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Most accommodation is on the east and north coasts alongside the best swimming and snorkeling. Places here are just off the main drag. Book ahead if you are traveling in July, August, and around Christmas and New Year when hotels can get booked up months in advance. When booking, one consideration to be aware of is the mosque near the jetty where the morning call to prayer starts at 5am.

A few offerings dot the west coast, but as the water is shallow and the beaches full of remnants of dead coral, there is little swimming to be done here. The roads are covered in many places, especially on the western and northern coast, in soft sand that makes it difficult for both cidomos and bikes. You may have to get off both at times.

Head for the north for peace and quiet. Most accommodation here is basic to mid-level but the one top luxury option is Kelapa Luxury Villas. The strip of town is only a 10-minute cart ride away. Don't forget to take the driver's telephone number if you want a late return. Most cidomos stop running around 11pm but if you arrange ahead you will find someone to give you a lift. Failing that, it's no more than a lovely 30-minute stroll. Take a torch -- or let the stars guide you.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.