Planning a trip to Glasgow

Visitor Information

Before you travel from abroad, you can get information from VisitBritain (www.visitbritain.com or VisitScotland (www.visitscotland.com).

In the United States: 551 Fifth Ave., Suite 701, New York, NY 10176-0799 (tel. 800/462-2748, or 212/986-2200 in New York; fax 212/986-1188); 625 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1001, Chicago, IL, 60611-1977 (tel. 800/462-2748); 10880 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 570, Los Angeles, CA, 90024 (tel. 310/470-2782). In Canada: 5915 Airport Rd., Suite 120, Mississauga, ON L4V 1T1 (tel. 888/VISIT-UK in Canada; fax 905/405-1835 in Toronto). In Australia: Level 2, 15 Blue St., North Sydney NSW 2060 (tel. 02/9021-4400; fax 02/9377-4499). In New Zealand: c/o British Consulate General Office, Level 17, IAG House, 151 Queen St., Auckland 1 (tel. 09/303-1446; fax 09/309-1899).

If you're in London, you can visit VisitScotland, 19 Cockspur St., London SW1Y 5BL (tel. 020/7930-8661); it's near Trafalgar Square, open May to September Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 6:30pm and Saturday from 10am to 5pm. October to April the hours are Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm and Saturday noon to 4pm.

Once in Edinburgh or Glasgow, you will find the Tourist Information Centres more useful. In the capital, the main office is the Edinburgh Information Centre, atop the Princes Mall near Waverley Station (tel. 0131/473-3800 or 0845/225-5121; fax 0131/473-3881; www.edinburgh.org). It can give you sightseeing information and also arrange lodgings. The center sells bus tours, theater tickets, and souvenirs of Edinburgh. It also has racks and racks of free brochures. It's open year-round, though hours vary from month to month. The summer hours are slightly longer and winter times shorter, but typically you'll find the office open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 7pm and Sunday from 10am to 7pm. There is an information desk at Edinburgh International Airport, open typically Monday through Sunday 7am to 6:30pm.

The Greater Glasgow and Clyde Valley Tourist Board, 11 George Sq. (tel. 0141/204-4400; www.seeglasgow.com; Underground: Buchanan St.), has a full range of services, from hotel reservations to currency exchange. In addition to piles of brochures, there is a small bookshop. During peak season it is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 7pm and Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Hours are more limited during winter months. Getting full information about traveling around Glasgow can be a bit frustrating. Traveline (tel. 0871/200-2233) offers bus and rail timetable information but cannot tell you costs.

What's on the Web? -- There is naturally a host of websites that vary in usefulness. The British tourist board's www.visitbritain.org has the overall U.K. picture. But for information on Scotland, it's probably better to go directly to www.visitscotland.com or www.toscotland.com, both of which have detailed information, offer brochures online, provide trip-planning hints, and answer e-mail queries. A slightly more corporate view is at www.scotexchange.net. The other useful and official tourism websites for Edinburgh and Glasgow are www.edinburgh.org and www.seeglasgow.com.

For the most up-to-date events listings, go to www.list.co.uk, which also publishes a fortnightly cultural magazine. The two organizations that operate most of Scotland's historical sites have websites as well: www.historic-scotland.gov.uk for Historic Scotland and www.nts.org.uk for the National Trust for Scotland.

For an independent and eccentric view, search blogs in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Finally, though it is not clear how often they are updated, you might also have a look at www.scotland-info.co.uk, www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk, or www.rampantscotland.com.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Telephones in Scotland operate pretty much like telephones in the U.S. or anywhere in the Western world. Pay phones are less common, given that the telephone companies say they're expensive to maintain and an estimated 90% of the population now have mobile (cell) phones. For calls within Scotland, England, Wales, and Northern Ireland, you need to know the local or city codes, such as 0141 for Glasgow. They always start with zero but sometimes they are five digits long. For international calls, you need to know the country code of the place you are calling. For assistance in making calls outside the U.K., dial 155 for an international operator.

Calling Scotland from Abroad -- To call Scotland from outside the U.K., dial the international prefix, for example 011 in the U.S.; then U.K.'s country code, 44; then the city code, for example, 131 for Edinburgh and 141 for Glasgow; and then the local phone number. Inside the U.K. you add a zero before the local or city code, so 0141 for Glasgow.

Cellphones

First, cellphones are called mobiles in Scotland. The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless/Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high - usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. (Even world phone owners will have to rent new phones if they're traveling to non-GSM regions, such as Japan or Korea.) While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to www.intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hotspots." Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www.wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. iPass providers also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hotspots that provide free wireless networks in cities around the world, go to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/WirelessCommunities.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in the U.S. and Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet Service Providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You'll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on "Individuals Buy Now." One solid provider is i2roam (tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475; www.i2roam.com).

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable - or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many discounts are available to seniors. Even if discounts aren't posted, ask if they're available. Seniors should always exercise caution in historic sites, where the ground can be uneven, and on cobbled streets in Edinburgh.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for adults 55 and up. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers aged 50 and older. INTRAV (tel. 800/456-8100; www.intrav.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler (not specifically seniors), with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private-jet adventures, and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: The quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.trave150andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; www.gct.com); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Getting Around

One of the best ways to explore Glasgow is by foot. The center of town is laid out on a grid, which makes map reading relatively easy. However, some of the city's significant attractions, such as the Burrell Collection, are in surrounding districts, and for those, you'll need to rely on public transportation or a car.

