Planning a trip to Finland

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London EC1V 8AF (tel. 020/7250-3222; www.radar.org.uk), publishes three holiday "fact packs." The first provides general information, including tips for planning and booking a holiday, obtaining insurance, and handling finances; the second outlines transportation available when going abroad and equipment for rent; and the third deals with specialized accommodations. Another good resource is Holiday Care Service, Seventh Floor, Sunley House, 4 Bedford Park, Croydon, Surrey CR0 2AP (tel. 0845/124-9971; www.holidaycare.org.uk), a national charity advising on accessible accommodations for seniors and persons with disabilities. Annual membership is £37 ($67).

Finland has been in the vanguard of providing services for people with disabilities. In general, trains, airlines, ferries, department stores, and malls are accessible. For information about wheelchair access, ferry and air travel, parking, and other matters, your best bet is to contact the Scandinavian Tourist Board.

In Finland, you may obtain general information from Rullaten ry, Hile Meckelborg, Pajutie 7, FIN-02770 Espoo, Finland (tel. 09/805-73-93; www.rullaten.fi).

Calendar of Events

The dates given in this calendar can vary from year to year. Check with the Scandinavian Tourist Board for the exact dates and contact information.

February

Finlandia Ski Race-Ski Marathon, Hämeenlinna-Lahti. With almost 80km (50 miles) of cross-country skiing, this mass event is part of the Euroloppet and Worldloppet competitions. For more information, call tel. 81-68-13 or visit www.finlandiahiihto.fi. Late February.

March

Oulu Tar Ski Race, Oulu. This cross-country ski race has taken place each year, without interruption, since it was first established more than a century ago. Following a course that stretches more than 76km (47 miles) -- and with hundreds of participants -- it's the oldest long-distance cross-country ski race in the world. For more information, call tel. 88-5584-1330; www.oulu.ouka.fi. Early to mid-March.

April

Walpurgis Eve Celebration. After a long, cold winter, most Helsinki residents turn out to celebrate the arrival of spring. Celebrations are held at Market Square, followed by May Day parades and other activities the next morning. Check www.istc.org. April 30.

May

May Day. Parades and other celebrations herald the arrival of spring. For information, serch www.finnguide.fi. May 1.

Women's 10km. This is a 10km (6-mile) foot race for women. For more detailed information on this event, contact any office of the Scandinavian Tourist Board (tel. 212/885-9700 in the U.S., or 09/310-1691; www.hel.fi). Late May.

June

Kuopio Dance Festival. This international dance event has a different theme every year, such as dances in Japan, the Middle East, and North Africa. For more information, call tel. 050/322-5220 or visit www.kuopiodancefestival.fi. Mid to late June.

Midnight Sun Film Festival, Sodankylä. The world's northernmost film festival features nostalgic releases from the great film masters -- mainly European -- but also new names in the film world. For more information, call tel. 81/66-14-524 or visit www.msfilmfestival.fi. Dates vary.

July

Savonlinna Opera Festival. One of Europe's best-known music festivals, this is part of a cultural tradition established in 1912. Dozens of performances are held in the island fortress of Olavinlinna Castle in July. Internationally renowned artists perform a variety of works, including at least one Finnish opera. For details and complete information, contact the Savonlinna Opera Festival, Olavinkatu 27, FIN-57130 Savonlinna (tel. 015/47-67-50; www.operafestival.fi). Early July to early August.

Kaustinen Folk Music Festival. This is the biggest international folk festival in Scandinavia. For more information, contact the Folk Arts Centre (tel. 06/888-6111; www.kaustinen.fi). Dates vary.

August

Turku Music Festival (tel. 02/262-0814; www.turkumusicfestival.fi). A wide range of music is presented from the Renaissance and the baroque periods (played on the original instruments) to modern, light music. Second week of August.

Helsinki City Marathon (tel. 09/3481-2405; www.helsinkicitymarathon.com). This event attracts both Finnish and foreign runners of varying abilities. Mid-August.

Helsinki Festival. A major Scandinavian musical event, the Helsinki Festival presents orchestral concerts by outstanding soloists and ensembles; chamber music and recitals; exhibitions; ballet, theater, and opera performances; and jazz, pop, and rock concerts. For complete information about the program, contact the Helsinki Festival, Lasipalatsi Mannerheimintie 22-24 FIN-00100 Helsinki (tel. 09/612-651-00; www.helsinkifestival.fi). Mid-August to early September.

October

The Baltic Herring Market. Since the 1700s, there has been an annual herring market along the quays of Helsinki's Market Square in early October. Prizes and blue ribbons go to the tastiest herring. Fishers continue the centuries-old tradition of bringing their catch into the city and selling it from their boats. First week in October. Call tel. 09/173-331 for information.

Getting There

By Plane

Flying in winter -- Scandinavia's off season -- is cheapest; summer is the most expensive. In any season, midweek fares (Mon-Thurs) are the lowest.

SAS (Scandinavian Airlines Systems; tel. 800/221-2350 in the U.S., or 0870/6072-7727 in the U.K.; www.flysas.com) has more nonstop flights to Scandinavia from more North American cities than any other airline, and it has more flights to and from Denmark and within Scandinavia than any other airline in the world. From Seattle and Chicago, SAS offers nonstop flights to Copenhagen daily in midsummer and almost every day in winter; from Newark, New Jersey, there are daily flights year-round to Copenhagen.

