Planning a trip to Fiji

Tips for Senior Travelers

Children are cared for communally in the Fiji's extended family systems, and so are seniors. Most Fijians live with their families from birth to death. Consequently, the local governments don't provide extensive programs and other benefits for persons of retirement age. You won't find many senior discounts. Children get them; seniors don't.

Nevertheless, mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many chain hotels offer discounts for seniors.

Elderhostel, 75 Federal St., Boston, MA 02110-1941 (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org), occasionally has study programs to Fiji for those 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the United States and in more than 80 countries. Most include airfare, accommodations in university dorms or modest inns, meals, and tuition.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling, even in Fiji, where ramps, handles, accessible toilets, automatic opening doors, telephones at convenient heights, and other helpful aids such as those found in Western countries are just beginning to appear.

Some hotels provide rooms specially equipped for people with disabilities. Such improvements are ongoing; inquire when making a reservation whether such rooms are available.

The major international airlines make special arrangements for travelers with disabilities. Be sure to tell them of your needs when you reserve. Although most local airlines use small planes that are not equipped for those with disabilities, their staffs go out of their way to help everyone get in and out of the craft.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS (225-5667); www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to travelers with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for travelers with disabilities and the elderly.

When to Go

The Climate

Although local weather patterns have changed in the past 20 years, making conditions less predictable, local residents recognize a cooler and more comfortable dry season during the austral winter, from June to September. The winter trade wind blows fairly steadily during these months, bringing generally fine tropical weather.

The austral summer from November through April is the warmer and more humid wet season. Low-pressure troughs and tropical depressions can bring several days of rain at a time, but usually heavy rain showers are followed by periods of very intense sunshine. An air-conditioned hotel room or bungalow will feel like heaven during this humid time of year. This is also the season for tropical cyclones (hurricanes), which can be devastating and should never be taken lightly. Fortunately, they usually move fast enough that their major effect on visitors is a day or two of heavy rain and wind. If you're caught in one, the hotel employees are experts on what to do to ensure your safety.

Another factor to consider is the part of an island that you'll visit. Because moist trade winds often blow from the east, the eastern sides of the high, mountainous islands tend to be wetter all year than the western sides. On the southeastern shore of Viti Levu, Suva gets considerably more rain than Nadi, on the island's dryer side. Consequently, most of Fiji's resorts are on the western side of Viti Levu.

Also bear in mind that the higher the altitude, the lower the temperature. If you're going up in the mountains, be prepared for much cooler weather than you'd have on the coast.

Fiji's average high temperatures range from 83°F (28°C) during the austral winter (June-Sept) to 88°F (31°C) during the summer months, which are December through March. Evenings average a warm and comfortable 70°F to 82°F (21°C-28°C) throughout the year.

The Fiji Meteorological Service (www.met.gov.fj) gives the current forecast.

The Busy Season

July and August are the busiest tourist season in Fiji. That's when Australians and New Zealanders visit the islands to escape the cold back home.

There also are busy miniseasons when it is school holiday time in Australia and New Zealand. These periods vary, but in general they are from the end of March through the middle of April, 2 weeks in late May, 2 weeks at the beginning of July, 2 weeks in the middle of September, and from mid-December until mid-January. You can get a list of Australian holidays at www.oztourism.com.au (click on the "Holiday dates" link); for New Zealand holiday schedules go to www.tourism.org.nz (the "Utilities and Holidays" link).

Some hoteliers raise their rates during the busy periods.

From Christmas through the middle of January is a good time to get a hotel reservation, but airline seats can be hard to come by, since thousands of islanders fly home from overseas.

Holidays

All banks, government offices, and most private businesses are closed for New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Saturday, Easter Monday, Ratu Sukuna Day (May 30 or the Mon closest thereto), the Prophet Mohammed's Birthday (a Mon in mid-July), Fiji Day (the Mon closest to Oct 10), Deepawali (the Indian festival of lights in late Oct or early Nov), Christmas Day, and December 26 (Boxing Day).

Banks take an additional holiday on the first Monday in August, and some businesses also close for various Hindu and Muslim holy days.

And if Fiji wins a seven-man rugby tournament, don't expect anyone to be at work the next day!

When the Moon Is Full

The islands are extraordinarily beautiful anytime, especially so at solstice time in late September and late March, when the sun's rays hit the lagoons at just the right angle to highlight the gorgeous colors in the waters. The play of moonlight on the surface, and the black silhouettes the mountains cast against the sky, are even more magical when the moon is full. Keep that in mind when planning your trip -- especially if it's your honeymoon.

Visitor Information

The Fiji Visitors Bureau (FVB), P.O. Box 9217, Nadi Airport, Fiji Islands (tel. 672 2433; fax 672 0141; www.bulafiji.com), sends out maps, brochures, and other materials from its head office in the Colonial Plaza shopping center, on the Queen's Road in Namaka, about halfway between Nadi Airport and Nadi Town. It also has an information desk (tel. 330 2433) in a historic colonial house at the corner of Thomson and Scott streets in the heart of Suva.

The FVB's award-winning website is a trove of up-to-date information and is linked to the home pages of the country's airlines, tour operators, attractions, and hotels. It also has a directory of e-mail addresses.

Other FVB office locations are:

• United States and Canada: 5777 West Century Blvd., Ste. 220, Los Angeles, CA 90045 (tel. 800/932-3454 or 310/568-1616; fax 310/670-2318; www.bulafijinow.com)

• Australia: Level 12, St. Martins Tower, 31 Market St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9264-3399; fax 02/9264-3060; www.bulafiji-au.com)

• New Zealand: 33 Scanlon St., Grey Lynn (P.O. Box 1179), Auckland (tel. 09/373-2533; fax 09/376-4720; info@bulafiji.co.nz)

• Germany: Petersburger Strasse 94, 10247 Berlin (tel. 30/4225-6026; fax 30/4225-6287; www.bulafiji.de)

• Japan: Noa Building, 14th Floor, 3-5, 2 Chome, Azabuudai, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 106 (tel. 03/3587-2038; fax 03/3587-2563; www.bulafiji-jp.com)

• United Kingdom: Lion House, 111 Hare Lane, Claygate, Surrey K1 0QF (tel. 0800 652 2158 or 1372 469818; fax 1372 470057; fiji@ihml.com)

You can tune many hotel room TVs to the advertiser-supported Visitor Information Network (VIN), usually on channel 10, for tips about what to do and where to dine.

The Fiji government's website is at www.fiji.gov.fj. Other online venues for regional news are posted by the Hawaii-based Pacific Magazine (www.pacificmagazine.net) and Fiji-based Islands Business Magazine (www.islandsbusiness.com).

Many bookstores and hotel gift shops in Fiji sell maps, and the Fiji telephone directory has colorful city and town maps in the front.

The best place to order quality maps of the region is from Maptown Ltd. (www.maptown.com). The Perry-Casta?eda Library at the University of Texas at Austin posts free maps of the region on its website at www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/australia.html. Other free sources are www.mapsouthpacific.com, www.maps-pacific.com, and www.worldatlas.com.

Beware of Unofficial "Tourist Information Centres" -- When you see "Tourist Information Centre" in Nadi or elsewhere, it is most likely a travel agent or tour operator, whose staff will invariably steer you to its own products. The only official, nonprofit tourist information centers are operated by the Fiji Visitors Bureau, at the Nadi and Suva locations.

Regions in Brief

First let's review Fiji's regions and the differences among them.

Everyone starts on Viti Levu. Known locally as the "mainland," Viti Levu is actually Fiji's largest island. Suva, the capital city, lies 197km (122 miles) from Nadi airport, or about halfway around the island. With a few exceptions, Viti Levu does not have the best beaches in Fiji. Where it does have good sands, the reef offshore is more walkable than swimmable, especially at low tide. In other words, plan to look beyond Nadi and Viti Levu for good beaches and the best diving.

The Nadi Area

Nadi International Airport is located among sugar-cane fields on Viti Levu's dry western side. To locals, the name Nadi applies to this area, which is the focal point of much of Fiji's tourism industry. Many tourists on package deals spend all their time here, and there is, in fact, plenty to do, including day trips out to the Mamanuca Islands. Nadi also is a convenient base from which to explore the nearby areas. Unless I have only a few days to spend in Fiji, however, I make it a stopover on the way to another destination.

A variety of hotels are concentrated between the airport and the predominately Indian-populated Nadi Town, whose main industries are tourism and farming. Here you will find numerous handicraft, electronics, and clothing merchants.

Fiji has some spectacular beaches, but don't expect to find any in the Nadi area. None of the airport hotels are on the beach, and even at Denarau Island, where the country's major resort development boasts half a dozen large beachfront hotels, coastal mangrove forests make the sand gray and the lagoon murky.

The Mamanuca Islands

Beckoning just off Nadi, the Mamanuca Islands are popular among day cruisers. Offshore resorts of various sizes and prices appeal to a broad spectrum of travelers, from swinging singles to quieter couples and families. Generally speaking, this is the driest part of Fiji, which means it is sunny most of the time. Some of the Mamanucas are flat atolls so small you can walk around them in 5 minutes. Others are hilly, grassy islands reminiscent of the Virgin Islands in the Caribbean or the Whitsundays in Australia. Since the islands lie relatively close together, most offer excursions to the others. They also are conveniently close to Nadi, so you don't have to spend much extra money or time to get there.

The Yasawa Islands

A chain of gorgeous and relatively unspoiled islands stretching to the north of the Mamanucas, the hilly Yasawas are blessed with the best collection of beaches in Fiji. Two versions of The Blue Lagoon movie were filmed here: the 1949 original, and the 1980s remake starring Brooke Shields as the castaway schoolgirl. Young backpackers turned the Yasawas into one of the country's hottest destinations, but the islands now have resorts to fit every pocketbook. The Yasawas are easy to reach from Nadi by daily high-speed ferry service, and you can visit them on Blue Lagoon Cruises or Captain Cook Cruises.

The Coral Coast

The Queen's Road runs around the south coast of Viti Levu through the area known as the Coral Coast. This was Fiji's first resort area, developed even before the international airport opened in Nadi in the early 1960s. You'll find big resorts, comfortable small hotels, fire-walking Fijians, and a host of things to see and do, such as a collection of Fiji's native fauna in the excellent Kula Eco Park. Most of the beaches along the Coral Coast lead into lagoons that are very shallow, especially at low tide. Most visitors staying on the Coast these days are tourists on package holidays, but it's still a good choice for anyone who wants beachfront resort living while being able to conveniently explore the country.

