most newsstands. Magazines such as Time Out and Where contain useful information about the latest happenings in London.

Police -- Dial tel. 999 if the matter is serious. Losses, thefts, and other criminal matters should be reported to the police immediately.

Smoking -- As of July 1, 2007, a smoking ban went into effect in England. Smoking is now banned in all indoor public places such as pubs, restaurants, clubs, and hotels, although hotels can set aside some rooms for smokers.

Taxes -- To encourage energy conservation, the British government levies a 25% tax on gasoline (petrol). There is also a 19.5% national value-added tax (VAT) that is added to all hotel and restaurant bills and is included in the price of many items you purchase. This can be refunded if you shop at stores that participate in the Retail Export Scheme (signs are posted in the window).

Time -- Britain follows Greenwich Mean Time (5 hr. ahead of Eastern Standard Time). For most of the year, including summer, Britain is 5 hours ahead of the time observed in the Eastern United States. Because of different daylight saving time practices in the two nations, there's a brief period (about a week) in autumn when Britain is only 4 hours ahead of New York and a brief period in spring when it's 6 hours ahead of New York.

Tipping -- For cabdrivers, add about 10% to 15% to the fare on the meter. However, if the driver loads or unloads your luggage, add something extra.

In hotels, porters receive 75p ($1.50) per bag, even if you have only one small suitcase. Hall porters are tipped only for special services. Maids receive £1 ($2) per day. In top-ranking hotels, the concierge will often submit a separate bill showing charges for newspapers and other items; if he or she has been particularly helpful, tip extra.

Hotels often add a service charge of 10% to 15% to most bills. In smaller bed-and-breakfasts, the tip is not likely to be included. Therefore, tip people for special services, such as the waiter who serves you breakfast. If several people have served you in a bed-and-breakfast, you may ask that 10% to 15% be added to the bill and divided among the staff.

In both restaurants and nightclubs, a 15% service charge is added to the bill, which is distributed among all the help. To that, add another 3% to 5%, depending on the service. Waiters in deluxe restaurants and nightclubs are accustomed to the extra 5%. Sommeliers (wine stewards) get about £1 ($2) per bottle of wine served. Tipping in pubs isn't common, but in wine bars, the server usually gets about 75p ($1.50) per round of drinks.

Barbers and hairdressers expect 10% to 15%. Tour guides expect £2 ($4), though it's not mandatory. Gas station attendants are rarely tipped, and theater ushers don't expect tips.

Toilets -- They're marked by PUBLIC TOILETS signs in streets, parks, and Tube stations; many are automatically sterilized after each use. The English often call toilets "loos." You'll also find well-maintained lavatories in all larger public buildings, such as museums and art galleries, large department stores, and railway stations. It's not really acceptable to use the lavatories in hotels, restaurants, and pubs if you're not a customer, but we can't say that we always stick to this rule. Public lavatories are usually free, but you may need a small coin to get in or to use a proper washroom.

Money

London is becoming one of the most expensive cities on the planet, far more expensive than New York (Brits now view the Big Apple as a bargain basement). London is not as expensive as Tokyo or Oslo, but even an average hotel rate can cost £100 or more -- in many cases, much, much more.

You'll avoid lines at airport ATMs by exchanging at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal). You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or at your bank. American Express also dispenses traveler's checks and foreign currency via www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/673-3782, but they'll charge a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website, such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic, to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Pounds & Pence

Britain's decimal monetary system is based on the pound (£), which is made up of 100 pence (written as "p"). Pounds are also called quid by Britons. There are £1 and £2 coins, as well as coins of 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p. Bank notes come in denominations of £5, £10, £20, and £50.

ATMs

ATMs, sometimes referred to as "cash machines" or "cashpoints," are widely available in Britain, certainly in all cities and bigger towns, and even at a bank or two in smaller places. But don't always count on it. If you're venturing into rural England, it's always good to have pounds in your pocket.

The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

There are problems involved in the use of ATMs. For example, if you make a mistake and punch your secret code wrong into the machine three times, that machine will swallow your card on the assumption that it is being fraudulently used.

Users with alphabetical rather than numerical PINs may be thrown off by the lack of letters on English cash machines. If your PIN is longer than four digits, check with your bank to see if you can use the first four digits; if not, you will have to get a new number for use in Britain.

To get a cash advance by using a credit card at an ATM, ask for a PIN from your credit card company, such as Visa, before leaving your home country.

Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money, but their use has become more difficult, especially in England . They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can usually withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

There is almost no difference in the acceptance of a debit or a standard credit card.

More and more places in England are moving from the magnetic strip credit card to the new system of "Chip and Pin." With these cards, you must enter a four-digit PIN on a keypad when making a transaction.

In the changeover in technology, some retailers have falsely concluded that they can no longer take swipe cards, or can't take signature cards that don't have PINs. For the time being both the new and old cards are used in shops, hotels, and restaurants regardless of whether they have the old credit and debit cards machines or the new Chip and Pin machines installed. Expect a lot of confusion before you arrive in England or elsewhere.

Warning: Some establishments in Britain might not accept your credit card unless you have a computer chip imbedded in it. The reason? To cut down on credit card fraud.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks, and they are widely accepted in England, although frankly merchants prefer cash. Because of difficulties with credit cards or ATMs that can reject your card for no apparent reason, travelers are once again buying traveler's checks for security in case something goes wrong with their plastic. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts AmEx gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee) and Visa (tel. 800/732-1322). American Automobile Association members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for information on MasterCard traveler's checks.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost -- you'll get your refund faster.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Many London hotels, museums, restaurants, and sightseeing attractions have wheelchair ramps, less so in rural England. Persons with disabilities are often granted special discounts -- called "concessions" in Britain -- at attractions and, in some cases, nightclubs. Free information and advice is available from Holiday Care Service, The Hawkins Suite, Enham Place, Andover SP11 6JS (tel. 0845/124-9971; fax 0845/124-9972; www.holidaycare.org.uk).

Many bookstores in London carry Access in London (www.accessinlondon.org), a publication listing facilities for persons with disabilities, among other things.The transport system, cinemas, and theaters are still pretty much off-limits, but Transport for London publishes a leaflet called Access to the Underground, which gives details of elevators and ramps at individual Underground stations; call tel. 020/7222-1234 or visit www.tfl.gov.uk. And London Black Cab (tel. 0845/108-3000; www.londonblackcab.com) vehicles are perfectly suited for those in wheelchairs; the roomy interiors have plenty of room for maneuvering.

London's most visible organization for information about access to theaters, cinemas, galleries, museums, and restaurants is Artsline, 54 Chalton St., London NW1 1HS (tel. 020/7388-2227; fax 020/7383-2653; www.artsline.org.uk). It offers free information about wheelchair access, theaters with hearing aids, tourist attractions, and cinemas. Artsline mails information to North America, but it's more helpful to contact Artsline once you arrive in London; the line is staffed Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 215/663-6000; www.mossresourcenet.org/travel.htm), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs; and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services. Air Ambulance Card (tel. 877/424-7633; www.airambulancecard.com) allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

Check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), published by SATH.

Information for travelers with disabilities going to Wales is available from Disability Wales, Bridge House, Caerphilly Business Park, Van Road, Caerphilly CF83 3GW (tel. 029/2088-7325; www.disabilitywales.org). The staff can tell you about facilities suitable in touring, accommodations, restaurants, cafes, pubs, public restrooms, attractions, and other phases of hospitality to make a trip pleasurable.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All U.S. citizens, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and South Africans must have a passport with at least 2 months' validity remaining. No visa is required. A passport will allow you to stay in the country for up to 6 months. The immigration officer will also want proof of your intention to return to your point of origin (usually a round-trip ticket) and of visible means of support while you're in Britain. If you're planning to fly from the United States or Canada to the United Kingdom and then on to a country that requires a visa (India, for example), you should secure that visa before you arrive in Britain.

Your valid driver's license and at least 1 year of driving experience are required to drive personal or rented cars.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the toll-free number of the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.smarttraveler.gov.au.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic, particularly cholera or yellow fever, inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.K.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Britain -- Non-E.U. nationals 18 years and over can bring in, duty-free, 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of smoking tobacco. This amount is doubled if you live outside Europe. You can also bring in 2 liters of wine and either 1 liter of alcohol more than 22% by volume or 2 liters of wine less than 22% by volume. In addition, you can bring in 60cc (2 oz.) of perfume and a quarter liter (250ml) of eau de toilette. Visitors 15 and older may also bring in other goods totaling £145; the allowance for those 14 and younger is £73. (Customs officials tend to be lenient about general merchandise, realizing the limits are unrealistically low.)

You can bring your pet cat, dog or ferret if it meets certain guidelines, such as proper documentation and vaccinations. An illegally imported animal may be destroyed. To see the complete list of requirements, check here.

What You Can Take Home from Britain -- U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 703/526-4200), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/622-6232 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Be advised that in Britain you often have to be a member of an association to get senior discounts. Public-transportation discounts, for example, are available only to holders of British Pension books. However, many attractions do offer discounts for seniors (women 60 or older and men 65 or older). Even if discounts aren't posted, ask if they're available.

If you're older than 60, you're eligible for special 10% discounts on British Airways through its Privileged Traveler program. You also qualify for reduced restrictions on APEX cancellations. Discounts are also granted for BA tours and for intra-Britain air tickets booked in North America. BritRail offers seniors discounted rates on first-class rail passes around Britain.

Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but carry some kind of identification that shows your date of birth. Also, mention you're a senior when you make your reservations. Many hotels offer seniors discounts. In most cities, people older than the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, and discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone older than 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

England is a land of beautiful landscapes beloved by painters such as Thomas Gainsborough and John Constable. Hikers find it one of the most rewarding terrains in Europe. So it only makes sense that long before most of the world became concerned with ecotourism, England took strides to maintain its "greenness."

More than three dozen districts of England have been designated as areas of natural beauty; in addition, England boasts 10 national parks, 12 national trails, and a protected coastline that stretches for miles and miles, including around the entire peninsula of Cornwall. Visitors in search of green spaces can choose from rolling hills, moorland, vast parks such as that in Derbyshire, and even huge "green lungs" in such city centers as London. For more information about these areas from Yorkshire to the West Country, go to www.enjoyengland.com.

If you'd like to explore the national parks, the best source of information is the Association of National Park Authorities at 126 Bute St., Cardiff CF10 5L3, in Wales (tel. 029/2049-9966; www.nationalparks.go.uk). This organization provides information for both Wales and England, from the Yorkshire Dales to Snowdonia in the north of Wales.

A trio of national parks in Wales covers around 20% of the land mass of this tiny country. With the addition of the South Downs and the New Forest, designated for preservation in 2011, 10% of the land mass in England and Wales combined will be part of the national park system.

Park officials offer advice on hiking and camping, and will steer you to festivals or special events being staged.

The Great Outdoor Recreation Page (www.gorp.com) offers the best and most up-to-date information on camping and otherwise getting the most out of the English countryside.

Before you go to England, contact Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethnics (P.O. Box 997, Boulder, CO 80306; www.int.org). It has drawn up a code for outdoor travelers to protect unspoiled landscapes, such as those found in the English countryside.

The Green Tourism Business Scheme (www.green-business.co.uk) lists numerous eco-friendly farmhouses, B&Bs, and lodges throughout England and Wales; many have received awards for their environmentally sensitive accommodations.

Another source for environmentally sensitive hotels is It's a Green Green World (www.itsagreengreenworld.com). It previews green accommodations throughout England, ranging from an organic farmhouse B&B in the east of England dating from the 19th century to an eco-friendly manor house on the North Norfolk coastline. Visitors can even rent English "eco cottages" that are powered by the wind and sun.

Those who want to further reduce the size of their carbon footprint can travel through England on bike. For details on cycling through England, contact U.K.'s National Cyclists Organization at their national headquarters at CTC, Parklands, Railton Rd. Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX (tel. 0844/736-8450; www.ctc.org.uk).