People traveling from Britain can fly SAS (tel. 0870/6072-77-27; www.flysas.com in London) from London's Heathrow to Stockholm on any of five daily nonstop flights. Flying time is about 2 1/2 hours each way. Likewise, SAS flies daily to Stockholm from Manchester, making a brief stop in Copenhagen en route. Flight time from Manchester to Stockholm is about 3 1/2 hours each way.

With more flights to Helsinki from more parts of the world (including Europe, Asia, and North America) than any other airline, Finnair (tel. 800/950-5000 in the U.S.; www.finnair.com) is the only airline flying nonstop from North America to Finland (an 8-hr. trip). From New York, Finnair flies to Helsinki every day. The airline also maintains twice-weekly nonstop service to Helsinki throughout the year from Miami.

Finnair (tel. 0870/241-4411 in London; www.finnair.com) also offers more frequent service to Helsinki from several airports in Britain; there are three or four daily nonstop flights from either Heathrow or Stanstead Airport, and one or two daily flights from Manchester. Flight time from London to Helsinki is 2 hours, 50 minutes; from Manchester, it's 3 hours, 40 minutes.

Several other airlines fly from all parts of the world to gateway European cities and then connect to Helsinki. Foremost among these is British Airways (BA; tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297] in the U.S., or 0870/850-9850; www.britishairways.com), which offers hundreds of daily flights into the U.K. from all over the world. From London's Heathrow, BA offers one or two daily nonstop flights to Helsinki, depending on the day of the week.

From the U.K. -- British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297], or 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com) offers convenient connections through Heathrow and Gatwick to Copenhagen. The price structure (and discounted prices on hotel packages) sometimes makes a stopover in Britain less expensive than you might have thought. SAS offers five daily nonstop flights to Copenhagen from Heathrow (1 3/4 hr.), two daily nonstops from Glasgow (2 hr.), and three daily nonstops from Manchester (2 hr., 20 min.). Other European airlines with connections through their home countries to Copenhagen include Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500 in the U.S., or 0870/787-4020 in the U.K.; www.icelandair.com); KLM (tel. 800/225-2525 in the U.S., or 0870/507-4074 in the U.K.; www.klm.com); and Lufthansa (tel. 800/645-3880 in the U.S., or 0870/8377-747 in the U.K.; www.lufthansa.com). Be aware, however, that unless you make all your flight arrangements in North America before you go, you might find some of these flights prohibitively expensive.

For Norway-bound passengers from the U.K., British Airways (tel. 0844/493-0787 in the U.K.) operates at least four daily nonstops to Oslo from London. SAS (tel. 0870/6072-7727 in the U.K.) runs four daily flights from Heathrow to Oslo. Flying time from London to Oslo on any airline is around 2 hours.

By Train

A rail and ferryboat link between London and Helsinki goes via Ostende (Belgium), Cologne, Hamburg, and Stockholm. If you've taken the ferry from Stockholm and are arriving at Turku, on the west coast of Finland, you can catch one of the seven daily trains (including the high-speed Pendolino) that take you across southern Finland to Helsinki. The trip takes 2 1/4 hours. Rail connections are also possible from London to Hook of Holland (the Netherlands), Bremen, Hamburg, and Stockholm. However, each of these itineraries takes about 50 hours, plus a 2-hour stopover in Stockholm. It's possible to reserve sleepers and couchettes, but do so as far in advance as possible. Helsinki is also linked by rail to the major cities of Finland.

Rail Passes for North American Travelers
Eurailpass -- The Eurailpass permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are available for purchase online (www.eurail.com) and at various offices/agents around the world. Travel agents and railway agents in such cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell Eurailpasses. You can purchase them at the North American offices of CIT Travel Service, the French National Railroads, the German Federal Railroads, and the Swiss Federal Railways. It is strongly recommended that you purchase passes before you leave home as not all passes are available in Europe; also, passes purchased in Europe will cost about 20% more. Numerous options are available for travel in France.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 20 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are US$745 for 15 days, US$965 for 21 days, US$1,199 for 1 month, US$1,695 for 2 months, and US$2,089 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 20 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs US$629 for 15 days, US$819 for 21 days, US$1,019 for 1 month, US$1,439 for 2 months, and US$1,785 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs US$485 for 15 days, US$625 for 21 days, US$779 for 1 month, US$1,099 for 2 months, and US$1,359 for 3 months.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: for 5 days in 2 months you pay US$469 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth for travelers under 26 allow second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Select Pass, with fees starting at US$305. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together, first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Select Pass, with fees starting at US$399.

Where to Buy Rail Passes -- Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL [272-7245]; www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY (tel. 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers under 26 years of age; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

Scanrail Pass -- If your visit to Europe will be primarily in Scandinavia, the Scanrail pass may be better and cheaper than the Eurailpass. This pass allows its owner a designated number of days of free rail travel within a larger time block. (Presumably, this allows for days devoted to sightseeing scattered among days of rail transfers between cities or sites of interest.) You can choose a total of any 5 days of unlimited rail travel during a 15-day period, 10 days of rail travel within a 1-month period, or 1 month of unlimited rail travel. The pass, which is valid on all lines of the state railways of Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden, offers discounts or free travel on some (but not all) of the region's ferry lines as well. The pass can be purchased only in North America. It's available from any office of RailEurope (tel. 800/848-7245) or ScanAm World Tours, 108 N. Main St., Cranbury, NJ 08512 (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scandinaviantravel.com).

