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If you want to see what the latest generation of Tuscan chefs can do in a kitchen, this place should top your list. The mood is modern and elegant, and never stuffy. Dishes are subtle and creative, and use traditional Tuscan ingredients in an original way. The menu changes daily, but expect the likes of spaghetti with extract of peppers, capers, and smoked ricotta or beef tartare marinated in beer with black truffle and roasted melon. If you can’t stretch the budget for a dinner here, book a table at lunch to taste simpler, cheaper (12€–18€) dishes such as cold salad of salt cod with Pratese vermouth and sweet potato, served in full-size or half-price “tapas” portions. Reservations are essential.