Grandmother's Buttons -- Once in St. Francisville, stop by Grandmother's Buttons, at 9814 Royal St. (tel. 800/580-6941 or 225/635-4107; The owner makes jewelry from antique and vintage buttons (from Victorian brass picture buttons to 1940s Bakelite) -- one-of-a-kind, amazing creations. We've bought more earrings, brooches, and other gewgaws from here than we could ever possibly wear. Don't overlook their fascinating (really) Button Museum. They're open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5:30pm, Sun 11am to 5pm.

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