Vagalume

The style at this place is “tapas fiorentine”—there are no “courses” and no pasta, and you compile a dinner from a range of good-sized dishes in any order you please. Dishes are seasonal and change daily, but could include a soufflé of gorgonzola, hazelnuts, and zucchini; stewed cuttlefish; or a marinated mackerel salad with fennel and orange. To go with the modern menu, there’s modern, stripped-back decor, jazz and funk played in the background on an old record player, and an emphasis on beers—three on tap, plus a bottle list, which is strong on European styles. The wine list is short, but expertly chosen.