If you don't want to explore green England on your own, you can take part in an eco-friendly tour. Ranging from canoeing to kayaking, from mountain climbing to archaeological digs, the best source for organized adventure trips is Specialty Travel Index, P.O. Box 458, San Anselmo, CA 94979 (tel. 888/624-4030; www.specialtytravel.com). The group's round-up of trips has been praised by Condé Nast Traveller. Under "British Connection" (www.thebritishconnection.com), you'll find garden tours, literary tours (Jane Austen to Agatha Christie), and various history and archaeological tours, including one that grants private access to Stonehenge.

The true green traveler, who wants to leave England's environment better than he or she found it, might want to contact Volunteering England (tel. 0845/305-6979; www.volunteering.org.uk), the best source for volunteer projects. The outdoors traveler will be especially interested in the group's efforts to save both the landscapes and wildlife of North England, an area facing depopulation of certain species and in serious danger of forest erosion.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you give is truly going back to the local community and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and nature of a volunteer program in England.

Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems linked to tourism in the U.K. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making U.K. holidays sustainable.

Finally, the Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA; www.abta.com) acts as a focal point for the U.K. travel industry and is one of the leading groups spearheading responsible tourism in Britain.

Rambler's Right of Way -- One of the most sustainable ways to explore England is on foot, and doing so was made easier in 2000, when the country passed the Rights of Way Act, granting countryside ramblers access to open land even if it is held by a private owner. Of course, all walkers must leave the land as they find it, including carrying out all trash and personal belongings.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call England from North America, dial 011 (international code), 44 (Britain's country code), the local area codes (usually three or four digits and found in every phone number we've given in this guide), and the local phone number. The local area codes found throughout this guide all begin with "0"; you drop the "0" if you're calling from outside Britain, but you need to dial it along with the area code if you're calling from another city or town within Britain. For calls within the same city or town, the local number is all you need.

For directory assistance in London, dial tel. 142; for the rest of Britain, tel. 192.

Within the U.K., despite the growing prevalence of mobile phones, you'll still find at least three kinds of public pay phones: Those relatively old-fashioned models that accept only coins; those accepting only prepaid phone cards; and those accepting both phone cards and credit cards. Note: The "old-fashioned" phone boxes with the royal coat of arms and the bright red coats of paint tend to be maintained by British Telecom and fall into the latter of these three categories. And those telephones that accept such credit cards as Access/MasterCard, Visa, American Express, and Diners Club tend to be most common at airports and large railway stations.

In a "confrontation" with a coin-operated phone, insert your (British) coins before dialing, with the understanding that the minimum charge these days even for calls placed to destinations within the same neighborhood will begin at 30p -- more, prorated per call, than equivalent calls paid for with a phone card.

Phone cards are issued throughout the U.K. by a wide variety of corporate issuers, and with a wide variety of denominations that begin at £2.50 to as much as £50 or higher. Each is reusable until the card's total value has been electronically depleted. Phone cards are sold in post offices, newsstands, and within large retail supermarkets, including branches of Tesco's and Sainsbury's.

To make an international call from Britain, dial the international access code (00), then the country code, then the area code, and finally the local number. Or call through one of the following long-distance access codes: AT&T USA Direct (tel. 1800/CALL-ATT [225-5288]), Canada Direct (tel. 0800/890016), Australia (tel. 0800/890061), and New Zealand (tel. 0800/890064). Common country codes are: U.S. and Canada, 1; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64; and South Africa, 27.

For calling collect, or if you need an international operator, dial tel. 155.

Caller beware: Some hotels routinely add outrageous surcharges onto phone calls made from your room. Inquire before you call! It may be a lot cheaper to use your own calling-card number or to find a pay phone.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout England and dozens of other countries worldwide. In general, reception is good. But you'll need a SIM (Subscriber Identity Module) card specific to England that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high. Calls to the U.S. average 70p per minute.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Depending on your business obligations in the U.K., your lifestyle, and your phone habits, buying a phone might be economically attractive, as the U.K. is one of the most phone-permeated societies in the world and local competition for your cellphone loyalty is fierce. Once you arrive, stop by a local cellphone shop (T-Mobile, Virgin, Vodafone, and British Telecom all maintain their respective outlets) and compare their cheapest packages. In some case, buying a no-frills cellphone (at this writing, an example of that was a Nokia 6210) might cost as little as £30, and in some cases, depending on the promotion of the moment, might carry as much as £10 of prepaid minutes. From abroad, researching the wide array of options is a daunting task, indeed, but as a means of getting started in your search, click on www.britishtelecom.com.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.myskyp.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers in England are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.com/hotspot or www.t-mobile.co.uk) serves up wireless connections at coffee shops nationwide. Boingo (www.boingo.com) has networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. iPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in England, go to www.jiwire.com.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in England now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on "Individuals Buy Now." One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found in all large U.K. cities, especially London, where they can be found on almost every business street. easyInternet cafes (tel. 020/7241-9000; www.easyinternetcafe.com) has several Great Britain locations.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Internet kiosks appear within the public areas of every large and medium-size airport of the U.K. These usually provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee. More conveniently, if you have access to the business-class lounges of most airlines, including British Airways, Delta, American, Continental, and most of their competitors, free Internet stations are standard features within any of them.

Visitor Information

Before you go, you can obtain general information from Visit Britain (www.visitbritain.com):

• In the United States: 551 Fifth Ave., 7th Floor, New York, NY 10176-0799 (tel. 800/462-2748 or 212/986-2266).
• In Canada: Call tel. 888/VISITUK (847-4885).
• In Australia: Level 2, 15 Blue St., North Sydney 2060 (tel. 02/9021-4400).
• In New Zealand: Fay Richwite Blvd., 17th Floor, 151 Queen St., Auckland (tel. 0800/700-741).

For a full information package on London, write to Visit London, 2 More London Riverside, 6th Floor, Bermondsey SE1 2RR (tel. 020/7234-5800; www.visitlondon.co.uk).

Wales, like England, has a number of regional tourist offices, but the Visit Wales Centre is at the Brunel House, 2 Fitzalan Rd., Cardiff CF24 0UY (tel. 08701/211-255; www.visitwales.com). Detailed information is also available in London from the Wales Desk at the Britain Visitors Centre, 1 Regent St., London SW1Y 4XT (tel. 0207/808-3838).

Websites

The most useful site was created by a very knowledgeable source, the British Tourist Authority itself, with U.S. visitors targeted. A wealth of information can be tapped at www.visitbritain.com, which lets you order brochures online, provides trip-planning hints, and even allows e-mail questions for prompt answers. All of Great Britain is covered.

Go to www.baa.com for a guide and terminal maps for Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, and several other airports in the U.K., including flight arrival times, duty-free shops, airport restaurants, and info on getting from the London airports to downtown London. Getting around London can be confusing, so you may want to visit www.tfl.gov.uk for up-to-the-minute info on transportation.

You may also wish to check out one of the following websites. AOL members can type in the keyword "Britain" and find a vibrant guide to the U.K. that gives you the skinny on arts, dining, nightlife, and more. To access the AOL London guide, type in the keyword "London."

At www.britannia.com, you'll find much more than a travel guide -- it's chock-full of lively features, history, and regional profiles, including sections on Wales and King Arthur.

English Heritage (www.english-heritage.org.uk) has trip planning information, accommodations, and an attractions finder that allows you to search by region. The National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) provides a similar service with a searchable online attractions finder featuring castles, museums, natural wonders, and more. Many hotels and sites that don't have their own Web pages can be found in one of these two directories.

For the latest on London's theater scene, consult www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk.

Maps

Upon arriving in London, you should arm yourself with a detailed street map if you plan to do a lot of walking. London is a maze of narrow streets and "villages" within a vast city, and many addresses are obscure and hard to find.

Plot where you're going before setting out, or otherwise just walk and enjoy discovering London at your whimsy. It's amazing what you'll come across if you have endless time. Otherwise, plot your course so you can cram as much into a precious day as your limited time will allow.

If you plan to motor through England, arm yourself with a road atlas, especially one of the large format ones produced by AA, RAC, Collins, and Ordnance Survey. Virtually every motorway gas (petrol) station in England stocks one or more of the big road atlases.

At www.multimap.com, you can access detailed street maps of the whole United Kingdom -- just key in the location or even just the postal code, and a map of the area with the location circled will appear. For directions to specific places in London, consult www.streetmap.co.uk.

Getting Around

Maps

Upon arriving in London, you should arm yourself with a detailed street map if you plan to do a lot of walking. London is a maze of narrow streets and "villages" within a vast city, and many addresses are obscure and hard to find.

If you plan to motor through England, arm yourself with a road atlas, especially one of the large format ones produced by AA, RAC, Collins, and Ordnance Survey. Virtually every motorway gas (petrol) station in England stocks one or more of the big road atlases.

At www.multimap.com, you can access detailed street maps of the whole United Kingdom -- just key in the location or even just the postal code, and a map of the area with the location circled will appear. For directions to specific places in London, consult www.streetmap.co.uk.

By Train

A Eurailpass is not valid in Great Britain, but there are several special passes for train travel outside London. For railroad information, go to Rail Travel centers in the main London railway stations (Waterloo, Kings Cross, Euston, and Paddington).

You can download faxable order forms or order online from BritRail at www.britainontrack.com, or call tel. 888/667-9734.

BritRail Travel Passes -- BritRail passes allow unlimited travel in England, Scotland, and Wales on any British rail scheduled train over the whole of the network during the validity of the pass without restrictions. If you're traveling beyond London anywhere in the United Kingdom and plan to hop on and off the train, consider purchasing a BritRail Consecutive Pass. These passes allow you to travel for a consecutive number of days for a flat rate. In first class adults pay $395 for 4 days, $559 for 8 days, $839 for 15 days, $1,065 for 22 days, and $1,259 for 1 month. In second class, fares are $259 for 4 days, $375 for 8 days, $559 for 15 days, $709 for 22 days, and $839 for 1 month. Seniors (60 and older) qualify for discounts in first-class travel and pay $336 for 4 days, $475 for 8 days, $713 for 15 days, $905 for 22 days, and $1,070 for 1 month. Passengers 25 and younger qualify for a Youth Pass. In second class rates are $207 for 4 days, $300 for 8 days, $447 for 15 days, $567 for 22 days, and $671 for 1 month. One child (age 14 and younger) can travel free with each adult or senior pass when the BritRail Family Pass is requested while buying the adult pass. Additional children pay half the regular adult fare.

A more versatile pass is the BritRail FlexiPass, allowing you to travel when you want during a 2-month period of time. In first class, it costs $395 for 4 days, $575 for 8 days, and $865 for 15 days of travel. Second class costs $265 for 4 days, $385 for 8 days, and $579 for 15 days of travel.

A Freedom of Wales Flexi Pass allows you to discover the small country by bus and rail. The pass also offers 20% discounts on narrow-gauge railways. The pass costs £74. You're granted 4 days of rail travel and 8 days of bus travel. You can also inquire about passes granting more extended travel time. Check their website at www.walesflexipass.co.uk. More information is available from Arriva Trains Wales, St. Mary's House, Penarth Road, Cardiff CF10 5DJ (tel. 0845/6061-660; www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk).

For more information on train pass options and on rail vacation packages in England and the U.K., contact BritRail (tel. 866/2748-7245; www.britrail.com).Travelers who arrive from France by boat and pick up a BritRail train at Dover arrive at St. Pancras Station, in the center of London. Those journeying south by rail from Edinburgh arrive at Kings Cross Station.

By Bus

In Britain, a long-distance touring bus is called a "coach," and "buses" are taken for local transportation. An efficient and frequent express motorcoach network -- run by National Express and other independent operators -- links most of Britain's towns and cities. Destinations off the main route can be easily reached by transferring to a local bus at a stop on the route. Tickets are relatively cheap, often half the price of rail fare, and it's usually cheaper to purchase a round-trip (or "return") ticket than two one-way fares separately.

