Planning a trip to Grand Teton National Park

Because the magnificent mountains of the Teton Range stand so tall, with the park curling snugly at their feet, visitors sometimes fail to appreciate the surrounding environment of rivers and high valley floor. The Tetons are a young range of old pre-Cambrian granite, abrupt and sharp-edged as they knife up from the Snake River valley along a 40-mile-long fault sculpted over the course of the last 13 million years, with help from geological upheaval, retreating glaciers, and erosion. The result is a masterpiece. Many visitors regard Grand Teton National Park -- with its shimmering lakes, thickly carpeted forests, and towering peaks blanketed with snow throughout most of the year -- as more dramatically and immediately scenic than its northern neighbor.

It's also a very accessible park. You can appreciate its breathtaking beauty on a quick drive-by, or take to the trails and waterways in search of backcountry lakes and waterfalls. The Tetons themselves are especially popular with mountain climbers, who scale them year-round.

There's a dynamic relationship between the Tetons and the valley below. The elk and other wildlife migrate from the high country down to the open grasslands to forage during the winter, when the snowmelt curls across the valley floor and west through a gap in the mountains, and the moraines and alluvial soils that slough off the mountains provide rich soil for the pastures below.

Visitors can float and fish the lively Snake River; visit the National Elk Refuge in the winter; hike in nearby ranges, such as the Wind River or the Gros Ventre; or play cowboy at one of the dude and guest ranches that dot the valley of Jackson Hole. Skiers and snowboarders have a blast on the slopes here, as well as at Grand Targhee on the other side of Teton Pass. And the chic town of Jackson, with its antler-arched square and its busy shops, offers everything from fly-fishing shops to classy art galleries to noisy two-step cowboy bars.

It's no one's idea of a fun vacation to end up inhaling exhaust behind a long line of cars waiting for a break in construction at Yellowstone's east entrance, or wearing a T-shirt in a Montana snowstorm. Few things can do more to ruin a much-anticipated vacation than poor planning. So look over some of the crucial information before you hit the road -- it might make the difference between a trip you'll never forget and one you'd rather not remember.

Making the Most of Your Trip

Yellowstone and Grand Teton are more than photo ops and zoos where the animals roam free. They aren't museums, either, where magnificent scenery is merely on display. Both parks, unlike a picture hanging lifelessly on the wall of a museum, are works in progress; they are living, breathing wilderness areas. Plant your feet in a comfortable pair of walking or hiking shoes, find a trail head, and set off into the woods with a sack lunch and a big bottle of water. Better yet, if you can afford the time, plan an excursion around Shoshone Lake or to the south end of Yellowstone Lake by boat to areas few visitors ever see. There are isolated spots in Grand Teton, too -- even on the far shore of popular Jenny Lake -- where, with a little hiking, you'll be rewarded by a pristine, forested glade with nothing to distract you but wild moose and an awe-inspiring mountaintop.

If you're more adventurous, take a white-water trip down Snake River Canyon, or let a guide take you up to Grand Teton's summit. In Yellowstone, sleep under the stars and listen to the wolves howl at Slough Creek Campground; or backpack for a week on the Thorofare Trail.

You'll never plumb the absolute depths of these parks -- no one ever will. You could spend your whole life trying, though, and have a wonderful and illuminating time doing it.

Although Grand Teton National Park is much smaller than Yellowstone, there is more to it than just its peaks, a dozen of which climb to elevations greater than 12,000 feet. The park's manageable length -- 54 miles from north to south -- allows visitors to get a good look at the highlights in a day or two. But you'd also be missing a great deal: the beautiful views from its trails, an exciting float on the Snake River, and the watersports paradise that is Jackson Lake.

Whether your trip is half a day or 2 weeks, the park's proximity to the town of Jackson, Wyoming, allows for an interesting trip that combines the outdoors with the urbane. You can descend Grand Teton and be living it up at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar or dining in a fine restaurant that evening. The next day, you can return to the peace of the park without much effort at all.

Packing

Nothing will ruin a trip to the parks faster than sore or wet feet. Bring comfortable walking shoes, even if you plan to keep walking to a minimum. Bring shoes that are broken in, and if you plan to do some serious hiking, get sturdy boots that support your ankles and wick away water. Early in the season, trails might be wet or muddy; late in the fall, you can get snowed on. The more popular trails are sometimes also used by horses, which can make stream crossings a mucky mess.

Wear your clothing in layers, and bring a small, empty backpack or fanny pack so that you have somewhere to put the clothes as you take those layers off and on as temperature, altitude, and your level of physical exertion change. Cotton is a no-no in the backcountry; synthetic fabrics are recommended because they dry much faster. Gloves or mittens are useful before the park heats up, or in the evening when it cools down again, even in summer.

The atmosphere is thin at higher altitudes, so protect your skin. Bring a strong sunblock, a hat with a brim, and sunglasses. I also recommend bringing insect repellent, water bottles, and a first-aid kit.

Take into account that elevations at the parks are between 5,000 and 11,000 feet; in campgrounds and on hiking trails, you'll want clothing appropriate to the temperatures -- in summer, 40°F (4°C) in the evening, 75°F (24°C) during the day.

For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Planning a Backcountry Trip

While I’ve given the particulars for both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks in their respective chapters (see chapters 3 and 5), the following tips are useful when planning a backcountry trip.

Regulations

The theme in the backcountry is “leave no trace,” and that means packing out any garbage you take in, not taking pets, and avoiding leaving scars on the landscape by staying on designated trails and reusing existing campsites. Fires are allowed only in established fire rings, and only dead and downed material may be used for firewood; fires are prohibited in some areas, but backpacking stoves are allowed throughout the parks. You must have a park permit for overnight stays in the backcountry. There’s a complete list of do’s and don’ts in the Backcountry Trip Planner, available at most visitor centers. For more information on “leave no trace” ethics, see www.lnt.org.