Pacific Harbour and Beqa Island

About 48km (30 miles) west of Suva, Pacific Harbour was developed in the early 1970s as a resort complex with a golf course, private residences, shopping center, cultural center, and a seaside hotel (in other words, a real-estate development). Because this area is on the edge of Viti Levu's rain belt, the project never reached its full potential. Nevertheless, it has the country's best cultural center, most scenic golf course, and excellent deep-sea fishing. It's also the most central location for river rafting on the Navua River, kayaking along the coast, and diving in marvelous Beqa Lagoon (pronounced Beng-ga) -- all of which make Pacific Harbour the self-anointed "Adventure Capital of Fiji."

A 30-minute boat ride off Pacific Harbour, rugged Beqa is best known for its surrounding lagoon. Here you'll also find Frigate Passage, one of the world's best surfing spots (but not for novices, since the curling breakers slam onto the reef). Beqa has a bevy of comfortable hotels.

Kadavu Island

Fiji's third-largest island, Kadavu lies about 100km (60 miles) south of Viti Levu. It's a long skinny island whose south shore is skirted by the Great Astrolabe Reef, another of Fiji's top diving destinations. On the north coast is beautiful Long Beach, which -- at several kilometers in length -- lives up to its name and is one of Fiji's finest. Ashore, its lack of mongooses, iguanas, and other imported predators make it a heaven for indigenous wildlife and birds, including the endemic musk parrot, fantail, honeyeater, and whistling dove.

Suva

The Queen's Road runs between Nadi Airport and Suva, Fiji's busy capital and one of the South Pacific's most cosmopolitan cities. Suva city has a population of 86,178, according to the 2007 census, but more than 300,000 are believed to live in the metropolitan area. The country's history is on display at the excellent Fiji Museum, Suva's top attraction. Remnants of Fiji's century as a British possession and the presence of so many Indians give downtown Suva a certain air of the colonial "Raj" -- as if this were Madras or Bombay, instead of the boundary between Polynesia and Melanesia. On the other hand, Suva has modern high-rise buildings and lives at a fast pace -- not surprising because Suva is in many respects the bustling economic center of the South Pacific islands and is the home of many regional organizations. The streets are filled with a melting-pot blend of Indians, Chinese, Fijians, other South Pacific islanders, "Europeans" (a term used in Fiji to mean persons with white skin, regardless of geographic origin), and individuals of mixed race.

Rakiraki and Northern Viti Levu

An alternative to the Queen's Road driving route to Suva, the King's Road runs from Lautoka through the "Sugar Belt" of northern Viti Levu, passing through the predominately Indian towns of Ba and Tavua to Rakiraki, a Fijian village near the island's northernmost point and site of one of the country's few remaining colonial-era hotels. Jagged green mountains lend a gorgeous backdrop to the shoreline along the Rakiraki coast. At Viti Levu's northernmost point, Volivoli Beach is one of the country's most beautiful. Offshore, Nananu-I-Ra Island beckons windsurfers and budget-minded travelers, and the nearby reefs are among Fiji's best for diving.

East of Rakiraki, the King's Road hugs deep, mountain-bounded Viti Levu Bay, one of the most beautiful parts of Fiji. From the head of the bay, the road then twists through the mountains, following the Wainbuka River until it emerges near the east coast at Korovou. A left turn there takes you to Natovi Wharf, where ferries depart for northern Fiji. A right turn leads to Suva. In other words, it's possible to entirely circumnavigate Viti Levu via the Queen's and King's roads.

Levuka and Ovalau

East of Viti Levu in the central Lomaviti Group of islands, picturesque Ovalau is home to the historic town of Levuka, which has changed little in appearance since its days as a boisterous whaling port and the first capital of a united Fiji in the 1800s. No other place in Fiji has retained its frontier facade as has this living museum. Ovalau is an incredibly beautiful island, but its lack of beaches has deterred major tourism development; consequently, it remains in a time warp and is of interest mainly to those who want a taste of the way the South Seas used to be.

Within sight of Levuka, Wakaya Island is the home of Fiji's top resort, the Wakaya Club, an enclave for Hollywood stars and other well-heeled folk. It's the project of Canadian David Gilmour, who also is responsible for giving us Fiji Water.

Savusavu

Vanua Levu, Taveuni, and their nearby islands are known collectively as "The North" because they lie northeast of Viti Levu and comprise Fiji's Northern Province.

The northern side of Vanua Levu, Fiji's second-largest island, is dedicated to sugar cane, and its main town of Labasa is like Nadi without the tourists -- and without anything for tourists to do should they go there.

But on the south shore, the little town with the singsong name Savusavu lies nestled in one of the region's most protected deepwater bays, making it a favorite stop for cruising yachts. Tucked behind a small islet, the town is a throwback to the old days when schooners arrived from Suva to trade cloth and rum for cattle and copra (coconut oil).

Southern Vanua Levu has a considerable amount of freehold land; in fact, so many of my compatriots have bought parcels that Fijians now facetiously refer to Savusavu as "Little America." One of them is motivational speaker Anthony Robbins, who owns Namale Fiji Islands Resort & Spa and holds some of his seminars there. Another is environmentalist Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of Jacques Cousteau, who has lent his name to Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, the finest family resort in all of the South Pacific.

Savusavu also is the homeport of Adventure Fiji, which uses the 42m (140-ft.) sailing schooner Tui Tai to make 7- and 10-day soft-adventure voyages to Taveuni, Kioa, and Rabi islands in northern Fiji, and to the Lau Group on the eastern side of the archipelago.

Taveuni

Fiji's "Garden Isle" of Taveuni is another representation of the old South Seas, a land of copra plantations and small Fijian villages tucked away in the bush. Unlike Vanua Levu, Taveuni has some of Fiji's best beaches, especially near Matei, at the airstrip on its northern end. Matei is one of my favorite places in Fiji. It has several small hotels and surprisingly good restaurants within walking distance of each other, yet it seems a century removed from modern life. Taveuni is the best place in Fiji to visit a waterfall in Bouma National Heritage Park and go for a hike on the Lavena Coastal Walk along its wild eastern shore. Offshore lies the Somosomo Strait, Fiji's most famous diving destination. Two excellent resorts inhabit lovely Matagi and Qamea islands off Taveuni's northern coast.

Tips on Accommodations

Fiji has a wide range of accommodations, from deluxe resort hotels on their own islands to dormitories with bunk beds.

Bring a Face Cloth -- All South Pacific hotels and resorts supply bath and hand towels, but many do not have face towels (or wash cloths) in their bathrooms. Just in case, bring your own.

Types of Rooms

My favorite type of hotel accommodates its guests in individual bungalows set in a coconut grove beside a sandy beach and quiet lagoon. If that's not the quintessential definition of the South Seas, then I don't know what is!

Hotels of this style are widespread in Fiji. Likuliku Lagoon Resort is the first in Fiji with romantic bungalows actually standing on stilts out over the reef. Others are as basic as camping out. In between they vary in size, furnishings, and comfort. In all, however, you enjoy your own space and a certain degree of privacy. The bungalows are usually built or accented with thatch and other native materials but they contain most of the modern conveniences.

An increasing number of these accommodations are air-conditioned, which is a definite plus during the humid summer months from November through March. All but a few bungalows have ceiling fans, which usually will keep you comfortable during the rest of the year.

Fiji's major tourist markets for the island countries are Australia and New Zealand. Accordingly, the vast majority of hotels are tailored to Aussie and Kiwi tastes, expectations, and uses of the English language.

The standard Down Under room has a double or queen-size bed and a single bed that also serves as a settee. The room may or may not have a bathtub but always has a shower. There will be tea, instant coffee, sugar, creamer, and an electric jug to heat water (that's usually what I mean by "coffeemaker" in my hotel descriptions). Televisions and telephones are numerous but are not yet universal; and most hotels have radios whose selections are limited to the one, two, or three stations on the island.

Rooms are known to Fiji reservation desks as "singles" if one person books them, regardless of the number and size of beds they have. Singles are slightly less expensive than other rooms. A unit is a "double" if it has a double bed and is reserved for two persons who intend to sleep together in that bed. On the other hand, a "twin" has two twin beds; it is known as a "shared twin" if two unmarried people book them and don't intend to sleep together. Third and fourth occupants of any room are usually charged a few dollars on top of the double or shared twin rates.

Some hotel rooms have kitchenettes equipped with a small refrigerator (the "fridge"), hot plates (the "cooker"), pots, pans, crockery, silverware, and utensils. Having a kitchenette can result in quite a saving on breakfasts and light meals.

Surfing for Hotels

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com; Quikbook (www.quikbook.com); and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net). Frankly, I always go to the hotels' own sites before booking, since many now offer their own Internet specials, which often beat the big-site prices.

The best independent website for Fiji hotel discount shopping is www.Travelmaxia.com, where properties post their specials. You can search for resorts, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, dive operators, and cruises.

The Australian-based Whotif.com (tel. 300/88 7979, 866/514-3281 in the U.S., 0845 458 4567 in the U.K.; www.whotif.com) discounts rooms in Fiji.

Headquartered in London, www.pacific-resorts.com often slashes rates for Fiji resorts.

Backpackers and other budget travelers can book inexpensive rooms and dorm beds at hostels in most island countries at www.hostelworld.com.

Other websites have reviews and comments about accommodations worldwide. Hotelchatter.com is a daily webzine offering coverage and critiques. Go to TripAdvisor.com or Hotelshark.com for independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties. (Anyone can post reviews on these sites, including hotel owners themselves and "guests" who have never stayed at a property, so I read them with a proverbial grain of salt.)

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rate ranges quoted in this guide are known as rack rates, or published rates; that is, the maximum a property charges for a room. Rack rates remain the best way of comparing prices, but they are becoming less meaningful as more and more hotels change their rates almost daily depending on how many people are booked in for a particular night. They change so frequently, in fact, that many hotels refuse to divulge their rack rates to travel writers like me. In other words, you may not know what the price of a room is until you call the hotel or book online for a particular date.

Another tactic is to check with inbound tour operators. In addition to selling tours and day trips to visitors already in the islands (that is, at hotel activities desks), these companies put together the local elements of tour packages -- such as hotel rooms and airport transfers -- for overseas wholesalers. They have the advantage of being on the scene and thus familiar with the properties. Some sell directly to inbound visitors as well as other tour companies.

In Fiji, two small companies specialize in discount travel arrangements, including hotel rooms: Impulse Fiji (tel. 800/953-7595 in the U.S., 672 0600 in Fiji; www.impulsefiji.com) and Sun Vacations (tel. 672 4273 in Fiji; www.sunvacationsfiji.com).

It Could Pay to Ask -- It never hurts to ask politely for a discounted or local hotel rate. Many Fiji hotels have local rates for islanders, which they may extend to visitors if business is slow. Most pay travel agents and wholesalers 20% or more of their rates for sending clients their way, and some may give you the benefit of at least part of this commission if you book directly instead of going through an airline or travel agent. Some wholesale travel agents reduce the commission and sell directly to the public.

