Planning a trip to Germany

Tips on Accommodations

In Germany’s large cities, like Berlin and Munich, booking your hotel room ahead is essential, especially if you’re going to be in Munich during Oktoberfest or any major city during a large trade fair or special event.

Booking ahead isn’t as important in the rest of Germany, but it’s still a good idea, particularly when you’re going to be spending a Friday or Saturday night in places that are popular getaways for Germans, such as Dresden, the Black Forest, the Rhine and Mosel valleys, and the Bodensee (Lake Constance).

Tourist information centers, located in or near the main train stations in all German cities and towns, can help you find a room. Most tourist information centers also have a free directory of local accommodations. All have high standards, controlled by hotel associations, regional tourist associations, and local tourist boards.

But you shouldn’t only be thinking about accommodations in terms of hotels. Short-term apartment and house rentals can be economical and often provide travelers with more space and a more authentic travel experience. In some cases you’ll rent through an agency and in others directly from the owner of the property, who may or may not be near at hand to offer assistance during your stay. Search your options at Airbnb, HomeAway, and Vrbo.

Staying Safe

Overall, the security risk to travelers in Germany is low. However, Germany experiences a number of demonstrations every year on a variety of political and economic themes. These demonstrations have a tendency to spread. Prior police approval is required for public demonstrations in Germany, and police oversight is routinely provided to ensure adequate security for participants and passersby. Nonetheless, situations may develop that could pose a threat to public safety. All foreign visitors are cautioned to avoid the area around protests and demonstrations and to check local media for updates on the situation.

Violent crime is rare in Germany, but it can occur, especially in larger cities or high-risk areas such as train stations. Most incidents of street crime consist of theft of unattended items and pickpocketing. You should take the same precautions you would in any city.

Report the loss or theft of your passport immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while in Germany, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff, for example, can assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you understand the local criminal-justice process and find an attorney if needed.

Health & Insurance

Health

Germany should not pose any major health hazards. The heavy cuisine may give some travelers mild diarrhea, so take along some antidiarrhea medicine and moderate your eating habits. The water is safe to drink throughout Germany; however, don't drink from mountain streams, no matter how clear and pure the water looks.

German medical facilities are among the best in the world. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag, which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Insurance

For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance. If you require additional medical insurance, try Travel Assistance International.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Trip-Cancellation Insurance: Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. Some companies offer expanded hurricane coverage and "any-reason" cancellation coverage—which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Travel Guard International, Travel Insured International, and Travelex Insurance Services.

Getting Around

By Plane

From Frankfurt and other German gateways, most Lufthansa destinations in Germany can be reached in an average of 50 minutes. All German cities with commercial airports have an airport shuttle service, offering reduced fares and fast connections between the city center and the airport.

By Train

You’ll find that the trains of German Rail (DB Rail) deserve their good reputation for comfort, cleanliness, and punctuality. All are modern and fast, and all cars are nonsmoking. A snack bar or a dining car, serving German and international cuisine as well as good wine and beer, can usually be found on all trains except locals. Accompanying baggage can be checked for a nominal fee; suitcases, baby carriages, skis, bicycles, and steamer trunks are permitted as baggage.

Germany’s high-speed rail network, known as InterCity Express (ICE), is among the fastest in Europe—their trains reach speeds of 280kmph (174 mph), making transits north to south and across the country in half a day or less. ICE trains have adjustable cushioned seats and individual reading lights, and are equipped with Wi-Fi (for a fee). Bars, lounges, and dining rooms are available, too. About 20,000 slightly slower InterCity (IC) passenger trains offer express service between most large and medium-size German cities. A network of EuroCity (EC) trains connecting Germany with 13 other countries offers the same high standards of service as those of IC.

InterCity Night (ICN) trains operate between Berlin and Bonn, Berlin and Munich, Hamburg and Frankfurt, and other German cities. The ICN offers first and tourist class. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations.

You can get complete details about German Rail and the many plans it offers, as well as information about Eurail passes, at Eurail.

German Rail Tourist Passes: Eurail and German Rail Passes offer several options beginning with 3 days and going up to 3 months. The German Rail Twinpass, for two adults (they do not have to be married and can be of the same sex) traveling together in first or second class represents a 50% savings over single prices. A German Rail Youth Pass is valid only for persons younger than 26 years of age and is available only in second class; German Rail Passes for kids ages 6 to 11 are half the adult price. The passes also entitle the bearer to additional benefits, such as free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus, including destinations not serviced by trains, or excursions along particularly scenic highways such as the Romantic Road. The pass also includes travel on KD German Line steamers (day trips only) along the Rhine, Main, and Mosel.

Where to Buy Rail Passes: Order Eurail and German Rail Passes from Eurail.

By Car

Competition in the European car-rental industry is fierce, so make sure you comparison shop. Players include Avis, Budget, Hertz, Kemwel Drive Group, and Auto Europe. You can often rent a car in one German city and return it to another for no additional charge.