Victoria Coach Station, on Buckingham Palace Road (tel. 020/7730-3466), is the departure point for most large coach operators. The coach station is located just 2 blocks from Victoria Station. For 24-hour information, call tel. 020/7222-1234 (www.tfl.gov.uk). For cash purchases, get there at least 30 minutes before the coach departs.

National Express (tel. 0871/781-81-81; www.nationalexpress.com) runs long-distance coaches that are equipped with reclining seats, toilets, and nonsmoking areas. You can obtain details about all coach services by calling the company between 8am and 10pm daily. The National Express ticket office at Victoria Station is open from 6am to 11pm daily.

For journeys within a 56km (35-mile) radius of London, try Green Line coach service, 23-27 Endsleigh Rd., Merstham Redhill, Surrey RH1 3LX (tel. 0870/608-7261; www.greenline.co.uk).

Green Line has bus routes called Country Bus Lines that circle the periphery of London. Though they do not usually go directly into the center of the capital, they hook up with the routes of the Green Line coaches and red buses that do.

To the delight of the frugal traveler, a new no-frills bus service has been introduced in England. Megabus.com (tel. 08705/505050; 10p per min.) charges the lowest bus fares in the country -- only £1 to £5 for a single journey on any route. From London, popular stops include Oxford, Brighton, and the old port of Plymouth. The network uses double-decker buses that once rolled through the streets of Hong Kong. Reserve at www.megabus.com, which levies a booking charge of less than a U.S. dollar.

In Wales, 65 independent bus operators serve the little country. Public transport guides for local areas are available at tourist offices. One of the most important is Arriva Cymru (tel. 08448/004411; www.arriva.co.uk), servicing North Wales. The area around Cardiff is covered by Cardiff Bus (tel. 029/2066-6444; www.cardiffbus.com).

By Plane

British Airways (BA; tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297]) flies to more than 20 cities outside London, including Manchester.

To get to the heart of England quickly, visitors fly BA to Manchester, operating a dozen flights a day from London's Heathrow and seven daily flights from Gatwick.

By Car

There's no doubt about it, the best way to explore England, with its little villages and off-the-beaten path attractions, is by car. It's also the most expensive, far more so than the train or bus.

Because cars in Britain travel on the left side of the road, steering wheels are positioned on the "wrong" side of the vehicle. Keep in mind that most rental cars are manual, so be prepared to shift with your left hand; you'll pay more for an automatic -- and make sure to request one when you reserve.

Speed limits are generally 50 to 60kmph (30-40 mph) in heavily populated areas, or 110kmph (70 mph) on motorways or "dual carriage ways," as the English call double-lane highways.

In England you drive on the left and pass on the right. Road signs are clear and international symbols are used.

Warning: Pedestrian crossings are marked by striped lines (zebra striping) on the road; flashing lights near the curb indicate that drivers must stop and yield the right of way if a pedestrian has stepped out into the zebra zone to cross the street.It's a good idea to get a copy of the British Highway Code, available from almost any petrol or gas station or newsstand in Britain.

Breakdowns -- Membership in one of the two major auto clubs can be helpful: the Automobile Association (AA), at Norfolk House, Priestly Road, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG24 9NY (tel. 0870/5444-444; www.theaa.com), or the Royal Automobile Club (RAC), P.O. Box 700, Bristol, Somerset BS99 1RB (tel. 08000/966-999; www.rac.co.uk). You can join these clubs through your car-rental agent. (Members of AAA in the U.S. can enjoy reciprocity overseas.) There are roadside emergency telephone boxes about every mile along the motorways. If you don't see one, walk down the road for a bit to the blue-and-white marker with an arrow that points to the nearest box. The 24-hour number to call for the AA is tel. 0800/887-766; for the RAC, it's tel. 0800/82-82-82. In addition, you can call a police traffic unit that will contact either of the auto clubs on your behalf.

Even if you're not a member, you can call these organizations, though a substantial fee will be involved for nonmembers.

Gasoline -- There are plenty of gas ("petrol") stations in England and Wales, especially around cities and big towns and most definitely along the motorways. However, in remote areas they're often few and far between, and many are closed on Sunday. If you're planning a lot of Sunday driving in remote parts, always make sure your tank is full on Saturday.

Note that gasoline costs more in Britain than in North America, and to encourage energy saving, the government has imposed a 25% tax on gas.

Parking -- In overcrowded cities, such as London, parking has become a nightmare, and it costs a fortune. Touring English cities by car, especially London, is not recommended. Use public transportation. Even in small villages, parking can be a problem, especially in summer. There are just so many spaces.

In general, long- or short-stay car parks are cheaper than using city or town meters, which usually limit you to 2 hours. When you see a yellow line along the edge of a road, that means parking is restricted; refer to the nearest sign to read the conditions. A double yellow line indicates that parking is forbidden at all times.

Getting the Best Deal on Your Rental Car

The British car-rental market is among the most competitive in Europe. Nevertheless, car rentals are expensive, unless you avail yourself of one of the promotional deals that are frequently offered by British Airways and others. It's always cheaper to arrange a car in advance though one of the big chains such as Hertz or Avis. You might also look into a fly/drive deal.

Car-rental rates vary even more than airline fares. The price you pay depends on the size of the car, where and when you pick it up and drop it off, length of the rental period, where and how far you drive it, whether you purchase insurance, and a host of other factors. It's cheaper to rent a car with a stick shift; if you can't drive a stick shift, you can rent a vehicle with automatic drive, but invariably you'll pay more for this convenience.

The best car-rental deals are made in the off-season, as thousands upon thousands of potential motorists descend on Britain to drive its clogged highways and country lanes in fair weather.

For booking rental cars online, the best deals are usually found at rental-car company websites, although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservations services. Priceline and Hotwire work well for rental cars, too; the only "mystery" is which major rental company you get, and for most travelers the difference between Hertz, Avis, and Budget is negligible.

Virtually every kind of car imaginable is for rent in England, including an old Rolls-Royce discarded by the queen or a small little budget number from Japan that seats two uncomfortably.

Keep in mind that most companies will only rent to persons 23 years old and above. Many agencies will not rent to people age 70 or older.

Rentals are available through Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) is among the cheapest and most reliable of the rental agencies. AutoEurope (tel. 888/223-5555 in the U.S., or 0800/223-5555 in London; www.autoeurope.com) acts as a wholesale company for rental agencies in Europe.

When booking your rental car, a few key questions could save you hundreds of dollars:

• Are weekend rates lower than weekday rates? Ask if the rate is the same for pickup Friday morning, for instance, as it is for Thursday night.

When you reserve a car, make sure you find out the total price, including the 17.5% value-added tax (VAT).

Smart Insurance Tips -- Before you drive off in a rental car, be sure you're insured. Hasty assumption about your personal auto insurance or a rental agency's additional coverage could end up costing you tens of thousands of dollars -- even if you are involved in an accident that was clearly the fault of another driver.

U.S. drivers who already have their own car insurance are usually covered in the United States for loss of or damage to a rental car and liability in case of injury to any other party involved in an accident. But coverage probably doesn't extend outside the United States. Be sure to find out whether you are covered in England, whether your policy extends to all persons who will be driving the rental car, how much liability is covered in case an outside party is injured in an accident, and whether the type of vehicle you are renting is included under your contract. (Rental trucks, sport utility vehicles, and luxury vehicles, such as the Jaguar, may not be covered.)

Most major credit cards provide some degree of coverage as well -- provided they are used to pay for the rental. Terms vary widely, however, so be sure to call your credit card company directly before you rent. But though they will cover damage to or theft of your rental, credit cards will not cover liability or the cost of injury to an outside party and/or damage to an outside party's vehicle. If you do not hold an insurance policy or if you are driving outside the United States, you may want to seriously consider purchasing additional liability insurance from your rental company. Be sure to check the terms, however. Some rental agencies only cover liability if the renter is not at fault.

Bear in mind that each credit card company has its own peculiarities. Most American Express Optima cards, for instance, do not provide any insurance. American Express does not cover vehicles valued at over $50,000 when new, such as luxury vehicles or vehicles built on a truck chassis. MasterCard does not provide coverage for loss, theft, or fire damage, and only covers collision if the rental period does not exceed 15 days. Call your own credit card company for details.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Traveling to England doesn't pose any health risk. The tap water is safe to drink, the milk is pasteurized, and health services are good. The crisis regarding mad-cow disease is long over, as is the foot-and-mouth disease epidemic.

England has some of the greatest medical services in the world. And, get this, all the doctors speak English. It is easy to get over-the-counter medicine, and general equivalents of common prescription drugs are available throughout the British Isles.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home -- If you need a doctor, your hotel can recommend one, or you can contact your embassy or consulate. Outside London, dial tel. 100 and ask the operator for the local police, who will give you the name, address, and telephone number of a doctor in your area. Note: U.S. visitors who become ill while they're in Britain are eligible only for free emergency care. For other treatment, including follow-up care, you'll be asked to pay.

In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead.Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 888/633-4298 or 209/668-3333; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions, in case you lose your pills or run out. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Safety

Like all big cities, London has its share of crime, but in general it is one of the safer destinations of Europe. Pickpockets are a major concern, though violent crime is relatively rare, especially in the heart of London, which hasn't seen a Jack the Ripper in a long time. Even so, it is not wise to go walking in parks at night. In London, take all the precautions a prudent traveler would in going anywhere, be it Los Angeles, Paris, or New York. Conceal your wallet or else hold onto your purse, and don't flaunt jewelry or cash. In other words, do as your mother told you.

The same precautions prevail in larger cities such as Birmingham, Leeds, and Manchester. However, in rural Britain you are relatively safe, though if you watch a lot of murder mysteries on TV or read about them in paperbacks, there seem to be a lot of murders going on. Nonetheless, Britain is one of the safer destinations of the world, but the sensible precautions you would heed anywhere prevail, of course. In these uncertain times, it is always prudent to check the U.S. Department of State's travel advisories at http://travel.state.gov.

Motorists should know that sleeping in your car is not only potentially dangerous but also illegal in the U.K., and there are always perils linked to hitchhiking, which is not recommended.

Any unrest or protest demonstrations around London's Trafalgar Square should not concern the usual visitor, who is advised to stay out of the area during any demonstrations.

Local law-enforcement officials in Britain have a long history of being fair and impartial to visitors, even those from Third World or Middle Eastern countries. Unlike Germany, England seems to practice great tolerance, more so than parts of America. There is little racial, ethnic, or religious discrimination, including that of sexual orientation.

Women traveling alone encounter less aggressive or so-called macho behavior than they will find in such countries as Spain and Italy. Of course, discretion is always advised -- that is, don't get in a car with three lager louts at 2 o'clock in the morning.

Tips on Shopping

When shopping for the best buys in England, note that British goods, even products from Wales and Scotland, may offer sensational buys even when sold in England. You will also find Irish stores and Irish departments in some stores often selling merchandise at the same good value you'd find on a shopping trip to Ireland itself. Many French brands are actually less expensive in the United Kingdom than in France!

The Best Buys of Britain

When bargain hunting, focus on those goods that are manufactured in England and are liable to cost much more when exported. These include anything from The Body Shop to Doc Martens; many woolens and some cashmeres; most English brands of bone china; antiques, used silver, and rare books.

Antiques -- Whether you're looking for museum-quality antiques or simply fun junk, England has the stores, the resources, the stalls, and the markets. You can shop the fanciest of upmarket shops -- mostly in London, Bath, and the Cotswolds -- or browse through antiques shows, markets, fairs, buildings, centers, arcades, warehouses, jumble fairs, fetes, and car boot sales throughout the country. (A car boot sale is the British version of a yard sale. Participants set up tables at an abandoned parking lot or airfield to sell their goods.)

