There's no particular sight within Fes's aging walls that defines its attractions; it's what you experience -- through sight, smell, sound, taste, and touch -- that you remember most. Within the largely confining walls of Fes el Bali and Fes Jdid is the world's last great medieval city, and this is what you come here to see. When Fes was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, the organization's director-general described the city as "a single example of what men, moved by the same faith and the same ideal, and coming together from different horizons . . . have been able to achieve."

Besides the very worthy attractions listed, there are an infinite number of possible attractions just waiting to be discovered down every one of the medina's 9,500 twisting alleys, blind corners, dark lanes, and frustrating dead ends. Heaving masses of impatient people, mules laden with anything from stinking animal hides to baskets of fresh flowers, giggling school girls skipping home from school, grizzly old men playing checkers in a cafe, an impromptu game of street football -- open yourself up to these possibilities, and you'll begin to know the real Fes.

Watch Out! -- As you are exploring the medina, listen out for cries of "Balak! Balak!" This is a warning that coming up in front or behind you is one of the medina's thousands of working donkeys and mules.

Fes Jdid (New Fes)

At the beginning of the 14th century, Fes's Jewish community was relocated to an area known as the Mellah in the Merenid-built Fes Jdid. This concentration of the community's skills -- and wealth -- led to a prosperous neighborhood of multistory houses with large interior patios and balconies hanging over the street, many of them decorated in the stucco and zellij designs from the Jew's Andalusian heritage. Take a walk along wide, straight rue de Merenides (also known as Derb el Mellah) to see the faded grandeur of these houses and balconies.

In the south of the Mellah abutting the medina walls is a blinding mass of more than 18,000 whitewashed tombs dating from the beginning of the Mellah itself to as recent as 2004. Row upon row of rounded rectangular tombs are lined up in sections for children, adults, priests, and distinguished persons. Two tombs rising above the others are those of Sol the Just and Yehuda ben Atar, both of whom are considered saints and are subject to ongoing annual pilgrimages. An elegant white tomb with green trim is that of Solica, a 14-year-old girl who, in 1834, was killed after rebuking an offer of marriage -- along with the necessary conversion to Islam -- by the governor of Tangier. The elderly gardien is usually on hand at the main gate (ring the bell) to show you around. Enter via the door at the junction of Derb Temara and Derb Taourirt. A second entrance is located on the first street to the right after entering through Bab Lamar. The garden is open daily and is free, but a 10dh gratuity is recommended.

Salt & the Jews -- Mellah is the name given to all the Jewish neighborhoods in Morocco. The Mellah in Fes Jdid was the country's first, built in 1276 for the Jewish Syrian archers employed in the army of the ruling Merenid dynasty. Eventually all of the city's Jews were relocated to this district and fell under the direct protection of the sultan and his nearby palace. The Saâdian rulers took similar action in Marrakech in 1558. Both relocations may have occurred to install the Jewish population as a physical buffer zone between the ruling sultan and his subjects should there have been any unrest and violence. Another school of thought is that it simply made it easier for the sultan to collect taxes from the Jews. Even up until the early 20th century, Moroccan Jews were relatively wealthy compared to their Muslim and Berber countrymen, comprising a large majority of the country's bankers and jewelers. Historically, they also controlled Morocco's sugar and salt trade. It's this latter connection to salt, maleh in Arabic, and the Fes neighborhood's close proximity to the Oued el Maleh (Salty River) that the name Mellah was derived.

Outside the Medina

Medina Viewpoints -- At some stage of your visit, try to head up to one of the convenient viewpoints looking over the medina. Borj Sud and Borj Nord were both lookout towers built in the late 16th century by the Saâdians to keep watch over any potential unrest within the medina. Nowadays they offer the best views of the medina. Borj Nord is the closest, and therefore most accessible of the two from Bab Boujloud. About 500m (1/3 mile) past Borj Nord are the Merenid Tombs, which also have a great view and usually play host to a sunrise concert during Fes's Festival of World Sacred Music. Any other time of the year, however, it's not safe to hang around at the ruins too long after dark. For all three lookout points, catch a petit taxi from Fes el Bali for 10dh one-way. The Merenid Tombs are the closest to both the main road and the medina walls, should you wish to walk one or both ways.

Especially For Kids

The inherent joy and untainted affection that Fassis have for all children can open up doors to experiences that parents may not have otherwise been offered. On the other hand, however, exploring the medina can be a tiring experience with small children, largely due to the human traffic congestion that occurs along narrowing lanes and at various junctions. Keeping your children's attention level on high, however, shouldn't be difficult in the medina, thanks to a veritable circus of music shops with lots of drums; Berber pharmacies (called herboristes) with brightly colored concoctions; butcheries with the odd sheep's or camel's head prominently displayed; and tanneries of brightly colored leather and grown men jumping up and down in colored baths. Even having to dodge the regular trails of equine refuse can lead to squeals of laughter. Worth a visit, especially during summer, is Baghdadi Square between Bab Boujloud and Bab Mahrouka. In the late afternoon you'll normally find a few musicians, storytellers, and potion salesman. Other than the offerings in the medina, Fes is sadly lacking in any other activities that can claim to be child-friendly. Out in the ville nouvelle, at the junction of avenue Hassan II and avenue des F.A.R., a few calèches have begun to appear during the warmer months, offering rides for tired little legs. Come mealtime, those who are missing their familiar burgers and fries can be accommodated at the McDonald's on place de la Résistance in the ville nouvelle, which also offers the standard McDonald's play area.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.