Backpacking for Beginners

Be sure to wear comfortable, sturdy hiking shoes that will resist water if you’re planning an early-season hike; cotton socks are not a good idea because the material holds moisture, whereas wool and synthetics, such as fleece, wick it away from your body. Your sleeping bag should be rated for the low temperatures found at high elevations; if you bring a down bag, keep it dry or suffer the consequences. A lightweight sleeping pad is a must. An internal frame backpack with good padding, a lumbar support pad, and a wide hip belt helps ensure a comfortable trip. Be sure that you’ve tried out the pack and boots—wear them around the house!—before you take it on a long trip with heavy loads, so that you’ll have time to break them in.

Personal Safety Issues

It’s best not to backpack alone, but if you must, be sure that you have told park rangers and friends where you’ll be and how long you’ll be gone. Don’t leave the parking lot without the following gear: a compass, topographical maps, a first-aid kit, bug repellent, toilet paper, a headlamp, matches, a knife, food supplies, a bear-resistant food container (required in Grand Teton) if your campsite doesn’t have a bear pole, bear spray, as well as a tent, a stove, and a sleeping bag. At this altitude, sunscreen and sunglasses with UV protection are also wise. You’ll also need water treatment pills or a good water filter, because that seemingly clear stream could be filled with parasites that are likely to cause intestinal disorders. If you don’t have either, bring water to a boil before you drink it.

Jump to:

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Heavy summer auto traffic and the annual impact of millions of human beings have raised questions about the sustainability of these national parks. But a visit to Yellowstone and Grand Teton can be a relatively green vacation. In Yellowstone, concessionaire Xanterra Parks & Resorts (tel. 307/344-7311; www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com) has implemented numerous environmental initiatives, including a recycling and composting program, sourcing food for its restaurants locally and sustainably, and taking numerous measures to reduce water and energy use. The Old Faithful Snow Lodge, the newest lodging in the park, was built in part from reclaimed wood from the sawmill that cut the timber for the Old Faithful Inn, and the new gift shop at Mammoth has all sorts of green mementoes, as well as a kiosk for visitors to determine their personal carbon footprint and other interactive exhibits. Campgrounds have recycling bins near their entrances. In Grand Teton, the Grand Teton Lodge Company (tel. 307/543-2811; www.gtlc.com) has also implemented very successful sustainability programs to lessen the human impact on the park. The company encourages hotel guests to take a “sustainable stay pledge” in return for several perks, such as a reusable water bottle and a slight discount on a room. A 2015 remodel of Jackson Lake Lodge added water- and energy-conserving fixtures and incorporated recycled materials, and GTLC cooperated with a 2016 park effort to dramatically reduce landfill waste.

But perhaps the best way to look at sustainability is to go off the grid on an overnight backpacking trip. The website of the outdoor-ethics organization Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org) provides useful tips for backpackers on how to leave a campsite in the same condition—or better—than they found it. Backpacking is a refreshing counterpoint to modern life that will give perspective on the issues of sustainability and personal energy dependence.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry.

Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages a directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Carbonfund.org (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate Network (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

The "Green" Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the association's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

For information on sutainable outdoor recreation, visit Tread Lightly! (www.treadlightly.org).

Health & Safety

Health hazards range from mild headaches to run-ins with wild animals, but the latter happens less frequently than car accidents in the parks. To be safe, you might want to keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage, and have it handy when hiking. It should include at least butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, an antibiotic ointment, pain relievers for children and for adults, alcohol pads, a pocket knife with scissors, and tweezers. Healthcare is available at clinics in both parks; hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms are located in Jackson and Cody, Wyoming, as well as in Bozeman, Montana.

Altitude Sickness -- Because most of us live at or near sea level, the most common health hazard in the parks is discomfort caused by altitude sickness. Adjusting to the parks' high elevations is a process that can take a day or more. Symptoms of alcohol sickness include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids but little caffeine or alcohol.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Wildlife are to be treated with utmost respect in both parks. Keep your distance -- at least 300 feet if possible -- from any wild animal in either park. Mosquitoes, spiders, and ticks are the most bothersome biters, aside from the occasional rattlesnake you might see around Gardiner, Montana.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Safety

The roads are the most dangerous places in Yellowstone, so be especially cautious while driving. Lightning and falls are also killers, but wildlife is the most unique peril in the parks. The most dangerous animal in either park might well be the grizzly bear, but all wildlife has the potential to injure a human. Keep a safe distance from buffalo, deer, moose, and other animals -- at least 300 feet. Most people have a healthy respect for bears and are content to view them from a distance. But because a close encounter can happen unexpectedly, you need to know what to do in this situation. First, be aware that what matters most to a bear are food and cubs. If you get between a sow and her cubs, you could be in trouble. If a bear thinks that the food in your backpack is his, you also have a problem.

Unless bears have already developed a taste for human food, though, they won't come looking for you. Make a lot of noise on the trail through bear habitat, and Ursus arctos horribilis will give you a wide berth. Don't camp anywhere near the carcass of a dead animal; grizzlies sometimes partially bury carrion and return to it. Hang your food bag high in a tree, keep your cooking area distant from your campsite, and don't keep any food or utensils in your tent -- or even clothes worn while cooking. Soaps and other perfumed items can also be attractants.

Avoid hiking at night or in the meadows of mountain areas if visibility is poor. Bears have an extremely good sense of smell but poor eyesight.

If you encounter a bear, here are some things you should and should not do:

Do not run. Anything that flees looks like prey to a bear, and it might attack. Bears can run at more than 30 mph. The bear might bluff charge, but you're best off holding your ground.
Avoid direct eye contact.
If the bear is unaware of you, stay downwind (so that it doesn't catch your scent) and detour away from it slowly.
If the bear is aware of you but has not acted aggressively, slowly back away.
Do not climb a tree. Although black bears have more suitable claws for climbing, grizzly bears can climb trees, too.
Make noise and act intimidating if the bear does not retreat.
If you're attacked, drop to the ground face down, clasp your hands over the back of your neck, tuck your knees to your chest, and play dead. Keep your backpack on -- it can help protect your body. Only as a last resort should you attempt to resist an attack and fight off a bear.
If you carry pepper spray, be sure that it's handy when you're in possible bear habitat, not buried in a backpack. If you use it, aim for the bear's face and eyes. After you use it, leave the area: Bears have been seen returning to sniff about an area where spray has been used.

