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From mid-2014, the only remaining overnight option on Floreana Island is the basic Hostal Wittmer, run by the descendants of German immigrant Margret Wittmer, author of "Floreana: A Woman's Pilgrimage to the Galápagos," her autobiographic description of the early settlement of the island that was so scandalous it managed to make world news in the 1930s. With the Wittmers now working with the Red Mangrove tour company, the premises are the only hotel left on the island. Rooms are basic and white, with one or two queen-sized beds, tiled floors, air conditioning, overhead ventilators, and a small writing desk. The second-story rooms have better views of the beach and seafront. Meals are served on a breezy outdoor veranda. The hotel lies directly facing the Playa Negra, a beach of dark sand and black lava stones. In the bay's calm waters, sea lions will often frolic with bathers.