By Bus

Glasgow has an extensive (if somewhat confusing) bus service run by the privately owned First Group. The buses can be embarrassingly litter-strewn by the end of the day, and routes tend to run between east and west or north and south, with almost all buses coming through the city center on busy thoroughfares such as St. Vincent, Hope, Argyll, and Sauchiehall streets. Service is frequent during the day. After 11pm it is curtailed on most routes, but some (for example, 40 or 62) run all night long (at least on weekends), although there is a premium put on tickets. Typically, one-way (single) fares are about £1.80, and for £3.75 you can use the buses (after 9:30am) all day long with few restrictions. A weeklong ticket costs £16. The city bus station is the Buchanan Street Bus Station. The "Traveline" number (tel. 0871/200-2233) gives timetable information (but not fares); you can also log on to www.firstgroup.com.

"FirstDay" Bargain on the Buses -- For £3.75, at time of writing, you can buy a FirstDay ticket that allows you to hop on and off buses run by the main bus company all day long. The ticket is valid daily from 9:30am to midnight. It's sold by drivers. For more information, check www.firstgroup.com.

By Underground & Suburban Train

Glasgow's Underground, which in a nod to the city's American cousins is officially called the Subway, offers a 15-stop circular system linking the city center, West End, and a bit of the Southside. There are no stops east of the city center. During the day there is generally no more than a 5- to 8-minute wait for trains. Trains run on longer intervals on Sunday and at night. The one-way adult fare is £1.10. Alternatively, you can purchase an all-day Discovery Ticket for £3.50 or a 20-trip ticket booklet for £19. The underground runs Monday to Saturday 6:30am to about 11:30pm and Sunday 11am to about 6pm.

The Transcentre (local ticket sales only) at the St. Enoch underground station, two blocks from the Central Station, is generally open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, but it closes early on Wednesday. On Sunday, the hours are 10am to 5pm.

Glasgow and the region have the largest train network in Great Britain after London, operated by the private franchise holder First ScotRail and the quasi-public body now called the Strathclyde Partnership for Transport (SPT). Local train services to both Central (upper and lower levels) and Queen Street (lower level only) stations run as frequently as every 10 minutes or so during the day to destinations in the West End and on the Southside. Service is less frequent after the evening rush hour, and the system shuts down around midnight. While extensive, the trains are not cheap by European standards. A typical round-trip fare is £3 to £5.50.

For families on an excursion, the Daytripper ticket is excellent. For £17.50, two adults and up to four children (5-15 years old) can travel anywhere in the system (including broad swaths of Ayrshire) by suburban train, the underground, most buses, and even a few ferries. For one adult and two children, the fare is £9.80.

The main SPT switchboard is tel. 0141/332-6811. Hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm, or visit www.spt.co.uk.

By Taxi

Metered taxis are the same excellent ones found in Edinburgh or London: the Fast Black, which you can hail or pick up at taxi ranks in the city center. Alternatively you can also reserve one by calling Glasgow Taxis Ltd. (tel. 0141/429-7070). Most taxi trips within the city cost between £6 and £16. A surcharge is imposed for late-night/early-morning runs. There are also Glasgow Private Hire cars, but they cannot be hailed. Call tel. 0141/774-3000.

By Car

Glasgow, in reality, goes a long way toward encouraging car use with several multistory parking lots offering parking prices cheaper than public transport tickets. But traffic at times is absolute murder. Metered street parking is available, but expensive. Some zones in residential areas are marked PERMIT HOLDERS ONLY - your vehicle may be towed if you lack a permit. A double yellow line along the curb indicates no parking at any time. A single yellow line along the curb indicates restrictions, too, so be sure to read the signs for details of limitations.

If you want to rent a car, it's best to arrange it in advance. But if you want to rent a car locally, most companies will accept your foreign driver's license. All the major rental agencies are represented at the airport. In addition, Avis Rent-a-Car is at 70 Lancefield St. (tel. 0870/608-6339); Budget Rent-a-Car is at 101 Waterloo St. (tel. 0800/212-636); and Arnold Clark is at multiple locations (tel. 0845/607-4500).

By Bicycle

Though bikes are not as widely used in Glasgow as in Edinburgh, most parts of the city are fine for biking.

Orientation

Virtually all evidence of Glasgow's medieval existence was demolished by some well-meaning - if heritage-destroying - urban renewal schemes of late Georgian and Victorian Glasgow. So, no narrow alleys and cobbled streets remain in the original city center around the High Street. Still standing on the hill at the top of High Street is Glasgow Cathedral, an excellent example of pre-Reformation Gothic architecture next to the hill-filling Central Necropolis. Down the High Street, no longer the city's main street, you'll find the Tolbooth Steeple (1626) at Glasgow (or Mercat) Cross. The Mercat Cross was the hub of the city until the 18th century. This area is now generally called Merchant City and it flows rather seamlessly into Glasgow's commercial center. Both are laid out in a grid system, so navigation is reasonably easy along primary arteries such as Buchanan Street, Argyle Street, Bath Street, Sauchiehall Street, and St. Vincent Street. Stretches of a few of these are traffic-free and full of pedestrians.