Permits

Backcountry Permits

If you want to sleep in the Yellowstone or Grand Teton backcountry, you must get a permit, follow limits for length of stay and campfires, and stay in a designated area. The permit costs $3 per person per night in Yellowstone (with a maximum group fee of $15) and $25 total in Grand Teton. Alternatively, you can reserve a site by paying a $35 fee to Grand Teton or $25 to Yellowstone. At Yellowstone, reservations must be made through fax, mail, or in person; at Grand Teton, they go through the site www.recreation.gov. Even when you get reservations, you still need to pick up your permit in person upon your arrival in the park. Yellowstone begins processing reservations for the current year starting on April 1, but accepts requests from January 1 to October 31. In Grand Teton, you can reserve a permit only from the first Wednesday in January to May 15; thereafter all permits are first-come, first-served. If you’re going during the parks’ busy season, you’d be wise to make a reservation.

In Yellowstone, permits can be obtained at any ranger station (most of which are open 8am–4:30pm during the summer) and most visitor centers, no more than 2 days before embarking on a trip. To make a reservation by mail, send an application (available at www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/backcountryhiking.htm) to the Backcountry Office, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. Phone reservations are not accepted, but if you want information about the system, call 307/344-2160.

In Grand Teton, permits are issued at the Craig Thomas (Moose) and Colter Bay visitor centers and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Phone reservations are not accepted, but information is available by calling 307/739-3602.

Boating Permits

For motorized craft in Yellowstone, the cost is $20 for annual permits and $10 for 7-day permits. Fees for nonmotorized boats are $10 for annual permits and $5 for 7-day permits. Boating permits are required for all vessels. Motorized boating is restricted to designated areas. Boating is prohibited on all of Yellowstone’s rivers and streams except for the Lewis River Channel, where hand-propelled vessels are permitted. In Grand Teton, the fees are $40 for motorized boats and $10 for nonmotorized. Powerboats are permitted on Jenny and Jackson Lakes; nonmotorized boats are allowed on most park lakes and the Snake River. Sailboats, windsurfers, and jet skis are allowed only on Jackson Lake. U.S. Coast Guard–approved personal flotation devices are required for each person boating.

Fishing Permits

In Yellowstone, park permits are required for anglers ages 16 and over; the permit costs $18 for 3 days, $25 for 7 days, and $40 for the season. Children 15 and under don’t need a permit if they are fishing with an adult, but they need to pick up a free permit if they’re fishing without supervision. Permits are available at any ranger station, any visitor center, Yellowstone Park General Store, and most fishing shops in the gateways. The season usually begins on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend and continues through the first Sunday in November. Exceptions to this rule are Yellowstone Lake, its tributaries, and sections of the Yellowstone River, which have shorter seasons.

In Grand Teton, state of Wyoming fishing licenses are required for everyone ages 14 years and over. An adult nonresident license costs $14 per day and $92 for the season. Nonresident youth fees (ages 14–18) are $15 for the season. A $12.50 Conservation Stamp is also required for all licenses except the 1-day variety. Jackson Lake is closed all of October.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Both parks are becoming increasingly user-friendly for travelers with disabilities. Those who are blind or have permanent disabilities can obtain a free Interagency Access Pass, which allows lifetime access to all national parks and federal fee areas. The pass must be obtained in person and is available at any entrance point to Yellowstone or Grand Teton.

Campsites at Colter Bay, Jenny Lake, and Gros Ventre campgrounds are on relatively level terrain; Lizard Creek and Signal Mountain are hilly and less accessible.

Wheelchair-accessible dining facilities are located at Flagg Ranch, Leeks Marina, Jackson Lake Lodge, and Jenny Lake Lodge.

Visitor centers at Moose, Colter Bay, Jenny Lake, and Flagg Ranch provide interpretive programs, displays, and visitor information in several forms, including visual, audible, and tactile. Large-print scripts, Braille brochures, and narrative audiotapes are available at Moose and Colter Bay.

Wheelchair-accessible parking spaces are located close to all visitor center entrances; curb cuts are provided, as are accessible restroom facilities.

More information is available from Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Drawer 170, Moose, WY 83012 (tel. 307/739-3600; www.nps.gov/grte).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

To obtain a passport, contact a passport office in your home country:

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. Department of State website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the U.S. without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application, providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the U.S. without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa, or visit one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

Every visitor to the U.S. 21 years of age or over may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the U.S. and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat product (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products, such as bullion, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.S.

When to Go

Summer, autumn, and winter are the best times to visit the Northern Rockies. The days are sunny, the nights are clear, and the humidity is low. A popular song once romanticized “Springtime in the Rockies,” but that season lasts for about 2 days in early June. The rest of the season formally known as spring is likely to be chilly and spitting snow or rain. Trails are still clogged with snow and mud.

Typically, from mid-June on, you can hike, fish, camp, and watch wildlife—except in the higher elevations, which cling to snow well into July. If you come before July 4 or after Labor Day, you won’t have to share the view all that much. Wildflowers bloom at the lower elevations in early summer—beginning in May in the lower valleys and plains, while in the higher elevations they open in July.

Autumn is not just the time when the aspens turn gold, it’s also the time when gateway motel and restaurant rates are lower and the roads are less crowded. That allows you to pay more attention to the wildlife, which is busy fattening up for the winter.