There are some advantages to prepaying rentals in your native currency before leaving home. You get an easy-to-understand net price, the rental process is more streamlined, and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. Remember, however, that if you opt to prepay and your plans change, you’ll have to go through some rather complicated paperwork for changing or canceling a prepaid contract.

Driving Rules: In Germany, you drive on the right side of the road. Both front- and back-seat passengers must wear safety belts. Children 5 and younger cannot ride in the front seat.

Easy-to-understand international road signs are posted, but travelers should remember that road signs are in kilometers, not miles. In congested areas, the speed limit is about 50kmph (about 30 mph). On all other roads except the autobahns, the speed limit is 100kmph (about 60 mph).

In theory, there is no speed limit on the autobahns (in the left, fast lane), but many drivers going too fast report that they have been stopped by the police and fined, and the government recommends a speed limit of 130kmph (81 mph). German motorists generally flash their lights if they want you to move over so they can pass. You must use low-beam headlights at night and during fog, heavy rain, and snowfalls, and you must stop for pedestrians in crosswalks; they have the right of way.

Note: Drinking while driving is a very serious offense in Germany. Be sure to keep any alcoholic beverages in the trunk or other storage area.

Breakdowns/Assistance: The major automobile club in Germany is Automobilclub von Deutschland (AvD).

Driver’s Licenses: American drivers, and those from E.U. countries, need only a domestic license to drive. However, in Germany and throughout the rest of Europe, you must also have an international insurance certificate, known as a carte verte (green card). Any car-rental agency will automatically provide one of these as a standard part of the rental contract, but it’s a good idea to double-check all documents at the time of rental, just to be sure that you can identify the card if asked by border patrol or the police.

Parking: Parking in the center of most big towns is difficult, expensive, and often impossible. Look for parking lots and parking garages outside the center, identified by a large P; in some larger cities, signs on the way into town indicate how much space is available in various lots or parking garages. Most parking lots use an automated ticket system. You insert coins or credit cards to purchase time.

By Bus

An excellent, efficient bus network services Germany. Many buses are operated by Bahnbus (www.bahnbus.com), which is owned by the railway. These are integrated to complement the rail service. Bus service in Germany is particularly convenient during slow periods of rail service, normally around midday and on Saturday and Sunday. German post offices often operate local bus services (contact local post offices for schedules and prices).

By Boat

The mighty Rhine is Germany’s most traveled waterway. Cruise ships also run on the Main River between Mainz and Frankfurt; on the Danube from Nürnberg to Linz (Austria), going on to Vienna and Budapest; and on the Mosel between Cochem and Trier. A good place to begin investigating the many options, with lists of operators, cruise line reviews, and loads of other information, is Cruise Critic. Canal barge cruises are a way to see a rarely viewed part of Germany. Many German itineraries focus on Berlin and the Mecklenburg lakes, and the "Mosel Cruise," from Trier to Koblenz. A good overview of trips, as well as cruise packages, are available from European Barging.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior-discount programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people 60 and over qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join.

A recommended publication offering travel resources and discounts for seniors is Travel 50 & Beyond magazine.

Special-Interest Vacations

Specialty Escorted Tours: Brendan Worldwide Vacations offers escorted tours of German Christmas markets, as does Maupintour. Reformation Tours (800/303-5534, www.reformationtours.com) leads excursions to cathedrals, monasteries, and sites associated with Martin Luther. Alpenventures World War II Tours (888/991-6718; www.worldwar2tours) visits naval bases and other sites associated with the war. You can taste beer in Munich, Bamberg, and other cities with BeerTrips.com (406/531-9109, www.beertrips.com) and tour the Rhine and Mosel vineyards with Wine Tours of the World (888/635-8007; www.winetoursoftheworld.com).

Learning Vacations: Road Scholar offers travelers 55 and older university-based courses on art, history, culture, and other subjects that provide insight into Germany. Fees for the programs, usually two weeks long, include airfare, accommodations, meals, tuition, tips, and insurance. Good sources for language schools in Germany are Languages Abroad, Languages Directory, and GoAbroad.com.

Biking: Germany is excellent biking terrain. Classic Adventures leads bike tours along the Romantic Road and other scenic routes. 

Walking & Hiking: It's estimated that Germany has more than 80,000 marked hiking and mountain-walking tracks. The Deutschen Wanderverband offers details about trails, shelters, huts, and addresses of hiking associations in various regions. The Deutscher Alpenverein owns and operates huts in and around the Alps that are open to all mountaineers; it also maintains a network of Alpine trails. The best Alpine hiking is in the Bavarian Alps, especially the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer, on the southern fringe of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The tourist office supplies hiking maps and details.

Fast Facts

ATMs: In German cities, you can easily find 24-hour ATMs in airports, train stations, and outside banks. Cirrus and Plus are the most popular networks. Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that the fee can be higher for international transactions. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. Despite the fees, ATM withdrawals are usually less costly than transactions made at other commercial exchanges.

