The more-upscale bars and nightclubs in town are located west of the central plaza, while the more down-at-heel local joints can be found on the lakeshore close to the Complejo TurĂ­stico. Here, there is a strip of bars and nightclubs, the best of which are Pantera (no phone) and Cesars (tel. 505/2552-7241). Be warned, however, wandering this part of town at night is for the young, adventurous, and even foolish. If you do fancy a night on the tiles by the lake, dress down and make sure you get a taxi back, as the walk into the city is through a notoriously crime-ridden spot.

O'Shea?s (tel. 505/8454 1140) is a small Irish bar located on the pedestrian street La Calzada and is alive with late night revelers enjoying a hearty menu of fish and chips, baked potatoes and chicken curry. The owner is a Dubliner called Tom who runs the long, narrow bar with efficient ease. The pub quiz on Wednesday is very popular. Kelly?s Bar (La Sirena and El Caimito; tel. 505/8825-1078) is another popular bar, sometimes heaving with beer-soaked gringos and locals at three in the afternoon. It's the type of place where the TV sits on beer crates and you have to shout to be heard, but it is certainly a happening spot with live music on weekends.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.