Winter is a glorious season here, although not for everyone. It can be very cold, but the air is crystalline, the snow is powdery, and the skiing is fantastic. If you drive in the parks’ vicinity in the winter, always carry winter clothing, sleeping bags, extra food, flashlights, and other safety gear. Every local resident has a horror story about being caught unprepared in the weather.

The Climate

The region is characterized by long, cold winters and short, relatively mild summers. There is not a lot of moisture, winter or summer, and the air is dry, except for the brief wet season in March and April.

Don’t expect the kind of spring you get in lower elevations. Cold and snow can linger into April and May—blizzards can even hit the area in mid-June—although temperatures are generally warming. The average daytime readings are in the 40s or 50s (4–15 degrees C), gradually increasing into the 60s or 70s (16–26 degrees C) by early June. So, during spring, a warm jacket, rain gear, and water-resistant walking shoes could be welcome traveling companions.

The area is rarely balmy, but temperatures during the middle of the summer are typically 75 degrees to 85 degrees F (24–29 degrees C) in the lower elevations and are especially comfortable because of the lack of humidity. Remember, too, that the atmosphere is thin at this altitude, so sunscreen is a must. Nights, even during the warmest months, will be cool, with temperatures dropping into the low 40s (4–9 degrees C), so you’ll want to include a jacket in your wardrobe. Because summer thunderstorms are common, you’ll probably be glad you’ve included a waterproof shell or umbrella.

As fall approaches, you’ll want to have an additional layer of clothing because temperatures remain mild but begin to cool. The first heavy snows typically fall in the valley by November 1 (much earlier in the mountains) and continue through March or April. Aspen trees turn bright yellow; cottonwoods turn a deeper gold.

During winter months, you’ll want long underwear, heavy shirts, vests, coats, warm gloves, and thick socks. Temperatures can be anywhere from the single digits (negative teens Celsius) to the 30s (–1 to 4 degrees C) during the day, and subzero overnight temperatures are common. Ultracold air can cause lots of health problems, so drink fluids, keep an extra layer of clothing handy, and don’t overexert yourself.

For up-to-date weather information and road conditions, call 307/344-2117 (Yellowstone), 307/739-3614 (Grand Teton in summer), 307/739-3682 (Grand Teton in winter), or 511 (in-state mobile), or visit www.wyoroad.info.

Avoiding the Crowds

Between the Fourth of July and Labor Day, the Northern Rockies come to life. Flowers bloom, fish jump, bison calves frolic—and tourists converge. The park roads are crowded with trailers, with the well-known spots jammed with a significant portion of the millions who make their treks to Montana and Wyoming every year. Your best bet: Travel before June 15, if possible, or after mid-September. Labor Day used to represent a reliable slowdown in visitation, but in recent years, people have continued filling the park well into the fall season. If you can’t arrange an off-season visit, then go to the major attractions at off-peak hours when others are eating or sleeping. Or, as I suggest over and over, abandon the pavement for the hiking trails—a foolproof way to shake the hordes.

Whenever you come, give these parks as much time as you can; you’ll experience more at an unhurried pace.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King Jr. Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas Day). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2020). The parks are always open on holidays, but visitor centers are often closed.

Getting There

By Plane

American Airlines, Delta, SkyWest, and United all have flights to and from Jackson Hole Airport (307/733-7682; www.jacksonholeairport.com), which is right in Grand Teton National Park in Jackson, Wyoming, and only 56 miles of scenic driving from the southern entrance of Yellowstone.

Airfares to the small airports surrounding the parks can be pricey, so if you like to drive, consider flying into Salt Lake City, Utah, and driving about 300 miles to Grand Teton National Park, a route that has some nice scenic stretches. Even Denver, a drive of roughly 500 miles, is an alternative, although the route is not nearly as scenic.

By Car

Grand Teton’s gateways are from the north, south, and east. Drivers naturally enter from whichever side they approach the parks. From the west, U.S. 20 or U.S. 191 takes you to West Yellowstone, Montana. From the south, U.S. 191 runs through Jackson and the length of Jackson Hole before entering Yellowstone. From the east, U.S. 20 bisects Cody, Wyoming, and continues west 53 miles to the east entrance of Yellowstone. The northeast entrance of Yellowstone is accessible from U.S. 212 via Cooke City, Montana. Finally, the north entrance is just outside Gardiner, Montana, on U.S. 89.

Most of the major auto-rental agencies have operations in the gateway city airports. Visit each airport’s rental car page for details, national reservation phone numbers, and local rental desk phone numbers. Also consider using a third-party booker such as Hotwire (www.hotwire.com) or Kayak (www.kayak.com) for substantial savings on your rates. You’ll find the most car rental companies at Billings Logan International (www.flybillings.com/815/car-rentals) and Bozeman Yellowstone International (www.bozemanairport.com), with eight each. Jackson Hole Airport and the town of Jackson together host eight options, with three at the airport itself (www.jacksonholeairport.com/airport-guide). Five outfits operate out of Cody’s Yellowstone Regional Airport (www.flyyra.com/parking-transportation), and three are based in West Yellowstone’s Yellowstone Airport (www.yellowstoneairport.org/airport-info.shtml).

One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Gasoline is sold in the gateway cities, but at only a select few locations in the park; fill up well before empty. International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

By Bus or Shuttle

Public transportation options are fairly limited around the park, but there are a few companies that will haul you from selected airports to gateway towns. For long-distance bus travel, check Greyhound (800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) schedules for Bozeman, Jackson, and Idaho Falls. From the Bozeman airport, you can catch a ride to West Yellowstone with Karst Stage (406/556-3500; www.karststage.com) for $95 one-way (prices drop if you have more passengers) or Yellowstone Roadrunner (406/640-0631; www.yellowstoneroadrunner.com). The latter also serves Jackson and Idaho Falls; call for rates. And in winter, Xanterra Parks & Resorts (307/344-7311; www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com) runs a daily shuttle from Bozeman airport to Mammoth for $75 one-way (advance booking required).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While Wyoming and Montana have earned reputations as intolerant destinations in the past, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks are generally gay-friendly. However, gay culture and nightlife are very limited in Jackson and nearly nonexistent in other gateways.

