Planning a trip to Geneva
Geneva's tourist office, the Office du Tourisme de Genève, is located at 18, rue du Mont-Blanc (tel. 022/909-70-00; www.geneve-tourisme.ch), and is open daily year-round from 9am to 6pm. The staff provides information about the city, and can also arrange hotel reservations both in Geneva and throughout Switzerland, and refer you to other establishments specializing in car and motorcycle rentals and excursion bookings. They can also give you details about audio-guided visits to the Old Town.
City Layout
Geneva is a perfect city to explore on foot. It's divided by Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and the Rhône River into two sections: the Right Bank and the Left Bank. In addition to taking our walking tour of the highlights, you may rent an audio-guided tour in English from the tourist office for 10F. This tour covers more than two dozen highlights in the Old Town, and comes complete with cassette, player, and map. Its estimated duration is 2 hours. A 50F deposit is collected prior to your receipt of a cassette player.
Rive Gauche (Left, or South Bank) -- This compact and colorful area is the oldest section of the city. Here you'll find Old Town, some major shopping streets, the famous Flower Clock, the university, and several important museums.
Grand-Rue is the well-preserved main street of Old Town. It's flanked by many houses dating from the 15th and 18th centuries. The street winds uphill from the ponts de l'Ile; at place Bel-Air it becomes rue de la Cité, then Grand-Rue, and finally rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville. (Rousseau was born in a simple house at no. 40, Grand-Rue.) Eventually it reaches place du Bourg-de-Four -- one of the most historic squares of Geneva. South of this street is promenade des Bastions, a greenbelt area overlooking the Arve River, with a monument to the Reformation. Directly to the west, in the northern corner of promenade des Bastions, is place Neuve, which is the finest square in Geneva.
From place Neuve, you can take rue de la Corraterie, which was once surrounded by the city wall, to the Rhône and the ponts de l'Ile. On this bridge is the Tour-de-l'Ile, what's left of the 13th-century bishops' castle.
On the shore of Lake Geneva is the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) with its Flower Clock and, farther out, the Parc La Grange and the nearby Parc des Eaux-Vives.
Rive Droite (Right, or North Bank) -- You can cross to the other side of the Rhône on any of several bridges, including pont du Mont-Blanc, pont de la Machine, pont des Bergues, and ponts de l'Ile. The Right Bank is home to Gare Cornavin, the major international organizations, and several attractive parks.
Place St-Gervais is in the St-Gervais district; this has been the area for jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century.
Along the northern shore of Lake Geneva is quai du Président-Wilson, named for the U.S. president who helped found the League of Nations.
The Right Bank is surrounded by parks, from the tree-shaded promenades along the Rhône to the Parc de la Perle du Lac, Parc Barton, and on the city outskirts, Parc Mon-Repos.
Finding an Address
In a system developed during the Middle Ages, all Swiss cities begin their street-numbering system with the lowest numbers closest to the old center of town. The numbers increase the farther out from Old Town you go. Even numbers are on one side of a street; odd numbers are on the other side.
Maps -- The tourist office presents visitors with a free detailed and easy-to-follow map of Geneva. That same map is available from most of the city's hotels as well.
Getting Around
Walking, of course, is the cheapest, most practical form of transportation in Geneva. It's also the most advantageous from a tourist's point of view. Tree-shaded promenades line the edges of the lake, and you can browse many chic shops walking at a moderate pace along streets that include rue du Rhône. Savor the measured tempo of life here that makes this city particularly alluring to the foreign visitor.
Nevertheless, if speed is the object, you may avail yourself of the public transportation system, which is reasonably priced and as dependable as a Swiss watch.
By Public Transportation
Most of Geneva's public tram and bus lines begin either at the very central place Cornavin in front of the main railroad station, or, to a lesser extent, on the opposite bank of the river, at the place du Bel Air. Local buses and trams operate daily from 5am to midnight, and you can purchase a ticket from a vending machine before you board. Instructions are also given in English. Transport Publics Genevois (tel. 0900/022-021; www.tpg.ch), next to the tourist office in Gare Cornavin, offers free maps of local bus routings. Trips that stay within zone 10, enveloping most of Geneva, cost 3F, and unlimited use of all zones costs 10F for 1 day.