Disabled Travelers: Germany is relatively hospitable for travelers with disabilities. Most large cities and many smaller ones provide elevator access to subways, ramps, and lifts on buses and streetcars and at museums and other public facilities, and wheelchair-accessible taxis. The local tourist offices can issue permits for drivers to allow them access to parking areas for people with disabilities. Many hotels, especially newer ones, are equipped to meet the needs of those with disabilities, and some have specially equipped rooms for the disabled. Many restaurants, including many of the more expensive ones, are wheelchair accessible. Keep in mind, though, that throughout the country some historic sights may not be properly equipped for travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab, Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH), and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB).

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are FlyingWheels Travel (tel. 888/451-5006 or 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com). The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

Doctors: Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics in Germany at the International Society of Travel Medicine.

Electricity: In most places, the electricity is 230 volts AC. Much of your electronic gear (including laptops) have built-in converters but you will need a transformer for any device without one. Be sure to pack an adapter (a plug that fits the German socket). Many hotels will supply these.

Emergencies: Throughout Germany the emergency number for police is tel. 110; for fire or to call an ambulance, dial tel. 112.

Family Travel: If you’re traveling with children, always check to see whether the attraction offers a money-saving family ticket, which considerably reduces the admission price for a group of two adults and two or more children. The same is true for public transportation: Low-priced family or group tickets usually are available.

Gay & Lesbian Travelers: Germany is one of the most progressive countries in the world when it comes to LGBTQ pride, culture, and tourism. Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, Frankfurt, and Cologne all have large LGBTQ communities, but queer life flourishes outside the big cities, too. A network of LGBTQ-friendly restaurants, cafes, stores, bars, dance clubs, and community centers exists throughout the country, in small towns and large.

Every summer, parades and special events celebrate Pride. In July, Berlin holds its annual Gay & Lesbian City Festival and Christopher Street Day and Parade. Munich, Hamburg, Cologne, and Frankfurt all host summertime celebrations as well.

Taxes: As a member of the European Union, Germany imposes a tax on most goods and services known as a value-added tax (VAT) or, in German, Mehrwertsteuer. VAT is included in the prices of restaurants and hotels. Stores that display a tax-free sticker will issue you a Tax-Free Shopping Check at the time of purchase. When leaving the country, have your check stamped by the German Customs Service as your proof of legal export. You can then get a cash refund at one of the Tax-Free Shopping Service offices in the major airports and many train stations and some of the bigger ferry terminals. There is no airport departure tax.

Telephones: The country code for Germany is 49. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 49, then the city code, then the regular phone number.

Tipping: If a restaurant bill says Bedienung, that means a service charge has already been added, so just round up to the nearest euro. If not, add 10% to 15%. Bellhops get 1€ per bag, as does the doorperson at your hotel, restaurant, or nightclub. Room-cleaning staffs get small tips in Germany, as do concierges who perform some special favors.

Toilets: Use the word Toilette (pronounced twah-leh-tah). Women’s toilets are usually marked with an f for Frauen, and men’s toilets with an h for Herren.

Visitor Information: All cities and nearly all larger towns in Germany have tourist offices. The German National Tourist Board covers the whole country.

Money

The euro (€) is the single European currency of Germany and other participating countries. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

The major cities of Germany are some of the world's most expensive. So, if you want to see the country without breaking the bank, you may want to cut short your time in Frankfurt, Munich, or Berlin and concentrate on regional capitals such as Freiburg in the Black Forest, where you can cut your travel cost by anywhere from 20% to 40%. You may also want to consider a rail pass.

Although prices in Germany are high, you generally get good value for your money. The inflation rate has remained low. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants generally offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time, and most service personnel treat you with respect.

Many people come to Germany just for winter sports. The most expensive resorts are places like Garmisch-Partenkirchen. However, if you avoid the chic places, you can enjoy winter fun at a moderate cost. Some of the winter spots in the Bavarian Alps that haven't been overrun by the beautiful people give you great value for your money. And prices in a village next to a resort are often 30% lower than at the resort itself.

In Germany, many prices for children (generally defined as ages 6-17) are considerably lower than for adults. And fees for children 5 and younger are often waived entirely.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs: The easiest way to get cash away from home is from an ATM, sometimes referred to as a Geldautomat. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards: Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Remember that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

In Germany, American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa are commonly accepted, with the latter two cards predominating.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for Germany is 49. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 49, then the city code, then the regular phone number.

Regions in Brief

Germany lies in the heart of Europe, bordered by Switzerland and Austria to the south; France, Luxembourg, Belgium, and the Netherlands to the west; Denmark to the north; and Poland and the Czech Republic to the east. The country encompasses 356,216 sq. km (137,535 sq. miles).

Berlin & Potsdam

Berlin is Germany's capital and cultural center. It beckons visitors with glorious museums, wonderful cultural offerings, and cutting-edge nightlife. Southwest of Berlin is Potsdam, with its famous palace and elegant gardens and parks, set in an idyllic landscape along the Havel River.

