The Old Town, which can be explored in about an hour, is the attraction here -- the New Town lies to the northeast. The heart of the Old Town is Marktgasse (Market Street), a rectangle with arcades. Many of the old houses facing Marktgasse are graced with oriels (large bay windows) and frescoed facades. A popular wine festival is held here on the second weekend of July, and the town fills up with revelers.

Among the curiosities of the Old Town is the Katzenturm, or Tower of the Cats, named for a defense cannon adorned with lion heads. The Churertor (Chur Gate) is another Feldkirch landmark. Sights include the Domkirche, a cathedral known for its 15th-century double nave, where you should stop in and see the Descent from the Cross, a 1521 painting by Wolf Huber of the Danube school.

Schattenburg Schloss (Schattenburg Castle), at Neustadt, can be reached by car (by heading up Burggasse), or you can climb the steps by the Schloss-Steig. The castle was once a fortress, and parts of it date from the turn of the 16th century. It's now a museum and restaurant. From the castle precincts, you have a panoramic view of the Valley of the Rhine.

Heimatmuseum (tel. 05522/71982; www.heimatmuseum.com), in Schattenburg Schloss, exhibits a wealth of furnishings of the region, ranging from those you might have found in a farmer's shack to pieces that graced noblemen's halls. Also displayed are large collections of art and armor. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to noon and 1 to 5pm. Admission is 3€ ($4.80) for adults and 2€ ($3.20) for children.

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