Guests who have proof that they are booked into a hotel, B&B, or hostel are granted free rides on public transportation. Ask at your hotel for a public transportation ticket.
By Taxi
The meter on whatever cab you take in Geneva will automatically begin calculating your fare at 7F, and then add between 3F and 3.50F for every kilometer you travel, depending on the time of day or night. The fare from the airport to the center of town ranges from 30F to 40F. No tipping is required, but extra baggage may cost 1.50F. To call for a taxi, call tel. 022/331-41-33 or 022/320-20-20.
By Car
Driving is not recommended; parking is difficult and the many one-way streets make navigation complicated. However, should you wish to rent a car and tour Lake Geneva, you'll find many car-rental companies represented in the arrivals hall of the airport and in the center of the city. Major car-rental companies in Geneva include Avis, 44, rue de Lausanne (tel. 022/731-90-00, or at the airport 022/929-03-30; www.avis.com); Budget, at the airport (tel. 022/717-86-75; www.budget.com); Hertz, at the airport (tel. 022/717-80-80; www.hertz.com); and Europcar, 37, rue de Lausanne (tel. 022/909-69-90; www.europcar.com). If you absolutely insist on driving a car, and if your hotel doesn't offer parking facilities and valet parking, the best bet for parking within the city limits tends to be within any of the many underground parking garages, whose presence is indicated with large blue-and-white signs designated with a letter "P." Rates for underground parking average between 1.50F and 2F per hour.
By Bike
Touring the city by bicycle isn't particularly practical because of the steep cobblestone streets, speeding cars, and general congestion. However, you might want to consider renting a bike for touring the countryside around Geneva. The major rental outlet is at the baggage desk at Gare Cornavin (tel. 022/791-02-50), where city bikes cost 33F per day. Another major outlet, charging from 24F to 34F per day, depending on the degree of sophistication of the bicycle, is Genève Roule, 17, place Montbrillant (tel. 022/740-13-43; www.geneveroule.ch).
Neighborhoods in Brief
Rues Basses
Rues Basses (translated either as "low streets" or figuratively as "lower town") is found between Old Town and the south bank of the Rhône. It's the major commercial and shopping district of Geneva. Its major street is rue du Rhône, although rue de la Confédération and rue du Marché are also important arteries.
Old Town (Vieille Ville)
At an altitude of 398m (1,305 ft.), Old Town is the most history-rich section of Geneva. This is Left Bank Geneva, with its narrow streets, flower-bedecked fountains, and architectural blends of Gothic, Renaissance, and 18th-century features. The twin towers of the Cathedral of St. Pierre dominate Old Town, whose geographical and spiritual center is place du Bourg-de-Four.
The Promenades of Geneva
These streets almost constitute a "neighborhood" in themselves. This section of quays along both Lake Geneva and the Rhône is best experienced by walking. One of the most scenic walks is from the Parc des Eaux-Vives on the Left Bank to the Parc de Mon-Repos on the Right Bank. Along the way is a clear view of Geneva's most famous and visible monument, the Jet d'Eau. Set a few inches above the surface of the lake, this fountain spurts a plume of shimmering water that rises to heights, depending on the wind on the day it's being measured, of between 140m and 145m (459-476 ft.) tall. Except for a 2-week maintenance regime conducted every midwinter, Jet d'Eau operates year-round, except when winds blow hard down from the Alps, during which period it's shut off to avoid drenching the passersby on the nearby quais.
Carouge
Carouge, a suburb of Geneva, is a historic European town. It dates from the 18th century, when it was built by the king of Sardinia to rival Geneva. Architects from Turin supplied the Piedmontese charm. At the Congress of Vienna, in 1815, Carouge was annexed to the canton of Geneva. Carouge was once the playground of smugglers and gold washers who panned for the precious metal in the Arve. The Genevese themselves -- at least those who wanted to escape from the puritanical city -- came here in search of decadence.