Depending on whether you choose first- or second-class rail transport, 5 days in 10 days costs $249 to $329, 8 days out of 2 months costs $180 to $360, 10 days out of 22 days costs $359 to $489, and 21 consecutive days of unlimited travel costs $469 to $629. Seniors get an 11% discount, and students receive a 30% discount.

Rail Passes for British Travelers
If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you may prefer one of the three rail passes designed for unlimited train travel within a designated region during a predetermined number of days. These passes are sold in Britain and several other European countries.

An InterRail Pass is available to passengers of any nationality, with some restrictions -- they must be under age 26 and able to prove residency in a European or North African country (Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia) for at least 6 months before buying the pass. It allows unlimited travel through Europe, except Albania and the republics of the former Soviet Union. Prices are complicated and vary depending on the countries you want to include. For pricing purposes, Europe is divided into eight zones; the cost depends on the number of zones you include. For ages 25 and under, the most expensive option (£399) allows 1 month of unlimited travel in all eight zones and is known to the staff as a "global." The least expensive option (£159) allows 5 days of travel within 10 days.

Passengers age 26 and older can buy an InterRail 26-Plus Pass. The cost varies from £359 to £489 for 16 days to £599 to £809 for 1 month. Passengers must meet the same residency requirements that apply to the InterRail Pass.

For information on buying individual rail tickets or any of the just-mentioned passes, contact National Rail Inquiries, Victoria Station, London (tel. 08705/848-848). Tickets and passes also are available at any of the larger railway stations, as well as selected travel agencies throughout Britain and the rest of Europe.

By Car

From Western Scandinavia -- The quickest routes to Finland are the E-3 or E-4 to Stockholm, and the year-round 14- to 16-hour ferry from there to Helsinki.

From Germany -- From Travemünde there's a year-round high-speed car ferry that takes 22 hours to reach Helsinki.

From Denmark -- Take the car ferry from Helsingør to Helsingborg in Sweden or the Øresund Bridge from Copenhagen to Malmö, and then drive to Stockholm and catch the car ferry to Helsinki or Turku.

By Bus

Although there are international bus links to Finland, this is the least convenient mode of transportation. One of the most popular is a bus connection from Stockholm -- it includes a sea crossing to Turku, with continuing land service to Helsinki.

It's also possible to take coaches from Gothenburg going cross-country to Stockholm and to the ferry dock beyond, with land travel resuming after Turku on the same bus all the way to Helsinki.

For information about international bus connections and reservations, contact Oy Matkahuolto Ab, Simonkatu 3, FIN-00101 Helsinki (tel. 09/682-701; www.matkahuolto.fi).

By Ship & Ferry

From Sweden -- Frequent ferries run between Sweden and Finland, especially between Stockholm and Helsinki. Service is on either the Viking or Silja Line. Each company also operates a twice-daily service from Stockholm to Turku on Finland's west coast.

From Germany -- The Silja Line also maintains regular passenger service from June 5 to September 15 between Travemünde (Germany) and Helsinki. You can get information about the Silja Line at Mannerheimintie 2, FIN-00101 Helsinki (tel. 8600/15-700; www.tallinksilja.com). Information on the Viking Line is available at Mannerheimintie 14, FIN-00101 Helsinki (tel. 09/123-51; www.vikingline.fi).

Tips for Families

Scandinavians like kids but don't offer a lot of special amenities for them. For example, a kiddies' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. You can, however, order a half portion, and most waiters will oblige.

At attractions -- even if it isn't specifically posted -- inquire if a kids' discount is available. European Community citizens 17 and under are admitted free to all state-run museums.

Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The Helsinki branch is at Mannerheimintie (tel. 10/818-9101). It's open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. Whenever it's closed, you can call a 24-hour-a-day toll-free information line about lost or stolen credit cards or traveler's checks by dialing tel. 09/613-20400. That number is valid only within Finland.

Area Code -- The international country code for Finland is 358.

Business Hours -- Most banks are open Monday to Friday 9:15am to 4:15pm. You can also exchange money at the railway station in Helsinki daily from 8am to 9pm, and at the airport daily from 6:30am to 11pm. The hours for stores and shops vary. Most are open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm. Nearly everything is closed on Sunday. There are R-kiosks -- which sell candy, tobacco, toiletries, cosmetics, and souvenirs -- all over Helsinki and elsewhere; they're open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 9pm and Sunday from 9 or 10am to 9pm.

Drinking Laws -- Alcohol can be bought at retail from Alko, the state liquor-monopoly shops. They're open Monday to Thursday 10am to 5pm, Friday 10am to 6pm, and Saturday 9am to 3pm; they're closed on Sunday and on May 1 and September 30. Alcoholic drinks can also be purchased at hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs. Some establishments, incidentally, are licensed only for beer (or beer and wine). Only beer can be served from 9 to 11am. In Helsinki, most licensed establishments stay open until midnight or 1am (until 11pm in some cities). You must be at least 20 years of age to buy hard liquor at the Alko shops; 18- and 19-year-olds can buy beer, wine, or other beverages that contain less than 22% alcohol.

Drug Laws -- Drug offenses are divided into two categories: normal drug offenses and aggravated drug offenses. Normal drug offenses include the possession of a small amount of marijuana (which carries a maximum penalty of 2 years in prison and a minimum penalty of a fine for Finns and possible deportation for non-Finns). Aggravated drug offenses entail the ownership, sale, or dealing of dangerous drugs, including cocaine and heroin. This offense always carries a prison term of 1 to 10 years. Penalties for smuggling drugs across the Finnish border are even more severe.