Money

Fiji is a moderately priced destination -- cheaper than big cities such as New York and London, more expensive than some Southeast Asian countries. But it also has a wide range of prices. Domestic airfares are relatively high, but taxi and bus fares are cheap. Some luxury resorts charge more than F$3,000 (US$2,000/£1,000) a night, but you can get a clean, comfortable hotel room for F$75 (US$50/£25).

Much of the country's tourism infrastructure is oriented toward backpackers, with reasonable prices to attract young travelers on a budget.

Currency

The national currency is the Fiji dollar, which is divided into 100 cents. The Fiji dollar trades independently on the foreign exchange markets and is abbreviated "FID" by the banks and airlines, although I use F$ in this book. Some hotels and resorts quote their rates in U.S. dollars, indicated here by US$.

The Fiji Dollar, the U.S. and Canadian Dollar & the British Pound -- At this writing, US$1 and the Canadian dollar (C$) = approximately F$1.54 (or, the other way around, F$1 = US65¢), which is the exchange rate I used to calculate the dollar values given in this guide. For British readers: At this writing, £1 = approximately F$3 (or, F$1 = 33p), the rate used to calculate the pound values in this guide. Note: International exchange rates fluctuate depending on economic and political factors. Find the current rates at www.xe.com.

How to Get Local Currency -- An ANZ Bank branch in the international arrivals concourse at Nadi International Airport is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. There's an ATM on the wall outside the branch, where you can draw Fijian currency by using MasterCard or Visa credit or debit cards. GlobalEX has exchange counters (but no ATMs) in the arrivals concourse and near the departures door.

ANZ Bank, Westpac Bank, and Colonial National Bank have offices throughout the country where currency and traveler's checks can be exchanged. They all have ATMs at their Nadi and Suva offices and at their branches in Savusavu, and Colonial National Bank has an ATM on Taveuni. There's an ATM at the Nausori Airport terminal near Suva. Several large hotels on Viti Levu have ATMs in their lobbies. Elsewhere bring credit cards, cash, and traveler's checks. Banking hours nationwide are Monday to Thursday from 9:30am to 3pm and Friday from 9:30am to 4pm.

You can get a better rate for traveler's checks at GlobalEX offices at Nadi Airport and in Nadi Town and Suva.

Tips: Getting Rid of Your Left-Over Currency -- Use your left-over currency to pay part of your hotel bill when leaving Fiji. Put the rest on your credit card. It will save you the trouble of having to change money at the airport.

Tips: Small Change -- When I change money (or after I've withdrawn local currency from an ATM), I ask for some small bills since petty cash comes in handy for public transportation (Fiji taxi drivers never seem to have change for large bills). I keep my small money separate from my larger bills, so that it's readily accessible while my big notes are less of a target for thieves. I also go first to WestPac Bank's ATMs, which usually dispense smaller notes than those at ANZ Bank.

Credit Cards

American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are widely accepted by the hotels, car-rental firms, travel and tour companies, large stores, and most restaurants. Don't count on using a Diners Club card outside the hotels, and leave your Discover card at home.

Tips: Credit Card Add-Ons -- Many Fiji businesses add 3% to 5% to your bill if you use a credit card, while others may offer a similar discount for cash payments. Credit card issuers frown on the add-ons, but the locals do it anyway. Always ask if an add-on or discount will be assessed.

Traveler's Checks

I seldom use them these days, but I carry a few hundred U.S. dollars in traveler's checks just in case the local ATM runs out of cash or is on the blink. You can get traveler's checks at most banks in denominations of US$20, US$50, US$100, US$500, and sometimes US$1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or tel. 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Tips for Student Travelers

Although Fiji has one of the most developed backpacker industries in the world, you won't find any student discounts here. If you're going on to New Zealand and Australia, you'd be wise to get an international student ID card from the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org), which offers savings on plane tickets. It also provides basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people. The card offers some discounts (but not on museum admissions).

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Both high school and university students can participate in summer community service programs in Fiji organized by Rustic Pathways (tel. 800/321-4353; www.rusticpathways.com).

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Don't even think about bringing your pet to Fiji. Fido will be quarantined until you are ready to fly home.

Tips for Black Travelers

Among general sources for African-American travelers, Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com); the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com); and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.

Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press) is a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde. The African-American Travel Guide by Wayne C. Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com) was published in 1997, so it may be somewhat dated. Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211) is a travel magazine and guide. The well-done Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH (977-7284); www.pathfinderstravel.com) includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana to upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Tips for Families

Fijians adore infants and young children, but childhood does not last as long here as it does in Western societies. As soon as they are capable, children are put to work, first caring for their younger siblings and cousins and helping out with household chores, later tending the village gardens. It's only as teenagers -- and then only if they leave their villages for town -- that they cannot find jobs and thus know unemployment in the Western sense. Accordingly, few towns and villages have children's facilities, such as playgrounds, outside school property.

On the other hand, the Fijians invariably love children and are extraordinarily good at babysitting. The hotels can take care of this for you.

The larger hotels in Fiji cater to Australian and New Zealander families with ample activities to keep everyone occupied. Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort in Savusavu is one of the top family resorts in all of the South Pacific islands, and several others have excellent kids programs.

Some resorts do not accept children at all; I point those out in the establishment listings, but you should ask to make sure. Even if they are able to accommodate young visitors, check whether the hotel can provide cribs and other needs, and if they have children's menus.

Disposable diapers, cotton swabs (known as Buds, not Q-Tips), and baby food are sold in many main-town stores, but you should take along a supply of such items as children's aspirin, a thermometer, adhesive bandages (plasters), and special medications. Make sure your children's vaccinations are up-to-date before you leave home. If your children are very small, perhaps you should discuss your travel plans with your family doctor.

Remember to protect youngsters with ample sunscreen.

Other tips: Some tropical plants and animals may resemble rocks or vegetation, so teach your youngsters to avoid touching or brushing up against rocks, seaweed, and other objects. If your children are prone to swimmer's ear, use vinegar or preventive drops before they go swimming in freshwater streams or lakes. Having them shower soon after swimming or suffering cuts or abrasions will help reduce the chance of infection.

Rascals in Paradise, One Daniel Burnham Court, Ste. 105-C, San Francisco, CA 94107 (tel. 415/921-7000; fax 415/921-7050; www.rascalsinparadise.com), specializes in organizing tours for families with kids, including visits with local families and children.

Adventures Abroad (tel. 800/665-3998; www.adventures-abroad.com) organizes 1-week family sightseeing tours around Viti Levu, including village and market village visits.

For a list of more family-friendly travel resources, turn to the experts at Frommers.com.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Fiji poses no major health problems for most travelers, although it's a good idea to have your tetanus, hepatitis-A, and hepatitis-B vaccinations up-to-date.

If you have a chronic condition, check with your doctor before visiting the islands. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses, though you can easily replace your contacts and prescription lenses in Nadi, Lautoka, and Suva.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Band-Aids -- Cuts, scratches, and all open sores should be treated promptly in the Tropics to avoid infection. I always carry a tube of antibacterial ointment and a small package of adhesive bandages such as Band-Aids.

Common Ailments

Among minor illnesses, Fiji has the common cold and occasional outbreaks of influenza and conjunctivitis (pink eye).

Tropical Illnesses -- Fiji has plenty of mosquitoes but they do not carry deadly endemic diseases such as malaria. From time to time the islands will experience an outbreak of dengue fever, a viral disease borne by the Ades aegypti mosquito, which lives indoors and bites only during daylight hours. Dengue seldom is fatal in adults, but you should take extra precautions to keep children from being bitten by mosquitoes if the disease is present during your visit. (Other precautions should be taken if you are traveling with children.)

Bugs, Bites and Other Wildlife Concerns -- Living among the friendly Fijians are some of the world's friendliest creatures, including the likes of ants, roaches, geckos, crabs, and insects.

Indeed, the Fijian islands have multitudes of mosquitoes, roaches, ants, houseflies, and other insects. Ants are omnipresent here, so don't leave crumbs or dirty dishes lying around your room. A few beaches and swampy areas also have invisible sand flies -- the dreaded "no-see-ums" or "no-nos" -- which bite the ankles around daybreak and dusk.

Insect repellent is widely available in most drug stores and groceries. The most effective contain a high percentage of "DEET" (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide).

I light a mosquito coil in my non-air-conditioned rooms at dusk in order to keep the pests from flying in, and I start another one at bedtime. Grocery stores throughout the islands carry these inexpensive coils. I have found the Fish brand coils, made by the appropriately named Blood Protection Company, to work best.

Multitudes of Animals -- Don't bother complaining to me about the multitude of dogs, chickens, pigs, and squawking myna birds running loose out here, even in the finest restaurants. They are as much a part of life as the islanders themselves. And don't be frightened by those little geckos (lizards) crawling around the rafters of even the most expensive bungalows. They're harmless to us humans but lethal to insects.

Sun Exposure -- The tropical sun in the islands can be brutal, even on what seems like an overcast day. Accordingly, it's important to use sunscreen whenever you're outdoors, especially at midday. This is particularly true for children.

HIV/AIDS -- Sexual relations before marriage -- heterosexual, homosexual, and bisexual -- are more or less accepted in Fiji (abstinence campaigns fall on deaf ears here). Both male and female prostitution is common in Nadi and Suva. HIV is present in the islands, so if you intend to engage in sex with strangers, you should exercise at least the same caution in choosing them, and in practicing safe sex, as you would at home.

Be Careful in the Water -- Most of Fiji's marine creatures are harmless to humans, but you need to avoid some. Always seek local advice before snorkeling or swimming in a lagoon away from the hotel beaches. Many diving operators conduct snorkeling tours; if you don't know what you're doing, go with them.

Wash and apply a good antiseptic or antibacterial ointment to all coral cuts and scrapes as soon as possible.

Because coral cannot grow in fresh water, the flow of rivers and streams into the lagoon creates narrow channels known as passes through the reef. Currents can be very strong in the passes, so stay in the protected, shallow water of the inner lagoons.

Sharks are curious beasts that are attracted by bright objects such as watches and knives, so be careful what you wear in the water. Don't swim in areas where sewage or edible wastes are dumped, and never swim alone if you have any suspicion that sharks might be present. If you do see a shark, don't splash in the water or urinate. Calmly retreat and get out of the water as quickly as you can, without creating a disturbance.

Those round things on the rocks and reefs that look like pincushions are sea urchins, and their calcium spikes can be more painful than needles. A sea-urchin puncture can result in burning, aching, swelling, and discoloration (black or purple) around the area where the spines entered your skin. The best thing to do is to pull any protruding spines out. The body will absorb the spines within 24 hours to 3 weeks, or the remainder of the spines will work themselves out. In the meantime, take aspirin or other pain killers. Contrary to popular advice, do not urinate or pour vinegar on the embedded spines -- this will not help.