Thuringia

Thuringia, with its untouched villages, churches, and medieval fortress ruins, has long been popular with tourists. Here you can still see the small towns once known to Luther, Bach, and Wagner. The region's densely forested mountains are prime hiking country. The cultural center, with many attractions, is the city of Weimar, once the bastion of such greats as Walter Gropius, Mies van der Rohe, Liszt, Goethe, and Schiller.

Saxony: Leipzig & Dresden

Known for its annual trade fair that draws participants from around the world, Leipzig is the most important industrial center in the east after Berlin. But this city, once the home of Bach, is also a cultural treasure, with museums, old churches, and Thomanerchor (the famous boys' choir). For those who find Berlin too overwhelming, Leipzig is an excellent alternative.

However, if it's a choice between Leipzig and Dresden, make it Dresden, still one of the most beautiful cities in Germany, though 80% of its center was destroyed in an infamous 1945 Allied air raid. Today, Dresden is bouncing back fast, particularly in light of the reopening of the Frauenkirche in 2005.

Franconia & the German Danube

Some of Germany's greatest medieval and Renaissance treasures came from this region, which gave the world such artists as Albrecht Dürer and Lucas Cranach the Elder. Come here to visit some of the most beautiful and historical towns in Germany, notably Regensburg, Bamberg, Nürnberg, and Bayreuth, where Wagner built his theater and created Festspiele, the famous opera festival. Though tourists often pass it by, Regensburg, about 100km (60 miles) southeast of Nürnberg, is well worth a visit. It suffered no major bombings in World War II and so remains one of the best-preserved cities in Germany. Nürnberg, although it holds much interest today with its many preserved art treasures, was heavily bombed and had to be virtually rebuilt. The Danube, which flows through this region, isn't blue and doesn't have the allure, dramatic scenery, or castles of the Rhine, but it's worth exploring for its own quiet charm.

The Romantic Road

One of the most scenically beautiful (but overrun) attractions in Germany, the Romantische Strasse winds south from Würzburg to the little town of Füssen at the foot of the Bavarian Alps. Don't miss Würzburg, Germany's baroque city on the banks of the Main River. This glorious old city is overlooked by a fortified castle. Along the way, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of the most splendidly preserved medieval towns in Europe. The road comes to an end at "Mad" King Ludwig's most fantastic creation: Neuschwanstein Castle. The Romantic Road, originally a bit of PR hype to promote the area, was launched in 1950. It was such a success that the road is now clogged with traffic in summer, so the trip is best made in spring or autumn, before the tour buses arrive. (For an admittedly less scenic, but still charming, "romantic road," try the Fairy-Tale Road in Lower Saxony and North Hesse.) The region of the Romantic Road is known for its folk traditions, old-world charm, and unspoiled medieval towns still surrounded by their original walls. Despite its drawbacks, the road remains one of the most beautiful and interesting trails in Europe.

Munich & the Bavarian Alps

Rebuilt from the rubble of World War II, Munich is one of the most visited cities of Europe and probably the best place in Germany for old-fashioned fun. It should be included even on the briefest of itineraries. As chic and cosmopolitan as Frankfurt or Berlin, Munich is also kitschy in the best sense of Bavarian tradition. A night at the Hofbräuhaus or Augustiner Bierstuben with its liter mugs and oom-pah bands, will get you into the spirit of Munich life. After strolling through the Englischer Garten and having a glass of Bavarian wine in Schwabing (the legendary artists' district), you can tackle Munich's vast array of museums and palaces. Save time for the Deutsches Museum, one of the largest technological museums in the world. Munich also lies at the gateway to the Bavarian Alps. Shimmering Alpine lakes, half-timbered houses frescoed with paintings, and picture-postcard towns like Mittenwald and Oberammergau are all here, plus hiking, nature, wildlife, and Alpine-ski trails in winter.

Lake Constance (Bodensee)

The 260km (160-mile) coastline of the Bodensee is shared with Austria and Switzerland, but Germany got the best part, the lake's beautiful northern rim. A boat trip on the Bodensee, while not comparable to a Rhine cruise, is a major attraction. The tour takes in castles and towns built on islands near the shoreline. The best place to be based is Lindau, at the southeastern part, near the Austrian border. Reached by a causeway, this island town has the most luxuriant flowers and shrubs of any resort along the lake. But Konstanz, the largest city on the lake, also merits a visit because it's one of the best-preserved major medieval cities in Germany.

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald)

This dense fir forest, filled with beauty, charm, and myth, actually receives more sunshine than most other forests in Germany. The major center of the region is Freiburg, but the most visited city is the elegant Baden-Baden resort. Black Forest cake and smoked ham may be reason enough to visit the area, but other draws include casino gambling, great spas, hiking, bicycling, and cross-country skiing. Freiburg im Breisgau remains one of the most beautiful and historic towns in Germany and makes the best center for exploring the region. If you want a Black Forest cuckoo clock -- just as good as those sold in Switzerland -- head for Triberg.