Drug Stores -- Medicines are sold at pharmacies (apteekki in Finnish). Chemists (kemikaalipauppa) sell cosmetics only. Some pharmacies are open 24 hours, and all of them display notices giving the address of the nearest one on night duty.

Electricity -- Finland operates on 220 volts AC. Plugs are usually the continental size with rounded pins. Always ask at your hotel desk before plugging in any electrical appliance. Without an appropriate transformer or adapter, you'll probably destroy the internal mechanism of your appliance or blow out one of the hotel's fuses.

Embassies & Consulates -- The embassy of the United States is at Itäinen Puistotie 14A, FIN-00140 Helsinki (tel. 09/616-250); the embassy of the United Kingdom is at Itäinen Puistotie 17, FIN-00140 Helsinki (tel. 09/228-651-00); the embassy of Canada is at Pohjoisesplanadi 25B, FIN-00100 Helsinki (tel. 09/22-85-30). The consulate of Australia is at Museokatu 25B, FIN-00100 (tel. 09/47-77-66-40), and the consulate of New Zealand is at Hietalahdenranta 13 FIN-00180 Helsinki (tel. 09/615-615 or 657-681).

If you're planning to visit Russia after Finland and need information about visas, the Russian embassy is at Tehtaankatu 1B, FIN-00140 Helsinki (tel. 09/66-18-77). However, it's better to make all your travel arrangements to Russia before you leave home.

Emergencies -- In Helsinki, dial tel. 112; for the police, call tel. 100-22.

Holidays -- The following holidays are observed in Finland: New Year's Day (Jan 1); Epiphany (Jan 6); Good Friday; Easter Monday; Labor Day (May 1); Ascension Day (mid-May); Whitmonday (late May); Midsummer Eve and Midsummer Day (Fri and Sat of weekend closest to June 24); All Saints' Day (Nov 6); Independence Day (Dec 6); and Christmas and Boxing Days (Dec 25 and 26).

Language -- The Finns speak a language that, from the perspective of grammar and linguistics, is radically different from Swedish and Danish. Finnish is as difficult to learn as Chinese, and a source of endless frustration to newcomers. More than 90% of Finns speak Finnish, and the remaining population speaks mostly Swedish. Officially, Finland is a bilingual country, as you'll quickly see from maps and street signs in Helsinki (the street names are usually given in both languages).

The use of English, however, is amazingly common throughout Finland, especially among young people. In all major hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs, English is spoken almost without exception. The best phrase book is Berlitz Finnish for Travellers, with 1,200 phrases and 2,000 useful words, as well as the corresponding pronunciations.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Most hotels provide these services. There are coin-operated launderettes and dry cleaners in most Finnish cities.

Mail -- Airmail letters take about 7 to 10 days to reach North America; surface mail -- sent by boat -- takes 1 to 2 months. Parcels are weighed and registered at the post office, which may ask you to declare the value and contents of the package on a preprinted form. Stamps are sold at post offices in all towns and cities, at most hotels, sometimes at news kiosks, and often by shopkeepers who offer the service for customers' convenience. In Finland, mailboxes are bright yellow with a trumpet embossed on them. For postal information, call tel. 09/980-071-00.

Newspapers & Magazines -- English-language newspapers, including the International Herald Tribune and USA Today, are available at the larger bookstores, the railway station, and many kiosks in Helsinki and other cities.

Police -- Dial tel. 112 in Helsinki. In smaller towns, ask the operator to connect you with the nearest police station.

Safety -- Finland is one of the safest countries in Europe, although with the arrival of desperately poor immigrants from former Communist lands to the south, the situation is not as tranquil or as safe as before.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned on public transport, in cinemas, schools, sports halls, hospitals, stores, and other public places. It is also banned in restaurants, coffee shops, and nightclubs, except where a closed, special smoking room with separate ventilation is provided.

Taxes -- A 17% to 22% sales tax is added to most retail purchases in Finland. However, anyone residing outside the E.U., Norway, or Finland can shop tax-free in Finland, saving 12% to 16% on purchases costing more than 40€ ($52). Look for the TAX-FREE FOR TOURISTS sticker that indicates which shops participate in this program. These shops give you a voucher covering the tax, which you can cash when you leave the country -- even if you bought the items with a credit or charge card. The voucher and your purchases must be presented at your point of departure from the country, and you are then reimbursed for the amount of the tax. You're not permitted to use these tax-free purchases within Finland. Your refund can be collected at an airport, ferry port, or highway border point.

Telephone -- To make international calls from Finland by direct dialing, first dial the international prefix of 990, 994, or 999, then the country code, then the area code (without the general prefix 0), and finally the local number. For information on long-distance calls and tariffs, call tel. 0800/909-99.

To place calls to Finland, dial whatever code is needed in your country to reach the international lines (for example, in the United States, dial 011 for international long distance), then the country code for Finland (358), then the area code (without the Finnish long-distance prefix 0), and finally the local number.

To make long-distance calls within Finland, dial 0 to reach the long-distance lines (the choice of carrier is at random), the area code, and the local number. (Note that all area codes in this guide are given with the prefix 0.) For phone number information, dial tel. 02-02-02. Besides phone booths and hotels, calls can be made from local post and telephone offices.

You can send faxes and telex messages from your hotel (at an additional charge).

