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The majority of the island's good restaurants are in Castello, though there are a number of locales in Porto with lovely waterfront atmosphere. Campese is more casual, with a few pizzerie and take-away joints.

It'll Put Hair on Your Chest -- The local wine is Ansonaco, a robust amber-colored white with high alcohol content (17%). And no wonder it's hardy: Since time immemorial, the grapes have been grown on clifflike exposed terraces that are battered by everything this marine climate throws their way. Ansonaco is not a wine, as the Gigliesi point out, for signorine, and not to be consumed by the liter carafe -- trust me on this one. Have a glass to start the evening, and then switch to something a bit more tame.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.