Actually, prices are better once you get outside of London. Entire towns and areas in Britain are known to be treasure troves for those seeking anything from architectural salvage to a piece of the Holy Grail. Whereas the Cotswolds and Bath are known as charming places to shop for antiques, there are warehouses in Suffolk, Merseyside, and in the Greater Manchester (Yorkshire and Lancashire) area that aren't glamorous but offer dealers and those in the know the best buys. Serious shoppers can head directly to the Manchester area, get a car or van, and just start shopping. The best hunting grounds are Boughton (right outside Chester), Liverpool, Prestwich, and Stockport. Harrogate and nearby Knaresborough are known for antiques, but they offer a far more upscale scene with prices competitive to those in the Cotswolds.

Aromatherapy -- The British must have invented aromatherapy -- just about every store sells gels, creams, lotions, or potions made with the right herbs and essential oils to cure whatever ails you, including jet lag. Whether it works or not is secondary to the fact that most of the British brands are half the U.S. price when bought on home soil. The Body Shop becomes the best store in the world at prices like these. Check out drugstore brands as well. Shoppers like The Body Shop knockoffs that Boots The Chemist makes, as well as their own line (sold in another part of the store) of healing foot gels. Both of these are national brands available all over the United Kingdom.

Basic Brit Gear -- Don't assume any bargains on woolens, cashmeres, tweeds, and the like -- often British quality is much higher than similar and less expensive goods available in the United States. If you want the best and expect it to last forever, you can't beat British-made, especially in gear that has been fine-tuned over the last century for the weather and outdoor lifestyle: from wax coats (Barbour is the leading status brand) to raincoats to guns (and English roses). While we can hardly put Doc Martens brand of shoes in the traditional Brit category, they do cost a lot less in Britain than in America.

Beauty Products -- Dime-store brands of makeup cost less than they do in the United States. The French line Bourjois (made in the same factories that produce Chanel makeup) costs less in London than in Paris and isn't sold in the United States; Boots makes its own Chanel knockoff line, Number 7.

Bone China -- Savings actually depend on the brand, but can be as much as 50% off U.S. prices. The trick is that shipping and U.S. duties may wipe out any savings; know what you're doing before you buy -- and how you plan to get it back. Don't forget factory outlets that sell seconds.

Designer This & That -- Designer clothing from any of the international makers may be less in London than in the United States or Paris, but know your prices. Often the only difference is the VAT refund, which at 15% to 17.5% is substantial. This game is also highly dependent on the value of the dollar.

While you won't get a VAT refund on used designer clothing, London has the best prices on used Chanel (and similar) clothing of any major shopping city.

Royal Souvenirs -- Forget about investing in Diana memorabilia; word is that it won't appreciate significantly because there was so much of it. Still, royal collectibles range from cheap kitsch bought in street markets to serious pieces from coronations long past found in specialist's shops. If you're buying new for investment purposes, it must be kept in mint condition.

Tapestry & Knitting -- For some reason, the English call needlepoint "tapestry." It's a passion, perhaps the seasonal flip side to gardening. Tapestry kits by the famous English designers, and Welsh queen of needles Elizabeth Bradley, cost a fraction of their U.S. prices when purchased anywhere in England or Wales.

Whereas England is famous for its sweaters (jumpers), what it should be famous for are the sweater kits: do-it-yourself jobs from the major designers that come with yarn, instructions, and a photo. English knitter-designers are cult heroes in Britain and do everything but knit autographs.

Regions in Brief

England is a part of the United Kingdom, which is made up of England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Only 130,347 sq. km (50,327 sq. miles) -- about the same size as New York State -- England has an amazing amount of rural land and natural wilderness and an astonishing regional, physical, and cultural diversity.

England

London -- Some seven million Londoners live in this mammoth metropolis, a parcel of land that's more than 1,577 sq. km (609 sq. miles) in size. The City of London proper is merely 2.5 sq. km (1 sq. mile), but the rest of the city is made up of separate villages, boroughs, and corporations.

The Thames Valley -- England's most famous river runs westward from Kew to its source in the Cotswolds. A land of meadows, woodlands, attractive villages, small market towns, and rolling hillsides, this is one of England's most scenic areas. Highlights include Windsor Castle (Elizabeth II's favorite residence) and nearby Eton College, founded by a young Henry VI in 1440. Henley, site of the Royal Regatta, remains our favorite Thames-side town; and at the university city of Oxford, you can tour the colleges.

The Southeast (Kent, Surrey & Sussex) -- This is the land of Charles Lamb, Virginia Woolf, Sir Winston Churchill, and Henry James. In this region are some of the nation's biggest attractions: Brighton, Canterbury, Dover, and dozens of country homes and castles -- not only Hever and Leeds castles, but also Chartwell, the more modest abode where Churchill lived. In small villages, such as Rye and Winchelsea in Sussex, you discover the charm of the southeast. Almost all of the Sussex shoreline is built up, and seaside towns, such as Eastbourne and Hastings, are often tacky. In fact, though the area's major attraction is Canterbury Cathedral, the Royal Pavilion at Brighton rates as an outstanding, extravagant folly. Tea shops, antiques shops, pubs, and small inns abound in the area. Surrey is essentially a commuter suburb of London and is easily reached for day trips.

Hampshire & Wiltshire -- Southwest of London, these counties possess two of England's greatest cathedrals, Winchester and Salisbury, and one of Europe's most significant prehistoric monuments, Stonehenge. Hampshire is bordered on its western side by the woodlands and heaths of New Forest. Portsmouth and Southampton loom large in naval heritage. You may also want to take a ferry over to the Isle of Wight, once Queen Victoria's preferred vacation retreat. In Wiltshire, you encounter the beginning of the West Country, with its scenic beauty and monuments. Here you'll find Wilton House, the 17th-century home of the earls of Pembroke, and Old Sarum, the remains of what is believed to have been an Iron Age fortification.

The Southwest (Dorset, Somerset, Devon & Cornwall) -- These four counties are the great vacation centers and retirement havens of England. Dorset, associated with Thomas Hardy, is a land of rolling downs, rocky headlands, well-kept villages, and rich farmlands. Somerset -- the Somerset of King Arthur and Camelot -- offers such magical towns as Glastonbury. Devon has both Exmoor and Dartmoor, and its northern and southern coastlines are peppered with famous resorts such as Lyme Regis and villages such as Clovelly. In Cornwall, you're never more than 32km (20 miles) from the rugged coastline, which ends at Land's End. Among the cities worth visiting in these counties are Bath, with its impressive Roman baths and Georgian architecture; Plymouth, the departure point of the Mayflower; and Wells, the site of a great cathedral.

The Cotswolds -- A wonderful region to tour, this is a pastoral land of honey-colored limestone villages where rural England unfolds before you like a storybook. In the Middle Ages, wool made the Cotswolders prosperous, but now they put out the welcome mat for visitors, with famously lovely inns and pubs. Start at Burford, the traditional gateway to the region, continue on to Bourton-on-the-Water, Lower and Upper Slaughter, Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton-in-Marsh, and Chipping Campden, and finish at Broadway. Cirencester is the uncrowned capital of the south Cotswolds, and Cheltenham is still an elegant Regency spa. Our two favorite villages are Painswick, with its minute cottages, and Bibury, with Arlington Row, its cluster of former weavers' cottages.

Stratford & Warwick -- This region encompasses both Shakespeare country and the Midlands. The Midlands was the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, which made Britain the first industrialized country in the world. Its foremost tourist town is Stratford-upon-Avon, but also drawing visitors are Warwick Castle, one of England's great castles, and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle. Coventry, heavily bombed in World War II, is visited mainly for its outstanding modern cathedral.

Birmingham & The West Midlands -- The area known as the West Midlands embraces the so-called "Black Country." Birmingham, nicknamed "Brum," is Britain's largest city after London. This sprawling metropolis is still characterized by its overpass jungles and tacky suburbs, as well as its great piles of Victorian architecture. Urban renewal is underway. The English marshes cut through the old counties of Shropshire and Herefordshire. Ironbridge Gorge was at the heart of the Industrial Revolution, and the famous Potteries are in Staffordshire.

East Anglia (Essex, Cambridgeshire, Norfolk & Suffolk) -- East Anglia, a semicircular geographic bulge northeast of London, is the name applied to these four very flat counties. The land of John Constable is still filled with the landscapes he painted. The Fens -- that broad expanse of fertile, black soil lying north of Cambridge -- remains our favorite district. Go there to see Ely Cathedral. Cambridge, with its colleges and river, is the chief attraction. The most important museum is the Fitzwilliam in Cambridge, but visitors also flock to East Anglia for the scenery and its solitary beauty -- fens, salt marshes, and villages of thatched cottages.

The East Midlands (Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Lincolnshire, Northamptonshire & Nottinghamshire) -- This area encompasses some of the worst of industrial England, yet there is still great natural beauty to be found, as well as stately homes. These include Chatsworth in Derbyshire, the seat of the dukes of Devonshire; Sulgrave Manor in Northamptonshire, the ancestral home of George Washington; and Althorp House, also in Northamptonshire, the childhood home of Diana, Princess of Wales. Lincoln has one of England's great cathedrals, rebuilt in the 13th and 14th centuries. Bostonians like to visit their namesake, the old seaport town of Boston. Nottingham recalls Robin Hood, though the deforested Sherwood Forest is obviously not what it was in the outlaw's heyday.

The Northwest -- Stretching from Liverpool to the Scottish border, northwest England can be a rustic delight if you steer clear of its industrial pockets. Most people come here to follow in the footsteps of such romantic poets as Wordsworth, who wrote of the beauty of the Lake District. But Chester, Manchester, and Liverpool merit stopovers along the way. The resort of Blackpool is big, brash, and a bit tawdry, drawing the working class of the Midlands for Coney Island-style fun by the sea. In contrast, the Roman city of Chester is a well-preserved medieval town, known for its encircling wall. And Liverpool is culturally alive and always intriguing, if only to see where the Beatles came from, but it also has a branch of London's Tate Gallery.

The Lake District -- The literary Lakeland evokes memories of the Wordsworths, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, John Ruskin, and Beatrix Potter, among others. Windermere is the best location for touring the area, but there are many other charming towns as well, including Grasmere and Ambleside. The Lake District contains some of England's most dramatic scenery.

Yorkshire & Northumbria -- Yorkshire will be familiar to fans of the Brontës and James Herriot. York, with its immense cathedral and medieval streets, is the city to visit, though more and more visitors are calling on the cities of Leeds and Bradford. Northumbria comprises Northumberland, Cleveland, Durham, and Tyne and Wear (the area around Newcastle). The whole area echoes the ancient border battles between the Scots and English. Hadrian's Wall, built by the Romans, is a highlight. The great cathedral at Durham is one of Britain's finest examples of Norman church architecture, and Fountains Abbey is among the country's greatest ecclesiastical ruins. Country homes abound; here you find Harewood House and Castle Howard.

Wales

Cardiff & South Wales -- The capital of Wales, Cardiff is a large seaport on the tidal estuary of the River Taff. As the center of the small landmass that is Wales, Cardiff admittedly can't be compared very well with London or Edinburgh, but it's a charmer in its own right. Newly restored, the capital invites with such attractions as that treasure-trove, the National Museum of Wales, and Cardiff Castle, with all its rich architectural detail. If time remains, dip into South Wales, which isn't all remnants of the Industrial Revolution but is filled with beauty spots, such as the Brecon Beacons National Park. West of Cardiff is the city of Swansea, opening onto Swansea Bay. This is Dylan Thomas country.