Time -- Finnish Standard Time is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and 7 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Standard Time (when it's midnight in New York, it's 7am in Finland). While Finland is on "summer time" (Mar 28-Sept 26), it is 3 hours ahead of GMT.

Tipping -- It's standard for hotels and restaurants to add a service charge of 15% and usually no further tipping is necessary. In restaurants, it's customary to leave just small change. Taxi drivers don't expect a tip. However, it's appropriate to tip doormen at least 1€ ($1.60), and bellhops usually get 1€ ($1.60) per bag (in most Finnish provincial hotels, you normally carry your own luggage to your room). At railway stations, porters are usually tipped 1€ ($1.60) per bag. Hairdressers and barbers don't expect tips. Coat check charges are usually posted; there's no need for additional tipping.

Toilets -- Most public restrooms are in terminals (air, bus, and rail). Hotels usually have very clean toilets, as do the better restaurants and clubs. Most toilets have symbols to designate men or women. Otherwise, naisille is for women and miehille is for men.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

American, Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens need only a valid passport to enter Finland. Members of E.U. countries (except Greece), Liechtenstein, San Marino, and Switzerland are allowed entry with a valid identity card issued by those countries. You need to apply for a visa only if you want to stay more than 3 months. For U.K. subjects, a visitor's passport is also valid for a holiday or even for some business trips of less than 3 months. The passport can include both a husband and wife, and it's valid for 1 year. You can apply in person at a main post office in the British Isles, and the passport will be issued that same day.

Passports

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of the United States -- Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. Department of State website or call the toll-free number of the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

You can contact the U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.).

You can reach the U.S. Passport Agency at tel. 202/647-0518, and U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline at tel. 800/232-4636.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Customs

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 02920/501-261 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

What You Can Bring into Finland -- All personal effects, including cameras and a reasonable amount of film (or other items intended for your own use) can be brought in duty-free. You can bring in 200 cigarettes or 250 grams of other manufactured tobacco. You can also bring in 15 liters of beer, 2 liters of wine, and 1 liter of spirits or 2 liters of beer and 2 liters of wine. You must be over the age of 18 to bring in beer or wine and over 20 to bring in other alcohol. There are no restrictions on the amount of euros that can be taken in or out of the country.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. (Even worldphone owners will have to rent new phones if they're traveling to non-GSM regions.) While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi "hot spots." To locate international hot spots that provide free wireless networks, go to www.jiwire.com.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes are found in all large cities, especially Copenhagen, Oslo, and Stockholm. But they do not tend to cluster in any particular neighborhoods because of competition.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

Money

The euro, the new single European currency, became the official currency of Finland and 11 other participating countries on January 1, 1999.

However, the euro didn't go into general circulation until early 2002. The old currency, the Finnish mark, disappeared into history on March 1, 2002, replaced by the euro, whose official abbreviation is "EUR." The symbol of the euro is a stylized E: €. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar. For more details on the euro, check out www.europa.eu.

The U.S. Dollar & the Euro -- At the time of this writing, US$1 was worth approximately .625€. Inversely stated, 1€ was worth approximately US$1.60.

The British Pound, the U.S. Dollar & the Euro -- At press time, £1 equaled approximately US$2, and approximately 1.25€.

The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar & the Euro -- At press time, CD$1 equaled approximately US$1 and approximately 1.60€.

ATMS -- Plus, Cirrus, and other networks connecting automated teller machines operate throughout Scandinavia. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you leave home. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee when a card is used at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be up to $5 or more for international transactions. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash will likely charge its own fee.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

SETA ry, Hietalahdenkatu 2B, FIN-00180 Helsinki (tel. 09/681-2580; www.seta.fi), is a good source of information about gay life in the capital and Finland as a whole. The office is open Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm.

Regions in Brief

Helsinki & the Southern Coast -- More than 25% of Finland's people live in Helsinki, the capital of the country and the center of entertainment and culture; it's also a crossroads between western and eastern Europe. The eastern and central areas of the south are characterized by fertile farmland, crisscrossed by many rivers. The western land in the south has many shallow lakes and ridges. Porvoo, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Helsinki, was founded by the Swedes in 1346. It was the site of the first Finnish Diet, when the country became a Grand Duchy. Kotka is home to the Langinkoski Imperial Fishing Lodge, used by Czar Alexander III.

Turku & the Åland Islands -- The city of Turku, Finland's oldest city and former capital, is on the west coast. Its location on the Gulf of Bothnia, combined with a mild climate (its port remains ice-free year-round), have made this city an important center for trade and commerce. Naantali, 19km (12 miles) northwest of Turku, is one of the finest examples of a medieval Finnish town. At the entrance to the Gulf of Bothnia, only 120km (75 miles) from Stockholm, are the Åland Islands (about 6,500 in total). Only about 80 of the islands are inhabited, and all of their residents speak Swedish. The only significant town in the Ålands is Mariehamn, a fishing and tourist community founded in 1861.

The Lake Region -- Central Finland is home to thousands of lakes created millions of years ago by glaciers. This region is an important tourist area, with many resorts along the shores of the lakes. In this region you'll find Tampere, Finland's second-largest city. Although an industrial city, Tampere's location on an isthmus nestled between two lakes provides an enchanting backdrop for this young, vibrant city. Lahti is on the shores of Lake Vesijärvi, the gateway to Finland's most scenic lake systems. The resort of Lappeenranta, founded in 1649 just 16km (10 miles) from the Russian border, has been one of Finland's most popular spa resorts. Here you'll find Linnoitus, a fortress that was used by the Swedes and the Russians to stave off hostile attacks along this contested border. Imatra, in the southeast near the Russian border, is as close to St. Petersburg as it is to Helsinki. Outside town is the Imatra Rapids, one of Europe's most powerful waterfalls. The most visited town in the Lake Region is Savonlinna. Because of its strategic location on the Saimaa waterway, many battles have been waged for control of its 15th-century castle, Olavinlinna. This spa town was also a favorite resort of the Russian tsars.