Jellyfish stings can hurt like the devil but are seldom life-threatening. You need to get any visible tentacles off your body right away, but not with your hands, unless you are wearing gloves. Use a stick or anything else that is handy. Then rinse the sting with salt- or fresh water, and apply ice to prevent swelling and to help control the pain. If you can find it at an island grocery store, Adolph's Meat Tenderizer is a great antidote.

The stone fish is so named because it looks like a piece of stone or coral as it lies buried in the sand on the lagoon bottom with only its back and 13 venomous spikes sticking out. Its venom can cause paralysis and even death. You'll know by the intense pain if you're stuck. Serum is available, so get to a hospital at once. Sea snakes, cone shells, crown-of-thorns starfish, moray eels, lionfish, and demon stingers also can be painful, if not deadly. The last thing any of these creatures wants to do is to tangle with a human, so keep your hands to yourself.

What to Do if You Get Sick Away from Home

Hospitals and clinics are widespread in Fiji, but the quality varies a great deal from place to place. You can get a broken bone set and a coral scrape tended, but treating more serious ailments likely will be beyond the capability of the local hospital.

You may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S., the U.K., or Europe (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

Fiji's main islands have drug stores that carry over-the-counter and prescription medications. Most medications can be purchased without a local prescription, but bring your own medications (in your carry-on luggage), in their original containers. Carry the generic name of medicines, since local pharmacies primarily carry medications manufactured in Australia, New Zealand, and the U.K.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel

• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html

• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/index.htm

• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Safety

While international terrorism is still a threat throughout the world, Fiji is among the planet's safest destinations. Security procedures are in effect at Nadi International Airport, but once you're on the outer islands, you are unlikely to see a metal detector, nor is anyone likely to inspect your carry-on.

Although its military coups brought Fiji to the world's attention and caused great consternation on the part of the New Zealand and Australian governments, I saw little impact of the takeover during my recent visit. From a traveler's point of view, everything was working normally.

Although the December 2006 coup put a dent in crime, Fiji still has a serious problem with robberies and home invasions. Street crimes against tourists have been infrequent, but friends of mine who live here don't stroll off the busy streets after dark, especially in Suva, and they keep a sharp eye peeled everywhere in Fiji. For that matter, you should stay alert wherever you are after dusk.

Don't leave valuable items in your hotel room, in your rental car, or unattended anywhere.

Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches any time, since some Polynesian men may consider such behavior to be an invitation for instant amorous activity.

When heading outdoors, keep in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Hike only in designated areas, swim and snorkel only where you see other people swimming and snorkeling, follow the marine charts if piloting your own boat, carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when canoeing or rafting. Mountain weather can be fickle at any time. Watch out for sudden storms that can leave you drenched and send bolts of lightning your way.

Getting There

The only practical way to Fiji is by air. Even though Australians and New Zealanders can be in Fiji in a few hours, the distances for the rest of us run into the many thousands of miles. So be prepared to fly 11 hours or more from Los Angeles to Fiji, much longer from the U.K. and Europe.

Because populations are small in this part of the world, flights are not nearly as frequent to and among the islands as we Westerners are used to with destinations around home. The local airlines have relatively few planes, so mechanical problems as well as the weather can cause delays.

Most international flights arrive at Nadi International Airport (NAN), on the western side of Viti Levu about 11km (7 miles) north of Nadi Town. A few flights arrive from Samoa and Tonga at Nausori Airport (SUV), some 19km (12 miles) from Suva. Nadi and Nausori are the only lighted airstrips in the country, which means you don't fly domestically after dark. Many international flights arrive during the night, so a 1-night stay-over in Nadi may be necessary before you leave for another island.

The Airlines

Here in alphabetical order are the airlines with service to Fiji:

• Air New Zealand (tel. 800/262-1234 or 310/615-1111; www.airnewzealand.com) flies between Auckland and Nadi. It serves many other New Zealand cities and several in Australia, so Kiwis and Aussies can reach the islands either nonstop or by changing planes in Auckland. It has service from Los Angeles to Fiji, although the planes are flown by Air Pacific , on a code-share basis. It links the U.K. and Europe to Los Angeles, where passengers connect to Fiji. It also flies from Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Seoul, Taipei, and Beijing to Auckland, with connections from there to Fiji. It is a member of the Star Alliance (www.staralliance.com), which includes United Airlines, Air Canada, and several European and Asian carriers.

• Air Pacific (tel. 800/227-4446; www.airpacific.com), Fiji's international airline, has extensive service to Nadi from Sydney, Brisbane, and Melbourne in Australia, and Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch in New Zealand. It flies its own planes 6 days a week between Nadi and Los Angeles, a service it code-shares with Air New Zealand and Qantas Airways , and once weekly between Vancouver, BC, and Nadi via Honolulu. One of its Nadi-Honolulu flights stops in Christmas Island in the central Pacific. It code-shares with American Airlines, which provides feeder service from many U.S. and Canadian cities to Los Angeles. Within the region, Air Pacific links Nadi to Samoa and Tonga, and it goes west to Vanuatu and Solomon Islands. It also provides nonstop service between Fiji and Japan.

• Korean Air (tel. 800/438-5000; www.koreanair.com) has service between Seoul and Fiji. Although it's a longer distance, a connection through Seoul can be quicker from the U.K. and Europe than flying through Los Angeles.

• Pacific Blue (tel. 13 16 45 in Australia; 0800 67 0000 in New Zealand; www.flypacificblue.com), the international subsidiary of the Australian cut-rate domestic airline Virgin Blue (itself an offshoot of Sir Richard Branson's Virgin Atlantic), has low-fare service from Australia and New Zealand to Fiji.

• Qantas Airways (tel. 800/227-4500; www.qantas.com), the Australian carrier, has flights from several Australian cities and Fiji, and between Los Angeles and Fiji, although its Los Angeles-Fiji passengers fly on Air Pacific planes.

Baggage Allowances -- How many bags you can carry on board and check (and how much they can weigh) varies somewhat by airline, so always check with your chosen carrier before packing.

Only one rule is set in stone: Passengers on flights to or from the continental United States may check two bags each weighing up to 30 kilograms (66 lb.), with total dimensions (height, width, and length) of both not exceeding 158 centimeters (62 in.). The allowance on flights to and from Hawaii and the South Pacific may be limited to 30 kilograms (66 lb.) per economy class passengers, 32 kilograms (70 lb.) for first and business class.

Although domestic U.S. allowances may be less, you can check this much baggage if you're connecting to an international flight. United Airlines, US Airways, and other U.S. carriers now charge extra for more than one checked bag, so make sure they know you're connecting to an international flight.

In general, first-class passengers on other international flights are entitled to 40 kilograms (88 lb.) of checked luggage, business-class passengers to 30 kilograms (66 lb.), and economy-class passengers to 20 kilograms (44 lb.). Some airlines, including Air New Zealand and Air Pacific, strictly enforce these limits and make you pay extra for each kilogram over the maximum. So does Air Tahiti on its flights between Papeete and the Cook Islands.

In addition to a small handbag or purse, most international passengers are permitted one carry-on bag with total measurements not exceeding 115 centimeters (45 in.). Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it's still considered a personal item (remember, however, you must remove your laptop and pass it through security separately).

Note: The domestic air carriers in Fiji limit their baggage allowance to 10 kilograms (22 lb.). Check with the individual airlines to avoid showing up at the check-in counter with too much luggage. A baggage storage facility is available at Nadi airport, and most hotels have storage facilities where you can leave your extra bags during side trips.

Arriving and Departing Fiji

Arriving at Nadi -- Arriving passengers can purchase duty-free items at two shops in the baggage claim area before clearing Customs (they are in fierce competition, so it will pay to shop between them and ask for discounts). Imported liquor is expensive in Fiji, so if you drink, don't hesitate to buy two bottles here.

After Customs runs your bags through an X-ray machine, you emerge onto an air-conditioned concourse lined on both sides by airline offices, travel and tour companies, car-rental firms, and a 24-hour-a-day branch of the ANZ Bank.

The Left Luggage counter at the far end of the departures concourse provides baggage storage for about F$3 to F$6 (US$1.95-US$3.90/90p-#1.80) a day, depending on the size of the baggage. The counter is open 24 hours daily. The hotels all have baggage-storage rooms and will keep your extra stuff for free. The Left Luggage also has showers and rents towels.

A post office, in a separate building across the entry road from the main terminal, is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm.

Getting to Your Hotel from Nadi -- Representatives of the hotels and tour companies meet arriving visitors and provide free transportation to the hotels for those with reservations.

Taxis line up to the right outside the concourse. Only taxis painted yellow are allowed to take passengers from the airport. They have been inspected by the airport authority and are required to have air conditioning, which most drivers will not voluntarily turn on.

Local buses to Nadi and Lautoka pass the airport on the Queen's Road every day. Walk straight out of the concourse, across the parking lot, and through the gate to the road. Driving in Fiji is on the left, so buses heading for Nadi and its hotels stop on the opposite side, next to Raffle's Gateway Hotel; those going to Lautoka stop on the airport side of the road.

Departing from Nadi -- The Nadi domestic terminal and the international check-in counters are to the right of the arrival concourse as you exit Customs (or to the left, if you are arriving from the main road). Several snack bars are near the domestic counters, including the excellent Republic of Cappuccino, the local version of Starbucks.

Fiji has no departure tax for either international or domestic flights.

Nadi Airport has a modern, air-conditioned international departure lounge with a currency exchange counter, snack bar, showers, and the largest duty-free shops in the South Pacific. Duty-free prices, however, are higher here than you'll pay elsewhere in the country, and haggling won't change the set prices.

Arriving at Suva -- Nausori Airport is on the flat plains of the Rewa River delta about 19km (12 miles) from downtown Suva. The small terminal has a snack bar and an ATM but few other amenities. Taxis between Nausori and downtown Suva cost about F$25 (US$16/#8.25) each way.

Departing from Suva -- Nausori Airport has a small duty-free shop in its departure lounge but no currency exchange facility. Some of Air Pacific's flights between Nadi and Samoa and Tonga stop first at Nausori, where you will deplane and clear Immigration and Customs.

Getting Around

Fiji has an extensive and reliable transportation network of airlines, rental cars, taxis, ferries, and both long-distance and local buses.

By Plane and Helicopter

The easiest way to get around the country is to fly with Pacific Sun (tel. 800/294-4864 in the U.S. or 672 0888 in Nadi, 331 5755 in Suva; www.pacificsun.com.fj) or Air Fiji (tel. 877/247-3454 in the U.S., 0800 347 3624 in Fiji or 672 2521 in Nadi, 331 3666 in Suva; www.airfiji.com.fj). Both fly small planes from Nadi to the tourist destinations and have offices in the international arrivals concourse at Nadi International Airport and on Victoria Parade in Suva.