North Wales -- Even more rewarding in scenery than South Wales, North Wales is a land of mountain peaks, spectacular estuaries, and rugged cliffs brooding over secluded coves, little rivers, valleys, and lakes. Its great towns and villages include Betws-y-Coed, Llandudno, and Conwy, along with such historic castles as Harlech, Caernarfon, and especially Conwy Castle, ordered built by Edward I and a masterpiece of medieval architecture. In this region, Snowdonia National Park covers 2,176 sq. km (840 sq. miles) of North Wales' coastal areas and rugged hills.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

London Boat Show ExCel, Docklands -- (tel. 0870/060-0246; www.londonboatshow.com). This is the largest boat show in Europe. Mid-January.

Charles I Commemoration, London -- To mark the anniversary of the execution of King Charles I "in the name of freedom and democracy," hundreds of cavaliers march through central London in 17th-century dress, and prayers are said at Whitehall's Banqueting House. Last Sunday in January.

February

Chinese New Year, London -- The famous Lion Dancers in Soho perform free on the nearest Sunday to Chinese New Year. Call the London Chinese Community Centre at tel. 020/7851-6686 (www.chinatownchinese.co.uk). Either in late January or early February (based on the lunar calendar).

Jorvik Festival, York -- This 2-week festival celebrates this historic cathedral city's role as a Viking outpost. For more information, call tel. 01904/543400 or visit www.jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk. Mid-February.

March

St. Davids Day Parade, Cardiff, Wales -- The capital of Wales comes to a standstill on Wales's national day, honoring its patron saint with the country's showiest and most fun-filled parade. Contact the Wales Tourist Board, Cardiff Visitor Centre, The Old Library, The Hayes, Cardiff (tel. 029/2087-2087; www.stdavidsday.org). March 1.

Crufts Dog Show, Birmingham -- The English, they say, love their pets more than their offspring. Crufts offers an opportunity to observe the nation's pet lovers doting on 23,000 dogs, representing 209 breeds. It's held at the National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham, West Midlands. Tickets can be purchased at the door. For more information, call tel. 0870/606-6750 or visit www.crufts.org.uk. Early March.

April

John Smith's Grand National Meeting, outside Liverpool -- England's premier steeplechase event takes place on a 6.5km (4-mile) course at Aintree Racecourse, Aintree (tel. 0151/523-2600; www.aintree.co.uk). Early April.

Flora London Marathon -- More than 30,000 competitors run from Greenwich Park to Buckingham Palace; call tel. 020/7902-0200 (www.london-marathon.co.uk) for information. If you'd like to take the challenge, call during May and June for an application. Mid-April.

Easter Parade, London -- A memorable parade of brightly colored floats and marching bands occurs around Battersea Park. Easter Monday.

The Shakespeare Season, Stratford-upon-Avon -- The Royal Shakespeare Company begins its annual season, presenting works by the Bard in his hometown, at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Waterside (tel. 01789/403444; www.rsc.org.uk). Tickets are available at the box office or through such agents as Keith Prowse Global Tickets (tel. 800/669-8687; www.keithprowse.com). April to October.

May

Brighton Festival -- England's largest arts festival features some 400 different cultural events. For information, call tel. 01273/709-709; www.brightonfestival.org). Most of May.

Royal Windsor Horse Show -- The country's major show-jumping presentation, held at the Home Park in Windsor, Berkshire, is attended by the queen herself. Call tel. 01753/860-633, or see www.royal-windsor-horse-show.co.uk for more information. Mid-May.

Glyndebourne Festival -- One of England's major cultural events, this festival is centered at the 1,200-seat Glyndebourne Opera House in Sussex, some 87km (54 miles) south of London. Tickets, which cost anywhere from £10 to £200, are available from Glyndebourne Festival Opera Box Office, Lewes, East Sussex BN8 5UU (tel. 01273/815000; www.glyndebourne.com). Mid-April to late August.

Bath International Music Festival -- One of Europe's most prestigious international festivals of music and the arts features as many as 1,000 performers at various venues in Bath. For information, contact the Bath Festivals, Abbey Chambers, Kingston Buildings, Bath BA1 1NT (tel. 01225/463362; www.bathfestivals.org.uk). Mid-May to early June.

Chelsea Flower Show, London -- The best of British gardening, with plants and flowers of the season, is displayed at the Chelsea Royal Hospital. Contact the local British Tourist Authority Office to find out which overseas reservations agency is handling ticket sales; or contact the Chelsea Show Ticket Office, Shows Department, Royal Horticultural Society, 80 Vincent Sq., London SW1P 2PE (tel. 0845/260-5000; www.rhs.org.uk). Late May.

Chichester Festival Theatre -- Some great classic and modern plays are presented at this West Sussex theater. For tickets and information, contact the Festival Theatre, Oaklands Park, West Sussex PO19 4AP (tel. 01243/784437; www.cft.org.uk). The season runs May to October.

June

Royal Academy's Summer Exhibition, London -- This institution, founded in 1768, has for some 2 centuries held Summer Exhibitions of living painters at Burlington House, Piccadilly Circus. Call tel. 0870/848-8484, or visit www.royalacademy.org.uk for more information. Early June to mid-August.

Vodafone Derby Stakes -- This famous horse-racing event (the "Darby," as it's called here) is held at Epsom Downs, Epsom, Surrey. Men wear top hats; women, including the queen, put on silly millinery creations. For more details, call tel. 01372/726311 or check out www.epsomderby.co.uk. First week of June.

Trooping the Colour -- This is the queen's official birthday parade, a quintessential British event, with exquisite pageantry and pomp as she inspects her regiments and takes their salute, while they parade their colors before her at the Horse Guards Parade, Whitehall. Tickets for the parade and two reviews, held on preceding Saturdays, are allocated by ballot. Applicants must write between January 1 and the end of February, enclosing a self-addressed, stamped envelope or International Reply Coupon to the Ticket Office, HQ Household Division, Horse Guards, Whitehall, London SW1X 6AA. Tickets are free. The ballot is held in mid-March, and only successful applicants are informed in April. Call tel. 020/7414-2479 or visit www.trooping-the-colour.co.uk for more details. Held on a day designated in June (not necessarily the queen's actual birthday).

Grosvenor House Art and Antique Fair, London -- This very prestigious antiques fair is held at Le Méridien Grosvenor House, Park Lane. For information, contact Grosvenor House Art and Antiques Fair, Grosvenor House, 86-90 Park Lane, London W1A 3AA (tel. 020/7399-8100; www.grosvenor-antiquesfair.co.uk). Mid-June.

City of London Festival -- This annual art festival is held in venues throughout the city. Call tel. 020/7583-3585, or visit www.colf.org for information. Late June to mid-July.

Aldeburgh Festival of Music and the Arts -- The composer Benjamin Britten launched this 2-week festival in 1948. For more details on the events and for the year-round program, write to Aldeburgh Foundation, High Street, Aldeburgh, Suffolk IP17 1SP (tel. 01728/687110; www.aldeburgh.co.uk). Mid- to late June.

Royal Ascot Week -- Though Ascot Racecourse is open year-round for guided tours, events, exhibitions, and conferences, there are 25 race days throughout the year, with the feature races being the Royal. For information, contact Ascot Racecourse, Ascot, Berkshire SL5 7JX (tel. 0870/727-1234; www.ascot.co.uk). Key race days are the Meeting in June, Diamond Day in late July, and the Festival at Ascot in late September.

The Exeter Summer Festival -- The town of Exeter hosts more than 150 events celebrating classical music, ranging from concerts and opera to lectures. Festival dates and offerings vary from year to year; more information is available by contacting the Exeter Festival Office at tel. 01392/277888 (www.exeter.gov.uk). Late June to mid-July.

Lawn Tennis Championships, Wimbledon, London -- Ever since players took to the grass courts at Wimbledon in 1877, this tournament has attracted quite a crowd, and there's still an excited hush and a certain thrill at Centre Court. Savor the strawberries and cream that are part of the experience. Early bookings for the world's most famous tennis tournament are strongly advised. Acquiring tickets and overnight lodgings during the annual tennis competitions at Wimbledon can be difficult to arrange independently. Two outfits that book both hotel accommodations and tickets to the event are Steve Furgal's International Tennis Tours, 11305 Rancho Bernardo Rd., Ste. 108, San Diego, CA 92127 (tel. 800/258-3664 or 858/675-3555; www.tours4tennis.com); and Championship Tennis Tours, 13951 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 133, Scottsdale, AZ 85254 (tel. 800/468-3664 or 480/429-7700; www.tennistours.com). Tickets for Centre and Number One courts are obtainable through a lottery. Write in from August to December to All England Lawn Tennis Club, P.O. Box 98, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE (tel. 020/8944-1066; www.wimbledon.org). Outside court tickets are available daily, but be prepared to wait in line. Late June to early July.

Shakespeare under the Stars, London -- The Bard's works are performed at the Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent's Park, NW1 4NU, in London. Take the Tube to Baker Street. Performances are Monday to Saturday at 8pm; Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday also at 2:30pm. Call tel. 0844/826-4242, or visit www.openairtheatre.org.uk for more information. Previews begin in June and last throughout the summer.

Ludlow Festival -- This is one of England's major arts festivals, complete with an open-air Shakespeare performance within the Inner Bailey of Ludlow Castle. Concerts, lectures, readings, exhibitions, and workshops round out the offerings. From March onward, a schedule can be obtained from the box office. Write to Ludlow Festival Box Office, Castle Square, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1AY; enclose a self-addressed, stamped envelope (tel. 01584/872150; www.ludlowfestival.co.uk). Late June to early July.

Cardiff Festival -- In venues across the Welsh capital, this 3-week festival features pop, jazz, theater, street performances, funfairs, opera, comedies, and children's events. Most events are free and take place in public and open-air places. For more information, contact the Cardiff Festival, Health Park, Cardiff CF4 4EP (tel. 029/2087-2087; www.cardiff-festival.com). Late June to early August.

July

Henley Royal Regatta -- This international rowing competition in Oxfordshire is the premier event on the English social calendar. For more information, call tel. 01491/572153 or visit www.hrr.co.uk. Early July.

Kenwood Lakeside Concerts, London -- These summer concerts on the north side of Hampstead Heath have continued a British tradition of outdoor performances for nearly 50 years. Fireworks displays and laser shows enliven the premier musical performances. The audience catches the music as it drifts across the lake from the performance shell. For more information, call tel. 020/8348-1286. Every Saturday from early July to late August.

The Proms, London -- A night at "the Proms" -- the annual Henry Wood promenade concerts at Royal Albert Hall -- attracts music aficionados from around the world. Staged almost daily (except for a few Sun), these traditional concerts were launched in 1895 and are the principal summer engagements for the BBC Symphony Orchestra. Cheering and clapping, Union Jacks on parade, banners, and balloons -- it's great summer fun. Call tel. 020/7589-8212, or check out www.bbc.co.uk/proms for more details. Mid-July to mid-September.

Musicfest Aberystwyth -- This is a pageant of cultural and sporting events in Aberystwyth, the cultural center of the western section of middle Wales. For more information, contact Aberystwyth Arts Centre, Penglais, Aberystwyth SW23 3DE (tel. 01970/623-232; www.aberystwythartscentre.co.uk). End of July.

August

Skandia Cowes Week, off the Isle of Wight -- For details about this yachting festival, call tel. 01983/295744 or visit www.skandiacowesweek.co.uk. Early August.

Pontardawe International Music Festival -- The little Welsh village of Pontardawe, lying 13km (8 miles) north of Swansea, attracts some of the world's leading folk and rock musicians for its annual summer concert series. For more information, call tel. 01792/830200 or see www.pontardawefestival.com. Mid-August.

Notting Hill Carnival, Ladbroke Grove, London -- Notting Hill is the setting for one of the largest annual street festivals in Europe, attracting more than half a million people. There's live reggae and soul music, plus great Caribbean food. Call tel. 020/7727-0072, or see www.nottinghillcarnival.biz for information. Two days in late August.International Beatles Week, Liverpool -- Tens of thousands of fans gather in Liverpool to celebrate the music of the Fab Four. There's an entire series of concerts by international cover bands, plus tributes, auctions, and tours. Cavern City Tours, a local company, offers hotel and festival packages that include accommodations and tickets to tours and events. For information, contact Cavern City Tours at tel. 0151/236-9091 (www.cavernclub.org) or the Tourist Information Centre in Liverpool at tel. 0151/233-2008 (www.visitliverpool.com). Late August.

