Regularly cited as Falmouth’s top upscale restaurant, the Glass Onion is a labor of love, and it shows. It’s very popular: Try it on an off night if you don’t want a long wait for a table. The formal touches here manage to make it feel friendly, if not exactly casual. Have no fear when choosing from this menu; there are no losers. But among the favorites are the poached lobster, shrimp and mussels with a spinach risotto, or the grilled pork chop with creamy polenta. The menu relies heavily on local ingredients, such as Barnstable oysters and Coonamessett Farm greens. There is also homemade gnocchi and fresh pasta.