Pacific Sun is the domestic subsidiary of Air Pacific, Fiji's international airline. The same offices handle both Air Pacific and Pacific Sun reservations.

One-way fares from Nadi as I write are about F$61 (US$40/£20) to Malololailai Island (Plantation Island and Musket Cove Island resorts); F$77 (US$50/£25) to Mana Island; F$135 (US$88/£44) to Suva; F$200 (US$130/£66) to Savusavu; and F$250 (US$163/£83) to Taveuni. Suva-Taveuni costs about F$250 (US$163/£83). You can save by booking round-trip fares; ask the airlines for specifics. It also may pay to shop for the airlines' Internet specials (Pacific Sun often offers up to 40% discounts on its website). And always compare their fares, which can differ over the same route.

You can also save with the four-flight Air Pass from Air Fiji. Any four flights cost US$270 if purchased in North America, F$517 (US$336/£171) elsewhere. The passes are not available to buy once you are in Fiji. Call or go to Air Fiji's website for details.

Pacific Islands Seaplanes (tel. 672 5644; www.fijiseaplanes.com) provides charter service throughout Fiji in its small, Canadian-built floatplanes, which use wheels to take off from Nadi airport and then use floats to land on water at the offshore.

Island Hoppers (tel. 672 0140; www.helicopters.com.fj) also will whisk you to the Mamanucas in one of its helicopters. If you have to ask how much these rides cost, you can't afford them. I would let my choice of resort arrange my transfers and tell me how much it will cost.

How to Fly Smoothly in Fiji -- Here are few tips to help make flying in Fiji a smooth experience:

• Book your domestic inter-island flights well in advance. You may not get on a plane at all if you wait until you arrive in Fiji to take care of this important chore.
• Although it's unnecessary for international flights, always reconfirm your return inter-island flight as soon as you arrive on an outer island within Fiji. That way the local airlines will know how to reach you if there's a schedule change or cancellation.
• Air Fiji's flights from Nadi and Suva to Taveuni stop in Savusavu going or coming (Pacific Sun's do not), so don't let an uninformed travel agent book you back to Nadi or Suva in order to get from Taveuni to Savusavu.
• Weigh your bag, since baggage allowances on domestic flights may be 10 kilograms (22 lb.) instead of the 20 kilograms (44 lb.) allowed on international flights. Usually you can check 20 kilograms if you're connecting from or to an international flight, but inquire with the airlines to avoid showing up with too much luggage.

By Rental Car

Rental cars are widely available in Fiji. Each company has its own pricing policy, and you can frequently find discounts, special deals, and some give-and-take bargaining over long-term and long-distance use. All major companies, and a few not so major, have offices in the commercial concourse at Nadi International Airport, so it's easy to shop around. Most are open 7 days a week, some for 24 hours a day. Give careful consideration to how far you will drive; it's 197km (122 miles) from Nadi Airport to Suva, so an unlimited kilometer rate could work to your advantage if you plan to drive to Suva.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212, or 672 2233 in Nadi; www.avis.com.fj) has more than 50% of the business here, and for good reason: The Toyota dealer is the local agent, so it has the newest and best-maintained fleet. In addition to the office at Nadi Airport, Avis can be found in Suva (tel. 331 3833), in Korolevu on the Coral Coast (tel. 653 0176), and at several hotels.

Thrifty Car Rental (tel. 800/367-2277, or 672 2935 in Nadi; www.thrifty.com), which is handled by Rosie the Travel Service, is my second choice, with rates and cars comparable to Avis's.

Other international agencies here are Budget Rent A Car (tel. 800/527-0700 or 672 2735; www.budget.com); Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 or 672 3466; www.hertz.com), and Europcar (tel. 800/227-7368 or 672 5957; www.europcar.com).

The most reliable local companies are Carpenters Rentals (tel. 672 2772, or 332 8628 in Suva; rentals@carpenters.com.fj) and Khan's Rental Cars (tel. 679 0617 or 338 5033 in Suva; www.khansrental.com.fj). I do not rent from other "kick-the-tires" local companies.

Rates at all agencies range from F$100 (US$65/£33) and upward per day with unlimited kilometers. Add about F$22 (US$15/£7) a day to reduce your collision damage liability. Your home insurance policy might cover any damages that occur in Fiji, but I recommend getting local coverage when you rent a car. Even if you do, the local policies require you to pay the first F$500 (US$325/£165) or more of damages in any event. Underbody and overhead damage is not covered, so go slow when crossing Fiji's innumerable "road humps" -- and do not park under coconut trees!

All renters must be at least 21 years old, and a few companies require them to be at least 25 or have at least 2 years driving experience.

Gasoline (petrol) is readily available at service stations in all the main towns. Expect to pay about twice what you would pay in the United States and Canada, about the same as elsewhere.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the left-hand side of the road throughout Fiji. Your valid home driver's license will be honored in the islands. Seat belts are mandatory. Speed limits are 80kmph (48 mph) on the open road and 50kmph (30 mph) in the towns and other built-up areas. It's illegal to drive while talking on a cellphone. You must stop for pedestrians in all marked crosswalks.

Driving under the influence of alcohol or other drugs is a criminal offense in Fiji, and the police frequently throw up roadblocks and administer Breathalyzer tests to all drivers. Even if I have a rental car, I take a taxi home after a session with friends at a local bar.

Watch Out for Cows, Horses & Road Humps! -- Most roads in Fiji are narrow, poorly maintained, and crooked. Not all local drivers are well trained, experienced, or skilled, and some of them (including bus drivers) go much too fast for the conditions. Consequently, you should drive defensively at all times. Constantly be alert for potholes, landslides, hairpin curves, and various stray animals -- cows and horses are a very real danger, especially at night.

Also keep an eye out for speed bumps known in Fiji as road humps. Most Fijian villages have them. Although big signs made to resemble traditional Fijian war clubs announce when you're entering and leaving villages on the Queen's Road, road humps are usually positioned between the clubs, so slow down! The humps are large enough to do serious damage to the bottom of a car, and no local rental insurance covers that.

By Bus

Appealing to backpackers and other cost-conscious travelers, Feejee Experience (tel. 672 5959; www.feejeeexperience.com) runs a bus counterclockwise around Viti Levu 4 days a week. The vehicles have local guides and stop for sightseeing and activities such as village visits, hiking, and river rafting. You buy a pass, which allows you to get on and off the bus at will for up to 6 months. The "Hula Hoop" pass costs F$396 (US$257/£131) and includes the bus around Viti Levu. The "Lei Low" pass for F$558 (US$363/£184) adds a night in a dorm on Beachcomber Island Resort in the Mamanuca Islands off Nadi. The "Hotel Lei" adds hotel accommodations for F$710 (US$462/£234) double occupancy, F$1,013 (US$658/£334) single occupancy. Otherwise you must pay for your accommodations, although Feejee Experience will book and hold rooms or dorm beds at its preferred hostels, including Mango Bay Resort on the Coral Coast, Raintree Lodge in Suva, and Volivoli Beach Resort in Rakiraki. You can get around by bus for a lot less money, but you won't have the guides, the activities, or the companionship of youthful fellow travelers.

Public buses are plentiful and inexpensive in Fiji, and it's possible to go all the way around Viti Levu on them. I did it once by taking the Fiji Express from Nadi to Suva one morning, a local express to Rakiraki the next morning, and then another express to Lautoka and a local back to Nadi.

The most comfortable bus between Nadi airport and Suva is the air-conditioned Fiji Express (tel. 672 3105 in Nadi, 331 2287 in Suva). One bus leaves Nadi airport daily at 7:30am and stops at the major hotels along the Queen's Road before arriving at Suva about 11:30am. It departs Suva at 4pm and returns to Nadi at 8pm. Another bus begins its daily runs at 7:30am from the Holiday Inn Suva and arrives in Nadi about 11:30am. It begins its return to Suva at 1pm, arriving in the capital about 5pm. One-way fares run up to F$20 (US$13/£6.50), depending on how far you go. You can book at any hotel tour desk.

Sunbeam Transport Ltd. (tel. 666 2822 in Lautoka, or 338 2704 in Suva) and Pacific Transport Ltd. (tel. 670 0044 in Nadi, or 330 4366 in Suva) operate express and regular buses that go all the way around Viti Levu. They stop at the domestic terminal at Nadi Airport and the markets at Nadi Town, Sigatoka, and Navua. Express buses take about 4 hours between Nadi and Suva, compared to 5 hours on the local "stages." These buses cater to local residents, do not take reservations, and have no air conditioning. The Nadi-Suva fare is about F$10 (US$6.50/£3.30), express or local.

In addition to Sunbeam Transport Ltd., Reliance Transport Bus Service (tel. 666 3059 in Lautoka, or 338 2296 in Suva) and Akbar Buses Ltd. (tel. 669 4760 in Rakiraki) have express and local service between Lautoka and Suva via the King's Road. The Lautoka-Suva fare is about F$13 (US$8.50/£4.30).

Fume-belching local buses use the produce markets as their terminals. The older buses have side windows made of canvas panels that are rolled down during inclement weather (they usually fly out the sides and flap in the wind like great skirts). They run every few minutes along the Queen's Road between Lautoka and Nadi Town, passing the airport and most of the hotels and restaurants along the way.

Minivans scoot along the Queen's Road between the Nadi Town market and the Suva Municipal Market. Those with yellow license tags with the prefix "LM" (licensed minivan) are regulated by the government. I avoid the others, which can be unsafe, and strongly suggest you do the same.

By Taxi

Taxis are as abundant in Fiji as taxi meters are scarce. The Nadi Airport taxis are now required to have both meters and air-conditioners, but the drivers do not always turn them on. Always settle on a fare to your destination before striking out. Some drivers will complain about short fares and will badger you for more business later on during your stay; politely ignore these entreaties.

Not to be confused with minibuses, "share taxis" or "rolling taxis" -- those not otherwise occupied -- pick up passengers at bus stops and charge the bus fare. They are particularly good value on long-distance trips. A taxi returning to Suva, for example, will stop by the Nadi Town market and pick up a load of passengers at the bus fare rather than drive back to the capital empty. Ask around the local market bus stops if share taxis are available. You'll meet some wonderful Fijians that way.

Although the government sets all taxi fares, it has not raised them for several years despite skyrocketing fuel prices. They may be higher by the time you arrive. In the meantime, many drivers will ask for a few dollars more than the official fare. Even if they don't, I usually give them a small tip anyway -- provided they haven't pestered me, refused to turn on the air-conditioner, or blared music from their radios. The following are distances from Nadi International Airport via the Queen's Road and the official government-regulated taxi fares at press time.