Switzerland considers Carouge a national landmark because of its architecture. It can be reached from Geneva by tram no. 12 or 13 from the center. Begin your exploration in the Market Square, with its old fountain, plane trees, and markets. A Roman stone was imbedded in the Church of the Holy Cross. As you walk around, you'll pass the court of the count of Veyrier's palace, dating from 1783; place du Temple, with a fountain from 1857; and a Louis XVI carved door at 18, rue St-Victor.
Getting There
By Plane
The Geneva-Cointrin Airport (tel. 022/717-71-11; www.gva.ch), although busy, is quite compact and easily negotiated. Swiss International Air Lines (tel. 877/359-7947 from the U.S.; www.swiss.com) serves Geneva more frequently than any other airline and offers the best local connections, connecting Geneva with Lugano, Zurich, and Bern, plus flying in from several European capitals. Other international airlines flying into Geneva include Air France (tel. 800/237-2747 in the U.S.; www.airfrance.com), with 10 flights daily from Paris; and British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297; www.britishairways.com), with 8 daily flights from London.
To get into the center of Geneva, there's a train station linked to the air terminal with trains leaving about every 8 to 20 minutes from 5:25am to 12:25am for the 7-minute trip; the one-way fare is 13F in first class and 10F in second class. A taxi into town will cost between 30F and 40F, or you can take bus no. 10 for 12F.
By Train
Geneva's CFF (Chemins de Fer Fédéraux) train station in the town center is Gare Cornavin, place Cornavin (tel. 0900/300-300 or www.sbb.ch for ticket information). A small tourist office branch is at the train station.
Note: When the Lausanne-Geneva railroad line was extended to Cointrin Airport, a second "main" railroad station was built here with both long-distance and intercity trains. To avoid having to make the trip back to the center from the airport, be sure you get off the train at the Cornavin station.
By Car
From Lausanne, head southwest on N1 to the very end of southwestern Switzerland.
By Lake Steamer
There are frequent daily arrivals by Swiss lake steamer year-round from Montreux, Vevey, and Lausanne (you can use your Eurailpass for the trip). If you're staying in the Left Bank (Old Town), get off at the Jardin Anglais stop in Geneva; Mont Blanc and Pâquis are the two Right Bank stops. For more information, call tel. 0848/811-848 or visit www.cgn.ch.
Fast Facts
Babysitters -- A list of agencies is available at the tourist office. Most of the expensive hotels will also secure an English-speaking babysitter for you, or you can call Chaperon Rouge (tel. 022/304-04-82), an organization associated with the Red Cross responsible for teaching young girls about child-care rituals. Some students make themselves available for babysitting in either a private home or a hotel room; the service is particularly pertinent for sick children.
Bookstore -- One of the largest in Geneva is the well-stocked Payot, 5, rue Chantepoulet (tel. 022/731-89-50; www.payot.ch), with a good selection of books in French, German, and English.
Business Hours -- Most banks are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm (until 5:30pm Wed). Most offices are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm, although this can vary. It's always best to call first.
Consulates -- If you lose your passport or have other business with your home government, go to your nation's consulate: United States, 7, rue Versonnex (tel. 022/840-51-60); Australia, 2, chemin des Fins (tel. 022/799-91-00); Canada, 5, av. de L'Ariana (tel. 022/919-92-00); New Zealand, 2, chemin des Fins (tel. 022/929-03-50); the United Kingdom, 58, av. Louis Casaï, Cointrin (tel. 022/918-24-00).
Currency Exchange -- In a city devoted to banking and the exchange of international currencies, you'll find dozens of places to exchange money in Geneva. Three of the most visible outlets, however, are run by UBS-SA, one of the country's largest banking conglomerates. You'll find a branch at the Gare Cornavin, 12, place Cornavin (tel. 022/375-33-47), that's open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm; a branch at the Cointrin Airport (tel. 022/306-14-88) that's open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 4:30pm; and a downtown branch at 75, rue du Rhône (tel. 022/375-75-75) that's open Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. The branches in the airport and in the railway station also house "money-automats" -- you receive an equivalent amount of Swiss francs for every $20, $50, or $100 bill you insert into the machine.
Dentist -- English-speaking dentists are available at one of the cliniques dentaires at 5, chemin de Malombré (tel. 022/346-64-44; www.malodent.ch), open daily from 8am to 7pm.