Fast Facts

Area Codes: Yellowstone is almost entirely in Wyoming, with the area code 307. The park also extends slightly into Montana (area code 406) and Idaho (area code 208). Grand Teton is entirely in Wyoming, and its area code is also 307.

Customs: International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs and Border Protection on entering or leaving, which includes filing form FinCen105. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs and Border Protection (www.cbp.gov).

Disabled Travelers: Both parks are becoming increasingly user-friendly for travelers with disabilities. Those who are blind or have permanent disabilities can obtain a free Interagency Access Pass, which allows lifetime access to all national parks and federal fee areas. The pass must be obtained in person and is available at any entrance point to Yellowstone or Grand Teton.

Yellowstone: Wheelchair-accessible accommodations are available in all park lodges. For detailed information about accessible features throughout the park, visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/accessibility.htm). All campgrounds except Fishing Bridge, Pebble Creek, Slough Creek, and Tower Fall have at least one wheelchair-accessible campsite.

Wheelchair-accessible restrooms with sinks and flush toilets are located at all developed areas except West Thumb. Accessible vault toilets are located at West Thumb and Norris, all campgrounds, and in most scenic areas and picnic areas.

Many of Yellowstone’s roadside attractions, including the south rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, West Thumb Geyser Basin, much of the Norris and Upper Geyser basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, and parts of the Mud Volcano and Fountain Paint Pot areas, are negotiable by wheelchair. Visitor centers at Old Faithful, Grant Village, Mammoth, and Canyon are wheelchair accessible, as are the Norris Museum and the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center.

Wheelchair-accessible parking is available at all major developed areas and some overlooks and picnic areas.

Grand Teton: Campsites at Colter Bay, Jenny Lake, and Gros Ventre campgrounds are on relatively level terrain; Headwaters Lodge & Cabins at Flagg Ranch also offers accessible campsites and RV sites. Lizard Creek and Signal Mountain are hilly and less accessible.

Wheelchair-accessible dining facilities are located at Flagg Ranch, Leeks Marina, Colter Bay, Signal Mountain Lodge, Jackson Lake Lodge, and Jenny Lake Lodge.

Visitor centers at Moose, Colter Bay, Jenny Lake, and Flagg Ranch provide interpretive programs, displays, and visitor information in several forms, including visual, audible, and tactile.

Wheelchair-accessible parking spaces are located close to all visitor center entrances; curb cuts are provided, as are accessible restroom facilities.

More information is available from Grand Teton National Park at www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/accessibility.htm.

Doctors: In Yellowstone, the clinic at Mammoth Hot Springs (307/344-7965) is open year-round except some holidays. Lake Clinic (307/242-7241) and Old Faithful Clinic (307/545-7325) are open during the summer. In Grand Teton, the Grand Teton Medical Clinic at Jackson Lake Lodge (307/543-2514) is open daily in the summer from 9am to 5pm. The next-closest clinic is in Jackson, Wyoming: St. John’s Medical Center, 625 E. Broadway (307/733-3636), has a 24-hour emergency room.

Drinking Laws: The legal age for the purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated. Alcohol is widely available at stores in both parks and in the gateway cities. Bars in both Montana and Wyoming close at 2am.

Electricity: Like Canada, the U.S. uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the U.S., so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates: All embassies are in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in Chicago, Honolulu, Houston, New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 ( 202/682-1740; www.can-am.gc.ca/washington). Canadian consulates are in 12 cities throughout the U.S., including Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/462-3939; www.dfa.ie). Irish consulates are in Austin (Texas), Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, New York, and San Francisco,

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/328-4800; www.mfat.govt.nz). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Honolulu, and New York.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/588-6500; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-washington). British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Miami, New York, San Francisco, and Los Angeles.

Emergencies: Call 911. In Yellowstone, you can also call the park’s main information number (307/344-7381), which is staffed 24 hours a day. In Grand Teton, dial 307/739-3300.

Family Travel: One useful guide to traveling with the kids is An Outdoor Family Guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks (Mountaineers Books, 2006). Older children can learn about nature by enrolling in the Junior Ranger Program at both Yellowstone and Grand Teton.

Health: Health hazards range from mild headaches to run-ins with wild animals, but the latter happens less frequently than car accidents in the parks. To be safe, you might want to keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage, and have it handy when hiking. It should include at least butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, an antibiotic ointment, pain relievers for children and for adults, alcohol pads, a pocket knife with scissors, and tweezers. Healthcare is available at clinics in both parks; hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms are located in Jackson and Cody, Wyoming, as well as in Bozeman, Montana.

Altitude Sickness: The most common health hazard in the parks is discomfort caused by altitude sickness. Adjusting to the parks’ high elevations is a process that can take a day or more. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids but little caffeine or alcohol.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns: Wildlife are to be treated with utmost respect in both parks. Keep your distance—at least 300 feet if possible—from any wild animal in either park. Mosquitoes, spiders, and ticks are the most bothersome biters, aside from the occasional rattlesnake you might see around Gardiner, Montana.

Internet & Wi-Fi: When it comes to modern telecommunications, Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks have extremely limited infrastructure: Lack of connectivity is the rule, not the exception. These are not destinations for those who need to check e-mail every few minutes—or even every day. Some Yellowstone lodges have begun to add Wi-Fi for a fee in recent years, sometimes only in the lobby or other public spaces: They are Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, Lake Lodge Cabins, Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Grant Village, and Old Faithful Snow Lodge. In Grand Teton National Park, Wi-Fi is available in public areas at Colter Bay Village, Jackson Lake Lodge, Signal Mountain Lodge, and Jenny Lake Lodge. Internet access is widely available in all of the gateways, but can be notably slow in Gardiner and West Yellowstone.

