Essaouira is both a seaside port and beach resort, and although it lacks any great official sights, when combined with its artisan's markets, relaxed cafe-restaurant scene, and photogenic ramparts, it's a great place to while away a few days. The secret to enjoying Essaouira is to not be in a rush. Try to budget in a few days here, and you'll leave feeling refreshed and relaxed, and may very well plan to come back for an even longer stay.
Medina
Place Moulay Hassan -- The medina's focal point, this pedestrian-only square is lined with cafes and shops, and is perfect for a lazy morning or afternoon of people-watching. During the Gnaoua & World Music Festival, a large portion of the square becomes one of the festival's main stages. The cafes are lined up side by side in the narrow, northeastern section of the square, and all operate roughly from 8am to 11pm. One of the old-timers is Café du France, which serves an older, local clientele. Close by is Chez ben Mostafa, one of the newer, alfresco-style establishments. Their woven-cane chairs and large umbrellas are popular with travelers looking for surroundings a little more stylish. Around the corner from these cafes, facing the square's large open area, is Gelateria Dolce Freddo. This local institution serves homemade Italian ice cream by the scoop, and is open daily until late.
Souks -- Essaouira has a few small souks that are definitely worth exploring. Souk des Bijoutiers, the jewelers' souk, used to be a flea market, but today it's a small collection of jewelry shops, similar to the one in Tiznit, south of Agadir. Located between avenue l'Istiqlal and rue Sayaghine, many of the shops house generations of jewelers, their forefathers originally exposed to the trade by the town's 19th-century Jewish population. Although traditionally trained, some of the work presently produced by these jewelers is delightfully contemporary.
Coming off rue Sayaghine is rue el Khabbazine, where a collection of Berber cafes is a perfect place to join in with the locals for a mint tea or coffee and perhaps a game of checkers. Opposite rue Sayaghine are two squares, Le Joutia and place du Marché aux Grains. They are connected by a small laneway occupied by the town's tailors, where handmade suits can be fashioned, sewn, and ready in a day or so. La Joutia, the smaller of the two, is the town's flea market. An amazing assortment of trash and treasure is on display here, much of it put up for auction every morning. Place Marché de Grains is better known as the Corn Market, which harks back to the square's original purpose as the weekly souk for the surrounding farmers to sell their corn and grains. In recent times there were still one or two lonely vendors selling their bags of corn kernels the old-fashioned way, courtesy of a massive set of antique scales, but alas, they have now made way for a string of sun-drenched cafes.
The spice souk is still called Souk el Ghezel by some old Souiris, referring to its original function as the wool souk throughout much of the 19th and 20th centuries. Like the Corn Market, nowadays there is only one wool vendor selling his wares, as he has done every day since 1954. From 7 to 10am every Monday and Wednesday, his raw wool is washed and put up for auction. Outside the shop are traditional spinning spindles for sale, as well as an oversize set of antique scales. The remainder of the shops in the square are now Souiri versions of Morocco's famous herboristes, selling brightly colored spices, herbs, and concoctions. Adjacent to the spice souk is the fish market.
Outside the Medina
The Beach -- Essaouira's wide, crescent-shaped bay is one long stretch of golden sand, and while perfect for a stroll, is often too windy for sunbathing. When the tide is out, the area closest to the medina becomes one large temporary football (soccer) pitch, and if you feel so inclined, is best viewed with a bottle of wine from the outdoor patio of the restaurant Le Chalet de la Plage. South of the football pitch is the main entry point for kitesurfing and windsurfing, but is also where most beachgoers congregate. From May to September, a large children's playground is set up on the beach here, in front of the Restaurant de la Baie. Farther south are some camels and horses offered for (photogenic) rides along the beach by their overly competitive owners.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
