This is the second-oldest cafe in France, after the more famous Procope in Paris. Founded in 1739, the cafe has attracted such luminaries as Stendhal and Sarah Bernhardt. It is said to be the spot where Pierre Choderlos de Laclos conceived the plot for his 1784 novel “Les Liaisons Dangereuses.” The menu offers both regional and national cuisine—the ingredients always fresh and the portions always huge. We gravitate to le poisson du jour (fresh fish of the day), although the fondue Savoyarde with charcuterie is a winter delight, as is the Alpine ham. The cafe conducts concerts and poetry readings. It’s always busy so book a table early and be prepared to wait.