Planning a trip to Gili Islands

Fast Facts

ATMs -- There is only one ATM among the three islands, in front of Hotel Vila Ombak, Gili T. Bring cash.

Business Hours -- Most restaurants on the islands are open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but exact times are nebulous. During high season, restaurants will open early and close late due to the influx of customers; in the low season, opening and closing times will depend on if they think customers are nearby. In low season, opening times are not guaranteed. Therefore, we have not listed opening and closing times for most restaurants.

Credit Cards -- You'll have the most luck trying to pay with a credit card at some of the bigger resorts, private villas, and dive schools on Gili T (with a 3% to 5% surcharge). Unless otherwise noted, accommodations and restaurants do not accept credit cards.

Doctors -- All of the islands have a nurse available who can treat basic first aid conditions. For more serious conditions, a doctor's surgery is available 24 hours on Gili T behind Vila Ombak.

Electricity -- Each of the Gilis suffer from a shortage of electricity. Sometimes the local electric company cuts the supply, so you can find yourself walking and dining under the stars. Most accommodations and restaurants on Gili Meno and Gili Air do not have backup generators, but many of the bigger resorts on Gili Trawangan do.

Etiquette -- The majority of Gili Islanders are Muslim, so please have respect and display as little nudity as you can. Do not sunbathe topless. Bikinis should be limited to the beach only.

Internet Access -- There are enough Internet cafes and shops that offer Internet access on the islands but they are all painfully slow. Expect to pay about Rp500 a minute. Some villas and premises on Gili T now offer free Wi-Fi.

Police -- There are no police on any of the islands, which partly accounts for the relaxed vibe. Any thefts, harassments, or complaints can be made to the island Kepala Desa (Head of the Village). They take crime very seriously and will go to extreme lengths to ensure the issue is cleared up, generally taking matters into their own hands. Most of the people associated with the Kepala Desa do not speak English, so always take someone from your hotel or villa with you and give them a contribution of thanks for their efforts. For insurance purposes you may need to visit the nearest police station in Mataram, Lombok.

Post Office -- There are no post offices on any of the islands. However, you can buy stamps from William's Bookshop on Gili T. Some hotels will post letters if you ask nicely.

Seasons -- High season is July, August, Christmas, New Years, and Nyepi (Balinese New Year, typically either Mar or Apr). Book months in advance as accommodations, though plentiful on Gili T, fill quickly and some find themselves camping on the beach (although many are there possibly because they couldn't find their way home). During low season, things are decidedly quieter. Though most accommodations prices are open to negotiation any time of the year, you'll have more success during the low season. Rainy season falls between November and April with less rain than Bali and Lombok, but it is still worth a visit during these times.

Shopping -- Various small kiosks sell drinks, snacks, basic food, toiletries, and suntan lotion on all three islands. Prices are considerably higher than the mainland. A few stalls and shops make and sell souvenirs items, but you're best off doing your souvenir shopping on the larger islands.

Travel Agents -- Perama Tours has offices on all the islands and can arrange transportation back to Lombok and Bali. They can also arrange a selection of tours to the nearby islands.

Water -- The Gilis do not have freshwater. Do not drink water from the tap. Bottled water is widely available. Make sure the bottles are sealed.

Getting There

By Air

The Gilis do not have an airport and sea planes have yet to catch on. You'll have to fly first to Mataram, Lombok, and then take a boat.

On arrival in Mataram, if you haven't organized private transportation, purchase a ticket from the taxi office to either Bangsal (public harbor) or Teluk Nare or Teluk Kodek (both private harbors). The journey takes approximately 40 minutes; cost is about Rp120,000 each way. The taxi can take you on the Monkey Forest route or the coastal route, so you can get in a touch of sightseeing on your way. Either route takes the same amount of time and the same amount of money -- although the coastal route is prettier.

By Boat

The trip will take you across the Wallace Line, a deep water boundary, running from Australia to Borneo. To the east live Asian and Australasian flora and fauna, and to the west live Asiatic. Chances are you will see dolphins and a whole array of bird life, which seem to also observe the boundary.

Public Boat from Bangsal Public Harbour, Lombok -- Taxis must finish their journey at the port gate which, for reasons best known to the cidomo drivers, is 600m (1,968 ft.) from the actual port. You can either walk these last 600m (2,000 ft.) or take the ever-present cidomos, although at an average of Rp30,000 per single journey it is hardly going to break the bank. Once at the harbor, buy a boat ticket from the office; do not be tempted to buy a ticket from anyone else, no matter how enticing the so-called deal may sound. Prices from the ticket office at Bangsal are fixed.

Boats run daily 8am to 4:30pm; the journey takes approximately 40 minutes but can take longer depending on the weather.

Bangsal has a small shop selling snacks and toiletries. You can either buy here or wait until you arrive on the islands. All the islands now have their own basic stores.

