Built in 1922, Phantom Ranch, the only lodge at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, has a classic ranch atmosphere. Accommodations are in rustic stone-walled cabins or 10-bed gender-segregated dormitories. Evaporative coolers keep both the cabins and the dorms cool in summer. Make reservations as early as possible, and don’t forget to reconfirm. An on-line lottery offers the hope that you can skip ahead of the line, but as with all lotteries the odds are—well, certainly not with us. Family-style meals must be reserved in advance. The dinner menu consists of beef-and-vegetable stew ($29) and steak ($48); breakfasts ($24) are hearty, and sack lunches ($21) are available as well. Between meals, the dining hall becomes a canteen selling snacks, drinks, gifts, and necessities. After dinner, it serves as a beer hall. There’s a public phone here, and mule-back duffel transfer ($64) between Grand Canyon Village and Phantom Ranch can be arranged.