Perhaps because their restaurants are so dependent on the tourist trade, Figueira locals tend to be a bit sniffy about eateries in town. However, they flock to this place in the village of Paião, 10km (6[bf]1/4 miles) south over the Mondego bridge. It is a classic rustic Portuguese place: terracotta floors, azulejos on the wall dark-wood furnishings in a barn-like building that used to be a tannery—the leopard skin on the wall is a clue to it's former use. Specialities include sopa da pedra (a rich soup of beans, smoked sausage and vegetable), cabrito asado (roast kid) and espetadas (grilled skewers of meat or fish).