Fast Boat from Bali

A number of direct fast boat services are now available from Bali to Gili T. No boat service is available to Gili Meno as it is too shallow; Island Getaway offers a service to Gili Air, too, if required, at no extra cost. If you are staying in Kuta, Seminyak, and Sanur, one of the most established options is Blue Water Express from Benoa Harbour. For those staying near Ubud, Candidasa, or the east coast, it is quicker to depart from Pandangbai, about 2 hours from Seminyak. Check the weather forecast before you book as the journey is far more pleasant on calm seas.

The Blue Water Express (tel. 0361/723479; 08/1338418988 after hours; www.bwsbali.com) departs Bali International Marina in Benoa Harbour daily at 8am and from Gili T at 11am. Journey time is 2 to 2 1/2 hours; tickets cost Rp690,000 one-way; Rp1,300,000 round-trip.

The Gili Cat (tel. 0361/271680; www.gilicat.com) departs Padangbai (east Bali) daily at 9am; from Teluk Kode, Lombok, at 11:45am; and from Gili Trawangan at 11:15am. Journey time is around 2 hours; tickets are Rp660,000 one-way; Rp1,200,000 round-trip. Afternoon service leaves Bali at 1:30pm and Gili T at 3:30pm.

Island Getaway (tel. 0361/753241; www.gili-paradise.com) boats depart Benoa Harbour daily at 8am; and from Gili Trawangan at 11:30am. The trip takes 2 to 2 1/2 hours; tickets are Rp650,000 one-way; Rp1,300,000 round-trip.

Black Pearl (tel. 08/17343168; www.bluewatercruises.com) leaves from Serangan Harbour at 9am and returns from Gili T at 1pm stopping at Teluk Kode. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours; tickets are Rp680,000 one-way; Rp1,260,000 round-trip.

Getting on the Right Boat -- Each boat heading to the Gili Islands has a strip down its bow: white is for Gili Air; yellow for Gili Meno; and blue for Gili Trawangan.

Shuttle Bus & Boat from Bali

If you have time or a tight budget, you may wish to experience how the locals travel. Catch the public ferry (capacity 100) from Padangbai. Perama Tours (main office: Legian 39, Kuta; tel. 0361/751551 or 0361/751875; www.peramatour.com) shuttle bus and boat service runs daily from several points on Bali by bus to Padangbai, then direct to Gili T on the slow boat. The service takes around 8 hours. Though the boat looks like it lists heavily, fear not, it has looked this way for a long time. Times and prices are from: Kuta, 10am, Rp350,000; Sanur, 10:15am, Rp350,000; Ubud, 11am, Rp350,000; Padangbai, 1:30pm, Rp300,000; Candidasa, 12:30pm, Rp325,000; Lovina, 9am, Rp450,000.

The return leg from Gili T leaves at 7am and 9am from Senggigi.

A Local Experience

You can also negotiate with the local fishermen in Amed, Bali, who will sail you in their jukung to any of Gilis. The whole village gets involved in making these boats, carved from a single tree trunk with an outrigger on each side. The journey takes about 3 hours. It's a lovely way to see the coast, watch for sea life, and enjoy a local experience. The seats are wooden struts and the cover overhead from the sun can be inadequate where it exists. Expect to pay between Rp200,000 to Rp300,000 for the boat, which should fit up to four people. If you're on Lombok, hire a boat from the west coast.

Taking the Local Boats -- None of the local boats carry life jackets. With little shade, it can also get hot on the boat, so take strong sun block and a hat.

Getting Around

Getting Between the Gili Islands

Tourist boats shuttle between the islands, running a circuit starting in Air, then on to Meno, then Trawangan then back to Meno, and finally Air twice daily. The boats leave pretty much on time, with timetables at each ferry point, and give you a chance to take in an island for the day at little cost. The fixed fares are: Air to Meno Rp17,000; Air to Gili T Rp19,500; Gili T to Meno Rp19,000. Boat times are posted in the station office. It's a good idea to check the times 1 day ahead of your planned trip.

To charter your own boat, you need to negotiate with one of the omnipresent boatman. The boatmen are businessmen and the price will vary depending on how wealthy they think you are. Have some sympathy, petrol is not cheap, the engines are expensive to run, and they are not guaranteed a return trip. Negotiate, but be fair.

Getting Around the Gili Islands

Once on the islands the only mode of transport is nonmotorized. You can use a cidomo (horse-drawn cart), hire a bicycle, or just walk. What's the rush, anyway? Expect to pay between Rp20,000 and Rp30,000 for a cidomo for a short trip, and multiples thereof if you make stops along the way. Bikes can be hired throughout the islands. They are not cheap and none come with chains and locks. You will likely leave your bike outside a restaurant only to return and find it missing. Due to the size of the islands, if you walk along the road you will find it parked outside another bar. Thankfully the shop owners are understanding and no deposit is taken as no bikes leave their home island.