Legal Aid: While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

LGBT Travelers: While Wyoming and Montana have earned reputations as intolerant destinations in the past, Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks are generally gay-friendly. However, gay culture and nightlife are very limited in Jackson and nearly nonexistent in other gateways.

Mail: At press time, domestic postage rates were 34 cents for a postcard and 49 cents for a letter. For international mail, letters and postcards start at $1.15. For more information visit www.usps.com.

If you aren’t sure what your address will be in the U.S., mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (a driver’s license or passport, for example). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include a zip code when mailing items in the U.S. If you don’t know the zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Medical Requirements: Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.S. See “Health,” above.

Mobile Phones: The parks have several cell towers in developed areas. Cell service is widely available on the floor of Jackson Hole throughout Grand Teton National Park; in Yellowstone, it is available in Canyon, Grant, Lake, Mammoth Hot Springs, and Old Faithful villages but largely unavailable on the roads and in wilderness areas. Cell service is available in all of the gateway cities. International travelers may want to buy a pay-as-you-go phone for the trip.

Money & Costs: See the table below for currency conversions. These conversions were accurate at press time. Rates fluctuate, however, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The Value of US Dollars VS Other Popular Currencies

US $1 A $1.33 C $1.33 Euro 0.94 NZ $1.40 UK 0.81

What Thing Cost in Yellowstone & Grand Teton

Admission to both parks for a week $50.00

Double motel room in the parks, peak season $93.00–438.00

Cabin (private) $90.00–310.00

Dinner main course in a full-service hotel restaurant $10.00–46.00

Horseback riding $43.00–80.00

Basic lake cruise $19.00–32.00

Bus sightseeing tour (Yellowstone) $75.00–114.00

Round-trip snowcoach to Old Faithful $234

1 gallon/1 liter of regular gas $2.50/1.52

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Newspapers & Magazines: The primary papers in the region are the Billings Gazette, Bozeman Daily Chronicle, and the Cody Enterprise. In Yellowstone, the best source of park information is the free Yellowstone Summer (or whichever season you’re visiting), the free park newspaper available at all entrances and visitor centers. In Grand Teton, the free Grand Teton Guide is full of park information. In Jackson, the newspaper is the Jackson Hole News & Guide.

Packing: Nothing will ruin a trip to the parks faster than sore or wet feet. Bring comfortable walking shoes, even if you plan to keep walking to a minimum. Bring shoes that are broken in, and if you plan to do some serious hiking, get sturdy boots that support your ankles and protect against water. Early in the season, trails might be wet or muddy; late in the fall, you can get snowed on. The more popular trails are sometimes also used by horses, which can make stream crossings a mucky mess.

Take into account that elevations at the parks are between 5,000 and 11,000 feet; in campgrounds and on hiking trails, you’ll want clothing appropriate to the temperatures—in summer, 40F (4C) in the evening, 75F (24C) during the day.

Passports: Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative. Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Police: Call 911.

Safety: The roads are the most dangerous places in Yellowstone, so be especially cautious while driving. Lightning and falls are also killers, but wildlife is the most unique peril in the parks. The most dangerous animal in either park might well be the grizzly bear, but all wildlife has the potential to injure a human. Keep a safe distance from buffalo, deer, moose, and other animals—at least 300 feet. Most people have a healthy respect for bears and are content to view them from a distance. But because a close encounter can happen unexpectedly, you need to know what to do in this situation. First, be aware that what matters most to a bear are food and cubs. If you get between a sow and her cubs, you could be in trouble. If a bear thinks that the food in your backpack is his, you also have a problem.

Unless bears have already developed a taste for human food, though, they won’t come looking for you. Make a lot of noise on the trail through bear habitat, and Ursus arctos horribilis will give you a wide berth. Don’t camp anywhere near the carcass of a dead animal; grizzlies sometimes partially bury carrion and return to it. Hang your food bag from your campsite’s pole or use a bear-resistant food container, keep your cooking area distant from your campsite, and don’t keep any food or utensils in your tent—or even clothes worn while cooking. Soaps and other perfumed items can also be attractants.

Avoid hiking at night or in the meadows of mountain areas if visibility is poor. Bears have an extremely good sense of smell but poor eyesight. Always carry bear spray.

If you encounter a bear, here are some things you should and should not do:

Do not run. Anything that flees looks like prey to a bear, and it might attack. Bears can run at more than 30 mph. The bear might bluff charge, but you’re best off holding your ground.
Avoid direct eye contact.
If the bear is unaware of you, stay downwind (so that it doesn’t catch your scent) and detour away from it slowly.
If the bear is aware of you but has not acted aggressively, slowly back away.
Do not climb a tree. Although black bears have more suitable claws for climbing, grizzly bears can climb trees, too.
Make noise and act intimidating if the bear does not retreat.
If you’re attacked, drop to the ground face down, clasp your hands over the back of your neck, tuck your knees to your chest, and play dead. Keep your backpack on—it can help protect your body. Only as a last resort should you attempt to resist an attack and fight off a bear.
Always carry bear spray, be sure that it’s handy when you’re in possible bear habitat, not buried in a backpack. If you use it, aim for the bear’s face and eyes. After you use it, leave the area: Bears have been seen returning to sniff about an area where spray has been used.

Smoking: Montana has a statewide smoking ban; Wyoming does not, but smoking is banned in most public places in the park and Jackson Hole.

Taxes: Lodging and sales tax in Yellowstone and its gateways varies from 4% to 8%. Tax is 6% in Grand Teton Park and 6% to 8% in Jackson Hole. The U.S. has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant bills and airline tickets. These taxes do not appear on price tags.

Telephones: Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25 cents or 35 cents. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the U.S. and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. Calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive, with charges of 95 cents to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (“Information”), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Time: Both parks are in the Mountain Standard Time zone. Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping: In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets: You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. Both Yellowstone and Grand Teton have vault (flushless) toilets at numerous pullouts along the roads, and there are toilets at some trail heads, though not all.