Doctor -- If you become ill and want to consult a doctor, including one who will travel to your hotel, call tel. 022/322-20-20; or arrange an appointment with an English-speaking doctor at the Hôpital Cantonal, 22, rue Micheli-du-Crest (tel. 022/372-33-11).
Drugstores -- Each night a different set of four drugstores stays open either till 9 or 11pm. Call tel. 144 or 111 to find out which drugstore will be open. One of the world's biggest drugstores, Pharmacie Principale, in Confédération-Centre, 8, rue de la Confédération (tel. 022/318-66-60), sells everything from medicine to clothing, perfumes, optical equipment, cameras, and photo supplies. It's open daily 9am to 9pm.
Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial tel. 117 for the police, tel. 144 for an ambulance, or tel. 118 to report a fire.
Eyeglasses -- You can go to Visi-Lab in the Confédération-Centre, 8, rue de la Confédération (tel. 022/318-66-80).
Hospitals -- A prime choice for medical aid is the Geneva University Hospital, 24, rue Micheli-du-Crest (tel. 022/372-33-11; www.hug-ge.ch). Most physicians speak English and German.
Lost Property -- Go to the Service Cantonal des Objets Trouvés, 5, rue des Glacis-de-Rive (tel. 022/546-09-00), open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to 4pm.
Luggage Storage/Lockers -- Luggage can be stored and lockers rented at the main railroad station, Gare Cornavin, place Cornavin (tel. 0900/022-021).
Newspapers & Magazines -- Newspapers in Geneva are printed in French, but the latest copies of the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, the New York Times, and the Washington Post are available at most newsstands and in large hotel newsstand kiosks. And if you're planning on moving to Geneva, or spending more than a month here, consider acquiring a copy of the Guide to English-Speaking Geneva, which is available free at the American Library .
Police -- In an emergency, call tel. 117. For nonemergency matters, call tel. 022/327-41-11.
Post Office -- There's a limited Office de Poste at Gare Cornavin, 16, rue des Gares (tel. 0848/888-888), open Monday to Friday from 6am to 10:45pm, Saturday from 6am to 8pm, and Sunday from noon to 8pm. A better bet is the city's main post office, Bureau de Poste Montbrillant, rue des Gares (tel. 022/739-23-58), which offers a full range of telephone, telegraph, and mail-related services Monday to Friday from 8am to 10:45pm, Saturday 8am to 10pm, and Sunday noon to 8pm.
Safety -- Geneva is one of the safest cities in the world, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't take the usual precautions when traveling anywhere. Protect your valuables. Car thefts have been on the rise. High-class prostitutes and confidence swindlers proliferate in Geneva to prey on the well-heeled.
Taxes -- There is no special city tax, other than the 7.6% value-added tax (VAT) attached to most goods and services throughout Switzerland.
Telegrams, Telex & Fax -- Virtually every post office in Geneva maintains a handful of tele-cabines where you can pay cash for a phone call to anywhere in the world, but the densest concentration of these phones lies within the main railway station, Gare Cornavin, place Cornavin (it's open 24 hr. a day). Within less than a block, you'll find additional phones in the Office de Poste Montbrillant, 16, rue des Gares (tel. 0848/888-888), which is open Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm and Sunday noon to 8pm. Either site can send telegrams or faxes for you.
Tipping -- Most restaurants and hotels, even taxis, add a service charge of between 10% and 15% to your bill, so, strictly speaking, no further tipping is necessary. Tipping rituals have evolved recently, within Geneva to reflect practices within neighboring France, so today, many diners leave a few coins -- we established guidelines of around 2F extra for each member of a dining party, merely as a sign of respect for your waitstaff, but only if the service was adequate.
Toilets -- You'll find public facilities at all rail and air terminals and on main squares. Otherwise, you can patronize those in cafes and other commercial establishments such as department stores.
Transit Information -- For train information, call tel. 0900/300-300 (www.sbb.ch) from anywhere in Switzerland. Contact the airport at tel. 022/717-71-11. For bus information Monday to Friday from 8am to 9pm, dial tel. 0900/022-021; for information on Saturday and Sunday, call tel. 022/308-34-34.