Heidelberg & the Neckar Valley

Except for the Bavarian Alps, there is no more tranquil and scenic part of Germany than the Neckar Valley. The area's Burgenstrasse (Castle Road) has more castles than any comparable stretch along the mighty Rhine, and the Neckar River Valley is just as romantically charming as the more overrun Romantic Road. Allow time to take detours into hidden side valleys to see sleepy little towns, most often with a protective castle hovering over them. Heidelberg, the apotheosis of romantic Germany, needs no selling. This famous medieval university town, with its historic castle, perfectly captures the spirit of south Germany and has attracted poets and composers over the decades. Goethe and hard-to-impress Mark Twain both fell in love here—Goethe with a woman of striking beauty, and the more cynical Twain with Heidelberg itself. Unfortunately, Heidelberg suffers from overcrowding, especially in July and August, when tourists descend by the bus load.

Stuttgart & Tübingen

The capital of the state of Baden-Württemberg, Stuttgart is an industrial giant, headquarters of both Mercedes and Porsche. It's also a city of world-class museums and home to the acclaimed Stuttgart Ballet and Stuttgart State Opera. The town's setting, surrounded by green hills with vineyards and orchards, is attractive, but Stuttgart isn't a serious contender for visitors when compared to Berlin or Munich. If you can give Stuttgart a day, fine. If not, head at once to nearby Tübingen, the ancient university city on the upper Neckar that has been compared favorably to Heidelberg. It doesn't have Heidelberg's grandeur (or its hordes of visitors), but we prefer its youthful air, its tranquillity, and the quiet beauty of its half-timbered houses and alleyways. Don't worry about rushing around to see a lot of attractions—just soak up the old-time atmosphere.

Frankfurt

Frankfurt is vibrant, dynamic, and flashy, earning it the dubious distinction of the most Americanized city in Germany, maybe in Europe. Come here for the glitz and excitement of a major world player on the financial scene and its thriving, modern, and international feeling, not for Romantic Road architecture. Our recommendation is to treat it as a center worthy of at least 2 days of your time (it has any number of attractions), rather than as a transit hub. For many visitors, Frankfurt is their introduction to Germany, in the way that New York is the entry to America for thousands. Like New York, Frankfurt is hardly typical of the country in which it sits, but that doesn't mean you can't have a good time here. It's very civilized and filled with artistic treasures -- in fact, the metropolis spends more per year on the arts than any other city in Europe. When not attending the ballet, a Frankfurter may be found slugging down a few jugs of apple wine in the open-air taverns of Sachsenhausen on the city's Left Bank.

The Rhineland

After the Rhine's beginnings, in the mountains of Switzerland, as a narrow stream, this mighty river of legend flows for some 1,370km (850 miles) through one of the most picturesque and industrialized regions of Europe. For 2,000 years, it has been a major trade route. Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, and Koblenz all lie on its banks. For most visitors, the number-one attraction is a romantic cruise down the Rhine, through gorges and past ancient castles, vineyards, and the fabled Lorelei. The most panoramic stretch is between Rüdesheim and Koblenz. Start your Rhine cruise at Rüdesheim, Germany's favorite wine village, about 72km (45 miles) west of Frankfurt. If you have time for only one Rhineland city, make it Cologne rather than the more commercialized Düsseldorf. Cologne is dominated by its famous cathedral, the largest in Germany, but this ancient city is also filled with dozens of other attractions, including restored Romanesque churches, striking Roman ruins, and the best modern-art galleries in the country.

The Mosel Valley

Known as La Moselle in nearby France, the Mosel River weaves a snakelike path through the mountains west of the Rhineland. The Mosel doesn't have the Rhine's dramatic scenery, but we somehow prefer it, with its vineyards, castles, and fortresses that attract far fewer visitors. The swift-moving Rhine is filled with commercial traffic, but the Mosel is slow-moving, tranquil, and inviting, dotted with sleepy wine towns where you can sample some of the world's greatest vintages. Trains rumble all night along the Rhine, but not on the Mosel. (The inevitable tour buses do get through, however.) The best time to visit is during the annual fall grape harvest, centering in Cochem or Bernkastel-Kues. We've saved the best of this area for last: Near the Luxembourg border lies Trier, one of Europe's most fascinating antiques and the oldest city in Germany; it existed 1,300 years before Rome. Trier is a virtual theme park of Roman culture and architecture.

Lower Saxony & North Hesse: The Fairy-Tale Road

Hansel and Gretel, Rumpelstiltskin, the Pied Piper, and even Cinderella list their addresses as "the Fairy-Tale Road." Frankly, the Fairy-Tale Road isn't as architecturally splendid as the Romantic Road, but it's also not as crowded, and it does have a wealth of treasures for visitors interested in German lore and legend or lovers of the tales of the Brothers Grimm, who lived and worked here. The road begins at Hanau, just east of Frankfurt, and stretches for 600km (370 miles) north, coming to an end in Bremen. The trail passes through colorful towns with half-timbered buildings and past plenty of castles. Naturally, it's haunted by witches, goblins, and memories of the Pied Piper of Hameln.