Visas: The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the U.S. without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Chile, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult https://travel.state.gov.) Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application, providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: As of April 1, 2016, you must have an enhanced e-passport to qualify for the VWP. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. Canadian citizens may enter the U.S. without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa.

Visitor Information: The primary entries to Yellowstone and Grand Teton are through Montana and Wyoming, so if you want information about the surrounding areas, contact these states’ travel services: Montana Office of Tourism (800/847-4868; www.visitmt.com); and Wyoming Office of Tourism, 5611 High Plains Rd., Cheyenne, WY 82007 (800/225-5996 or 307/777-7777; www.travelwyoming.com).

To receive maps and information before your arrival, contact Yellowstone directly, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 ([307/344-7381; www.nps.gov/yell), and Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Drawer 170, Moose, WY 83012 (307/739-3300; www.nps.gov/grte). For information about educational programs at the Yellowstone Forever Institute and other resources, contact Yellowstone Forever, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 ([406/848-2400; www.yellowstone.org). The Grand Teton Association is a not-for-profit organization that provides information about the park through retail book sales at park visitor centers; you can also buy books about the park from the organization by mail. Contact the association at P.O. Box 170, Moose, WY 83012 (307/739-3406; www.grandtetonpark.org).

National forests and other public lands surround the parks. For information about national forests and wilderness areas in Montana, contact the U.S. Forest Service Northern Region, 26 Fort Missoula Rd., Missoula, MT 59804 (406/329-3511; www.fs.usda.gov/r1). For information on Wyoming’s national forests, turn to the U.S. Forest Service Intermountain Region, 324 25th St., Ogden, UT 84401 (801/625-5306; www.fs.usda.gov/r4), and the U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Region, 740 Simms St., Golden, CO 80401 (📞 303/275-5350; www.fs.usda.gov/r2).

The federal Bureau of Land Management also manages millions of acres of recreational lands and can be reached at its Wyoming state office, 5353 Yellowstone Rd. (P.O. Box 1828), Cheyenne, WY 82009 (307/775-6256; www.blm.gov/wy); or its Montana state office, 5001 Southgate Dr., Billings, MT 59101 (406/896-5000; www.blm.gov/montana-dakotas).

Water: Two waterborne hazards are Giardia and Campylobacter, with symptoms that wreak havoc on the human digestive system. If you pick up these pesky bugs, they might accompany you on your trip home. Untreated water from the parks’ lakes and streams should be boiled before consumption, pumped through a fine-mesh water filter specifically designed to remove bacteria, or treated with chemical water purifiers.

Tips for Families

The best general advice I've discovered is in Lisa Gollin Evans's book An Outdoor Family Guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks (Mountaineers Books, 2006). Older children can learn about nature by enrolling in the Yellowstone Junior Ranger Program. The Young Naturalist program at Grand Teton provides children with a similar opportunity to explore the natural world of the park and costs $1.

The Young Naturalist program at Grand Teton provides children with a similar opportunity to explore the natural world of the park, following instructions from an activity brochure. It costs $1 to participate; when you complete the course, you're awarded a patch.

Children (ages 8-14) visiting the park are encouraged to explore and experience Grand Teton as members of the Junior Ranger program. To participate, pick up a copy of the Junior Ranger activity brochure at any visitor center, and then complete the projects outlined in the booklet during your stay. When you present a completed project (and $1) to a ranger at the Moose, Jenny Lake, or Colter Bay visitor centers, you'll be awarded a Young Naturalist patch.

Two trails within Grand Teton are especially kid-friendly. At 7 miles round-trip, the entire Jenny Lake Loop Trail is a bit long for kids, but take the boat shuttle across Jenny Lake to the Inspiration Point Trail portion, which is less than a mile long. The Christian Pond Trail, a level, 1-mile round-trip from the corrals at Jackson Lake Lodge, is also a nice diversion, offering great views and a chance to see myriad waterfowl.

Visitor Information

Access/Entry Points

Grand Teton National Park runs along a north-south axis, bordered on the west by the Teton Range. Teton Park Road skirts along the lakes at the mountains’ base. From the north, you can enter the park from Yellowstone National Park, which is linked to Grand Teton by an 8-mile stretch of highway (U.S. 89/191/287) running through the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway, along which you might see some bare and blackened trees from the 1988 and 2016 fires. If you enter this way, you will already have paid your entrance fee to both parks, but you can stop at the park information center at Flagg Ranch, just outside Yellowstone, to get Grand Teton information. From mid-December to mid-March, Yellowstone’s south entrance is open only to snowmobiles and snowcoaches.

You can also approach the park from the east, via U.S. 26/287. This route comes from Dubois, 55 miles east on the other side of the Absaroka and Wind River ranges, and crosses Togwotee Pass, where you’ll get your first views of the Tetons towering over the valley. Travelers who come this way can continue south on U.S. 26/89/191 to Jackson without paying an entrance fee, and enjoy spectacular mountain and Snake River views.

Finally, you can enter Grand Teton from Jackson in the south, driving about 12 miles north on U.S. 26/89/191 to the Moose Junction turnoff and the park’s south entrance. Here you’ll find the park headquarters and the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center, plus a small developed area that includes restaurants and shops.

Visitor Centers & Information

There are three visitor centers in Grand Teton National Park, plus a couple of smaller information centers. The Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center (tel. 307/739-3399) is a half-mile west of Moose Junction and jam-packed with info and exhibits about the park’s natural and human history. Here you’ll find displays on glaciation and park ecosystems, old wagons, Native American artifacts, and a wall on the history of mountaineering in the area. In summer, it’s open 8am to 7pm; hours change to 8am to 5pm in May and mid-September to late October and 9am to 5pm in March and April. Colter Bay Visitor Center (tel. 307/739-3594), the northernmost option, features an Indian Arts Gallery and a big porch with Jackson Lake views; it’s open 8am to 7pm in summer and 8am to 5pm in May, September, and the first half of October. The Jenny Lake Visitor Center, at the southern end of Jenny Lake, is getting an upgrade during summer 2017. Rangers will staff a temporary visitor center in the area until the new center opens in 2018. It’s open 8am to 7pm in summer and 8am to 5pm in late May/early June and September.

