Parks in Gallivare

Far more intriguing to us than the mines or winter skiing are the Gällivare parks -- we consider them some of the greatest national forestlands in all of Sweden. Various little unmarked roads (open in summer only) west of Gällivare will take you through the parks, but the best way to visit them is to ask the tourist office to pinpoint a tour route for you -- a wonderful service that takes your time and stamina into account. They also can give you up-to-date road conditions, supply maps, answer questions, and advise you on the best ways to experience the parks.

If you plan serious hiking, write (they don't accept calls) the National Council on Mountain Safety, Fjällsäkerhetsrådet at Naturvardsverket, S-171 85, Solna.

Muddus National Park

Muddus, south of Gällivare, is one of Sweden's most spectacular parks. Fortunately, it also is the park most often recommended to beginners or less experienced hikers. It's always best to check locally before starting out on any exploration deep into the wilderness, but some general guidelines are as follows: During May and early June, the ground at Muddus is most often boggy and wet because of rapid snowmelt. Conditions are best in July and early August, but keep in mind that summers are short and the weather conditions variable. It can be hot and sunny at Muddus one hour and raining the next. By mid-August snow could be falling.

Essentially, Muddus consists of marshland and forest (mostly pine) in the area between Gällivare and Jokkmokk. It's worth exploring some of its 48,000 hectares (118,611 acres), which house bears, moose, otters, wolverines, and many bird species. In summer, we've spotted grazing reindeer and even whooper swans. The Muddusjokk River flows through the park, providing a panoramic 42m (138-ft.) waterfall. Trails also cross the park; they're well marked and lead visitors to the most scenic spots.

If you have time only to sample the park's beauty and don't plan on an extensive in-depth penetration of the forest, you can explore the western edges of Muddus, which skirt Route 45 as it goes north from Gällivare. The best approach is to leave Route 45 at Liggadammen. Even if you don't have a car, several buses per day in summer run from Gällivare to Liggadammen. Once here, you'll see a trail leading to Skaite. You can follow this trail for a couple of hours, and once at Skaite, you can take an extensive hiking trail that stretches for 50km (31 miles). This well-marked trail has cabins along the way, plus a campsite by Muddus Falls, which is the most beautiful part of this national park.

Stora Sjöfället & Padjelanta

Stora Sjöfället, along with Padjelanta National Park, is Europe's largest national park. Padjelanta demands more mountain hiking experience than Stora Sjöfället. The forests here contain many of the same species as the alpine areas, but there also are blue hares, moose, foxes, ermines, squirrels, otters, martens, and lynx. The most common fish are trout, alpine char, grayling, burbot, and whitefish. Reindeer breeding is carried on throughout the year in both parks, with about 125 reindeer breeders owning a total of 25,000 animals. During spring, summer, and autumn, most Lapps live in these mountains at about seven settlements, which include Ritjem and Kutjaure. Lake Virihaure in Padjelanta National Park is often called Sweden's most beautiful lake. We're not quite sure about that, although it is truly lovely.

Both parks contain marked hiking trails, and overnight accommodations are available in cabins -- mainly Lapp huts and cottages. Good hiking equipment, including a tent, is advisable if you're planning a long hike through either park. Huts are just basic cabins with a roof and four walls -- you'll have to bring a sleeping bag. They generally have summer-only toilets. Cottages vary but may have beds (you provide your own sleeping bag) and cooking facilities. They also have toilets (but a shower is rare). Hikers usually just crash at huts, but cottages should be reserved. Call the Swedish Touring Club (tel. 08/463-21-00) before you go. You can fish in Padjelanta with a permit (contact any tourist office), but not in Stora Sjöfället.