September

The Landrover Burghley Horse Trials, Lincolnshire -- This annual event is staged on the grounds of the largest Elizabethan house in England, Burghley House, Stamford, Lincolnshire (tel. 01780/752131; www.burghley-horse.co.uk). Early September.

Raising of the Thames Barrier, Unity Way, SE18 -- Once a year, usually in September, a full test is done on this miracle of modern engineering; all 10 massive steel gates are raised against the low and high tides. Call tel. 020/8854-8888 or go to www.greenwich.gov.uk for exact date and time.

Horse of the Year Show, NEC Arena -- Riders fly from every continent to join in this festive display of horsemanship (much appreciated by the queen). The British press calls it an "equine extravaganza." It's held at NEC Arena, in Birmingham. For more information, call tel. 01582/711-411 or see www.hoys.co.uk. Late September to early October.

The Ascot Festival, Ascot, Berkshire -- This is Britain's greatest horse-racing weekend, providing the grand finale to the summer season at Ascot. The 3-day "meeting" combines some of the most valuable racing of the year with other entertainment. A highlight of the festival is the £250,000 Watership Down Stud Sales race, restricted to 2-year-old fillies. Other racing highlights include the Queen Elizabeth II Stakes, with the winning horse crowned champion miler in Europe. To book tickets, call tel. 0870/727-1234 or visit www.ascot.co.uk. Last weekend in September.

October

Quit Rents Ceremony, London -- The origins of this ceremony go back so far they have been forgotten. The city solicitor pays the queen's remembrancer (medieval term for collector of the queen's rents) token rents for properties long ago leased -- in many cases no longer standing. It's all for fun, show, and tradition. For example, the solicitor will pay the remembrancer two faggots of wood, a billhook, and a hatchet for land in Shropshire; or else 61 nails and six horseshoes for a long-gone forge in the Strand. The ceremony is held at the Royal Courts of Justice. Call tel. 020/7947-6000 (www.royalcourtsofjustice-events.co.uk) for more information. Early October.

Cheltenham Festival of Literature -- This Cotswold event features readings, book exhibitions, and theatrical performances -- all in the famed spa town of Gloucestershire. Call tel. 01242/227979, or visit www.cheltenhamfestivals.co.uk for more details. Early to mid-October.

Opening of Parliament, London -- Ever since the 17th century, when the English beheaded Charles I, British monarchs have been denied the right to enter the House of Commons. Instead, the monarch opens Parliament in the House of Lords, reading an official speech that is in fact written by the government. Queen Elizabeth II rides from Buckingham Palace to Westminster in a royal coach accompanied by the Yeoman of the Guard and the Household Cavalry. The public galleries are open on a first-come, first-served basis. Call tel. 020/7219-3107, or go to www.parliament.uk. Late October to mid-November.

November

London-Brighton Veteran Car Run -- This race begins in London's Hyde Park and ends in the seaside resort of Brighton, in East Sussex. Call tel. 01462/742-818, or see www.vccofgb.co.uk for more details. First Sunday in November.

Guy Fawkes Night, throughout England -- This British celebration commemorates the anniversary of the "Gunpowder Plot," an attempt to blow up King James I and Parliament. Huge organized bonfires are lit throughout London, and Guy Fawkes, the plot's most famous conspirator, is burned in effigy. Check Time Out for locations or www.gunpowder-plot.org. Early November.

Lord Mayor's Procession and Show, the City, London -- The queen has to ask permission to enter the square mile in London called the City -- and the right of refusal has been jealously guarded by London merchants since the 17th century. Suffice it to say that the lord mayor is a powerful character, and the procession from the Guildhall to the Royal Courts is appropriately impressive. You can watch the procession from the street; the banquet is by invitation only. Call tel. 020/7222-4345, or visit www.lordmayorshow.org for details. Second Saturday in November.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Britain has one of the most active gay and lesbian scenes in the world, centered mainly in London, much less so in Cardiff. Gay bars, restaurants, and centers are also found in all large English cities, notably Bath, Birmingham, Manchester, and especially Brighton.

Lesbian and Gay Switchboard (tel. 020/7837-7324; www.llgs.org.uk) is open 24 hours a day, providing information about gay-related activities in London or advice in general. London's best gay-oriented bookstore is Gay's the Word, 66 Marchmont St., WC1N 1AB (tel. 020/7278-7654; http://freespace.virgin.net/gays.theword; Tube: Russell Sq.), the largest such store in Britain. The staff is friendly and helpful and will offer advice about the ever-changing scene in London. It's open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 2 to 6pm. At Gay's the Word and other gay-friendly venues, you can find a number of publications, many free, including the popular Boyz. Another free publication is Pink Paper (with a good lesbian section), and check out 9X, filled with data about new clubs and whatever else is hot on the scene.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org), the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is a gay and lesbian tour operator. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com/travel) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, -oriented, and -friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises, Ltd.); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Getting There

By Plane

The major airport for arrivals from North America is Heathrow (LHR), outside London. This is the hub of most airlines, including British Airways and American carriers, and has the best transportation links to London. Gatwick (LGW) is the second major airport outside London, but it is much farther from the heart of the city, requiring longer and often more expensive hauls into the city.

Chances are you will not land at London's minor airports, certainly not if you're making a transatlantic crossing; however, you might land at one of these airports if you're winging in from the Continent. They include Stansted (STN), London City (LCY), London Luton (LTN), and London Southend (SEN).

If you plan to skip London altogether, you might have a direct flight winging into one of the two leading regional airports of England, including Manchester (MAN) and Birmingham (BHX).

Chances are you will not use one of the small airports of Wales, since most visitors arrive by rail or car. However, there are airports in the capital of Cardiff (CWL) and in the second city of Swansea (SWS).

A large number of international airlines serve London Heathrow, including discount carriers.

By Car

If you plan to transport a rented car between Britain and France, check in advance with the car-rental company about license and insurance requirements and additional drop-off charges before you begin.

The English Channel is crisscrossed with "drive-on, drive-off" car-ferry services, with many operating from Boulogne and Calais in France. From either of those ports, Sealink ferries will carry you, your luggage, and, if you like, your car. The most popular point of arrival along the English coast is Folkestone.

Taking a car beneath the Channel is more complicated and more expensive. Since the Channel Tunnel's opening (commonly called the "Chunnel"), most passengers have opted to ride the train alone, without being accompanied by their car. The Eurostar trains, discussed below, carry passengers only; Eurotunnel trains carry freight cars, trucks, and passenger cars.

The cost of moving a car on Eurotunnel varies according to the season and day of the week. Frankly, it's a lot cheaper to transport your car across by conventional ferryboat, but if you insist, here's what you'll need to know: You'll negotiate both British and French customs as part of one combined process, usually on the English side of the Channel. You can remain within your vehicle even after you drive it onto a flatbed railway car during the 35-minute crossing. (For 19 min. of this crossing, you'll actually be underwater; if you want, you can leave the confines of your car and ride within a brightly lit, air-conditioned passenger car.) When the trip is over, you simply drive off the flatbed railway car and toward your destination. Total travel time between the French and English highway system is about 1 hour. As a means of speeding the flow of perishable goods across the Channel, the car and truck service usually operates 24 hours a day, at intervals that vary from every 15 minutes to once an hour, depending on the time of day. Neither BritRail nor any of the agencies dealing with reservations for passenger trains through the Chunnel will reserve space for your car in advance, and considering the frequency of the traffic on the Chunnel, they're usually not necessary. For information about Eurotunnel car-rail service after you reach England, call tel. 0870/535-3535, or go online to www.eurotunnel.com.

Duty-free stores, restaurants, and service stations are available to travelers on both sides of the Channel. A bilingual staff is on hand to assist travelers at both the British and French terminals.

By Train

Britain's isolation from the rest of Europe led to the development of an independent railway network with different rules and regulations from those observed on the Continent. That's all changing now, but one big difference that may affect you still remains: If you're traveling to Britain from the Continent, your Eurailpass will not be valid when you get there.

In 1994, Queen Elizabeth of England and President Francois Mitterrand of France officially opened the Channel Tunnel, or Chunnel, and the Eurostar express passenger train began twice-daily service between London and both Paris and Brussels. In 2003, the completion of a new section of high-speed rail in England, the Channel Tunnel Rail Link, shaved 20 minutes off the trip between London and Paris, reducing it to just 2 hours and 35 minutes (or 2 hr., 20 min. to Brussels). This extension allows Eurostar trains to go at the rate of 482kmph (300 mph). One of the great engineering feats of all time, the tunnel is first link between Britain and the Continent since the Ice Age.

So if you're coming to London from say, Rome, your Eurailpass will get you as far as the Chunnel. At that point, you can cross the English Channel aboard the Eurostar, and you'll receive a discount on your ticket. Once in England, you must use a separate BritRail pass or purchase a direct ticket to continue on to your destination. Note that because the UK is no longer part of the European Union, you'll have to go through airport-style security and customs when you depart from London (or when you board on the other side of the English Channel for your trip to the UK).

Rail Europe (tel. 888/382-7245; www.raileurope.com) sells direct-service tickets on the Eurostar between Paris or Brussels and London.

In London, make reservations for Eurostar by calling tel. 08705/186-186; and in the United States, it's tel. 800/EUROSTAR (800/387-6782; www.eurostar.com). Eurostar trains arrive and depart from London's Waterloo Station, Paris's Gare du Nord, and Brussels's Central Station.

By Bus

Bus connections to Britain from the Continent are generally not comfortable, though some lines are more convenient than others.

By Boat

P&O Ferries (tel. 08716/645645; www.poferries.com) operates car and passenger ferries between Dover and Calais, France (25 sailings a day; 75 min. each way).

Tips for Single Travelers

Many people prefer traveling alone, and for independent travelers, solo journeys offer infinite opportunities to make friends and meet locals. Unfortunately, if you like resorts, tours, or cruises, you're likely to get hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. Single travelers can avoid these supplements, of course, by agreeing to room with other single travelers on the trip. An even better idea is to find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge, saving you the cost of single supplements. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only trips to London. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 160 active trips to 30 destinations worldwide, including England.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) offers extremely upscale escorted tours that are loaded with luxury. They're the best in the business.

Other contenders in the upscale package-tour business include Maupintour (tel. 800/255-4266; www.maupintour.com) and Tauck World Discovery (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com).

But not all escorted tours are so pricey. Older British folks make up a large portion of the clientele of one of the United Kingdom's largest tour operators, Wallace Arnold Worldchoice (tel. 0845/365-6747; www.waworldchoice.com). Most of the company's tours last between 5 and 10 days, include lodgings (at solid but not particularly extravagant hotels) and most meals, and are reasonably priced.

U.S.-based Trafalgar Tours (tel. 866/544-4434; www.trafalgartours.com) offers more affordable packages with lodgings in unpretentious but comfortable hotels. It's one of Europe's largest tour operators. There may not be a lot of frills, but you can find 7-day itineraries priced from $1,075 per person, double occupancy, without airfare, that include stopovers in Stratford-upon-Avon and Bath; they also offer 8-day packages at first-class hotels in London, starting at $899 per person, double occupancy.

One of Trafalgar's leading competitors, known for roughly equivalent moderately priced tours through Britain, is Globus & Cosmos Tours (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusandcosmos.com).