The city's salubrious and leafy West End is just a short journey from central Glasgow, on the other side of the M8. The late Georgian terraces of Woodlands Hill, rising to Park Circus, afford excellent views. Nearby, the tower of the University of Glasgow dominates the skyline. For the West End and Glasgow in general, Byres Road is a primary social and entertainment destination, full of restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops.

The city's Southside sprawls from the River Clyde and is largely residential. The commercial heart of the Southside is Shawlands, which offers an increasing number of good restaurants, and nearby Queens Park is a hilly classic of Victorian planning.

Glasgow's East End is slowly redeveloping after the boom of its industrial heyday went bust. Visitors to one primary East End artery, the Gallowgate, should visit the flea-market stalls of the Barras at the weekend. A few neighborhoods, such as Dennistoun, which is east down Duke Street from the Cathedral area, are gradually drawing young, creative types who can no longer afford apartments in the West End or on the Southside: A renaissance is simmering.

Finding an Address

Glasgow was built in various sections over the years, and some historic districts, such as the infamous Gorbals, south of the city center, have been torn down in the name of slum clearance: Streets have been completely reconfigured to accommodate modern traffic flows. Other neighborhoods have fallen prey to freeway development. Luckily for visitors, the city center is primarily laid out on a grid, which makes it easier to navigate.

Get a detailed map of Glasgow before setting out. Always find the nearest cross street, and then look for your location from there. If it's a hotel or restaurant, the sign of an establishment is often more prominent than the number.

Getting There

By Plane

British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297, or 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.ba.com) offers frequent nonstop flights daily from London's Heathrow Airport to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. BMI (formerly British Midland; tel. 0870/607-0555; www.flybmi.com) also flies from Heathrow to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. It is a member of the international "Star Alliance," which includes carriers such as Air Canada, Air New Zealand, United, and US Airways. From overseas, carriers that fly directly to Edinburgh and Glasgow from the U.S. have changed over the past few years. What long-haul flights there are tend to arrive and depart from Glasgow's airport.

London, of course, has flights from all corners of the globe. Internally, it is worth remembering Ryanair (tel. 0871/246-0000; www.ryanair.com), which is a budget airline that flies from Stansted outside London to Prestwick south of Glasgow. Also Flybe, another discount carrier, with flights into Edinburgh and Glasgow from other U.K. airports.

By Car

If you're driving north to Scotland from England, it's fastest to take the M1 Motorway (freeway or expressway) north from London. You can reach the M1 by driving to the ring road from any point in the British capital. Southeast of Leeds, you'll need to connect with the A1 (not a motorway), which you take north to Scotch Corner. Here the M1 resumes, ending south of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Then you can take the A696, which becomes the A68, for its final run north into Edinburgh.

If you're in the west of England, go north along the M5, which begins at Exeter (Devon). Eventually this will merge with the M6. Continue north on the M6 until you reach a point north of Carlisle. From Carlisle, cross into Scotland near Gretna Green. Continue north along the A74 via Moffat. The A74 soon becomes the M74 heading toward Glasgow. If your goal is Edinburgh, not Glasgow, various roads will take you east to the Scottish capital, including the M8, which goes part of the way, as do the A702, A70, and A71 (all these routes are well signposted).

By Train or Bus

From England, two main rail lines link London to Scotland. The most popular and fastest route is the one departing King's Cross Station in London to Edinburgh's Waverley Station, going by way of Newcastle. This is the so-called East Coast Mainline. Trains cross from England into Scotland at Berwick-upon-Tweed. But future attention is on the West Coast Mainline, where trains leave Euston Station in London for Glasgow's Central Station, by way of Carlisle. The line has been upgraded once for faster trains and there has been some talk (but no money) of building a high-speed line like the ones you see in France or Japan, cutting the travel time from London to Glasgow to about 2 hours. Most of the current trains still take at least 4 hours to reach the heart of Scotland's main city centers. Fares vary quite widely but advance reservations for non-flexible tickets are the cheapest and as low as about £10 each way. Bought on the day or for a ticket offering travel any time with no restrictions, the price will be considerably more expensive.

The journey from London to Glasgow and Edinburgh by bus or coach can take up to 12 long hours, although express buses can make the trip in fewer than 10 hours. National Express (tel. 0870/580-8080; www.nationalexpress.com) runs buses daily (typically 9:30am, noon, and 11pm for direct services) from London's Victoria Coach Station to Edinburgh's Bus Station near St. Andrew Square; while direct buses for Glasgow's Buchanan Street Bus Station, north of the Queen Street Station on North Hanover Street (tel. 0870-608-2608), leave London's Victoria Coach Station at 9am and 11:30pm. The standard fare is around £35, though Internet and advance purchase discounts are available. Scottish CityLink (tel. 0870/550-5050; www.citylink.co.uk) also has a frequent bus service between Edinburgh and Glasgow, with a standard one-way ticket costing £6.

Tips for Families

When booking overnight rooms, ask whether family suites are available. Historical attractions in Edinburgh and Glasgow often offer family tickets.

Familyhostel (tel. 800/733-9753; www.learn.unh.edu) takes the whole family, including kids 8 to 15, on moderately priced U.S. and international learning vacations. Lectures, field trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team of academics.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com).

Tips for Student Travelers

If you're traveling internationally, you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is available from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com; or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people; this entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The American Express office in Edinburgh exchanges money and traveler's checks as well as performing other services for cardholders. It is at 69 George St. (tel. 0131/718-2501; Bus: 13, 19, or 41). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 9am to 5pm; on Wednesday, the office opens at 9:30am. In Glasgow, the office is at 66 Gordon St. (tel. 0141/225-2905), Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to noon.