Finnish Lapland -- Lapland makes up more than one-third of Finland. Known throughout the world, this is the land of the midnight sun, reindeer, and the Sami, with their traditional garb. Lapland is largely forested and untamed; bears and wolves still rule the land. Fishing and logging are the mainstays of the economy. Eight kilometers (5 miles) south of the Arctic Circle, the capital city, Rovaniemi, is a modern new town, rebuilt after the Nazis destroyed it during their retreat from Finland. The port of Kemi, which is situated at the mouth of the Kemikoji River, is the transit point for the many thousands of logs that are felled in Lapland, floated downriver, and either loaded onto seagoing barges or transformed into lumber and paper products on-site. The village of Tankavaara is a major destination for those hunting for gold. Its rivers are ripe for gold panning. The Sami village of Inari, on the shores of Lake Inari, is a thriving community that depends on reindeer farming and tourism. Not far from here is Finland's largest ski resort, Saariselk. Lapland is also home to Finland's largest national park, Lemmenjoki, and countless panoramic waterfalls and swift rivers.

Escorted & Package Tours

The oldest travel agency in Britain, Cox & Kings, Gordon House 10, Greencoat Place, London SW1P 1PH (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), was established in 1758. Today the company specializes in unusual, if pricey, holidays. Its offerings in Scandinavia include cruises through the spectacular fjords and waterways, bus and rail tours through sites of historic and aesthetic interest, and visits to the region's best-known handicraft centers, Viking burial sites, and historic churches. The company's staff is noted for its focus on tours of ecological and environmental interest.

To cycle through the splendors of Scandinavia, you can join Britain's oldest and largest association of bicycle riders, the Cyclists' Touring Club, CTC Parklands, Railton Road Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX (www.ctc.org.uk). Founded in 1878, it charges £12 to £35 ($23-$67) a year for membership, which includes information, maps, a subscription to a newsletter packed with practical information and morale boosters, plus recommended cycling routes through virtually every country in Europe. The organization's information bank on scenic routes through Scandinavia is especially comprehensive. Membership can be arranged over the phone with a credit card (such as MasterCard, Visa, Access, or Barclaycard).

The best tours of Finland are offered by Finnair (tel. 800/950-5000 in the U.S.; www.finnair.com), including its most popular, the Midnight Sun Flight (Helsinki-Rovaniemi-Helsinki). Any Finnair office around the world can provide information about tours for exploring Finland.

If you'd like to see as much as possible of Finland's highlights in the shortest possible time, consider one of the Friendly Finland Tours, lasting 3 to 6 days. This tour is operated by the Finland Travel Bureau, Kaivokatu 10A, PB 319, FIN-00101 Helsinki (tel. 806/0097-000; www.smt.fi). Bookings can be made through any travel agent.

There's no better way to discover the natural beauty of Finland's lake region than by cruising its waters. Five Stars of Scandinavia (tel. 800/722-4126; fax 360/923-0488; www.5stars-of-scandinavia.com) conducts the best tours of Finland's Lake District. From June to August, one of their most popular tours is a 2-night/3-day tour of the Saimaa Lakeland, highlighted by a visit to the town of Savonlinna. Except for international airfares, prices begin at $1,020 per person, based on double occupancy, with a single supplement of $180.

Finnsov Tours Oy Ltd., Eerikinkatu 3 (tel. 09/436-69-60; http://finnsov.fi), in Helsinki offers the most comprehensive tours of both the countryside of Finland and St. Petersburg and Moscow. Discuss your needs with the staff at Finnsov -- musical festivals, an overnight in a glass igloo, a journey to see the aurora borealis (northern lights). The company's tours above the Arctic Circle are especially recommended, including action-packed adventures to Rovaniemi, capital of Lapland.

For a complete list of tour programs contact the Finnish Tourist Board (tel. 212/885-9700; fax 212/885-9710; www.visitfinland.com).

Health & Insurance

Scandinavia is viewed as a "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots, most foodstuff is safe, and the water in cities and towns is potable. If you're concerned, order bottled water. It is easy to get a prescription filled in towns and cities, and nearly all places throughout Scandinavia contain hospitals with English-speaking doctors and well-trained medical staffs.

General Availability of Health Care -- If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Safety

Scandinavia has a relatively low crime rate with rare, but increasing, instances of violent crime. Most crimes involve the theft of personal property from cars or residences or in public areas. Pickpockets and purse snatchers often work in pairs or groups, with one distracting the victim while another grabs valuables. Often they operate in or near the major rail stations. Hotel breakfast rooms and lobbies attract professional, well-dressed thieves who blend in with guests and target purses and briefcases left unguarded by unsuspecting tourists and business travelers. Valuables should not be left unguarded in parked vehicles.

The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest Embassy or Consulate.