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Tips on Accommodations

Reserve your accommodations as far in advance as possible, even in the so-called slow months from November to April. Travel to London peaks from May to October, and during that period, it's hard to come by a moderate or inexpensive hotel room. Sometimes you can get better rates by calling the hotel directly. Ask for the type of room you want. If you're sensitive to noise, for example, request a room that's quieter, perhaps in the rear so you won't hear traffic noise out front. Remember that in the older hotels and inns, guest rooms tend to be small and each room is different, often with different plumbing. If you need a bathtub, ask for one or else you might end up with a small shower cubicle.

Classifications

Unlike some countries, England has no rigid hotel classification system. The tourist board grades hotels by stars. Hotels are judged on standards, quality, and hospitality, and are rated "approved," "commended," "highly commended," and "deluxe." Five stars (deluxe) is the highest rating. A classification of "listed" refers to accommodations that are, for the most part, very modest.

All establishments from two stars upward are required to have 100% en suite (private bathroom) facilities. In a one-star hotel, buildings are required to have hot and cold running water in all rooms, but in "listed" hotels, hot and cold running water in rooms is not mandatory. Star ratings are posted outside the buildings. However, the system is voluntary, and many hotels do not participate.

Many hotels, especially older ones, still lack private bathrooms for all rooms. However, most have hot and cold running water, and many have modern wings with all the amenities (and older sections that are less up-to-date). When making reservations, always ask what section of the hotel you'll be staying in.

All hotels once included in the room price a full English breakfast of bacon and eggs, but today that is true of only some hotels. A continental breakfast is commonly included, usually just tea or coffee and toast.

Bed & Breakfast

In towns, cities, and villages throughout Britain, homeowners take in paying guests. Watch for the familiar bed-and-breakfast (B&B) signs. Generally, these are modest family homes, but sometimes they may be built like small hotels, with as many as 15 rooms. If they're that big, they are more properly classified as guesthouses. B&Bs are the cheapest places you can stay in England and still be comfortable.

Reservations for bed-and-breakfast accommodations in London can also be made by writing (not calling) the British Visitor Centre, 1 Regent St., London W1. Once in London, you can also visit their office (Tube: Piccadilly Circus).

In addition, Susan Opperman and Rosemary Lumb run Bed and Breakfast Nationwide, P.O. Box 2100, Clacton-on-Sea, Essex CO16 9BW, an agency specializing in privately owned bed-and-breakfasts all over Great Britain. Host homes range from small cottages to large manor houses, as well as working farms, and the prices vary accordingly. One thing you can be sure of is that owners have been specially selected for their wish to entertain visitors from overseas. Remember that these are private homes, so hotel-type services are not available. You will, however, be assured of a warm welcome, a comfortable bed, a hearty breakfast, and a glimpse of British life. Write for a free brochure. For bookings in accommodations outside London, call tel. 01255/831235 or fax 01255/831437 daily between 9am and 6pm. Or check out their website at www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com.

Farmhourses

In many parts of the country, farmhouses have one, two, even four rooms set aside for paying guests, who usually arrive in the summer months. Farmhouses don't have the facilities of most guesthouses, but they have a rustic appeal and charm, especially for motorists, as they tend to lie off the beaten path. Prices are generally lower than those at bed-and-breakfasts or guesthouses, and sometimes you're offered some good country home cooking (at an extra charge) if you make arrangements in advance.

Farm Stay UK (tel. 024/7669-6909; www.farmstayuk.co.uk) publishes an annual directory in early December that includes 1,000 farms and bed-and-breakfasts throughout the United Kingdom. The listings include quality ratings, the number of bedrooms, nearby attractions and activities, prices, and line drawings of each property. Also listed are any special details, such as rooms with four-poster beds or activities on the grounds (fishing, for example). Many farms are geared toward children, who can participate in light chores -- gathering eggs or just tagging along -- for an authentic farm experience. The approximate prices range from £30 to £60 a night and include an English breakfast and usually private facilities. (The higher prices are for stays at mansions and manor houses.)

Another option is self-catering accommodations, which are usually cottages or converted barns that cost from £200 per week and include dishwashers and central heating. Each property is inspected annually not only by the Farm Holiday Bureau, but also by the English Tourist Board. The majority of the properties, with the exception of those located in the mountains, are open year-round.

For a copy of the directory called Farm Stay UK, contact Farm Stay UK, National Agricultural Centre, Stoneleigh Park, Warwickshire CV8 2LG (tel. 024/7669-6909; www.farmstayuk.co.uk). It costs £4.50 for postage and may be purchased by credit card.

For apartment, farmhouse, or cottage stays of 2 weeks or more, Untours (tel. 888/868-6871; www.untours.com) provides exceptional lodgings for reasonable prices, which includes air/ground transportation, cooking facilities, and on-call support from a local resident. Best of all, Untours donates most profits to provide low-interest loans to underprivileged entrepreneurs around the world.

National Trust Properties

The National Trust Holiday Cottages, Holiday Booking Office, P.O. Box 536, Melksham, Wiltshire SN12 8SX (tel. 0844/800-2070; www.nationaltrustcottages.co.uk), is Britain's leading conservation organization. In addition to the many castles, forests, and gardens it maintains, the National Trust owns almost 350 houses and cottages in some of the most beautiful parts of England, Wales, and Northern Ireland. Some of these properties are in remote and rural locations, some have incomparable views of the coastline, and others stand in the hearts of villages and ancient cities. Most of these comfortable self-catering holiday accommodations are available for rental throughout the year. Many can be booked for midweek or weekend breaks on short notice, particularly in autumn and winter. National Trust properties can sleep from 2 to 12 guests.

Though anyone can book rentals in National Trust properties, it's worth mentioning the trust's U.S. affiliate, the Royal Oak Foundation, 26 Broadway, Ste. 950, New York, NY 10004 (tel. 800/913-6565 or 212/480-2889; www.royal-oak.org), which publishes a full-color 400-page booklet that describes all National Trust holiday rental properties, their facilities, and prices. Copies cost $12 for nonmembers. Individual annual memberships are $55, and family memberships are $90. Benefits include free admission to all National Trust sites and properties open to the public, plus discounts on reservations at cottages and houses owned by them, and discounted air and train travel.

Holiday Cottages & Villages

Throughout Britain, fully furnished studios, houses, cottages, "flats" (apartments), and even trailers suitable for families or groups can be rented by the month. From October to March, rents are sometimes reduced by 50%.

The British Tourist Authority and most tourist offices have lists available. The BTA's free Apartments in London and Holiday Homes lists rental agencies such as At Home Abroad, Inc., 163 Third Ave., Box 319, New York, NY 10003 (tel. 212/421-9165; fax 212/228-4860; www.athomeabroadinc.com). Interested parties should write or fax a description of their needs; At Home Abroad will send listings at no charge.

Cottages 4 You (tel. 0870/078-2100; www.cottages4you.co.uk) represents about 9,000 rental properties in the United Kingdom. They have everything from thatch-roofed cottages to castles.

Barclay International Group (BIG), 6800 Jericho Turnpike 212W, Syosset, NY 11791 (tel. 800/845-6636 or 516/364-0064; www.barclayweb.com), specializes in short-term apartment (flat) rentals in London and cottages in the English countryside. These rentals can be appropriate for families, groups of friends, or businesspeople traveling together and are sometimes less expensive than equivalent stays in hotels. Apartments, available for stays as short as 1 night (though the company prefers that guests stay a minimum of 3 nights and charges a premium if your stay is shorter), are usually more luxurious than you'd imagine. Furnished with kitchens, they offer a low-cost alternative to restaurant meals. For extended stays in the English countryside, BIG has country cottages in such areas as the Cotswolds, the Lake District, and Oxford, as well as farther afield in Scotland and Wales. The company can also arrange tickets for sightseeing attractions, BritRail passes, and various other "extras."

At the cheaper end of the spectrum, there's Hoseasons Holidays, Lowestoft, NR32 2LW (tel. 01502/502588; www.hoseasons.co.uk), a reservations agent based in Suffolk (East Anglia). They arrange stopovers in at least 400 vacation villages throughout Britain. Though many are isolated in bucolic regions far from any of the sites covered within this guide, others lie within an hour's drive of Stratford-upon-Avon. Don't expect luxury or convenience: Vacation villages in England usually consist of a motley assortment of trailers, noninsulated bungalows, and/or mobile homes perched on cement blocks. They're intended as frugal escapes for claustrophobic urbanites with children. Such a place may not meet your expectations for a vacation in the English countryside (and a minimum stay of 3 nights is usually required), but it's hard to beat the rate.

Chain Hotels

Many American chains, such as Best Western, Hilton, Sheraton, and Travelodge are found throughout Britain. In addition, Britain has a number of leading chains with which North American travelers are generally not familiar. Thistle Hotels (tel. 020/7138-0000; www.thistle.com) is a well-regarded chain of upscale to moderate full-service hotels that caters to business and leisure travelers alike. An exclusive chain of government-rated three-crown hotels is called Malmaison (tel. 0845/365-4247; www.malmaison.com). There's not a bad hotel in their post. Premier Travel Inn (tel. 0870/242-8000; www.premiertravelinn.com) is a chain of modern, moderately priced accommodations across the U.K., each one featuring a licensed restaurant.

House Swapping

The market leader in home exchanges is HomeLink International, 2937 NW9 Terrace, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33311 (tel. 800/638-3841 or 954/566-2687; www.homelink.org), which costs $110 to join. This is the oldest, largest, and best home-exchange holiday organization in the world.

A competitor is Intervac U.S. & International, 30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA 94920 (tel. 800/756-HOME; www.intervacus.com). To hook up with this outfitter, you pay $65 annually. Intervac is adept at securing a list of home exchanges throughout Great Britain.

Youth Hostels

Youth Hostels Association (England and Wales) operates a network of 230 youth hostels in major cities, in the countryside, and along the coast. You can contact them at Customer Services Department, YHA, Trevelyan House, Dimple Road, Matlock, Derbyshire DE4 3YH (tel. 01629/592-600; www.yha.org.uk), for a free map with locations of each youth hostel and full details, including prices.

Britain Bans Public Smoking -- Some 4 centuries ago King James I denounced tobacco, calling it "loathsome to the eye, hateful to the nose, harmful to the brain, and dangerous to the lungs."

Britain has now heard his words, banning smoking in most public places, including hotels, restaurants, and pubs that serve food. Anti-smoking activists welcomed the proposal but criticized the government for letting smokers continue lighting up in some pubs and bars. Still, it's a big step for a country that has long had a love-hate affair with tobacco. Britain's smoky pubs are at the heart of the nation's social life. Since the law was enacted, many hotels have opted to become 100% nonsmoking, even in the bedrooms, while others -- at their discretion -- have opted to set aside a few of their rooms for smokers. Always ask before booking if you want a room in which you can smoke.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

On airlines, you must request a special menu for children at least 24 hours in advance. If baby food is required, however, bring your own and ask a flight attendant to warm it to the right temperature.

Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, a bottle warmer, and a car seat (in England, small children aren't allowed to ride in the front seat).

If you're staying with friends in London, you can rent baby equipment from Chelsea Baby Hire, 31 Osborne House, 414 Wimbledon Park Rd., SW19 6PW (tel. 020/8789-9673; www.chelseababyhire.com). London Black Cab (tel. 0845/108-3000; www.londonblackcab.com) is a lifesaver for families; the roomy interior allows a stroller to be lifted right into the cab without unstrapping the baby.

You can find babysitting available at most hotels.

Before you go, help your kids check out London Tourist Board's Kids Love London at http://kids.visitlondon.com, a site created to give kids the lowdown on kid-friendly attractions and events.

Recommended family-travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Some Frommer's guides were written specifically for families, including Frommer's London with Kids, Frommer's Devon & Cornwall with Your Family, and Frommer's Wales with Your Family.

Tips for Student Travelers

If you plan to travel outside the U.S., you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040; www.sta.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still 25 or younger, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, entitling you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions).

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for Canadians and U.S. residents alike. Irish students should turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie).