On the Moose-Wilson Road, you’ll find the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center (tel. 307/739-3654), open 9am to 5pm daily in summer. Finally, there is an information station at the Flagg Ranch complex (tel. 307/543-2372), which is located approximately 5 miles north of the park’s northern boundary, open daily 9am to 4pm from early June through early September, although it may be closed for lunch.

Fees

There are no park gates on U.S. 26/89/191, so you can get a free ride through the park on that route; to get off the highway and explore, you’ll pay $30 per automobile for a 7-day pass ($50 for both Yellowstone and Grand Teton). If you expect to visit the parks more than once in a year, buy an annual pass for $60. And if you visit parks and national monuments around the country, purchase an Interagency Annual Pass for $80 (good for 365 days from the date of purchase at nearly all federal preserves). Anyone ages 62 and older can get an Interagency Senior Pass for a one-time fee of $10, and people who are blind or who have a permanent disability can obtain an Interagency Access Pass, which is free. All passes are available at any entrance point to the parks. Most of the money from entrance fees goes back into the park where it was collected, so consider it a contribution worth making.

Fees for tent camping are between $24 and $37 at all six park campgrounds. For recorded information on campgrounds, call tel. 307/739-3603. For more information on camping, see “Where to Camp in Grand Teton,” in chapter 7. All tent campgrounds are first-come, first-serve.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips

One of the best ways to turn a park vacation into an unforgettable experience is to join an educational program. There are no finals in these courses; they're just a relaxed, informative way to spend time outdoors.

The Teton Science Schools, 700 Coyote Canyon Dr., Jackson, WY 83011 (tel. 307/733-1313; www.tetonscience.org), is a 30-year-old institution that offers summer and winter programs for students and adults. Classes review the ecology, geology, and wildlife of the park, and there are photography and tracking workshops as well. Classes cater to different age groups, and the emphasis is on experiential, hands-on learning. College credit is available.

The Teton Science Schools' Wildlife Expeditions (tel. 877/406-6626 or 307/733-1313) include trips in open-roof vans, on rafts, in sleighs, and by foot. These tours bring visitors closer to wildlife than they're likely to get on their own. Wildlife Expeditions offers trips ranging from a half-day sunset safari ($125) to weeklong trips through the park, usually lodging in park hotels. Adult seminars usually run about $150 to $200 per day, but more inclusive ones cost upwards of $500 per day.

Adventure Trips & Guided Tours

In addition, AdventureBus, 375 S. Main St., No. 240, Moab, UT 84532 (tel. 888/737-5263 or 909/633-7225; www.adventurebus.com), offers trips on its customized buses with an emphasis on outdoor adventures, including multisport and mountain biking tours in the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. The rate is about $1,000 per person for a weeklong trip. Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108-1025 (tel. 800/575-1540; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multiday mountain biking, hiking, and combination tours in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Six-night trips start around $2,300 per person. Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. The rate is about $2,000 per person (camping) to $3,000 per person (park lodgings) for 6 days. The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Ste. D, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0946; www.theworldoutdoors.com), offers a variety of trips, including multisport adventures that include hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and rafting in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Rates range from $1,700 to $2,700 per person for 6 days. Escape Adventures, 8221 W. Charleston St., No. 101, Las Vegas, NV 89117 (tel. 800/596-2953 or 702/596-2953; www.escapeadventures.com), offers 6-day guided road-biking tours of the parks. The rate is about $1,500 per person (camping) to $2,300 per person (park lodgings).

Money

Throughout this guide, Frommer's lists prices in the local currency. Rates fluctuate, however, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs are widely available in the gateway cities and developed areas in both parks. Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. If you are visiting from outside the U.S., check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in US$

Admission to both parks for a week 25.00

Double motel room in or around the parks, peak season 89.00-229.00

Double motel room, winter season 59.00-199.00

Cabin with bed and bathroom 79.00-299.00

Dinner main course in a full-service hotel restaurant 15.00-50.00

Horseback riding for 1 hour 40.00-70.00

1-hour lake cruise 9.00-15.00

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas 2.95/1.90

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the U.S. and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. Calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive, with charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

The parks have several cell towers in developed areas. Cell service is widely available on the floor of Jackson Hole throughout Grand Teton National Park; in Yellowstone, it is available in Canyon, Grant, Mammoth Hot Springs, and Old Faithful villages but largely unavailable on the roads and in wilderness areas. Cell service is available in all of the gateway cities. International travelers may want to buy a pay-as-you-go phone for the trip.

Internet & Wi-Fi

When it comes to modern telecommunications, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks have extremely limited infrastructure: Lack of connectivity is the rule, not the exception. These are not the best destinations for those who need to check e-mail every minute -- or even every day. The lodgings in the park typically lack Internet connections. Wi-Fi is prohibited at Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Roosevelt Lodge, Old Faithful Inn, Old Faithful Lodge, Lake Lodge, and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel; the concessionaires are permitted to offer it at other lodgings and general stores, but as of this writing, it was not available. In Grand Teton National Park, Wi-Fi is available in public areas at Jenny Lake Lodge, Jackson Lake Lodge, Signal Mountain, and Colter Bay Village. Internet access is widely available in all of the gateways, but can be notably slow in Gardiner and West Yellowstone.

Getting Around

Road Openings & Closings

Because Grand Teton has fewer roads and they're at lower elevations, openings and closings are more predictable. Teton Park Road opens to conventional vehicles and RVs around May 1. The Moose-Wilson Road opens to vehicles about the same time. Roads close to vehicles on November 1, although they never close for nonmotorized use.