It Never Hurts to Bargain -- In Nadi and on the Coral Coast, you will see the same taxi drivers stationed outside your hotel every day. Usually they are paid on a salaried rather than a fare basis, so they may be willing to spend more time than usual showing you around. Also, they might charge you less than the government-regulated fares for long-distance trips, such as from Nadi to the Coral Coast or Suva, because many would rather earn one big fare a day than several small ones. It never hurts to bargain politely.

By Ferry

Three reliable shuttle boats operated by Nadi-based South Sea Cruises (tel. 675 0500; www.ssc.com.fj) connect the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands to Denarau Island and Nadi. The Tiger IV and the Cougar make three runs daily through the Mamanucas, while the Yasawa Express goes to the Yasawas and back once a day.

Vehicle- and passenger-carrying ferries also run between the main islands. Their schedules can change abruptly depending on the weather and the condition of the ships, however, so I don't recommend them unless you have unlimited time. Call the operators below for the latest information.

Bligh Water Shipping Ltd. (tel. 331 8247 in Suva; 990 2032 in Lautoka; www.blighwatershipping.com.fj) operates the cleanest and most reliable ferries between Suva, Savusavu, and Taveuni, and between Lautoka and Savusavu. Its ferries are fully air-conditioned and have both economy and first-class cabins. One departs Suva for Savusavu and Taveuni thrice weekly. Adult economy fare for the 11-hour run to Savusavu starts at F$63 (US$41/£21). Another ferry runs between Lautoka and Savusavu via the north coast of Viti Levu, going in one direction one day, the opposite way the next. Adult economy fares are F$60 (US$39/£20).

Patterson Shipping Services (tel. 331 5644 in Suva; patterson@connect.com.fj) has bus-ferry connections from Natovi Wharf (north of Suva on eastern Viti Levu) to Buresala Landing on Ovalau and to Nabouwalu on Vanua Levu. You connect by bus from Suva to Natovi, from Buresala to Levuka, and from Nabouwalu to Labasa (local buses connect Labasa to Savusavu). The Suva-Levuka fare costs about F$30 (US$20/£10), while the Suva-Labasa fare is about F$60 (US$39/£20). Patterson's office is in Ste. 1-2, Epworth House, Nina Street in Suva.

Based at Taveuni, the small ferry Amazing Grace (tel. 888 0320 on Taveuni, 927 1372 in Savusavu) crosses the Somosomo Strait between Buca Bay on Vanua Levu and Waiyevo on Taveuni. The one-way fare is F$25 (US$16/£8), including a bus ride from Savusavu to Buca Bay.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although homosexuality is officially frowned upon by local laws and by some local religious leaders, an old Fiji custom makes this a relatively friendly destination for gay men with one proviso: Stay away from gay prostitutes.

In the Pacific islands, many families with a shortage of female offspring literally rear young boys as girls, or at least relegate them to female chores around the home and village. Some of them grow up to live a heterosexual existence; others choose a homosexual or bisexual lifestyle and, often appearing publicly in women's attire, actively seek the company of tourists. Some dance the female parts in traditional island night shows. You'll see them throughout Fiji; many hold jobs in hotels and restaurants.

On the other hand, women were not considered equal in this respect in ancient times; thus, "choosing" lesbianism was discouraged.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; fax 954/776-3303; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. MIM Travel (tel. 877/844-8055; www.gay-travel-by-mim.com) recently had a gay cruise aboard the Tahitian Princess, while Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) had one on the Star Flyer. Also check out Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com), a gay Australia tour specialist, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com), offering lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmunder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Escorted Tours & Independent Package Tours

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader (I prefer the old-fashion term "tour guide"). The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Escorted tours are not a big part of the business in Fiji, where it's easy to find your way around and book local tours and activities. Most of the travel agents I mention will have someone meet and greet you at the airport upon arrival, take you to your hotel, and make sure you get on any prearranged tours and activities; but you will not have a tour guide.

Some tour companies add a short stopover in Fiji to their escorted tours of Australia and New Zealand, but these may not include a guide for the island portion. Leaders in this add-on feature include Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com), Qantas Vacations (tel. 800/641-8772; www.qantasvacations.com), Australia Escorted Tours (tel. 888/333-6607; www.australia-escorted-tours.com), and Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/652-7986; www.abercrombiekent.com), which adds Fiji to its high-end escorted tours. Otherwise, I recommend getting a travel agent to track down an escorted tour.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is a deposit required?
• Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.
• Request a complete schedule. (Escorted tours only.)
• Ask about the size and demographics of the group. (Escorted tours only.)
• Discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and so on). (Escorted tours only.)
• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Packages for the Independent Traveler

In addition to searching for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Buying a package tour is simply a way to get the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even meals and activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. In fact, package tours usually provide the best bargains available.

Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours, which are structured tours with a group leader. Scant few escorted tours go to Fiji except as add-ons to tours primarily of Australia and New Zealand.

The costs are kept down because wholesale tour operators (known as wholesalers in the travel industry) can make volume bookings on the airlines and at the hotels. Packages traditionally were then sold through retail travel agents, but many wholesalers now deal directly with the public, thus passing savings along to you, rather than part of their commissions to retail agents.

Travel packages are listed in the travel section of many Sunday newspapers. Or check ads in magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Conde Nast Traveler.

Airlines frequently offer air-and-hotel packages, so be sure to check the websites of Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com/vacations) and Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com).

Following in alphabetical order are some reputable companies selling package tours. Some will discount air tickets and hotel rooms separately; that is, not as part of a package. Be sure to shop for the best deal among them.

• • Brendan Worldwide Vacations (tel. 800/421-8446 or 818/785-9696; www.brendanvacations.com) provides packages to Fiji.

• • Costco Travel (tel. 877/849-2730; www.costco.com) sells island packages to Costco members. The agency was a South Pacific specialist before Costco bought it.

• • Go-Today (tel. 800/227-3235; www.go-today.com), based in Washington State, offers discount-priced packages to Fiji.

• • Impulse Fiji (tel. 800/953-7595 in the U.S.; www.impulsefiji.com) is a Nadi-based firm owned by American Dick Beaulieu, who has lived in Fiji since 1980. He and his staff arrange personalized travel to Fiji, including money-saving last-minute deals.

• • Islands in the Sun (tel. 800/828-6877 or 310/536-0051; www.islandsinthesun.com), the largest and oldest South Pacific specialist, offers packages to Fiji.

• • Jetabout Island Vacations (tel. 800/348-8145; www.jetabouttahitivacations.com) of El Segundo, California, offers a wide variety of packages to Fiji. It's the U.S. representative of Qantas Vacations, an arm of the Australian airline.

• • Journey Pacific (tel. 800/704-7094; www.journeypacific.com) is a Las Vegas-based agency offering Fiji packages.

• • Newmans South Pacific Vacations (tel. 800/421-3326; www.newmansvacations.com) offers packages to Fiji. It's a long-established New Zealand company.

• • Pacific Destination Center (tel. 800/227-5317; www.pacific-destinations.com) is owned and operated by Australian-born Janette Ryan, who offers some good deals to the islands.

• • Pacific for Less (tel. 800/915-2776; www.pacific-for-less.com), based in Hawaii, specializes in high-end honeymoons.

• • Pleasant Holidays (tel. 800/742-9244; www.pleasantholidays.com), a huge company best known for its Pleasant Hawaiian and Pleasant Mexico operations, offers packages to Fiji.

• • South Pacific Direct (www.southpacificdirect.com) is an Internet-only firm offering deals to Fiji.

• • South Seas Adventures (tel. 800/576-7327; www.south-seas-adventures.com) has adventure travel packages to Fiji.

• • Sunspots International (tel. 800/334-5623 or 503/666-3893; www.sunspotsintl.com), based in Portland, Oregon, has trips specifically tailored to Fiji.

• • Swain Tahiti Tours (tel. 800/22-SWAIN (227-9246); www.swaintours.com) obviously knows a lot about Tahiti and French Polynesia but it also sells packages to Fiji.

• • Travel Arrangements Ltd. (tel. 800/392-8213; www.southpacificreservations.com) is operated by Fiji-born Ron Hunt, a veteran South Pacific travel agent who now lives in California. He sells packages and specializes in designing itineraries (and weddings) to suit your whims and pocketbook.

• Travelwizard (tel. 800/330-8220; www.travelwizard.com) specializes in designing luxury travel packages but also has less expensive offerings. Among its offerings are adventure, diving, and surfing trips to Fiji.

Other companies have adventure travel packages combining outdoor activities with accommodations.

Entry Requirements

Passports and Visas

All visitors must have a passport valid for 6 months beyond their visits and an onward or return airline ticket.

Visitor permits good for stays of up to 4 months are issued upon arrival to citizens of the United States; all Commonwealth countries; most European, South American, and South Pacific island nations; and Mexico, Japan, Israel, Pakistan, South Korea, Thailand, Tunisia, and Turkey.

Citizens of all other countries must apply for visas in advance from the Fiji embassies or consulates. In the United States, contact the Embassy of Fiji, Ste. 710, 2000 M St. NW, Washington, DC 20007 (tel. 202/466-8320; fax 202/466-8325; www.fijiembassy.org). Other Fiji embassies or high commissions are in Canberra and Sydney, Australia; Wellington, New Zealand; London, England; Brussels, Belgium; Tokyo, Japan; Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea; New Delhi, India; and Beijing, China. Check your local phone book, or go to www.fiji.gov.fj and click on "Fiji Missions Overseas."

Persons wishing to remain longer than their initial permits must apply for extensions from the Immigration Department, whose primary offices are at the Nadi International Airport terminal (tel. 672 2454; www.fiji.gov.fj) and in the Labour Department building on Victoria Parade in downtown Suva (tel. 321 1775).

Medical Requirements

Vaccinations are not required unless you have been in a yellow fever or cholera area shortly before arriving in Fiji.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Fiji -- Fiji's Customs allowances are 200 cigarettes; 2 liters of liquor, beer, or wine; and F$400 (US$260/£132) worth of other goods in addition to personal belongings. Pornography is prohibited. Firearms and nonprescription narcotic drugs are strictly prohibited and subject to heavy fines and jail terms. Any fresh fruits and vegetables must be declared and are subject to inspection and fumigation. You will need advance permission to bring any animal into Fiji; if not, your pet will be quarantined.

Note: Customs will X-ray all of your luggage upon arrival.

What You Can Take Home from Fiji -- U.S. citizens who have been in Fiji for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Getting Married

These romantic islands are marvelous places to get married, and becoming officially hitched is relatively easy in Fiji. You do not have to be a resident, and obtaining the necessary licenses and permits requires only a few days. Most resorts will take care of the formalities and organize traditional ceremonies (which can take place on the beach if you like). Their wedding coordinators will tell you what documents you will need to bring (or send in advance) and what local formalities you will need to execute. Do not even think of making the arrangements yourself.