Area Codes -- The city code for Edinburgh is 0131, and for Glasgow it's 0141. These codes cover some of the surrounding towns. Regional area codes in Scotland are 5 digits long (including the zero). The country code for Scotland is 44. When phoning from outside the U.K., you drop the zero from the local code.

To make international calls from Scotland, dial 00 and then the country code, local code, and telephone number. The U.S. and Canadian country code is 1, Australia is 61, and New Zealand is 63. If you can't find a number, a directory is available by dialing a variety of numbers (thanks to privatization of the service), including tel. 118-118 or tel. 118-800 for domestic numbers and tel. 118-505 for international numbers. To make collect calls outside the U.K., dial 155 for an international operator.

Business Hours -- Most businesses are open Monday through Saturday from 9 or 9:30am to 5 or 5:30pm, with some exceptions. Many businesses and shops are closed Sunday, although several shops in the cities open on Sunday afternoons. Most cities also have extended shopping hours on Thursday until 8pm. Outside of Edinburgh and Glasgow, businesses may close for lunch, generally from 12:30 to 1:30pm.

Banks are normally open from 9 or 10am until about 5pm on weekdays. Banks are good places to exchange currency and get credit card cash advances.

Dentists -- If you have a dental emergency, go to the Edinburgh Dental Institute, 39 Lauriston Place (tel. 0131/536-4900; Bus: 35), open Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm. In Glasgow, go to the Accident and Emergency Department of Glasgow Dental Hospital, 378 Sauchiehall St. (tel. 0141/211-9600). Its hours are Monday to Friday 9:15am to 3:15pm and Sunday and public holidays 10:30am to noon. For additional assistance, call the National Health Service line (tel. 0800/224-488).

Doctors -- You can seek help from the Edinburgh Royal Infirmary, 1 Lauriston Place (tel. 0131/536-1000; Bus: 35). The emergency department is open 24 hours. In Glasgow, the main hospital for emergency treatment (24 hours) in the city is the Royal Infirmary, 82-86 Castle St. (tel. 0141/211-4000). For additional assistance, call the National Health Service line (tel. 0800/224-488).

Drinking Laws -- You can drink legally on your own at 18. Children with parents can have a low-alcohol drink such as beer or wine with a meal. Beer, wine, and spirits are sold at off-licences (the equivalent of U.S. liquor stores), small groceries licensed to sell alcohol, and supermarkets. By law, off-licence shops can only sell alcohol from 10am to 10pm.

Electricity -- The electric current in Scotland is 240 volts AC, which is different than the U.S. current, so most small appliances brought from the U.S., such as hair dryers and shavers, don't work (and the current could damage the appliance). If you're considering bringing your laptop or iron from home, check the voltage first to see if it has a range between 110 volts and 240 volts. If the voltage doesn't have a range, the only option is to purchase an expensive converter. If the voltage does have a higher range, then you still need to buy an outlet adapter because your prongs won't fit in the Scottish sockets. You can buy an adapter for about $10 at an appliance store or even at the airport. Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- Embassies are located in London. Edinburgh has consulates and high commissions for Australia (69 George St.; tel. 0131/624-3700), Canada (30 Lothian Rd.; tel. 0131/245-6013), and the United States (3 Regents Terrace; tel. 0131/556-8315).

Emergencies -- For any emergency, contact the police or an ambulance by calling tel. 999 from any phone. You can also call the National Health Service Helpline (NHS Direct), tel. 0845-4647, which offers health-related advice and assistance from 8am to 10pm daily. For emergencies, treatment is free, although you will be billed for long stays.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Like pretty much everywhere in the world, the price of gas and diesel in Scotland has risen considerably in the 2000s. As of mid-2010, the prices were nearly £1.30 for a liter. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. That should put U.S. drivers' complaints about expensive gas into context. It's much more costly in the U.K. If you're not venturing outside Edinburgh or Glasgow, don't bother getting a car and save some cash.

Holidays -- Public holidays vary slightly between Scotland and England. In general, they share Christmas, New Year's Day, and Easter.

Hotlines -- Edinburgh & Lothian Women's Aid is at tel. 0131/229-1419. Lothian Gay & Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 0131/556-4049) offers advice from 7:30 to 10pm daily; the Lesbian Line is tel. 0131/557-0751. The Rape Crisis Centre is at tel. 0141/331-1990. In Glasgow, the Centre for Women's Health is at Sandyford Place, Sauchiehall St. (tel. 0141/211-6700). Gays and lesbians can call the Strathclyde Gay & Lesbian Switchboard at tel. 0141/847-0447. The Rape Crisis Centre is at tel. 0141/331-1990.

Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com); for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies. U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Internet Access -- The advent of Wi-Fi means that many cafes, hotel lobbies, and other public buildings will have Internet access. There is an EasyInternet Cafe at 58 Rose St., between Frederick and Hanover streets (www.easyeverything.com; Bus: 42), is open daily from 7:30am to 10:30pm. It has some 448 terminals. In Glasgow, try EasyInternet Cafe, 57-61 St. Vincent St. (www.easyeverything.com; Underground: Buchanan St.). This outlet offers more than 350 computers and good rates. Open Monday to Friday from 7am to 10pm; Saturday and Sunday 8am to 9pm.