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com (tel. 0845/345-5708), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-3836; call collect. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 314/542-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

When to Go

Spring arrives in May, and the summers are short. A standing joke is that in Helsinki, summer lasts from Tuesday through Thursday. July is the warmest month, with temperatures averaging around 59°F (15°C). The coldest months are January and February, when the Finnish climate has been compared to that of New England. Snow arrives in southern Finland in December; in northern Finland in October. In Lapland, snow generally lasts until late April.

The Midnight Sun -- In Lapland the midnight sun offers the visitor an unforgettable experience.

The following places and dates are the best for seeing the midnight sun in Finland: Utsjoki, from May 17 to July 28; Ivalo, from May 23 to July 22; Sodankylä, from May 30 to July 5; on the Arctic Circle and Rovaniemi, from June 6 to July 7; Kuusamo, from June 13 to July 1; and Kemi, from June 19 to June 25. Helsinki has almost 20 hours of daylight during the summer months.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many Scandinavian hotels offer discounts for seniors. Often people over age 67 are entitled to 50% off the price of first- and second-class train tickets. Ask for the discount at the ticket office.

INTRAV (tel. 800/680-2858; www.tourvacationstogo.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler, not specifically seniors, with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private jet adventures, small boat cruises down jungle rivers, and trips to the Norwegian fjords.

Tips for Single Travelers

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only trips to places like Scandinavia. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 160 active-travel trips to 30 destinations worldwide, including Denmark.

Getting Around

The best way to get around Scandinavia is by private car on the excellent road network. In lieu of that, nearly all major towns are serviced by trains, except certain offshore islands, which can be reached only by ferryboat. If you're traveling extensively in Europe, special European passes are also available.

By Plane

SAS's "Visit Scandinavia" Fare -- The vast distances encourage air travel between Scandinavia's far-flung points. One of the most worthwhile promotions is SAS's Visit Scandinavia Pass. Available only to travelers who fly SAS across the Atlantic, it includes up to six coupons, each of which is valid for any SAS flight within or between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Each coupon costs $60, $80, and $100, depending on the route. The pass is especially valuable if you plan to travel to the far northern frontiers of Sweden or Norway; in that case, the savings over the price of a regular economy-class ticket can be substantial. For information on buying the pass, call SAS (tel. 800/221-2350; www.flysas.com).

Finnair (tel. 800/950-5000 in the U.S.), along with its domestic subsidiaries, Karair and Finnaviation, offers reasonably priced air transportation to virtually every settlement of any size in Finland, including some that are not accessible by any other means. Its routes cover the length and breadth of the country with at least 100 flights a day.

If you plan to travel extensively throughout Scandinavia or into the Baltic countries, then consider the Finnair Nordic Air Pass. It is available only from May 1 to September 30, and you must have a transatlantic plane ticket to be eligible. Call Finnair (tel. 800/950-5000) for more information.

By Train

Finland has its own Finnrailpass for use on the country's elaborate network of railroads. It's a "flexipass," entitling the holder to unlimited travel for any 3, 5, or 10 days within a 1-month period on all passenger trains of the VR Ltd. Finnish Railways. Prices are as follows: $301 for 3 days within 1 month in first class or $203 in second class; $401 for 5 days within 1 month in first class or $268 in second class; and $545 for 10 days within 1 month in first class or $364 in second class. Children pay 50% of the adult fare. Travelers over 65 and children 6 to 16 are charged half the full fare (it may be necessary to show proof of age); children 5 and under ride free.

Second-class trains in Finland are comparable to first-class trains in many other countries. The Finnrailpass should be purchased before you enter Finland; sometimes it's available at border stations at the frontier.

Because Finnish trains tend to be crowded, you should reserve a seat in advance -- in fact, seat reservations are obligatory on all express trains marked "IC" or "EP" on the timetable. The charge for seat reservations depends on the class and the length of the journey.

For more information, contact VR Ltd. Finnish Railways, P.O. Box 488, Vilhonkatu 13, FIN-00101 Helsinki (tel. 09/2319-2902; www.vr.fi). In the United States, contact RailEurope, Inc. (tel. 800/848-7245 or 800/4-EURAIL [438-7245]; www.raileurope.com).

By Bus

Finland has an extensive bus network operated by private companies. Information on bus travel is available at the Helsinki Bus Station, Kamppi terminal and Simonkentta. For more information you can call tel. 8200/4090 or else go to www.expressbus.com. If you call, you'll be charged 1.65€ ($2.60) for an operator's fee. Tickets can be purchased on board or at the bus station. Ask about a "Coach Holiday Ticket," allowing travel up to 1,000km (621 miles) during any 2-week period.

By Taxi in Finnish Cities

Service on most forms of public transportation ends around midnight throughout Finland, forcing night owls to drive themselves or to rely on the battalions of taksi (taxis) that line up at taxi stands in every Finnish town. In Helsinki, taxi stands are strategically situated throughout the downtown area, and it's usually less expensive to wait in line at a stand until one arrives. If you decide to call a taxi, they can be found under taksiasemat in the local directory. Note: You have to pay the charges that accumulate on the meter from the moment the driver first receives the call, not from when he or she picks you up.

By Car

Because of the far-flung scattering of Finland's attractions and the relative infrequency of its trains and long-distance buses, touring the country by car is the best way to savor its sights and charms, especially during the summer months. Bear in mind that driving conditions can be very bad during the long winter months. Snow tires are compulsory in winter. All car-rental companies supply winter tires during the appropriate seasons as part of their standard equipment.