Hamburg

The port city of Hamburg is exhilarating. The Germans often go to Frankfurt "for the banking," but to Hamburg "to have a good time." This Hanseatic city along the Elbe River has been beautifully rebuilt after the devastation caused by bombers in World War II, especially the night of July 28, 1943. A city of lakes, parks, and tree-lined canals, it is more famous for the tall tales of its red-light district. But these steamy after-dark diversions are only a small part of what Hamburg is. Restored architectural masterpieces and historic churches give this industrial city prestige and allure. The city is also concerned with its environment, historical preservation, and art and intellectual pursuits. If you can, spend at least 2 days here.

Schleswig-Holstein

This northwestern corridor of Germany, sandwiched between the North Sea and the Baltic, evokes bucolic Denmark, to which it was linked before Bismarck's defeat of that Scandinavian country in 1867.

Germany's northernmost province is one of our favorites because of its offshore vacation islands and the chance it offers to escape from the industrialization of northern Germany into acres upon acres of rolling green fields used for agriculture. Large areas are still forested, and there is enough moorland to delight a native of Yorkshire, England. Most interesting historically is the ancient merchant city of Lübeck, former capital of the Hanseatic League and the hometown of Thomas Mann, the great German writer. Although heavily restored after World War II, Lübeck is loaded with attractions, and its Altstadt (Old Town) has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The province is also home to Germany's most sophisticated seaside resort and its northernmost point, the island of Sylt, famed for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, its celebrities, and its climate of iodine-rich air and lots of rain. The port city of Kiel is short on charm because it was severely bombed in World War II, but the ancient stronghold of Schleswig invites wandering, exploring, and dreaming of the golden age of the Vikings.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

LGBTQ people are widely accepted by a vast number of Germans, especially young people. All major cities have a wide and varied LGBTQ nightlife.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) is the trade association for the LGBTQ travel industry and offers an online directory of LGBTQ-friendly travel businesses.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries designed specifically for LGBTQ travelers. Now, Voyager is a well-known San Francisco-based example. Olivia Cruises & Resorts charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations.

When to Go

Peak travel months in Germany are May through October, with another boost in December when the Christmas markets are held and skiers head to the Bavarian Alps. Expect busy roads, lines at attractions and museums, and fewer lodging vacancies, but also long days (the sun sets as late as 9.30pm in June!), lots of festivals, and balmy nights in the beer garden. If travelling in spring, note that there are several holidays between Easter and June (Ascension Day, Labor Day, and Whit/Pentecost Sunday) when Germans like to take mini-vacations and popular places book out quickly.

Weather

Overall, Germany has a predominantly mild, temperate climate. Average summer temperatures range from 20C–30C (72F–80F). The average winter temperature hovers around 0C (32F).

Late spring and early fall can bring the nicest travel days, not too hot and often quite sunny. July and August can get stifling hot and humid, with thunderstorms in the afternoon being no rarity. November to February are the coldest and dullest months with frequent rain, snow, gloom, and sunsets around 4pm. Some museums and attractions curtail their hours or close altogether for the season. On the plus side, there are practically no crowds anywhere except the ski resorts.

Festivals & Special Events

There’s more to Germany than Oktoberfest. Germany hums year-round with festivals and special events of all kinds, and these can add an additional sparkle to your trip. Below are some of the most important ones.

January

New Year’s Ski Jump in Garmisch-Partenkirchen is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. January 1.

February

Berlin International Film Festival lasts for 10 days and showcases the work of international film directors in addition to the latest German films. Second week in February.

Fasching (Carnival) festivals take place in Catholic cities throughout Germany, reaching their peak on Rose Monday, the Monday before Ash Wednesday. Celebrations in Cologne and Munich are particularly famous. A week in February.

May

Hamburg Sommer is the umbrella name given to a summer-long series of cultural events in Hamburg, including concerts, plays, festivals, and special exhibitions. May through July.

Historisches Festspiel “Der Meistertrunk” is a costume festival in Rothenburg ob der Tauber that recreates the story of how a brave citizen saved the town from destruction by drinking a huge tankard of wine (an event called Der Meistertrunk). On Whitsuntide (Pentecost), as well as in early September and twice in October.

June

Heidelberg Castle Illumination. Heidelberg’s romantic castle is illuminated and showered with spectacular fireworks. One Saturday in early June, mid-July, and early September.

Mozart Festival in Würzburg is a major cultural event in Germany. Early June to early July.

Gay Pride festivals, featuring parades, performances, and street fairs, take place throughout Germany, with the largest celebrations held in Berlin, and Cologne. Berlin: last June weekend; Cologne: first July weekend.

July

Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival. One of the best music festivals in Europe, classical concerts take place in venues in and around the lovely old city of Lübeck. July and August.

