Beaches in Fethiye and Oludeniz
The coarse sands of Çalis Beach lie on Fethiye Bay, 5km (3 miles) north of the downtown and stretch for about 1.6km (a mile). Çalis Beach is lined with the icons of mass tourism: side-by-side homogenous hotels set back behind the beachfront souvenir stands that keep visitors stocked in plastic flip-flops and their kids in cheap snorkels. Although I don't recommend it for the beach, the sight of some of the most magnificent sunsets behind the smaller islands to the west make Çalis Beach worth a trip at least for that event. A water taxi from Fethiye's marina crosses the bay to Çalis Beach every half-hour for 4TL each way. Or, you can take the water taxi for about the same price to the lovely beach on Sevalye Island (in the middle of the bay) and stumble around the Byzantine ruins. There's also a dolmus for 1.50TL.
Çalis Beach reclaims its innocence at the extreme north end known as Koca Çalis, where the scenery returns to its pure and natural state. Taking advantage of the high winds and shallow waters of Koca Çalis are a number of windsurfing outfitters. Fethiye Surf Center (P.K. 170, Fethiye; tel. 0252/622-0753; www.fethiyesurfcenter.com) is a family-run sports center in the rough that focuses its energies on windsurfing lessons. Sener Aykurt, founder and windsurfing instructor (when not teaching math at Anatolian High School), teaches all levels of windsurfing, beginning with 2-hour sessions for first-timers, using an on-land simulated wave apparatus. If you're not taking the lesson, you can still rent equipment. Consult their website for current rates. Sener's mom posts the menu of the day on a chalkboard on the walk of their beachfront shack; take advantage of the real home cooking or relax in the sandy tea garden.
Only 5 minutes from the center of Fethiye town is a collection of newly established public beaches practically attached to the hip of the Letoonia Club. The beaches are maybe not as breathtaking as at Ölüdeniz, but they are certainly (for the moment) less crowded.
Arguably the most beautiful beach on the eastern Mediterranean, and the smallest bay in Turkey (and probably the reason you came all this way), Ölüdeniz has become Turkey's poster child due to its extraordinary beauty. But these days, it's hard to overlook the cheap formula tourism that has overtaken this small beach resort. Still, I'd be remiss if I didn't urge you to go, if even for an off-season day on the beach. Ölüdeniz refers to both the long stretch called Belcegiz Beach at the foot of Babadag, as well as the still blue waters of the Blue Lagoon, which actually takes its name from the enclosed pool behind the natural sandbar. Dolmuses leave frequently across from the hospital in Fethiye.
The exposed Belcegiz Beach is ideal as a landing site for the paragliding maniacs launching themselves off the top of the mountain, although you may spot a guy flying around with a jet propulsion pack strapped to his back as well. The beach is undeveloped, the locals touting adventure trips are friendly, and the white sands and turquoise waters are hard to beat (until you walk over to the preserve).
The Blue Lagoon is tucked inside a natural preserve that requires an admission fee of 3.50TL (though if you drive in it'll be about double with the parking fee). From the parking lot you can either follow the sandy beach around the sandbar or take the more scenic path over the pine needles and through the woods. Families who had arrived early to stake their claims are now nestled in the shade of little pine niches, and you'll pass hundreds of these picnickers as you follow the woodsy path along the shallow section of the lagoon. Keep walking, because you'll know by the color of the water when you've arrived. If you're not sure, keep going. You might want to get here early (actually, you'll want to go off-season, because in summer, the crowd is crushing), because by midday the lounge chairs are all spoken for, and you may wind up piling your belongings in a heap on the pebbles and diving right in.
Make no mistake, however, the Blue Lagoon has attracted half the population of Lycia, and they've all brought their kids, so a serene afternoon of swimming and solitude is definitely out. But however overcrowded it is, this little corner of Turkey is irresistible.
With your own car, preferably a four-wheel drive, you can combine a visit to Kayaköy with a day spent tooling around Gemiler Beach, an undeveloped cove opposite the historic ruins of Gemiler Island and some postcard views of the mountains in the distance. From the beachfront, you can swim over to the 7th-century Byzantine monastery of St. Nikola on Gemiler Island (site entrance an extractive 8TL, a rate certainly not commensurate with the site), hire a speedboat for a group ringo or banana boat ride, and feast on fresh fish over at the beachfront shack owned by the strange but ever harmless character, "Robinson."
Daily excursion boats offer the "12-island tour" (actually closer to six) around the Gulf of Fethiye, a popular diversion that can be booked directly at the dock, or through most any travel agent. In Ölüdeniz, contact Activities Unlimited (at the Karbel Sun Hotel; tel. 0252/617-0601; www.activities-unlimited-turkey.com). The beauty is impossible to describe, but for about 35TL, and even less off-season, the trip provides an abbreviated taste of what a weeklong Blue Voyage would be like. Highlights of the cruise include stopovers at Hamam Bay, where you can swim above sunken Byzantine baths (erroneously called Cleopatra's Bath), and at Gemiler Island. There's room for a mild adrenaline rush in Turunç Bükü, where you can scale the rocks to a hanging rope and swing into the turquoise waters like Tarzan. Swimming and snorkeling around the tiny coves and bays is a high priority, and the captain is usually flexible about schedules if you decide to swim ashore to explore some medieval ruins up close.
If you haven't booked your Blue Voyage yet and would like a taste of the Lycian Coast by sea, many agencies and boat captains offer what has now become a widely marketed 4-day, 3-night mini blue-cruise to Olympos (if you have time, inspect the cabins of several boats before you commit), available April to mid-October. The cruise takes in some of the most stunning scenery along the coast, past Butterfly Valley, Ölüdeniz, Gemiler Island, and the beach of Patara, the final leg of the trip heads by bus overland from Demre/Myra to ancient Olympos. Prices at the time of this writing for a cruise from July 15 to September 15 are 175€ per person, including tax and three meals, but excluding drinks. Prices go down slightly off-season. (There are no cruises Nov-Mar.) Most boats provide some type of snorkeling and fishing equipment. V-GO Tourism Travel Agency, Fevzi Çakmak Caddesi (between the marina and the Yacht Club; tel. 0252/612-2113; www.boatcruiseturkey.com), invented this trip, but my advice is to shop around and have a look at all of the boats/cabins available.