Laundromats -- In Glasgow, the most central service is Garnethill Cleaners, 39 Dalhousie St. (tel. 0141/332-2387; Underground: Cowcaddens), open Monday to Saturday from about 7:30am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 8am to 5pm.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Both Edinburgh Waverley and Glasgow Queen Street police stations have lost property departments.

Mail -- The Edinburgh Branch Post Office, St. James Centre, is open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm. In Glasgow, the main branch is at 47 St. Vincent's St. (tel. 0141/204-3689; Underground: Buchanan St.). It's open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:45pm and Saturday 9am to 5:30pm. Smaller branches are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm and Saturday from 9am to noon. Often, however, they will close early on one day of the week. For general postal information, call tel. 0845/722-3344.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Published since 1817, The Scotsman is a quality daily newspaper with a national and international perspective, while its sister publication, the Evening News, concentrates more on local affairs. In Glasgow, published since 1783, The Herald is the major newspaper with national, international, and financial news, sports, and cultural listings; the Evening Times offers local news. The Daily Record is for tabloid enthusiasts only. For comprehensive arts and entertainment listings and reviews of local shows, buy The List magazine, which is published every other Wednesday—and weekly during the Festival. Metro, a free daily (Mon-Fri) available on buses and in train stations, also gives listings of daily events.

Public Toilets -- Usually costing 20p at rail stations and free in department stores. A few public toilets, often marked WC, are still found in Edinburgh and Glasgow. They're safe and clean but likely to be closed late in the evening.

Smoking -- In April 2006, a ban on smoking in all enclosed public spaces—including business offices, restaurants, and pubs—went into effect. Smoking was already prohibited on all trains and buses.

Taxes -- A consumption tax of 17.5% is charged on pretty much all goods and services. It's called VAT (value-added tax) and given the U.K.'s budget woes, it may go up after 2010. Tourists from outside the European Union are entitled to a refund, however, VAT is nonrefundable for services such as hotels, meals, and car rentals.

Telephones -- Both cities still have pay phones that accept coins and credit cards.

Time -- Scotland follows Greenwich Mean Time, which is five time zones ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States (8 hours ahead of the Pacific Coast). So, when it's noon in New York, it's 5pm in Glasgow. The clocks are set forward by 1 hour for British summer time in late March, which expires at the end of October. The high latitude blesses the country with long days in the summer, with sunset as late as 10 or even 11pm. But the opposite is true in winter, when the sun sets as early as 3:30 or 4pm.

Weather -- For weather forecasts and severe road-condition warnings, call the Met Office tel. 0870/900-0100. An advisor will offer forecasts for the entire region and beyond.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Scotland poses no particular health risks. The crisis over so-called mad-cow disease has passed and in fact it apparently never affected cattle in Scotland. Restrictions have been lifted, but it has been suggested that it's safer to eat beef cut from the bone instead of served on the bone. Avian flu remains a concern here as almost everywhere, but the country is not particularly vulnerable.

In general, contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What To Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If you need a doctor, your hotel can recommend one, or you can contact your embassy or consulate. If you need an ambulance, dial 999. Remember: U.S. visitors are eligible for free emergency care. For follow-up care, you should expect to be asked to pay.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels - otherwise they might not make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Safety

Staying Safe -- Like most big cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow have their share of crime. Handguns are banned by law, however, and shootings are exceedingly rare. Knives present a problem but one largely confined to youth gangs. Fights can flare up unexpectedly in either city, but in Glasgow, particularly, during heated soccer matches; exercise caution if any are being played during your stay. Marches of the Orange Order in June and July can also be scenes of random aggression.

In general, however, compared to most large cities of Europe, Edinburgh and Glasgow are equally safe, and violent crime against visitors is extremely rare. The same precautions prevail in these larger cities as they do elsewhere in the world. Tourists are typically prey to incidents of pickpocketing; mugging; "snatch and grab" theft of cell phones, watches, and jewelry; and theft of unattended bags, especially late at night, in poorly lit areas of the city. Also avoid visiting ATMs if it is late and there aren't many people around.

Visitors should take steps to ensure the safety of their passports. In Scotland, you are not expected to produce photo identity to police authorities, and passports may be more secure in locked hotel rooms or safes.

Dealing with Discrimination -- Both Edinburgh and Glasgow are progressive cities and, in Scotland, discrimination is punishable by law. Racial flare-ups have occurred in housing projects on the cities' outskirts where asylum seekers have been sent. Travelers are unlikely to experience any discrimination, although gay and lesbian tourists do occasionally report cool receptions at smaller hotels and B&Bs.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All visitors entering from abroad must have a valid passport with at least 2 months' validity remaining. No visa is required. An immigration officer may also want proof of your intention to return to your point of origin (usually a round-trip ticket). If you're planning to fly from the United States or Canada to the United Kingdom and then on to a country that requires a visa (India, for example), you should secure that visa before you arrive in Britain.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 900/225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go the "Foreign Entry Requirement" web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Scotland -- The same rules for travel to any part of the U.K. apply to travel to Scotland. From outside the European Union, you can bring in the following for your own use without paying tax or duty: 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams (9 oz.) of smoking tobacco; 60cc of perfume; 2 liters of still table wine; 250cc eau de toilette; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs or 2 liters of fortified wine; £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. Any amounts over these limits should be declared.