Special-Interest Vacations

Although outdoor activities take first place in the islands, you can also spend your time learning a new craft, exploring the reefs as part of a conservation project, and whale- and dolphin-watching.

Bird-Watching

Avid bird-watchers are likely to see terns, boobies, herons, petrols, noddies, and many other seabirds throughout the islands. Land birds, on the other hand, live in the bush away from settlements and the accompanying cats, dogs, and rats, so you will need to head into the bush for the best watching.

With 26 endemic species of land birds, Fiji has more diversity than any other South Pacific island country. Many are on display in Kula Eco Park (tel. 650 0505; www.fijiwild.com), on Fiji's Coral Coast. Taveuni island is best for bird-watching in Fiji, with more than 100 species including the rare orange dove, which lives high on Des Veoux Peak. Savusavu on Vanua Levu is also good, especially the nearby Waisali Rainforest Reserve. Daku Resort in Savusavu (tel. 885 0046; www.dakuresort.com) hosts bird-watching tours run by veteran Fiji watcher Robin Mercer.

A few companies have bird-watching tours to Fiji, including the U.K.-based Bird Quest (tel. 44/1254 826317; www.birdquest.co.uk) and Birdwatching Breaks (tel. 44/1381 610495; www.birdwatchingbreaks.com).

Educational Courses

In addition to bird-watching, Daku Resort, in northern Fiji (tel. 885 0046; www.dakuresort.com), hosts weeklong courses in such subjects as novel writing, sketching, painting, quilting, and gospel singing. The courses are organized by creative writing teacher Delia Rothnie-Jones (she and her husband John own the resort). They have special package rates for the courses and will help you arrange air transportation to Fiji as well.

Ecotravel Tours

The Oceanic Society (tel. 800/326-7491; www.oceanic-society.org), an award-winning organization based in California, has natural history and ecotourism expeditions to Fiji. A marine naturalist accompanies its annual 11-day snorkeling to the colorful, pristine reefs off Namena and Taveuni islands in northern Fiji. The trip includes village visits and bird-watching excursions.

Seacology (tel. 510/559-3505; www.seacology.org), a California-based organization dedicated to preserving island cultures and environments, has an annual trip to Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort and occasionally to Samoa.

Fiji Adventures (tel. 888/418-4461; www.fijiadventures.com) offers several packages, one of which combines several cultural activities offered in Fiji such as river rafting, cave and waterfall visits, and a trip into Viti Levu's interior. The packages do not include airfare, but they save you from having to arrange each activity after you arrive in Fiji.

Formerly known as Tui Tai Adventure Cruises, the environmentally and culturally friendly Active Fiji (www.activefiji.com) uses a 42m (140-ft.) sailing schooner to explore out-of-the-way islands in northern Fiji. The boat goes to Fijian villages and carries mountain bikes as well snorkeling and diving gear.

Based in London but with an office in the U.S., the nonprofit Greenforce (tel. 0207 470 8888 in London, 740/416 4016 in the U.S.; www.greenforce.org) sends expeditions to help survey Fiji's coral reefs for the World Conservation Society. They'll even teach you to dive while you're there. The trips last from 6 to 10 weeks. Check the website for prices.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Climate change and rising sea levels resulting from global warming are having a noticeable impact on all the South Pacific islands. Fijians I have known for more than 30 years tell me the seasons are now unpredictable (it's more likely to rain in the dry season, and vice versa), and the tides are higher than ever (in some places the lagoons lap directly on shore at high tide rather than on the beach). Indeed, most islanders don't want to hear any corporate-induced spin about the lack of evidence of global warming and its consequences. They know it's true from firsthand experience.

Although Fiji has been slack in allowing some resort owners to remove parts of the reef to create marinas and swimming holes, it has laws protecting its lagoons, reefs, and sea life. To the Fijians, lagoons are not just places where you swim around and look at beautiful corals and sea life; they are major sources of food. Protecting their lagoons and reefs is a matter of survival.

Consequently, it's up to us visitors to practice sustainable tourism, which means being careful with the environments we explore, and respecting the communities we visit.

Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org. Specific volunteer options in Fiji are listed under "Special-Interest Trips," below.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodations ratings.

• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Land-line telephone service is provided throughout the country by Telecom Fiji Limited, or TFL (tel. 112 233; www.tfl.com.fj). Although calls are relatively expensive, it's a modern system.

To Call Fiji -- To call into Fiji, first dial the international access code (011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia), then Fiji's country code 679, and the local number (Fiji has no area codes).

To Call from Within Fiji -- To make an international call from within Fiji, first dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the area code and phone number. Calls to most countries cost F60? (US40?/20p) a minute when dialed directly. Frequent TFL promotions cut the price by 20% or more on nights and weekends.

Local Access Numbers -- You cannot use a credit card to make calls in Fiji, but several international long-distance carriers have local access numbers their customers can call to access their international networks and use their company cards: AT&T USA (tel. 004 890 1001); AT&T Canada (tel. 004 890 1009); Australia Telstra (tel. 004 890 6101); Australia Octopus (tel. 004 890 6102); Bell South (tel. 004 890 1008); BT (tel. 004 890 4401); BT Prepaid (tel. 004 890 4402); MCI (tel. 004 890 1002); New Zealand Telecom (tel. 004 890 6401); Sprint (tel. 004 890 1003); Teleglobe Canada (tel. 004 890 1005); and Verizon (tel. 004 890 1007). These numbers can be dialed toll-free from any land-line phone.

To Call Within Fiji -- No prefix or area code is required for domestic long-distance calls, so dial the local number.

Directory Assistance -- Dial tel. 011 for domestic information, tel. 022 for international numbers. (On the Web you can look up local numbers at www.whitepages.com.fj and www.yellowpages.com.fj.)

Operator Assistance -- Dial tel. 010 for operator assistance in making a call.

Toll-Free Numbers -- Local numbers beginning with 0800 are toll-free within Fiji, but calling a 1-800 number in the U.S. or Canada from Fiji is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Pay Phones -- Public phones are located at all post offices and in many other locations (look for Fijian war spears sticking out from plastic booths). You can make local, domestic long-distance ("trunk"), or international calls without operator assistance from any of them. They accept only prepaid Fiji Telecom Telecards, not coins. Post offices and many shops (including the gift shops in the Nadi Airport terminal) sell Telecards in denominations up to F$50 (US$33/#17). Scratch the tape off the back of the card to reveal your personal identification number (PIN), which you must enter prior to placing a call.

Cellphones

Known as "mobiles" over here, cellphones are prevalent throughout Fiji. No international wireless company operates here, and many American phones won't work since Fiji uses the Global System for Mobiles (GSM) technology. Although the technology is gaining in popularity worldwide, only T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system in the U.S. In Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM. All Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Call your wireless company to see if your phone is GSM.

If you do have a GSM phone, you may be able to use it in Fiji if your home provider has a roaming agreement with the local phone companies. Call your wireless operator and ask if it has roaming in Fiji, and if so, ask that "international roaming" be activated on your account.

If it doesn't, you may still use your phone (1) if it transmits and receives on the 900 mHz band; (2) it has been "unlocked" from its SIM card, the removable computer chip which stores your and your provider's information; and (3) you rent or buy a local SIM card.

The Travel Insider (www.thetravelinsider.info) has an excellent explanation of all this as well as a phone unlocking service. Click on "Road Warrior Resources" and "International Cellphone Service."

At press time, Digicel Pacific (www.digicelpacific.com) had been awarded a license to operate in Fiji, thus bringing competition to Vodaphone Fiji (tel. 672 6226; www.vodafone.com.fj), which had previously held a monopoly and was able to charge near exorbitant rates. Digicel has brought much lower cellphone prices to Samoa and Tonga, and hopefully it will do so in Fiji by the time you arrive.

In the meantime, Vodaphone rents both cellphones and GSM-compatible SIM cards for unlocked phones. It has a desk in the arrivals concourse at Nadi airport, which is staffed daily from 5am to 11pm and for major international flights, and offices in Nadi Town and Suva. Phones cost F$6 (US$4/#2) a day to rent, while SIM cards are F$2 (US$1.30/70p) per day, plus F95? (US60?/30p) per minute for outgoing calls to land lines, F50? (US35?/20p) to other mobile phones. Incoming calls are free. Vodaphone will pre-authorize a credit of F$200 (US$130/#66) on your credit card, to which it will bill your rental and usage fees.

An Australian firm, Inkk Mobile, sells phones and slightly discounted prepaid airtime over Vodaphone's network. The Tappoo department stores sell Inkk's phones and SIM cards.

You can also buy or rent cellphones to take to Fiji. Mobal (tel. 888/399-2418; www.mobal.com) sells GSM phones that work in Fiji and about 150 other countries for as little US$49 (#25), with no monthly fees or minimum usage requirements. Calls are billed to your credit card as you make them -- US$1.95 (#1) per minute for both incoming and outgoing calls within Fiji, US$3.95 (#2) from Fiji to the U.S. and Canada, US$5.95 (#3) from Fiji to other countries. Mobal gave me a U.K. cellphone number. Frankly, I found it less expensive to rent a phone or SIM during a short vacation in Fiji, but I carry my Mobal phone for emergencies, and I can use it when I am traveling in other countries.

Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

I use my laptop to call internationally using Skype (www.skype.com), a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP), which allows you to make free international calls from your laptop or in some cybercafes. Talking worldwide on Skype is free if the people you're calling also have it (that is, computer-to-computer calls). You can also make calls to land-line phones for a fee, which is based on the country you are calling, not where you are calling from. Skype calls to land-line phones in most Western countries cost about US2? (1p) per minute. Check Skype's website for details.

Internet and E-Mail

E-mail is as much a part of life in Fiji as it is anywhere else these days, but most Internet connections here are relatively slow. High-speed access is growing, but at best, the ADSL systems operate at 512 kilo bauds per second. That's a snail's pace compared to the 3 mega bauds per second or more in most Western countries.

Without Your Own Computer -- All but a few hotels and resorts have computers from which guests can send and receive e-mail and surf the Web, and cybercafes are widespread in Nadi and Suva, and present in Savusavu.

With Your Own Computer -- Some hotels now have wireless Internet connections, or wired high-speed Internet connections in their rooms, which I point out in the hotel listings in this book.

You can find wireless hot spots at some coffee shops in Nadi and Suva.

No international Internet service provider has a local access number in Fiji, but you can sign up for temporary dial-up access through Connect Internet Services (tel. 670 7359 in Nadi, 330 0100 in Suva; www.connect.com.fj), which as I write is Fiji's primary Internet service provider (the interim government was moving to allow competition). Connect charges F$15 (US$9.75/#5) 1 month's access, plus F8? (US5?/3p) a minute, which will be billed to your hotel room. (Be careful: Some hotels add a whopping service fee on top of these charges.)