Bayreuther Festspiele. During one of Europe’s major opera festivals, the work of Richard Wagner is performed in the opera house in Bayreuth that he himself designed. Late July through late August.

August

Nürnberger Herbstvolksfest, a big festival in Nuremberg, features amusement rides, concerts, and family events. Last week in August to the second week in September.

Alstervergnügen is a popular Hamburg festival with music, dancing, cultural events, food stalls and fireworks set around the Binnenalster Lake. Late August or early September.

Stuttgarter Weindorf (Wine Festival). Wine lovers converge on Schillerplatz in Stuttgart to taste a selection of hundreds of Württemberg wines and sample regional food specialties. Two weeks in late August to early September.

September

Musikfest Berlin plays host to orchestras, ensembles, conductors, and soloists from around the world. Three weeks in September.

Oktoberfest. The world’s biggest beer festival takes over the Theresienwiese grounds in Munich with giant beer tents, oompah bands, parades and amusement rides. Mid-September to first Sunday in October.

Cannstatter Volksfest. Dating back to 1818, the 16-day beerapalooza in Stuttgart is the second largest in Germany after Munich’s Oktoberfest. Late September to early October.

October

Frankfurter Buchmesse (Book Fair). The world’s largest book fair is a major event in international book publishing. Mid- or late October.

November

Jazzfest Berlin attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists with concerts staged at various Berlin venues. Three days in early November.

Hamburger Dom (also called Winterdom) amusement fair in Hamburg is the biggest public event in northern Germany. November through early December.

December

Christmas Markets, sometimes called Weihnachtsmarkt (Weihnachten means Christmas) or Christkindlmarkt (literally, “Christ Child Market”), take place in town squares throughout Germany, most notably Berlin, Cologne, Dresden, Munich, Nuremberg, Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Last weekend in November through Christmas.

Holidays

Public holidays are New Year’s (January 1), Easter (Good Friday, Easter Sunday, and Easter Monday), Ascension Day (40 days after Easter), Labor Day (May 1), Whit/Pentecost Sunday and Monday (50 days after Easter), Day of German Unity (October 3), Christmas (December 25 and 26). In addition, the following holidays are observed in some German states: Epiphany (January 6), Corpus Christi (10 days after Pentecost), Assumption (August 15), All Saints’ Day (November 1) and Reformation Day (October 31).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Visas are not needed by citizens of the U.S., Canada, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, or the U.K. for visits of less than 3 months. You do need a valid passport, unless you're a citizen of the E.U. (in which case you need only an identity card, though we recommend you always carry a passport anyway).

Customs

For specifics on what you can bring back into the United States, consult the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP) website. 

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Germany.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Disabled Travelers

Germany is one of the better countries for travelers with disabilities. All the large cities have excellent facilities. The local tourist offices can issue permits for drivers to allow them access to parking areas for people with disabilities. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible.

Older, smaller towns may pose more of a problem, however, especially where the streets are cobblestone. Also, because of Germany's many hills and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around outside of major cities, but conditions are slowly improving. If the areas you wish to visit seem inaccessible or you are not certain, you may want to consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab, which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB), a referral resource for those who are blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with service animals.

Air Ambulance Card allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. One example is Accessible Journeys.

Flying with Disability is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out Emerging Horizons for reliable travel news relating to accessibility.

Getting There

By Plane

Lufthansa operates frequent service from numerous cities in North America. Given the quality of the fleet and service, as well as timeliness, a flight on Lufthansa is a good kickoff to a trip to Germany.

U.S. carriers American Airlines, Delta Airlines, and United Airlines offer daily nonstop service to Germany as well.

From London, British Airways (tel. 0870/8509850; www.britishairways.com) and Lufthansa (tel. 01805/805805; www.lufthansa.com) are the most convenient carriers to the major German cities. British Midland (tel. 0870/6070555; www.flybmi.com) has daily flights to Cologne, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Munich. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) is among discount airlines offering low-cost service from Britain to dozens of German cities.

By Train

Many passengers travel to Germany by train from other European cities. (See Getting Around for information on purchasing rail passes.)

Calendar of Events

All dates and events below are subject to change. Contact the German National Tourist Board for more information.

January

New Year's Day International Ski Jumping, Garmisch-Partenkirchen. This is one of Europe's major winter sporting events. January 1.

February

International Film Festival, Berlin. Stars, would-be stars, directors, and almost anyone with a film to peddle show up at this well-attended festival. It's a showcase for the work of international film directors as well as the latest German films. Contact the Berlin International Film Festival for more information. Late February.

Ambiente. This is one of the principal consumer goods trade fairs of Europe. Its origins go back centuries. For information, call tel. 069/75750 (http://ambiente.messefrankfurt.com). Mid-February.

Fasching. Carnival festivals take place throughout Germany, reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. Particularly famous carnivals take place in Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, and especially Munich.

March

Spring Fairs. Highlights throughout Germany, especially in Augsburg, Münster, Nürnberg, Hamburg, and Stuttgart. Dates vary from year to year.