Visitors bringing a motor vehicle into Finland must have a driver's license and a clearly visible sign attached to the vehicle showing its nation of origin. This rule is enforced at the border. Your home driver's license will be honored; an international driver's license is not required.

Rentals -- Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S. and Canada), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. and Canada; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com) are represented in Finland. Each company maintains 22 to 24 locations in Finland, usually in town centers or at airports, and sometimes in surprisingly obscure settings. For those who want to begin and end your tour of Finland in different cities, a drop-off within Finland can be arranged for a modest surcharge. A drop-off outside Finland, however -- if allowed at all -- is much more expensive.

Kemwel (tel. 800/678-0678; www.kemwel.com) is an auto-rental broker that accumulates into one database the availability of rental cars in markets across Europe, including Sweden. Originally established in 1908, and now operating in close conjunction with its sister company, Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), it offers convenient and prepaid access to thousands of cars, from a variety of reputable car-rental outfits throughout Europe.

Driving Rules -- Finns drive on the right side of the road, as in the U.S. and Europe. Speed limits are strictly enforced. It's illegal to drive a motor vehicle under the influence of alcohol (blood alcohol may not exceed 0.5%), and the penalties for doing so are severe. Be careful to watch for elk and reindeer crossing signs.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Prices are extremely high and subject to daily changes. Most stations take credit cards and are self-service at the pump. Stations are plentiful in the more congested south. However, if driving in the wilderness of the north, tank up before heading out for a long stretch.

Fly & Drive -- Government taxes, insurance coverage, and the high cost of gasoline (petrol) can make the use of a rented vehicle in Finland more expensive than you might have assumed. One way to reduce these costs is to arrange for your fly-drive trip through Finnair (tel. 800/950-5000). When you book your flight, the airline may be able to arrange a lower car-rental price through Budget, Hertz, or Avis than you could have gotten on your own.

By Ferry & Lake Steamer

Finland's nearly 188,000 lakes form Europe's largest inland waterway. Although railroads and highways now link most Finnish towns and villages, the romantic old steamers (and their modern counterparts) give both Finns and visitors a relaxing way to enjoy the inland archipelago areas of Finland in summer.

The excursion trips of most vessels last from just a couple of hours to a full day. In some cases you can travel from one lakeside town to another. There are even a couple of car ferries that cross some of the biggest lakes, significantly reducing the time required to drive around the lake. Unlike highway ferries, which are few in number today but can be used at no charge, the car ferries charge a fare for both cars and passengers. Information on all lake traffic schedules and fares is available from local tourist offices.

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations in Scandinavia range from the most basic, perhaps lacking private bathrooms, to the most deluxe. Outside of the big cities, you are likely to encounter first class in the top category instead of luxe accommodations. The one thing you'll not find is a truly cheap hotel. Even the most inexpensive hotels might be considered a bit pricey in some parts of the world. To compensate, many hotels, especially chain members, offer discounted rates on weekends when hotels lose their most reliable client -- the commercial traveler.

Our accommodation listings include service charges and taxes so you won't be shocked when the time comes to pay the bill and a lot of extras are added on, as is the situation in many European countries.

The most prevalent chain hotel in Scandinavia is Best Western (tel. 800/937-8376; www.bestwestern.com). It offers a Best Western Advance Card that allows you to take advantage of special "summer low" or "winter special promotion" rates, and grants such privileges as allowing one child 11 years old or under to stay free in a room shared with parents.

Alternative Accommodations

If you'd like to avoid a stay in a hotel, consider these other options:

Home Stays -- Friendship Force, 34 Peachtree St. NW, Suite 900, Atlanta, GA 30303 (tel. 404/522-9490; www.thefriendshipforce.org), is a nonprofit organization that encourages friendship among people worldwide. Dozens of branch offices throughout North America arrange visits, usually once a year. Because of group bookings, the airfare to the host country is usually less than the cost of individual APEX tickets. Each participant spends 2 weeks in the host country, the first as a guest in the home of a family and the second traveling in the host country.

Servas, 1125 16th St., Suite 201, Arcata, CA 95521 (tel. 707/825-1714; www.usservas.org), is an international nonprofit, nongovernmental, interfaith network of travelers and hosts whose goal is to help promote world peace, goodwill, and understanding. Servas hosts offer travelers hospitality for 2 days. Travelers pay an $85 annual fee and a $25 list deposit after filling out an application and being approved by an interviewer (interviewers are located across the U.S.). They then receive Servas directories listing the names and addresses of Servas hosts.

Home Exchanges -- One of the most exciting breakthroughs in modern tourism is the home exchange. Sometimes the family automobile is even included. Of course, you must be comfortable with the idea of having strangers in your home, and you must be content to spend your vacation in one place. One potential problem, though, is that you may not get a home in the area you request.

Intervac USA, 30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA 94920 (tel. 800/756-HOME [4663]; www.intervacus.com), is part of the largest worldwide exchange network. It contains over 10,000 homes in over 36 countries. Members contact each other directly. The cost is $85 plus postage, which includes the purchase of three of the company's catalogs, plus the inclusion of your own listing in whichever catalog you select. If you want to publish a photograph of your home, there is an additional charge of $15. Fees begin at $90, going up to $150.

The Invented City (tel. 415/846-7588; www.invented-city.com) publishes home-exchange listings three times a year. For the $50 membership fee, you can list your home with your own written descriptive summary.

Home Link, 2937 NW 9 St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33311 (tel. 800/638-3841 or 954/566-2687; www.homelink.org), will send you five directories a year for $130.