Configuring Your Laptop -- Once you have purchased a temporary dial-up account from Connect, here's how to set up your computer in Windows XP and 2000:

• Double click on Control Panel.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

• Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)

Fast Facts

American Express -- Fiji does not have a full-service American Express representative.

Area Codes -- Fiji does not have domestic area codes. The country code for calling into Fiji is 679.

Business Hours -- Stores are generally open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 5pm, but many suburban stores stay open until 6pm and even 8pm. Sunday hours are from 8:30am to noon, although some tourist-oriented stores are open later. Shops in most hotels stay open until 9pm every day. Government office hours are Monday to Thursday from 8am to 4:30pm. Banking hours are Monday to Thursday 9:30am to 3pm, Friday 9:30am to 4pm.

Camera & Film -- Caines Photofast, the largest processor of Kodak films, has shops in the main towns where you can also download and print digital photos.

Customs -- Fiji's Customs allowances are 200 cigarettes; 2 liters of liquor, beer, or wine; and F$400 (US$260/£132) worth of other goods in addition to personal belongings. Pornography is prohibited. Firearms and nonprescription narcotic drugs are strictly prohibited and subject to heavy fines and jail terms. Any fresh fruits and vegetables must be declared and are subject to inspection and fumigation. Customs will X-ray all of your luggage upon arrival. You will need advance permission to bring any animal into Fiji; if not, your pet will be quarantined.

Drug Laws -- Marijuana is grown illegally up in the hills, but one drive past the Suva Gaol will convince you not to get caught buying it -- or smuggling narcotics or dangerous drugs into Fiji.

Drugstores -- The main towns have reasonably well-stocked pharmacies, or "chemists." Their medicines are likely to be from Australia or New Zealand. Many pharmacists will dispense medications without a prescription if you have your original bottle from home. The Morris Hedstrom department stores throughout Fiji carry a wide range of toiletries, including Coppertone, Colgate, and many other familiar brands.

Electricity -- Electric current in Fiji is 240 volts, 50 cycles. Many hotels have converters for 110-volt shavers, but these are not suitable for hair dryers. The plugs are the angled two-prong types used in Australia and New Zealand. Outlets have on/off switches mounted next to them.

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy is at 31 Loftus St., Suva (tel. 331 4466; www.amembassy-fiji.gov). Other major diplomatic missions in Suva are Australia, 37 Princes Rd., Tamavua (tel. 338 2211); New Zealand, 10th Floor, Reserve Bank of Fiji Building, Pratt Street (tel. 331 1422); United Kingdom, Victoria House, 47 Gladstone Rd. (tel. 331 1033); Japan, Second Floor, Dominion House, Thomson Street (tel. 330 2122); France, Seventh Floor, Dominion House, Thomson Street (tel. 331 2233); People's Republic of China, 147 Queen Elizabeth Dr. (tel. 330 0215); and South Korea, Eighth Floor, Vanua House, Victoria Parade (tel. 330 0977).

Emergencies -- The police emergency number is 917 throughout Fiji. The emergency telephone number for fire and ambulance is tel. 911.

Etiquette & Customs -- Modest dress is the order of the day, particularly in the villages. As a rule, don't leave the hotel swimming pool or the beach in bathing suits or other skimpy attire. That includes low-slung pants and shorts that show everything from your navel down to your you-know-what. If you want to run around half naked, go to Tahiti, where the French think it's cool. The Fijians do not.

Firearms -- Guns are illegal in Fiji, and persons found with them could be fined severely and sentenced to jail.

Gambling -- Fiji has no casinos, but you can play the local lottery.

Healthcare -- Medical and dental care in Fiji are not up to the standards common in the industrialized world. Most hotels have private physicians on call or can refer one. Doctors are listed at the beginning of the White Pages section of the Fiji telephone directory, under the heading "Medical Practitioners."

Hitchhiking -- Local residents seldom hitchhike, so the custom is not widespread, nor do I recommend it. Women traveling alone should never hitchhike in Fiji.

Insects -- Fiji has no dangerous insects, and its plentiful mosquitoes do not carry malaria. The only dangerous animal is the bolo, a venomous snake that is docile and rarely seen.

Insurance -- Medical Insurance -- Most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage in Fiji, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845 606 2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Language -- English is an official language of Fiji and most residents can speak it to some degree.

Liquor Laws -- The legal drinking age is 21. Most grocery stores sell beer, spirits, and wines from Australia and New Zealand. Both beer and spirits are produced locally and are considerably less expensive than imported brands, which are taxed heavily. While local Bounty rum is okay, the other stuff is rotgut. I bring quality brands of liquor with me. The locally brewed Fiji beer is served in a short bottle and known as a Stubbie. Fiji Gold is a lighter lager than Fiji Bitter. Most bars also sell Australian and New Zealand beers.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

Mail -- All the main towns have post offices operated by Fiji Post (www.postfiji.com.fj), and there is a branch at Nadi International Airport, across the entry road from the terminal. Allow at least a week for delivery of airmail letters from Fiji. Surface mail to North American and Europe can take 2 months or more. Mail moves faster if you use "Fiji Islands" on envelopes and packages sent here. Post offices usually are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. FedEx, UPS, and DHL Express all have express service into and out of Fiji.

Measurements -- Fiji is on the metric system.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Two national newspapers are published in English: the Fiji Times (www.fijitimes.com) and the Fiji Sun (www.sun.com.fj). Both appear daily and carry a few major stories from overseas. The international editions of Time and the leading Australian and New Zealand daily newspapers are available at some bookstores and hotel shops. Published monthly in Suva, the excellent Island Business Magazine (www.islandsbusiness.com) covers South Pacific regional news.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those 17 and under and 66 and over must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Police -- The nationwide emergency police number is tel. 917 throughout Fiji. The non-emergency numbers are tel. 670 0222 in Nadi, 334 3777 in Suva.

Radio & TV -- The Fijian government operates two nationwide AM radio networks with programming in Fijian and Hindi. Several private stations operate on the FM band in Suva and Nadi. The best is Radio Fiji Gold, which carries news bulletins on the hour and world, regional, and local news reports and weather bulletins daily at 7am and 6pm. The interim government has approved licenses for at least two more TV channels to join Fiji One, heretofore the country's sole over-the-air station. Fiji One has local news and weather at 6pm daily. The schedules are carried in the local newspapers. Many hotels have Sky TV, a pay system with the BBC, sports, and a few other channels.

Safety -- Property theft, armed robberies, burglaries, and home invasions are common. Caution is advised at all times, especially in Suva. Stick to the main streets everywhere after dark, and take a taxi back to your hotel if you're out late at night. Do not leave valuables in your hotel room or unattended elsewhere, including in rental cars and tour buses. Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches and should be extremely cautious about accepting a late-night lift back to their hotel or hostel.

Smoking -- Smoking is legally prohibited in many public buildings in Fiji, but not at hotels, businesses, and restaurants. Ask for a nonsmoking room at your hotel and an outside table at restaurants.

Taxes -- Fiji imposes a 12.5% value added tax (VAT) on most goods and services. These "VAT-inclusive prices," or VIP, are included in most prices. In addition, you will pay a 5% hotel tax. Hotels are not required to include the VAT and hotel tax in the rates they quote outside Fiji, so be sure to ask whether a quoted room rate includes all taxes and fees. You will not be entitled to a VAT refund when you leave the country.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph, telex, and fax services are provided at Fiji Post offices nationwide. Fiji Post also is an agent for Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com), as is Forex in Nadi Town (tel. 670 1666). You can telegraph (wire) money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent. Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it).

Time -- Local time in Fiji is 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Although the 180° meridian passes through Taveuni, all of Fiji is west of the international date line, so it's 1 day ahead of the United States and shares the same day with Australia and New Zealand. Translated: When it's 5am on Tuesday in Fiji, it's noon on Monday in New York and 9am on Monday in Los Angeles. Fiji does not observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Tipping is discouraged throughout Fiji unless truly exceptional service has been rendered. That's not to say that the porter won't give you that where's-my-money look once he figures out you're an American.

Tips for Women Travelers

Fiji is relatively safe for women traveling alone, but don't let the charm of warm nights and smiling faces lull you into any less caution than you would exercise at home. Do not wander alone on deserted beaches. In the old days this was an invitation for sex. If that's what you want today, then that's what you're likely to get. Otherwise, it could result in your being raped.

And don't ever hitchhike alone, either.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Tips for Single Travelers

Having traveled alone through the South Pacific for more years than I care to admit, I can tell you Fiji is a great place to be unattached. After all, this is the land of smiles and genuine warmth toward strangers. The attitude soon infects visitors: All I've ever had to do to meet my fellow travelers is wander into a hotel bar, order a beer, and ask the persons next to me where they are from and what they have done on their vacations.

And with its backpacker industry, Fiji seems to be crawling with young singles at all times.

Unfortunately, the solo traveler outside backpacker hostels is often forced to pay a "single supplement" charged by many resorts, cruise lines, and tours for the privilege of sleeping alone.

TravelChums (tel. 212/799-6464; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service hosted by respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Based in Canada, Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com) runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge and save you the cost of single supplements.

Calendar of Events

Fiji has no grand nationwide festival around which to plan a visit, but there are local events that will enrich your time here. Many are Hindu festivals, whose timing changes from year to year.

February/March

Hindu Holi, nationwide. Hindus throughout Fiji often squirt each other with colored water during Hindu Holi, their Festival of Colors. February or March.

July

Bula Festival, Nadi. The town goes all out in July for its annual big bash, with parades, music, and cultural demonstrations. Mid-July.

Hindu Fire Walking, nationwide. Some Hindus engage in fire walking during soul-cleansing rituals, but unlike Fijian fire walkers, they do not perform for tourists at hotels. July or August.

August

Hibiscus Festival, Suva. The capital city's Hibiscus Festival is as close to a national festival as Fiji has. A carnival atmosphere prevails as thousands gather in Albert Park. Mid-August.

September

Sugar Festival Lautoka. Viti Levu's "Sugar City" gets into the act with its annual Sugar Festival. September.

Fiji Regatta Week, Mamanuca Islands. Cruising yachts from around the region gather at Musket Cove Island Resort in the Mamanucas for races, bikini contests, and the consumption of many thousands of Fiji Bitters. Some yachts then race to Port Vila in Vanuatu. Mid-September.

November

South Pacific World Music Festival. Regional artists converge on Savusavu for 3 days of music making. Go to www.fiji-savusavu.com for details. Early November.

Diwali Festival, nationwide. Although it's the Hindu festival of lights, every Fiji resident seems to put candles in their yards and set off fireworks during this holiday. October 30, 2008, and November 15, 2009.