The International Student House, 229 Great Portland St., W1W 5PN (tel. 020/7631-8300; www.ish.org.uk), lies at the foot of Regent's Park in London, across from the Tube stop for Great Portland Street. It's a beehive of activity, with discos and film showings, and rents blandly furnished, institutional rooms. Laundry facilities are available and a key deposit is charged. Reserve way in advance.

University of London Student Union, Malet Street, WC1E 7HY (tel. 020/7664-2000; www.ulu.co.uk; Tube: Goodge St. or Russell Sq.), is the best place to go to learn about student activities in the greater London area. The Union has a swimming pool, fitness center, gymnasium, general store, sports shop, ticket agency, banks, bars, inexpensive restaurants, venues for live events, an office of STA Travel, and many other facilities. It's open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 11pm, Friday 8:30am to 1pm, Saturday 9am to 2pm, and Sunday 9:30am to 10:30pm. Bulletin boards provide a rundown on events; some you may be able to attend, others may be "closed door."

Special-Interest Vacations

Bike Trips

Brits have rediscovered the bicycle: A National Cycle Network covers about 16,000km (10,000 miles) throughout the country. The network runs from Dover in southeast England to Inverness in the Highlands. Go to www.sustrans.org.uk for route maps.

Most routes cross old railway lines, canal towpaths, and riversides. Among the more popular routes are the Sea-to-Sea Cycle Route, a 225km (140-mile) path linking the Irish Sea with the North Sea across the Pennine Hills and into the north Lake District and the Durham Dales. The Essex Cycle Route covers 402km (250 miles) of countryside, going through some of England's most charming villages; the Devon Coast-to-Coast route -- our favorite -- runs for 145km (90 miles) in southwest England, skirting the edge of Dartmoor; the West Country Way for 399km (248 miles) links the Cornish coast to Bath and Bristol; and the Severn and Thames route for 161km (100 miles) links two of Britain's major rivers.

For a free copy of "Britain for Cyclists," with information on these routes, call the British Tourist Authority (tel. 800/462-2748 in the U.S., and tel. 888/847-4885 in Canada) or contact the Cyclists Touring Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX (tel. 0870/873-0060, or 01544/370666 in Wales; www.ctc.org.uk), which can suggest routes and provide information. Memberships cost £36 a year.

A leader in these biking tours since 1974, Euro-Bike & Walking Tours (tel. 800/321-6060; www.eurobike.com in the U.S. and Canada) is currently the best outfitter. For more information, you can also write to Euro-Bike & Walking Tours, P.O. Box 990, DeKalb, IL 60115.

Fishing

Fly-fishing was born here, and it's an art form. Local fishing guides are available to lead you to English waters that are well stocked with trout, perch, grayling, sea bream, Atlantic salmon, and such lesser known species as rudd and roach.

If you prefer to go it alone without a guide, contact the Salmon & Trout Association, Fishmonger's Hall, London Bridge, London EC4R 9EL (tel. 020/7283-5838; www.salmon-trout.org), for information about British fishing regulations.

An excellent guide to fishing is Where to Fly Fish in Britain & Ireland, available on Amazon.com. To learn about fishing holidays, contact Angling Direct Holidays, The Homestead, Thurgarton Road, Aldborough Norfolk NR11 2NY (tel. 01603/407596; www.anglingdirectholidays.com).

Golf

Though the sport originated in Scotland, golf has been around in Britain since Edward VII first began stamping over the greens of such courses as Royal Lytham & St. Annes, in England's northwest, or Royal St. Georges, near London.

The unyielding reality is that golf in Britain remains a clubby sport where some of the most prestigious courses are usually reserved exclusively for members. Rules at most British golf courses tend to be stricter in matters of dress code and protocol than their equivalents in the United States.

If, however, your heart is set on enjoying a round or two on the emerald-colored turf of Britain, Golf International, 14 E. 38th St., New York, NY 10016 (tel. 800/833-1389 or 212/986-9176; www.golfinternational.com), can open doors for you. Golf packages are arranged for anywhere from 7 to 14 days and can include as much or as little golf, on as many different courses, as a participant wants.

Worthy competitors that operate on a less comprehensive scale than Golf International include Adventures in Golf, 22 Greeley St., Ste. 7, Merrimack, NH 03054 (tel. 877/424-7320 or 603/424-7320; www.adventures-in-golf.com); and Jerry Quinlan's Celtic Golf, 1129 Rte. 9 South, Cape May Courthouse, NJ 08210 (tel. 800/535-6148 or 609/465-0600; www.celticgolf.com). Each of their tours is customized and usually includes lodging in anything from simple guesthouses to five-star deluxe manor houses.

Hiking, Walking & Rambling

England and Wales alone have some 161,000km (100,000 miles) of trails and footpaths. The Ramblers' Association, Camelford House, 87-90 Albert Embankment, 2nd Floor, London SE1 7TW (tel. 020/7339-8500, in Wales 029/2064-4308; www.ramblers.org.uk), has several books and maps on hiking and walking in Great Britain. Prices range from free to £15.

Wilderness Travel, Inc., 1102 Ninth St., Berkeley, CA 94710 (tel. 800/368-2794 or 510/558-2488; fax 510/558-2489; www.wildernesstravel.com), also specializes in treks and inn-to-inn hiking tours.

English Lakeland Ramblers, 15404 Beachview Dr., Montclair, VA 22025 (tel. 800/724-8801 or 703/680-4276; www.ramblers.com), offers 7- or 8-day walking tours for the average active person. On its Lake District tour, you'll stay and have your meals in a charming 17th-century country inn near Ambleside and Windermere. A minibus takes hikers and sightseers daily to trails and sightseeing points. Experts tell you about the area's culture and history and highlight its natural wonders. There are also tours of the Cotswolds, as well as inn-to-inn tours and privately guided tours.

Other contenders include Country Walkers, P.O. Box 180, Waterbury, VT 05676 (tel. 800/464-9255 or 802/244-1387; www.countrywalkers.com). This company's "walking vacations" last 7 days either in the Cotswolds region or the Lake District.

To explore the mountain activities of Wales's Snowdonia National Park, contact Bob Postings at Pathfinder, Clynnog Fawr, Tan-yr-allt, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL54 5NS, in North Wales (tel. 01286/660202; www.pathfindersnowdonia.co.uk). Bob and his skilled team specialize in walking the summits, rock climbing, kayaking, and rafting, among other activities.

One of the best outfitters for walks through the West Country and the Cotswolds is Walking Holidays (tel. 01761/233807; www.bathwestwalks.com). On these guided tours you take in such attractions as the Wiltshire Downs and the Mendip Hills, as well as the coastal scenery of Exmoor.

To read about the vast hiking possibilities of Britain, you can purchase on Amazon.com a copy of Stilwell's National Trail Companion (Stilwell Publishing, 2001), by Tim Stilwell, the ultimate where-to-stay guide for walkers, which also documents an extensive national system of 48 hiking trails through Britain.

Horseback Riding

Horseback riding is one of the reasons many visitors head to England in the first place. It is a country of great horsemen and horsewomen (no pun intended). For details about how to have such a vacation, contact Eastern Trekking Associates, P.O. Box 357, Thomson, GA 30824 (tel. 888/836-6152 or 706/541-2450; www.horsevacations.com). Small groups of around six riders each are taken on tours of the Exmoor region, arguably the most beautiful district of England. Horseback riding holidays are also arranged in Wales.

A number of American companies offer horseback-riding package tours of Britain. Equitour, P.O. Box 807, Dubois, WY 82513 (tel. 800/545-0019 or 307/455-3363; www.ridingtours.com), is one such firm, specializing in package tours for riding enthusiasts who want to experience the horsey traditions of the land of foxes and hounds. Two types of tours can be arranged: stationary tours, with instruction in jumping and dressage during a 7-day period at a stable beside the Bristol Channel or on the fields of Dartmoor, and a "progressive" tour in Wales, with a 7-day trek. Most riders, eager to experience as wide a view of England as possible, opt for the latter, spending nights at different B&Bs or inns and lodging their mount at nearby stables. Accommodations are simple, and prices are kept deliberately low.

Literary Tours

Devotees of English literature and bookworms in general can explore England as it was seen and observed by famous writers, not just Shakespeare, but the Brontë sisters who lived in Yorkshire, or Beatrix Potter and Wordsworth, who wrote of the glorious landscapes of the Lake District.

The best such escorted tours are offered by Lynott Tours, 205 Mineaola Blvd., Ste. 1B, Mineola, NY 11501 (tel. 800/221-2474; www.lynotttours.com). Tours can be arranged by calling the company during business hours Monday to Friday. Accommodations, including breakfast, dinner, and afternoon tea, as well as a full-time guide, are included in their jaunts. Their most popular tours include "Much Ado About Shakespeare," "Literary Cotswolds," and "The Brontës Literature and Countryside" tour of the dramatic moors of Northeast England.

University Study Tours

You can study British literature at renowned universities such as Oxford and Cambridge during the week and then take weekend excursions to the countryside of Shakespeare, Austen, Dickens, and Hardy. While doing your coursework, you can live in dormitories with other students and dine in elaborate halls or the more intimate Fellows' clubs. Study programs in England are not limited to the liberal arts, or to high school or college students. Some programs are designed specifically for teachers and seniors.

Affiliated with Richmond College, in London, American Institute for Foreign Study, River Plaza, 9 W. Broad St., Stamford, CT 06902 (tel. 866/906-2437 or 203/399-5000; www.aifs.com), offers 4 weeks and up of traveling programs for high school students, and internships and academic programs for college students. There are also programs leading to the British equivalent of an MBA.

Institute of International Education (IIE), U.S. Student Programs Division, 809 United Nations Plaza, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/883-8200; www.iie.org), administers a variety of academic, training, and grant programs for the U.S. Information Agency (USIA), including Fulbright grants. It is especially helpful in arranging enrollments for U.S. students in summer school programs.

Worldwide Classrooms, P.O. Box 1166, Milwaukee, WI 53201 (tel. 414/224-3476; www.worldwide.edu), produces an extensive listing of schools offering study abroad programs in England.

When to Go

The Weather

Yes, it rains, but you'll rarely get a true downpour -- it's heaviest in November (2 1/2 in. on average). British temperatures can range from 30° to 110°F (-1° to 43°C), but they rarely drop below 35°F (2°C) or go above 78°F (26°C). Evenings are cool, even in summer. Note that the British, who consider chilliness to be wholesome, like to keep the thermostats about 10° below the American comfort level. Hotels have central heating systems, which are usually kept just above the goose bump (in Britspeak, "goose pimple") margin.

When You'll Find Bargains

In short, spring offers the countryside at its greenest, autumn brings the bright colors of the northern moorlands, and summer's warmer weather gives rise to the many outdoor music and theater festivals. But winter offers savings across the board and a chance to see Britons going about their everyday lives largely unhindered by tourist invasions.

The cheapest time to travel to Britain is during the off-season: from November 1 to December 12 and from December 25 to March 14. In the last few years, the airlines have offered irresistible fares during these periods. And no matter when you travel, keep in mind that weekday flights are cheaper than weekend fares (often by 10% or more).

Rates generally increase between March 14 and June 5, and then hit their peak in high travel seasons between June 6 and September 30 and December 13 and 24. July and August are also when most Britons take their holidays, so besides higher prices, you'll have to deal with crowds and limited availability of accommodations.

You can avoid crowds by planning trips for November or January to March. Sure, it may be rainy and cold -- but England doesn't shut down when the tourists leave! In fact, the winter season includes some of London's best theater, opera, ballet, and classical music offerings, and gives visitors a more honest view of English life. Additionally, many hotel prices drop by 20%, and cheaper accommodations offer weekly rates (unheard of during peak travel times). By arriving after the winter holidays, you can also take advantage of post-Christmas sales to buy woolens, china, crystal, silver, fashion clothing, handicrafts, and curios.