If you bring in goods from a European Union member country on which tax has been paid in that country, no tax or duty is due (as long as they are for your own personal use). Some special rules may apply, however, for tobacco from some E.U. countries.

For up-to-date information on customs, go to www.hmrc.gov.uk and search for "information for travelers."

What You Can Take Home from Scotland -- Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 7kg (5 pounds) of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 22kg (50 pounds) of carbon dioxide emitted.

• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodation ratings.

• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies - Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com - also do a brisk business in packages.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours - whether they're navigated by bus, motor coach, train, or boat - let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure - plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem. For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see frommers.com.

When to Go

The Lowlands of Scotland usually have a moderate year-round temperature. In spring, the average is around 53°F (12°C), rising to about 65°F (18°C) in summer. By the time the crisp fall has arrived, the temperatures have dropped to spring levels. In winter, the average temperature is 43°F (6°C), but can be colder and sub-freezing days are not unheard of, but not the norm, either. Temperatures of northern Scotland and the Highlands are generally lower, especially in winter, and you should dress accordingly. On the islands, the weather is just a bit more temperate, but can be typically windy. In the cities, daytime temperatures are higher.

It rains a fair amount in Scotland, but perhaps not as much as age-old myths would have it: The average annual rainfall in Edinburgh is about the same as that in London. September can be the sunniest month.

When You Find Bargains

The cheapest time to travel is off-season: Late October up to Easter (excluding Christmas and New Year). Rates for hotels hit their peak in the high season from June through September, and particularly in Edinburgh during the Festival in August rates at some hotels rise noticeably. Mid-July and August are when many locals take their holidays, which are increasingly spent inside the U.K., so besides the higher prices, you'll have to deal with bigger crowds and greater demand for hotel rooms.

Those coming from abroad should note that airlines are known to offer cut-rate fares during off-periods. Weekday flights are generally cheaper than weekend fares, often by at least 10%. The best news for bargain hunters is that many tourist attractions in Edinburgh and Glasgow are free. Most remain open year-round, which is not always the case outside these cities.

Spring offers the countryside at its greenest, fall brings on steely skies, and summer's warmth gives rise to the music and theater festivals. But winter offers savings across the board and a chance to see Scots going about their everyday lives largely unhindered by tourist invasions.

Holidays

The following holidays are celebrated in Scotland, although individual cities and regions will have their public holidays, too: New Year's Day (Jan 1-2), Good Friday and Easter Monday, May Day (first Mon in May), spring bank holiday (last Mon in May), summer bank holiday (last Mon in Aug), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Many Scottish hotels, museums, restaurants, and sightseeing attractions have wheelchair ramps and toilets for people with disabilities. Recent changes in Scottish law have also put the onus on all new premises to have wheelchair accessibility. At historical sites, however, and in older buildings, access can be limited. Not all public transport is accessible for travelers with disabilities.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com), Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com), and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com). Avis Rent a Car has an "Avis Access" program that offers such services as a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (tel. 888/879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; and accessible bus service.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

The community website iCan (www.icanonline.net/channels/travel) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), and Open World magazine, published by SATH.

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Centre

Cathedral (Townhead) -- This is where St. Mungo apparently settled in A.D. 543 and built his little church in what's now the northeastern corner of the city center. Glasgow Cathedral was once surrounded by a variety of prebendal manses (residences), and the so-called Bishop's Castle stood between the Cathedral's west facade and the Provand's Lordship, which still exists largely in its original form. East of the Cathedral is one of Britain's largest Victorian cemeteries, Glasgow's Central Necropolis.

Merchant City -- The city's first New Town development - today southeast of the city's core - Merchant City extends from the boulevard called the Trongate and Argyle Street in the south to George Street in the north. As the medieval lanes and alleys off High Street were regarded as festering sores, the affluent moved to develop areas to the west. Merchant's warehouses largely replaced the houses, and everyone was shifted out. Ironically, now the district has become one of the few inner-city areas of Glasgow where people reside in any density.

Gallowgate -- The Gallowgate, the principal street running east from the Trongate and Glasgow Cross, and its surrounding district is best known for the Barras weekend flea markets; Barrowland, a one-time ballroom that now is a popular live-music venue for rock groups; and Glasgow Green public park. The street was once one where prosperous city businessmen strolled. The Saracen's Head Inn stood here and received such distinguished guests as Dr. Samuel Johnson and James Boswell in 1774 after the duo's famous tour of the Hebrides.

Saltmarket -- While the first settlements in Glasgow were on the hill by the Cathedral, almost as early were dwellings in this area at the opposite end of High Street along the banks of the Clyde. It served as the trading post where the river could be forded. The Bridgegate (the road to the bridge) leads to Victoria Bridge - constructed in the 1850s and the oldest Clyde crossing in Glasgow.

Commercial Center -- The biggest of the central districts of Glasgow, it includes areas of 19th-century development such as Blythswood and Charing Cross (although the latter was severed by the M8 freeway). This area offers Victorian architecture at its finest, although the city once had a mind to tear it down before realizing that the buildings had international importance.

Broomielaw -- It has been said: "The Clyde made Glasgow." From the docks that once existed here, Glasgow imported tobacco, cotton, and rum, and shipped its manufactured goods around the world. Today the Broomielaw, after becoming a rather lost and neglected part of the city center, is targeted for renewal.