April

Walpurgis Festivals. Celebrated in the Harz Mountains. Festivities occur on the night of April 30.

May

Hamburg Summer. An entire series of cultural events, including concerts, plays, festivals, and special exhibitions throughout May, June, and July. For information, contact the Hamburg Tourist Bureau, in Hauptbahnhof (tel. 040/30051300; www.hamburg-tourism.de).

International May Theatre Festival, Wiesbaden. This city near Frankfurt hosts a premier cultural event—a series of artistic celebrations lasting a month. For information, contact the Wiesbaden Tourist Office.

June

Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg. Fireworks enliven the display in this storied university city. For more information, contact the Heidelberg Tourist Bureau. June, July, and September.

Mozart Festival, Würzburg. Mozart fans flock to this major cultural event in the baroque city of Würzburg. Mid-May to late June.

July

Freiburg Wine Tasting. Local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district. For more information, contact the Freiburg Tourist Board. Late July.

Richard Wagner Festival, Bayreuth. One of Europe's top opera events, this festival takes place in the composer's Festspielhaus in the capital of upper Franconia. Note that opera tickets often must be booked far in advance. For information, contact Bayreuther Festspiele. Late July to late August.

August

Musikfest Berlin takes place for a little more than 2 weeks. During the festival, Berlin plays host to orchestras, ensembles, conductors, and soloists from around the world. The festival is organized in conjunction with the Stiftung Berliner Philharmoniker.

September

Oktoberfest, Munich. Much of Germany's most famous festival takes place in September, not October. Millions show up, and hotels are packed. Most activities are at Theresienwiese, where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6,000 beer drinkers. Contact the Munich Tourist Bureau for particulars or just show up. Reserve hotel rooms well in advance. Mid-September to mid-October.

October

Frankfurt Book Fair. A major international event for publishers, book dealers, agents, and authors. Mid-October.

Spielzeit'europa. Schaperstrasse 24, Berlin (tel. 030/254890; www.berlinerfestspiele.de), is a 4-month season of theater and dance performances at Festspiele. October to January.

November

JazzFest Berlin. This annual festival, staged at the Philharmonie, attracts some of the world's finest jazz artists, ranging from traditional to experimental. Early November.

Winter Dom, Hamburg. An annual amusement fair (sometimes called Hamburg Dom) at the Heiligengeistfeld. Early November to early December.

December

Christmas Fair, Mainz. Mainz stages its Christmas fair on the Rhine for the 4 weeks preceding Christmas. December.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, admission costs, and local transportation.

Many people derive a sense of ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours—whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel or worrying about details. You know your costs upfront, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle—you don't have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to meet people.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You'll have few opportunities for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on lesser known gems.

Brendan Vacations has a selection of multiday tours. Accommodations are at the better hotels, and rates include everything except airfare. Collette Vacations covers Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Globus & Cosmos Tours offers escorted tours of various parts of Germany, and the company has a budget branch that offers tours at lower rates. Maupintour has a selection of upscale tours. Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) provides customized group tours to various areas of Germany.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Germans, with some justification, consider themselves in the avant-garde of green travel. In the postwar years they became a front-runner in preserving their environment and protecting nature.

"Germans are known for recycling and reusing their natural resources," said Berlin activist Hans Welder.

In Germany, more and more systems are going into place to generate energy from wind and solar power.

Germans didn't exactly invent walking or hiking across their countryside, but you would think so when you notice the numbers of citizens who prefer this form of exploration. It's a way to stay in good health, enjoy nature, and avoid harming the environment, all at the same time.

Trails in Germany are often signposted, cutting through all areas of the country, from tidal shores to low mountain regions, with tours offered to some of the more difficult-to-reach points along mountaintops.

The outdoor enthusiast might want to concentrate on Germany's national parks. Our favorite of these biosphere reserves is the Bavarian Forest National Park in the south and the Harz National Park in Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt.

For general data about the parks of Germany, consult Nationalpark Service.

If you're interested in camping, check the Great Outdoor Recreation Page (www.gorp.com) before you go. It has some fine data not only on camping but also on ways to enjoy the landscapes of Germany.

Reliable organizations devoted to eco-tourism include Biosphefere Expeditions and Earthwatch.

An unusual offering for the true green visitor is provided by Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOF). The organization's name says it all -- participants get free room and board at a variety of organic farms throughout the country, but they must be willing to work for their supper.

One of the best ways for the green traveler in Germany is to take a tour from one bio hotel to another. These jaunts take you to the most scenic parts of the country, ranging from Lüneburg in the north to the Bavarian Forest in the south. For information and a list of these places to stay, check www.biohotels.info.

Increasingly popular is spending a vacation on a German farm, a welcome alternative for families with children. Sometimes guests can help with the activities, such as feeding the cows or helping with the harvest. Some lodgings are no longer working farms but have been turned into tranquil guesthouses with typical regional charm. Find out more about this type of holiday by searching www.landreise.de.