Garnethill -- Up the steep slopes north of Sauchiehall Street, this neighborhood is best known for the Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed Glasgow School of Art. Developed in the late 1800s, Garnethill offers good views of the city and is also home to the first proper synagogue built in Scotland. A prosperous late 19th-century suburb, Garnethill is now one of the few concentrations of residential properties in Glasgow city center.

West End

Woodlands -- Centering on Park Circus at the crown of Woodlands Hill, this neighborhood is a mix of residential tenements and retail stretches, particularly on Woodlands and Great Western roads. South of the river lies the district of Finnieston. Its most visible landmark is the old shipbuilding crane, standing like some giant dinosaur. Along the Clyde is the Scottish Exhibition Centre. West of Woodlands is Kelvingrove, with the Art Gallery and Museum and the impressive park. Glasgow allegedly has more green spaces per resident than any other European city.

Hillhead -- With the Gilmorehill campus of the University of Glasgow, Hillhead is rather dominated by academia. Its main boulevard is Byres Road, which is the Main Street of the West End.

Partick -- The railway station at Partick is one of the few in the city to translate the stop's name into Gaelic: Partaig. Indeed there is a bit of Highland pride to the neighborhood, although no particular evidence that Highland people have settled here in great masses. Partick is one of the less pretentious districts of the central West End. To the north are leafy and affluent Hyndland and Dowanhill.

Southside

Gorbals -- This neighborhood, just across the Clyde from the city center, developed a reputation for mean streets and unsanitary tenements; so, the city demolished it in the early 1960s, erecting sets of modern high-rise apartment towers, which, in turn, developed a reputation for unsavory and unpleasant conditions. Today they are gradually coming down and a New Gorbals has been developed on a more human scale, although the fabric of the place still seems torn and frayed. It is home to the Citizens Theatre, one of the most innovative and democratic in the U.K.

Govan -- Until 1912, Govan (guv-an) was an independent burgh and one of the key shipbuilding districts on the south banks of the Clyde. It was settled as early as the 10th century - another ecclesiastical focal point along with St. Kentigern's north of the river. The first shipyard, Mackie & Thomson, opened in 1840. But with the demise of shipbuilding, the fortunes of Govan fell too. Today, it is hoped that the Science Centre and other developments, such as a new Transport Museum and BBC Scotland's headquarters, will revive Govan's fortunes.

Pollokshaws -- Along with Strathbungo, Queens Park, Pollokshields, and Crosshill, these neighborhoods form the heart of the city's more modern Southside suburbs. Pollok Park and the Burrell Collection are the primary tourist attractions, and Queens Park is perhaps better and more verdant than Kelvingrove Park, even if it lacks the monuments and statues of the West End's oasis.

Tips on Accommodations

The tourist trade in Glasgow is less seasonal than in Edinburgh, with fewer visitors in general coming to Scotland's largest city. However, it has become a popular spot for business conferences while the increase in budget-airline flights from the European continent seems to have increased the overall number of visitors. So if, for example, an international association of dentists is in town, finding a room can be difficult.

Until recently, many tourism industry observers said Glasgow suffered from a shortage of hotel rooms, but new places such as the Radisson SAS have changed the equation. Whenever you're coming, it's recommended that you reserve a room in advance. Some rates are predictably high, but many business-oriented hotels offer bargains on weekends, and the number of budget options is increasing.

The Glasgow and Clyde Valley tourism office (www.visitscotland.com) offers an Information & Booking Hot Line (tel. 0845/225-5121 from within the U.K., or 01506/832-121 from outside the U.K.). Lines are open (local time) Monday to Friday from 8am to 8pm, Saturday from 9am to 5:50pm, and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. The fax number is 01506/832-222. The fee for this booking service is £4.

Tourist Board Rankings

VisitScotland ranks the lodgings at hundreds of hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs, and self-catering apartments. While helpful, these stars are largely based upon available amenities, such as 24-hour room service, ironing boards, or spas, which may not be relevant for each and every traveler. Also, not all hotels and guesthouses are part of the scheme, which costs them money to join, although they may be no less attractive.

House-Swapping

House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get an authentic and personal view of the area, the opposite of the escapist retreat that many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with over 11,000 listings worldwide ($75 for an annual membership). HomeExchange.org (6,000 listings) and InterVac.com (over 10,000 listings) are also reliable. Many travelers find great housing swaps on Craigslist (www.craigslist.org), too, though the offerings cannot be vetted or vouched for. Swap at your own risk.

Money

Pounds & Pence

Britain's decimal monetary system is based on the pound sterling (£), which is made up of 100 pence (written as "p"). Scotland issues its own currency, but English and Scottish money are interchangeable (although using Scottish notes in England can be problematic). There are £1 and £2 coins, as well as coins of 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p. Banknotes come in denominations of £5, £10, £20, and £50. Unlike in England, Scots still use £1 notes, as well.

After the financial turmoil of 2008-09, Britain's bailout of the country's largest banks has meant the currency is under threat (as is the euro), while the U.S. dollar has been more stable. As rates fluctuate, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

For visitors from North America, prices in Scotland will make it seem like an expensive destination, on par with visiting major U.S. cities, for example, rather than Central European countries. That is particularly true with hotels, dining out, and drinking in pubs. In general, goods and services are priced in the same amount as they would be in U.S. dollars, but because of the exchange rate this means they really cost nearly one-third to one-half more. Exceptions to this general rule are theater and cinema tickets, which are about the same and sometimes cheaper given the exchange rate.

In Edinburgh and Glasgow, as well as in most towns around these cities, there are as many ATMs (or cash points) as you would find in any major city.

Regarding the British Pound & the Euro -- Tourists from other parts of Britain don't need to be told, but for those arriving from overseas: Europe's primary currency, the euro, is not officially used in Scotland. Great Britain's currency is the pound sterling. However, some euro-friendly businesses in central Edinburgh and Glasgow will accept euro coins and notes.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from a cash machine or cash point. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now add a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Credit cards universally accepted are MasterCard and Visa, with American Express allowed less frequently. In the past few years, Scotland has imposed a "Chip and Pin" system, which means that all credit cards issued in Scotland have a computer chip embedded in them and users must know their PIN. In effect, the PIN has replaced the signature on credit card purchases. Many businesses can override the "Chip and Pin" requirement and revert to the once common "swipe" of credit cards - although it often depends on staff's knowledge of the equipment that the business uses.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are becoming something of an anachronism. These days, traveler's checks are less necessary because 24-hour ATMs allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are most commonly offered in denominations of £50, £100, and £200. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders - this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) - AAA members can obtain Visa checks at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

What Things Cost in Edinburgh & Glasgow (in £)

Taxi from the airport 15-20

Double room, moderate 120

Double room, inexpensive 60

Three-course dinner for one, without wine, moderate 20-30

Bottle of Imperial beer (in a bar) 3

Bottle of Coca-Cola (in a bar) 2

Cup of coffee 1.50

1 liter of unleaded gas (petrol) 1.25

Admission to most museums free

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Bars, clubs, and hotels catering exclusively to gay and lesbian travelers do exist in Edinburgh and Glasgow. For advice and information on local events, call the Lothian Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 0131/556-4049) or the Strathclyde Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (tel. 0141/847-0447). Scotland allows civil partnerships, but gay discrimination does occasionally occur.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Among them are Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com), Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com), and Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com).

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Frommer's Gay & Lesbian Europe (www.frommers.com), an excellent travel resource to the top European cities and resorts; Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gm?nder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide), and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Calendar of Events

January

Celtic Connections, Glasgow. This celebration of folk and traditional music is becoming one of the largest of its kind in the world, drawing musicians from throughout Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, as well as further afield -- such as the Basque country and North America. Call tel. 0141/353-8000. Two weeks toward the end of January.

Burns Night. Naturally, during the celebrations to honor Robert Burns, there's much toasting with whisky and eating of haggis, the arrival of which is announced by a bagpipe. January 25.

February

New Territories, Glasgow. An international festival of performance arts, especially contemporary dance and theater. Early February to mid-March.

March

Glasgow Comedy Festival. Inaugurated in 2003, this festival brings a diverse range of funny men and women to stages around the city. Call tel. 0141/552-2070. Mid-March.

April

Glasgow Art Fair. Galleries from across the U.K. set up stalls in big tents on George Square. First weekend in April.

Glasgow International. A fortnight-long celebration of contemporary visual art at a host of local galleries. Last 2 weeks of April.

Triptych. As the name implies, this is a contemporary and avant-garde music festival that takes place in three cities: Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen. Last weekend in April.

Beltane Fire Festival, Edinburgh. This one celebrates paganism and the alleged arrival of summer on Calton Hill with primal drums and dancing. A bit of nudity is almost guaranteed. April 30.

May

Burns an' A' That, Ayr, south of Glasgow. A celebration of the life of Robert Burns with contemporary artists and performers -- mainly musicians. For details, call tel.0129/229-0300. Late May.

June

Pride. Scotland's annual gay celebration alternates between Edinburgh and Glasgow. You'll see a quirky, boisterous parade through the heart of Glasgow or along Princes Street in Edinburgh. Some time in June.

West End Festival, Glasgow. The city's most vibrant neighborhoods throw a party that includes live music, a street parade, and other events. Throughout most of June.

Glasgow International Jazz Festival. Jazz musicians from all over the world come together to perform at various venues around the city. End of June.

July

Glasgow River Festival. A 2-day event with exhibitions, sailings, and other festivities on the River Clyde. Mid-July.

August

Piping Live! Glasgow. Bagpipe players and bagpipe bands from around the world gather in the city for a week-long festival that culminates with the World Pipe Band Championships - an orgy of bagpiping, as up to 1,000 kilted participants strut their stuff. Call tel. 0141/241-4400. Mid-August.

September

Doors Open Day, Edinburgh and Glasgow. One weekend in the month, the public is given unique access to landmark buildings that are normally off limits.

October

Glasgay! Glasgow. One of the U.K.'s largest festivals of gay, lesbian, and transgender culture, with club nights, music, and performance art. Mid-October-mid-November.

November

Glasgow on Ice. An outdoor ice-skating rink is set up in George Square, along with carnival rides and gift booths. Late November to Christmas Eve.

December

Hogmanay, Edinburgh and Glasgow. New Year's Eve - Hogmanay - is traditionally bigger for the Scots than Christmas. Events in the capital include a torchlight procession, a fire festival along Princes Street, a carnival, and a street theater spectacular. Both cities stage outdoor concerts on Hogmanay. The celebration in Edinburgh begins in the last week of December and continues past New Year's Day.